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Travels around Spain ~ Bilbao

We have been planning our trips away , together with various events for the next 6 months. Well you have more time in retirement and after nearly 7 years I might just have it down to a fine art. Although these days there are more doctor, dental and hospital visits to work around.

But Ian has hatched a plan. Instead of travelling direct to Malaga as we normally do we will travel via somewhere else in Spain. He has planned a number of places all meticulously researched and each with a reason to visit. There is so much to see and do in Spain and it gives us a taster for places where we may want to spend a little longer. But. Not longer than 90 days obviously. Don’t get me started on that. Just as I retired freedom of movement gets restricted. For everyone. But as my father said don’t get bogged down in discussion of sex, politics and religion. It’s a bottomless pit.

Sex, politics and religion together you’ll never get back. Not even if you shout ~ I’m a celibate get me out of here.

November is the first new style trip and guess what. There are a few photos and a bit of a blog. Ian likes to get to the airport a week before the flight so early starts are nothing new. Everything looks quiet when you are getting the 5,30am train from Peckham Rye to Gatwick. I’d normally feel like everyone’s grandfather travelling at peak travel time.

The men all have trousers that just don’t quite touch their shoes _ ankle flappers ~ beards., Beanies and headphones. I can’t quite bring myself to wear trousers that short. My mother would say ‘ what’s wrong with those trousers. Best you put some jam on your shoes and invite them down for tea’. Normally the station is a great people watching place. Not today. I’d have to either look at Ian or in the mirror and I didn’t want to start a row with either. Not this early on.

The airport was quiet too. Through security. With the usual body scan. I’m convinced they just don’t believe the body concealed under these baggy clothes is mine. That I’m hiding the cash bags from the great train robbery under my jumper. Less six pack washboard stomach. More washing machine and tumble dryer thrown in for good measure. But stopped I am as usual. Nothing to declare.

Oh. I haven’t mentioned. Bilbao if your interested. If not then best stop now because there will be pictures. A bit of a ramble. A mumble and the obligatory spelling mistake. Why Bilbao? Because Ian wants to and we can fly direct. Plus the added bounds of great food. Fabulous Guggenheim and plenty of walking. No hire cars but great public transport. Two tips. Comfortable shoes. Buy a Barik card for travel.

My first thoughts as we fly over the Baltic Sea into Bilbao? It’s green. Compared to flying into Malaga. It’s lush. I suspect because the rain is torrential. The flight into landing was wobbly. Just as well I woke up 30 mins before landing. I had only slept for most of the flight. Tip. Be prepared. Rain. Wind. Glorious sun. All within an hour.

The bus into the city was. Fast. Very fast. And all for €3. ( you can’t get a Barik until you are at a metro); And a spectacular view of the Guggenheim as the bus hurtled over the bridge Opened in 1997 ( the museum. Not the bridge) it is a stunning piece of work by the Canadian ~ American architect Frank Gehry. I didn’t realise that the building is featured in a James Bond film ~ The world is not enough. But to be fair it’s not a Bond film I remember. Or the theme tune. I’ve also read that Mariah Cary used various locations at the museum for her video Sweetheart. I’ve just had a look. Maybe I’ll just have to copy some of the poses in the video. And mime. I didn’t.

This is a view taken from the summit of Mount Artxanda. Reached by cable car which took longer to find the entrance that getting to Bilbao. I exaggerate. But once you know where it is it’s easy. But it’s worth it. Tip. Don’t walk up!

Back to The Guggenheim. Our first afternoon was spent getting our bearings. That and sheltering from hideous rain which came in from nowhere. We had walked down to the museum and as we arrived the heavens opened. Cats and dogs. But not before I got a photo of the outside and of the giant spider first seen in the turbine hall at Tate Modern. I remember it from back then but I think it’s positioning here is more spectacular. And just a little bit creepy. I don’t know if they were blowing dry ice or whether it was mist coming in. But it looked great. Well the couple ( not us) taking a wet selfie were enjoying themselves. Going back two,days later I can confirm it’s dry Ice. Also best to get a picture in the rain. It’s quieter.

We dragged ourselves back to our Airbnb to dry out ~ be very Spanish and have a siesta and then headed back out for yet another walk. The light of the day had gone and the Museum took on another appearance. I think it’s my favourite one and the photo was taken from the other side of the river. From this angle the building to me looks like a large ocean liner. Very beautiful. Elegant and majestic. And shiny.

I love the riverside walks when the lights are on and there are shadows. The walk there and back was great. And dry. The bridge we had crossed earlier in the day looked spectacular earlier but somehow the lights make it look beautiful. Maybe I’ll adorn myself with lights.

The day looks very different. But there again I suspect I look better in the dark. That’s not a request for people to agree.

The bridge I mentioned coming in from the airport runs along the side of the Guggenheim and again at night the lights make it look pretty spectacular. I hope they have energy saving lights!

The whole walk there and back at night was spectacular. Obviously the locals love the walk as well as every other person was out walking their dogs. Or maybe because the afternoon weather was so hideous.

We had been recommended to eat at the Plaza Nueva which is a short hop skip and a jump from the Airbnb. A beautiful plaza with some fabulous places to eat around it. The small bars and small places to eat are filled with locals. And a few tourists getting quizzical over the choice of pintxos. Not a commercial chain of coffee shops and pizzas to be seen. Thankfully.

I love how these city’s have the fabulous plaza. Madrid. Salamanca are two I like a lot. The Plaza; Neoclassical in style was built in 1821.

Is this what they mean by green energy! Bilbao tram runs over the greenest grass I’ve seen and it’s real. I went back and checked. The trams run around the side Guggenheim through trees and over grass and it’s a pretty cool sight. Although without my glasses on and no sign of a tram I would have walked across the grass not knowing that there were tracks.

We took the metro to get to the funicular railway and this is the carriage. Modern. Clean. Bright and looking great. This line was quiet Norman Foster was commissioned in 1997 to design stations for a new extension and they are awesome. The entrances ~ glass tunnels take you down to the stations. The curved structures are known locally as Fosteritos. The stations are airy. Light and spacious. They are a joy to,use. And whilst I know many people don’t think wearing a face mask makes the slightest bit of difference, in Spain you are obliged to wear a mask whilst on public transport. And people travelling on public transport here are all compliant. Me. I find it comforting.

I am surprised at how many Unesco World Heritage sites there are and how varied they are too. Spain has 49 sites and one is here in the Basque country ~ The Vizcaya bridge. It’s a transporter bridge and the worlds oldest, having been built in 1893. It transports both vehicles and foot passengers across the river. Bilbao was a major exporter of iron and the structure was the first of its kind to use a combination of iron and new steel,cables. The carriage is called a gondola ~ no idea why. ~ no serenading from me in a stripey top and a funny hat _ and carries six cars and a load of pedestrians. There is also a lift to the upper platform where you can walk across. Sadly [not] today was too windy. I think I would have had issues. Major issues.

I don’t remember this one being opened but I do remember the opening of the Severn bridge. The first one. I was still in short trousers and it was a major event. The bridge. Not the trousers. Growing up I remember having to get the ferry across or drive the long way round to get to Bristol or down to the coast. In high season the queues were bonkers. Although years later the naive new driver that was me would panic at breaking down on the bridge. There were signs that said if you broke down there would be charges of £25 min. I thought that it was a charge per minute. Not the minimum charge. I held my breath every time I crossed the bridge. But I did wear my commemorative badge for the opening. I’m not sure if it came from TWW. ~ Television Wales and West where a neighbour worked. Probably along with my Tufty club badge.

It was pretty windy down by the unesco heritage site but we managed a bit of a wander but to be honest after yesterdays marathon all I wanted was to get back toto base and have a cuppa tea & cake. Marathon? 25,000 steps.

There were some interesting buildings. The Town Hall. An old multi coloured train station. All shut up but we didn’t venture up into the side streets.

They like painted houses here. Talk of multi coloured swap shop and it’s not all Farrow and Ball or Little Greene either. Other options are availabl. Well I don’t recognise the colours if they are. I could probably repaint them all,with the sample pots we have in our cellar.

There was the odd bit of black and white along the river which is a stark but welcome contrast to the colourful houses.

Thursday was supposed to be a wet day but it wasn’t we had planned to go to the Guggenheim so we did. It amazes me just how cheap the entry to the museums and places of interest are in Spain. But Ian said it was a bit much for me to have time enter an upstairs window if I got the reduced price for a senior. What bugged me more is that they didn’t seemed surprised,

The structure is fabulous and the inside spaces amazing. Lots of steel; glass and shiny surfaces. But it’s incredibly light and airy and never feels too busy. Like a lot of museums I don’t get all of the art or sculptures but I’m sure I am not alone in that.

I liked these ~ an exhibition called masking identities. An interesting collection. Big. Bright and interesting. Not so the next painting which I just don’t get. No doubt someone will. But it’s not me.

Yep. That’s it. I stood and looked for a while. And looked. And looked. But still I don’t get it. I’m sure one of my artist friends will enlighten me. But I still won’t get it.

Have I said I like tulips? This was a great creation ~ a bouquet of multicolour balloon flowers. 2 metres tall and 5 metres across. These were part of the Jeff Koons celebration series from 1994. I loved them. I think I will put a blog with just photos o many to put here.

I suspect you’ve had enough by now. I have so the rest will be in part 2. Till then it’s an exit from the Guggenheim and a snack.

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Here. There. Over here.

So I’ve had a break. Yes I know I’m not long back from one. But this time it was solo. 7 nights at la casa. Alone. When we first had the cottage I’d occasionally go there on my own. My mother, who rarely went anywhere on her own in the nearly 70 years that my parents were married, would say. ‘ But won’t you be lonely.’ My reply ‘ No mum. I’ll be alone. That’s a totally different thing. To be fair Ian and I haven’t been together for 32 years by spending 247 together. Ask him how we have got this far he will say ‘ at first different counties. These days different countries. To be fair. He’s right.

It was an eventful flight over. The flight was full. Totally full. I found myself getting cross at some of the passengers. Then realising I was probably older than the ones I was getting cross with. The flight was 65% Saga and 20% 16-18 ye olds on a school trip. The first group was a Saga group which I was reminded that I am old enough by a long way to be a member. I’m a ditherer whenever flying. Checking the whereabouts of my phone. My passport. Ian. But multiply that by trillions and it was this flight. Not helped on arrival where we had to board the bus. Sadly I remember travel where you had to stand alongside the plane as the luggage was offloaded and you had to pick yours out. These days I rarely put luggage in the hold. It’s amazing just how light you can travel.

Cómpeta

As usual I digress. But a quick run to pick up the car hire bus. Not pick up a bus. That would be silly. But the bus to take me to pick up the car and I was away up the mountain. Up the wiggly road whilst continually thinking just how dry everything was. Crisp I think was the word that went through my head. Still no significant rain. And still no sign of it coming. Oh and still we don’t have mains water permanently. This trip I gave up trying to work out what day we got it and what days we didn’t. Or even what times of the day.

Casa Verano Eterno

I still get that feeling as I pull into the drive at the house. Usually the feeling after the drive up the wiggly road of needing the loo but always the joy of arriving to the gate. No. It wasn’t open for me ~ this was taken after the toilet stop.

When we first bought the house I had arranged to have a lock put on the gate. We completed and had a flight booked for two weeks later. Did I wait? No. Two days after completion I was here. No lock on the gate. I woke the next morning to find the gates being put into a pick up and about to be driven off. I went to the gate and realised they were going off to have the lock fitted. I asked in my Spanglish when they were coming back. How rude when the driver stuck up two fingers. Until I realised he knew my Spanish was pants and was trying to tell me that they’d be back at 2. They did come back. Not at 2. I realised at that time the meaning of the word manana.

The name of the house has this this year been accurate. Casa Verano Eterno. The house of Eternal Summer. This years summer has and still goes on. And on. And on. A bit like me to be fair but at some point the weather has to turn. Speaking of turning. Years ago I was having Accupuncture. My mother knew I hated needles. ‘What are you having that for? ‘ she asked. ‘To make me a nice person’. Really? She replied. ‘Does she have enough needles’ Apparentlyq not!!

.

Face in the garden

The garden is so dry and it’s amazing what does and doesn’t survive. It’s such a huge learning curve for me. I keep saying it. There are drought tolerant and there are drought tolerant plants. I’ve lost things like gaura which have burnt to a crisp. The leaves on the agapanthus are scorched. Some salvias have survived. No flowers. But still alive. At this time of year there would normally be rain and there would be a further flush of colour. But there’s no rain forecast for at least another month. We are still on a day on few days off mains water cycle. But it is getting easier now the summer demand for water is reducing.

I’m always staggered at these ferns. They get some water but not a lot. They are in bright hot sunlight. Yet they are pretty magnificent. I’d never be able to replant them in new pots ~ one I’d never move them and two they are big enough. Three. I can’t actually be bothered. There are other things on the agenda. On Ian’s lists. Yes. They still appear.

The one thing about the heat is the slight whiff of the curry plant as you walk past on the heat of the day. I hacked these back pretty hard in Spring on the basis if they died they died. But they haven’t and have become more bushy. . Very few yellow flowers this year but I can live with that. They are under the large olive tree and the soil here is pretty rubbish too. But they do well. I did consider a curry path. But….. it’s not really the scented path I imagine.

There were very few grapes on the vine this year but the little there have been were eaten by the birds. I’ve realised I have the last two years vine prunings in the garage. They are great for lighting the wood burner. I’ve you bought any kindling this year. Is nearly doubled in price. Sadly we sing have grape vines in Camberwell.. I know nothing about vines and we had the Gardner from Vivero Fkorenas to prune for us. He’s Spanish and knows his stuff. We said we didn’t think it had been pruned for two years. He looked and counted. He said 5. He was right.

I spent most of the week in the garden. Weeding. Dodging the mozzies. Driving back and forth to the garden centre to collect compost feed to add to the soil. The soil on the garden is pants and needs work. I think I carried 21 bags back. Not literally. But in the boot of the car in a couple of trips. On Saturday I realised that I needed to go and get some more as the garden centre is closed Sunday and Monday. I had one bag left on the path. I thought I’d worked really hard lugging the bags around. So I headed off. Bought 4 more bags. Two more Clivia. And said to Lorraine ‘don’t worry. The car is down the ramp I’ll put them in the boot.’ I opened the boot and there were 4 bags. I hadn’t even taken the last lot out! Anyway. All bar one has been scattered on the garden. But look at the bags. To be honest I didn’t know whether to smoke it or scatter it. I’ve cautious. So I scattered it.

I did manage a short sit on the chair in the sun but I’m not one for sitting and getting burnt!

The view looking up the curvy path. I’ve lost the lavender again this year. So I’m giving up for now. It had two chances. And used them.

The creeping rosemary is doing so much better so I will continue to replant that. I have lost two very large rosemary bushes but I suspect they were pretty ancient. This path had some gaura. All gone. The agapanthus. The Clivia. The birds of paradise all doing ok. I have planted a new sesbania ~ an ornamental shrub with reddish-orange flowers. It has deciduous leaves and grows to a height of 15 feet. It says it likes water but the one we have already gets some but not a lot. The garden centre had some of the seeds from me and have grown them for me. Fingers crossed.

Seshamia

I make no excuse in including yet another photo like this. Growing in pots. With a fabulous view to the coast. As long as you don’t look at the dodgy hedge. I think we need some more for the bank. Not a cactus. A euphorbia.

Have you ever tried stripping the leaves off these yuccas. Well not these ones in particular but to be honest I’m very happy for you to. A bit of a nightmare especially without gloves ~ which were sitting on the shelf in the garage. But it cleans them up and I officially love the variegated yuccas.

There is always time for a cuppa and a piece of cake. The only trouble is that once I sit down it’s an effort to get back up. Sometimes I just don’t bother and stay there until I can. Watching crap tv. Or just loving the view. From the sofa. Especially on a solo trip.

A reminder of my years living with my parents. Except this plant is in the garden. Not in a pot in the house with the obligatory rubber plant and the spider plants. There are swathes of these monstera ~ Swiss cheese plants in the Botanical gardens in Malaga. And they look fabulous there. I’m not keen in the garden. In Malaga they are magnificent. But as long as it survives it stays. So far it’s done 5 years.

To be fair. Don’t feel sorry for all the hard work. All work and no play and all that. I did venture into Cómpeta. A few evenings at favourite restaurants. A walk around town.

Early morning light over the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. It was all cut back at the end of the summer and I’m hoping it will be awash with the wildflowers again next year. There are still wild fires happening around Spain which are worrying. That’s why I have the roundabout cut back. It worries me.

There are few flowers in the garden at the moment. I must ask what the first one is. It’s written down somewhere. UPDATE ~ you know when the owner of the local garden centre qheee i but my plants in Spain has read the blog. You get a message. ‘And the Red flower is jatropha integerrima’ Thanks Lorraine.!

Whilst there is little colour in the garden there are plenty of interesting leaves. Colour. Shape and texture. The large leaves of the black and white bird of paradise. Strelitzi Nicolai The gorgeous texture of the Colocasia mojito.

No garden post would be a Cómpeta post without the fabulous foxtail agave. I have replanted two and this pot contains a few more that need moving.

When we were in Cómpeta the last time we went on the fabulous Cómpeta Art Walk and Ian purchased these great black and white prints from our friend Dave at Cómpeta Portraits. These aren’t in their final place ~ maybe they are but Ian will need to decide. Along with two more that Dave has just framed for us.

So the week is over. A glorious last night view from the terrace down the mountain to the coast. An early night and an even earlier morning.

What idiot books a flight for 8.10 from Malaga for a Tuesday morning. Yep Ian. But for me. To be honest I don’t mind. I was up and out 4.45 to drive down the mountain and I met two cars untilI I got to the main road.

Back to the UK where a young boy with his father was at passport control and his father was joking with his son about the lady behind the desk saying she knew everything as she was friends with Father Xmas. ( sorry. Mentioning Xmas when Joseph doesn’t even know Mary is pregnant yet)

I couldn’t help myself. When it was my turn I said I couldn’t help overhearing that you are friends with Father Christmas. Could you do me a favour. I’ve been a good boy too so can you ask him to sort my b***y passport out. It never works on the E gates and I’m always sent to this naughty step! She laughed. ‘ sorry. I’m border control. If I was from passport office I’d love to help!

As I arrives back I get an email to say a parcel has arrived for me at the shop where all our mail is delivered. That will be my Peter Nyssen bulbs. I have returned home to boxes upon boxes of tulip bulbs. I may be quiet for a while. ( No chance).

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A holiday within a holiday ~ Cordoba

Let me get something off my chest for starters. Spanish underground car parks. They give me the creeps. Not because they are scary. But because they scare me. What is it will pillars. These car parks weren’t built for todays modern cars. The spaces are too narrow. The pillars. Well they are everywhere. And the turning circles and ramps down. just don’t go there. That’s my whinge. I’ll go round and round looking for a nice space to drive in and out of ~ but not in the car park in Cordoba and I was t even driving in!

Friends were staying in Seville and we arranged to meet up when they visited Cordoba. Never ones to say no to a trip away we arranged to drive to cordoba and stay over for two nights and to meet up for supper. We are so well positioned in Competa. Granada is about 1:5 miles drive. Seville is about 3. Malaga 1 and Cordoba is 2hrs 20. We have done it as a day trip by car. I’ve done it by train from Malaga as a day trip. This time we decided to stay for two nights.

We managed to stay right next to the Mosque Cathedral ~ really central and easy to find. The hotel not the cathedral. That’s well signposted.

The Roman Bridge has been around since 1st. Century and the existing bridge is largely from 8thc. A lot of locations for Game of Thrones weee filmed in Spain and the majestic roman bridge was featured in series 5. Ian told me. He was a fan. I just watched bits when we happened to be in the same room. In the same house in the same country. But I also understand they also used CGI to make it look bigger. I think it looks pretty amazing as it is.

Córdoba Uber. No we didn’t try ~ but there are lots of them.

I have been to Cordoba three times before. This is visit number four to the Mosque cathedral. Almost as many times as I’ve visited The Alhambra in Granada. Both are stunning. But the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba) blows my mind. I think it’s the subtlety of the Mosque; it’s beautiful simplicity with the stunning architecture of its columns Against the bling bling of the cathedral. To have the two in one building is stunning. Spain has 49 UNESCO world Heritage sites and the Mosque Cathedral is one of them.

We visited at night ~ Saturday night its free entrance so why not. It’s a very different experience at night. The lighting is different as is the atmosphere. Oh. And did I say it was free.

I’d have loved to have heard the organ played. In the cathedral and Mosque I’m sure the acoustics would be amazing. Sat under a stunning ceiling. Stunning plasterwork.

The altar was typically grand as you would expect in a Catholic Church. As a vicar friend of mine one replied when I asked which service I should attend at the church where he was officiating ‘ come to the later one. It’s all bells and smells’. That sums me up. Our local vicar once said I was a a festival worshipper . He didn’t mean Glastonbury ~ he meant Christmas and Harvest festival.

The choir seats were a bit spooky. Each arm rest had a figure carved into it. Beautifully carved. All individual. But scary. The seats are carved mainly out of mahogany wood with a row of 30 upper seats and a row of 23 lower seats, all with these carvings.

At the end of the day the brass still needs polishing. I remember my mother getting the brasso out to polish the brass candlesticks and the knocker on the front door. I can smell it still. I remember it made your fingers black.

I would have thought I’d be used to the narrow Spanish streets after five years. But it never ceases to amaze me how narrow they are and how the cars and vans manoeuvre their way through. People have to stand in door ways like sentries. It’s my nightmare having to manoeuvre my way through these streets. Once in Sentil de las Bodegas I threatened to just get out of the car and get the hire company come and collect it. Just where I’d stopped preferably. I was breathing in as we drove through.

The main reason for the trip to Cordoba ~ although Ian and I never need an excuse for a road trip ~ was to meet up with friends who were travelling in Spain. Five us had worked together over the years and had been friends for over 35 years. Ian and Sarah trained together and are birthday twins. Sane day. Same month same year. Four of us were business partners. Four of us are partners. Confused. Don’t be. We know what’s going on and that’s all that counts. The hotel had recommended a restaurant for supper on the Sunday evening. I’m often dubious about hotel recommendations but this was spot on. Great food. Great atmosphere and great conversation. Don’t ask about the plates. It would take an age to explain.

Casa Pepe

Who doesn’t go on a bus tour when travelling in a new city. Ok. Not that new to us but it’s always worth the trip around the city. It helps get your bearings. If we hadn’t been on the bus we wouldn’t have seen this place and hopped off. The Palacio Viana. Is a fabulous Renaissances palace with 12 beautifil and very different patio gardens.

It was was the private residence of the 3rd Marquise of Viana until his death in 1980 and was bought by a Cordoba bank on his death. He died with no heirs.

The wheels on the bus

I love a view through a door in the garden ~ this one draws you in from one patio garden to the next. I love the idea of having the gardens like a series of rooms.

How do they get the plumbago to grow this large. Mine at La Casa is pretty poor. If it’s still alive. I need to check when I’m next there but I’d love for it to cover the garage wall like this.

I can’t imagine this going through the streets of Cordoba but it did. How they manoeuvred around the corners on these small often bumpy streets. I’d be happier being carried around in the smaller one.

There was a lot of wandering. A bit of a bizarre evening where we had booked supper at a restaurant which looked good. We arrived and were shown to a table. A table where you needed a lift to get on the chairs and once you’d managed it you immediately started slipping off. We asked to move. We were considering moving restaurants ~ loud music was coming from the roof top terrace. By loud I mean booming. We were the oldest swingers in town.

We were seated in an alcove. Great table. Tucked away in a corner. The best table for people watching. A huge mirror just in view where the young and trendy had camera phones in hand probably for Instagram or tick toc and were taking their selfies as they passed. Unaware we were watching. I never realised the effort you should put into a pose for these photos. Mine are selfie snaps and not that often. Flicks of the hair. One foot forward. Stand kinda sideways. I might try it. Except my pout would be a gurn and my arthritic hip would give out and I’d ultimately fall over. But the service was excellent. The food really good and the complimentary G& T at the end more than generous in size. The entertainment perfect.

We didn’t do the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos this time. We tried on the Saturday night. Another free entry but the queue for the queue was huge and despite the British love of queuing , 10pm on a Saturday night was not for me. Oh. And it’s closed on a Monday. We have been before and I’m not sure what the gardens would have been like. It’s been a long hot dry summer in Spain. As they used to say on Blue Peter ( ask your parents if you are young) here’s one I made earlier. On a previous visit. And not with sticky backed plastic and a squeezey bottle.

We have another Spanish adventure lined up. Next stop Bilbao. One thing is guaranteed. There will be pictures. Maybe a blog. But definitely pictures.

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Have House guests will travel

Back to the cottage for a while and we have a guest staying. I love it when we do as it makes us get off our backside and do things. Ian has a saying about house guests.

He says they are like fish and go off after 4 days. He has a general but not a hard and fast rule that guests usually only stay that time. This guest can and does stay longer. She fits into the great house guest category. And is a regular visitor to Somerset and Spain. And reads the blog.

There was a list of things to do. Garden visits. Lunch out. Supper with friends. The other good things about great house guests is that there is no hard and fast rule of what where and when. Let’s leave the structured days to organised trips which indeed have their own value. But not from one’s home. The weeks list was varied and a great distraction from the gardening I would have otherwise done or not done had we been on our own.

I always think the strength of my likes for a garden visit are the number of photos I take. There are two clear favourites from this week. I’ll let you see what you think. But over two blogs.

Hestercombe House and gardens

We hadn’t been to Hestercombe House. Despite livig in the county for nearly 30 years. When we were both working we would travel to the cottage on a Friday and back on a Sunday or Monday so most time was spent locally with friends. Local friends made over the years and/or visiting godchildren family and parents. There weren’t enough days in a weekend. But hey. What’s retirement for if not enjoying your self. I have to pinch myself that I’m coming up to my 7 year anniversary of early retirement. I still laugh at the comments that were thrown at me. Won’t you be bored was the most asked question. The answer then was NO. 7 years later it’s still no and as I approach a milestone birthday there is still plenty I want to do whilst I’m still able. A milestone birthday. And it’s not 21.

Hestercombe gardens is a fine example of the partnership between Gertrude Jekyll and Sir Edward Lutyens. In 1944 the estate except for the House and the formal gardens were sold with the latter two sold to Somerset County council in 1978. The house and gardens are now managed by a garden trust.

With the current heatwave many gardens are not at their best. At bit like me to be fair. Needing plenty of water and feed. The layout and planting are great but when we visited there was not as much colour as you would have expected. I found the planting not as interesting as I had hoped for but there were pockets of beauty. I’m not quite sure what the gypsophylia was but it was stunning. I must ask as it was like a fluffy white cloud of very small flowers.

There were some swathes of colour like this purple around some very lovely urns.

Hsnshehehe

Pollen coated bee

Ia greaarden fro

Hestercombe planting

The echinop were a plenty in the garden and the great swathes of them were full of bees. Some covered in pollen like they had been dusted with icing sugar. It’s a great garden for pollinators ~ it’s been a long time since I have seen so many bees in one place.

What I would say about Hestercombe is that for the garden visits it came up as number one for the garden cafe. Both for menu and service. An excellent three course set menu ~ with an excellent main menu available. The staff were brilliant. Friendly and personable. Helpful and charming. I would go back just to eat at the cafe if I was in the area. Also the garden cafe isn’t behind thenAye all so,you can go and visit the cafe without having to go into the garden. That’s a bonus in my view. We will be back.

Forde Abbey

Forde Abbey

Another day another garden. We visited Forde Abbey on our guests previous visit but at a different time of year. It rained then and we watched the fountain erupt in the rain. This time the sun was shining and to be honest we did t know what to expect. Oh and the fountain didn’t erupt the whole time we were there. Maybe saving water ?

It’s a large garden with different areas. Can I just say one word. Fabulous. Another. Colourful. The planting is just up my street. Gorgeous planting. Zingy colours. Delightful borders. The gardens are listed as Grade II in the National Heritage list for England as a historically important garden. On my list as ‘ a bloody lovely garden’. And a big one. Covering over 30 acres. This time we didn’t manage to get to the bog garden. Not that I need an excuse to go back.

Wonderful wide borders against the wall were a delight with views across to the house. The combination of planting was astonishing given the current weather and the gardens are so beautifully maintained.

A highlight was the wonderful wildflowers. Planted to form a maze like feature it was stunning. I’m told they do the same with tulips for the spring so we will be back. Not that I need the excuse of spring but the tulips will beckon. There is a lovely Sitting spiritually rocking bench just overlooking the wildflowers. A company I first saw at RHS Chelsea decades ago. One of three of their swings at Forde Abbey. To add to the collection of ones seen here there was another at the Seaside boarding house. More if that in the next blog. Don’t hold your breath. It may or not be for a while.

The planting of the borders at the edge of the long pond are fabulous and can be seen from across the water and in front. Great planting to have views from both sides. . A word I know I’ve used a lot about this garden. Fabulous. But to be honest there are the colours. The plants. The combinations.

Time to sit and relax

This is not a sitting spiritually swing . The third one in the garden was unavailable. The people on it refused to budge. This bench was a welcome seat on the middle part of the wander as I headed off ahead to take photographs. For once ahead of the game leaving the other two,to,sit and I suspect put the world to rights.

Forde Abbey

Who lives in a house like this.? A former Cistercian Abbey occupied as a private house by the same family since 1905. Used as a film location for Far from the Madding Crowd, Restoration and Daniel Doranda we didn’t go inside the house. But we will. They open for Christmas. That is tempting.

Oh for a veg garden like this.

There is a large walled vegetable garden as you enter the gardens from the car park area. An amazing array of vegetables. Amazing looking rows of onions. Of cabbages and cauliflowers. I meant to ask the gardeners what happens to the veg. The garden is too large to supply just the house and I suspect not big enough for,a commercial enterprise. But whoever gets it is lucky!

What would be great is for the garden produce to be used in the cafe. Especially the salads in the summer months. Hint hint. We will be back

There is nursery at Forde Abbey and we came away with a car filled with new plants. But. Disaster. I missed the dahlia section. That’s a big fail on my part and I can’t quite understand how I did it. . I have a nose for a dahlia sale, I suspect skullduggery on Ian’s part to get us away from buying anymore plants. Two more words I keep saying ‘Next time’

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Up the garden path ~ again

Well we are back. But it looked a bit shaky when we were waiting to board the plane in London. Booked well in advance like most of our flights for the year to get a decent price or moved from the last two years supply of vouchers. A packed flight checked in and waiting to board only to be asked for volunteers to not take the flight. Weather was going to be bad. The plane was too heavy. Not with our luggage ~ we had the smallest bags imaginable but they needed 22 people to volunteer.

Guess how many they got. Yep. None. So there was a roll call of names. They decided and the luggage had already been removed. We’d escaped the roll call. But to be honest I was tempted. The compensation was generous.

We had a car to pick up. Oh. And the fire had been lit ready for our arrival. Hot water was on and there was the essentials in the fridge. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Good neighbours are worth their weight in gold.

It is 5 years to the weekend we first viewed this house. 5 years and I can’t quite believe how fast the time has gone. Even with the two lost years when travel was sparse.

I still get the joy of arriving at the gate and opening it into the garden. Ian will tell you that I didn’t want to see the house. It had everything I didn’t want. 10 mins from town . A decent sized garden. A pool. But he will also tell you that I only walked through the gate and I’d made up my mind.

The garden has changed a bit over the years we have been here. We have had to adapt to the fact that we aren’t here all the time and that we need to plant even more drought tolerant plants. Rain this last year has been especially scarce although it’s chucking down a storm right now and rain is forecast for the next week. By chucking it down I mean chucking it down. Apparently it’s Celia’s fault. Storm Celia hitting the Costa del Sol. The next few days are forecast between 10-20 mm. each day. But even that will only have a marginal effect on the reservoirs. To the west of Malaga water restrictions start this week.

We arrived later than planned. Late departure and arrival. A massive queue at border control. Gone are the days of a cursory glance at your British passport and a wave through. Now every British passport is scanned by the two people on duty. And stamped. Don’t forget it needs stamping in and out for recording of your 90/180 day limit.

Despite being late. Despite being tired I always have to have that walk around the garden to have the cursory check even though it’s dark. For a minute the concerns over electricity prices are thrown to the wind and as my mother would say ‘ with all these lights on it’s like Blackpool illuminations’ I’m still getting my head around the price timings here. There are three time bands at various times of the day. The whole of Spains washing machines are either on at weekends or between midnight and eight am.

I can see that despite the late planting of tulips at the end of January that they have pushed through and the pots are all showing a good success. Hopefully we can time our trips to be here when they are out. I can look closer tomorrow when there is a break in the rain. If there is one.

Well there was a break in the rain. The tulips in the white wall planter are doing well. Not much further behind the ones I planted in London. I’d tell you what I’ve planted. If I could remember. It was a mad dash to,plant and I can’t find my plan. ( Did I even have one). The other pots are also doing well and should make a good display.

I’ve planted a lot of Rosemary around the garden. The windey path has a creeping Rosemary edging on one side. It’s taken and it’s flowering but I think I should either add some ‘normal” Rosemary or rework the edging. Not a job for now. But the flowers on the plants are looking great and they do well with little water.

The clivia are out in full force. I’ve mentioned before that I first had these as houseplants. Bought in Somerset from a neighbour who had the most fabulous garden shop in Castle Cary. Clare introduced me to these and I always think of her when I see them now. But now planted outside in the Mediterranean garden rather than indoors.

I cut the cistus back quite hard as it hadn’t been touched for two years. I wasn’t expecting it to be flowering now. But it is. Gorgeous crepe paper like flowers though today battered by the rain. But a welcome sight of a bit of colour.

I first planted freesia here in 2019 or was it 2018. Whichever one they do well. I have added more each year all~ from Peter Nyssen. I didn’t see any last year as we didn’t come out when they were in flower but our neighbours enjoyed them. I told them to keep picking them. I have tried them in pots in London but they just didn’t work. These are a mixture of pots and in the ground and a mix of single and double flowers and give a fabulous display.

The dodonea is a spectacular colour at this time of the year but has really insignificant flowers. I need to get some more plants as they are great drought tolerant plants and the colour is vibrant. I must pick some for indoors.

I’m not sure where this came from. I haven’t planted any in over two years. Must be a self seeder which has appeared in a pot. Just the one though. It’s a very welcome addition and I hope it will self seed again. It reminds me of my parents garden as they always had some in the bk garden.

The yellow banksia rose climbing through the jacaranda is a bit straggly this year. A reminder I need to do a tidy up for next year. It’s such a lovely little rose and another welcome sight so early in the season. We had a rose arch made for the side gate and I’m off to pick up the climbing rose tomorrow. No doubt there may be more than just one rose purchased. I’ll make a list this evening.

The bathroom bed is a bit of a hotch potch of a bed. A real mixture of plants. Two large pomegranates dominate , well they did until we had them severely cut back. There are succulents. Some canna. Agapanthus. The lovely dodonea. A large lemon grass and like everywhere else lots of Rosemary. Oh and some drumstick alliums ( I’m never planting them again). Oh. I forgot. The large leaves of the strelitzia Reginae and the Swiss cheese plant.

There are three of the bird of paradise out with three more flower spikes to open. I’m more worried that I can’t see any sign of movement on the strelitzia Nicolai ~ the lovely black/blue and white variety. I’ve planted three more as I love the size and the flowers. Fingers crossed. No doubt I’ll tell you when and if there are flowers.

Meanwhile on the bank by the front gate the mimosa is about to open fully. Not bad considering the original tree had died and the new shoots are now a 10ft tree. If open fully this visit I’ll be picking for vases indoors.

Above the mimosa are the Pines which are looking the best they have since we have been here. I love the colours.

I’ve seen a window in the rain for tomorrow which means a bit of a feed. The plants not me and a bit of a tidy of the agapanthus and a look at the other parts of the garden and the pots. In between seeing friends. A visit to the bank and shopping. But. I’ll be back.

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Nuestro Jardín Mediterráneo

Well that was a short break. One of the shortest trips to Spain ever I think. But to be honest any trip is a bonus after the last two years. This time in 2020 we were just back and preparing for a trip to Mexico. With trips planned for the rest of the year. Little did we know then that in 2020 I would get about 6 weeks in late summer then nothing again until exactly a year later. 3 weeks. And then nothing until this trip. So it may have only been 8 nights but it felt like a lifetime.

If I was professional blogger that hose would have been moved as would have the plant holder. But I’m not ~ I say this is much a diary for me and not for publication! The garden has fared well in our abscence and we are so lucky to have great neighbours and a gardener who goes in once a month. It’s funny how I wandered around the garden for a week and then at the end of it realised what had been done. Without asking. The citrus had been pruned. The almonds had been cut back. All things I had meant to,ask for but didn’t. It was just done.

Wiggly path

We spent the latter half of the week collecting leaves and just generally tidying the beds. Unlike Somerset we didn’t have to spend so much time swearing at ground elder and the multitude of weeds we get there. To be fair it’s been so dry here the weeds would have shrivelled and died. And the serious over waterer has been absent. But we still managed to fill bags of garden waste. We have room for a compost heap but I don’t want to leave heaps of dried leaves and garden refuse as I’m worried about fires. The area around the house has been cut back as I’m paranoid about it catching fire.

Cactus opuntia

I was so pleased to see the prickly pear ( the plant not us) had survived the ravages of the cochineal bug which are commonly found on the cactus Opuntia. Boy. Are they prevalent here. When we are here regularly I can keep an eye on it but when we aren’t it goes crazy. There are very few around the area now which haven’t succumbed. This one even had fruit. Not that I have ever eaten one. if you squash the bug you’ll get covered in red dye. Try getting that off your red wall. Or white T-shirt.

The roundabout that’s not a roundabout

last year the roundabout that’s not a roundabout was cleared of all of the dry vegetation. By now I’d expect it to be covered in the yellow oxalis pes caprae but the dry weather has put things back. There is a small patch at the bottom of the access drive which I suspect was watered from a water leak we had. Don’t ask. It was a big one.

Oxalis pes Caprae

The flowers are really an acidic yellow but en masse make a lovely colour splash. The roundabout which isn’t a roundabout then has a succession of wildflowers to add to its solitary almond tree and two small fig trees which produce very small figs. Tasty if you can be bothered to climb the bank. Which I don’t often. Not with my balance.

Terrace pots.

Let’s talk about pots. The two at the edge of the path have been filled with tulips. I ordered Tulip Ballerina. El Niño. Temple of Beauty. I think El Niño is planted here. Along the white wall I’ve planted Armani. All tulips which I had planned to,plant when we arrived mid December for Christmas. But we didn’t arrive so they have had to go in in late January. Hopefully they will be ok. I’ve also planted four more pots dotted around the terrace ~ Temple of beauty and Ballerina. I’m hoping we will be there to see them this year. I also moved pots around. The bird of paradise ~ strelitzia Reginae into a bit more of a sunnier spot. It has four flower spikes forming so maybe. Just maybe I’ll see them. Empty pots should have been moved to the side of the house. Looking at that pic I realise I didn’t do it.

Terrace pots

To the other side is one of my favourites. The foxtail agave ~ agave attentuata ~ which has done really well, ~ probably better as it hasn’t been fussed over. The added benefit is that there are about four more that are growing in the pot which I need to replant into their own pots. Then later I will plant direct into the garden. But not this one. When they flower they have a fabulous long tail,like flower. Then die. So I don’t want this one to flower ever.

Cactus that is a cactus

This spikey blighter is on the slope where we don’t venture. Which as just as well as it’s lethal. We won’t be having one of these in the main garden. Ever. But it does have pretty flowers. Just along from this are the mimosa trees. Huge. Usually full of flowers. Not yet though.

Almond blossom

The almond blossom is out in abundance around the Campo. Except in our garden. We have five almond trees at the rear of the house and there is a little blossom but it’s always later than most. Don’t ask me if it’s sweet almonds or not. I don’t have a clue. I have picked the almonds. Dried them but haven’t cracked them. I have tried and failed. They are a hard nut to crack. But the blossom is a amazing.

Loquat

We also have two loquat or nispero trees behind the almonds. I would grow these just for their leaves whicrh are huge. The fruit rarely ripens on the tree and when it does it has to be picked quickly. I find it doesn’t keep well and certainly doesn’t travel.

Side border
Monstera deliciosa

The border if I can call it that at the side of the house pretty much looks after itself. I have added a few things to the original plants that were there when we bought the house. Which I can’t believe is coining up to 5 years ago. 5 whole years and my Spanish is still not as good as Ian’s. I digress which I do a lot. Back to plants. The Swiss cheese plant is still alive and I’ve grown to like it. The trouble is that growing up we had one. Indoors. Along with the rubber plant. The Christmas cactus. The spider plant. Who knew they grew outdoors. Everyone but me. T have planted more agapanthus. That’s a surprise. Another strelitzia. Some Allium.

Aeonium

I’ve rescued the aeonium ~ replanted. Staked and moved to a better position. It could do with a wash looking at this photo.

Succulent pot

I’m surprised just how much gardening we did. But you know ~ it’s never ending. I have a list already for our next visit. And the three after.

To be fair it wasn’t all gardening. A trip down the windy road to Nerja. A trip down the wiggly road for lunch in Caletta. Friends around for wine and cake. There has to be cake. I was surprised I didn’t get stopped with my pots of powder. Liquorice powder to make a chocolate liquorice cake. One pot for me. Two pots for friends. Along with eye drops for another. Friend. Not cake.

There was a little walking. Not much to be fair. We walked for miles on Sunday then realised it was all uphill back. An idiots mistake. Mine.

There were sunsets. I won’t bore you with the amazing sunsets from the terrace. I can do that with my Instagram posts.

But my favourite part is always the garden.

Until next time.

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Hello again Hola

It’s been a while. Three months I think. But we are back. We were due to travel for Christmas. But we cancelled. Too much of a fuss. Too uncertain. Would we get back. Add to that Fred the geriatric cat having a fit a week before we were due to leave. At 18 he rules. We stayed.

Leaving on a jet plane

But we are here. A full flight. One couple a mother and daughter sat in front of us on the flight who seemed incapable of keeping a mask on. Or of wearing it properly despite the poor flight attendant asking numerous times. I don’t know what’s worse. The kids kicking the back of the seat whilst their parents watch films. To be fair mask bandits in enclosed spaces are the worst.

An easy journey. London City airport was quiet. Except for our full flight. Malaga was a doddle. Easy through passport control ~ passport stamped. Make sure that happens in and out. The Spanish entry form shown and bingo. Ready to pick up the car. The wiggly road hasn’t changed. It’s still wiggly. But what a sigh of relief as we were finally at home. Greeted by our neighbours locking the gates as they left. I assumed they had left us the milk and bread. I mentioned We had stopped to get firelighters.. They had said the day before the house was cold. Baltic was the word. They said nothing except see you for a cuppa later.

Welcome home

I needn’t have worried about the firelighters. ( other than to laugh as I had originally written we had stopped to pick up some firefighters!) They had been in to top up the fire which they had lit in the morning. The house was warm. The shutters all open. the bathroom radiators on. Good neighbours are great. Awesome neighbours even better.

Ferns ferns ferns

I can’t tell you how good it is to be back. Well I can and probably have. The garden is looking ok to be fair. There is some work to do but I have had to adapt to the fact that for the last two years the visits have been infrequent and unpredictable. Some things have survived when I thought they wouldn’t. I planted a plumeria ~ frangipani ~ which I’ve admired for ages. I’m happy to say it’s still alive. Needs a bit more TLC but it’s alive and will flourish now the Warner weather is here.

One of the palms in the pot is dying. I have no idea why but I will plant it in the ground and if it flourishes then it stays. If not it goes. I can’t be too,precious when we aren’t here as often at the moment.

Cactus that’s not a cactus

You’ve got to love a cactus that’s not a cactus. But a euphorbia candelabrum. Two in pots. Both doing well. This year better than ever.

dodonea

The lovely bronze red of the dodonea ( dodonea viscosa) which is a great colour at this time of year. A good drought tolerant plant which is needed in this garden. Supposed to be a rapid grower but doesn’t seem to be for me. I need to try some on the really dry bank for some colour interest. It self seeds a bit too. Insignificant flowers but worth growing for the colour.

Foxtail agave

Ignore the bits that need clearing. I love these in the garden. This is the largest and is in a pot on the terrace ~ the gorgeous foxtail agave. Agave attentuata. Another drought tolerant plant that does well. There is one at the back of the house. Another in a pot placed in the garden. More small ones to be repotted and planted out. They have a fabulous flower but this hasn’t flowered yet. To be honest I will look at other peoples flowers. They flower in their last year. Then die. I want this one to last forever.

New rose arch

Ignore the wall. It needs a coat of paint. There is time for that in later months. For now ignore the view. Ignore the outdoor shower head. You won’t catch me using it. The waters cold. I know Ian hasn’t used it. It took him three years to realise it was there. It’s the new rose arch and the first time I’ve seen it. Last time I saw anything was a rough ~ and I mean dog rough ~ sketch on a piece of paper. Drawn by me. I’m delighted with it ~ I have the rose on order. Though I may change my mind. Or not.

A view we have missed

Three weeks ago our neighbour video messaged and talked about pruning and cutting back the trees and oleander along our boundary. To be fair they are all on their side. A mix of oleander, Olive and some transparente. His gardener had suggested a hard cut. What did I think? I agreed as things grow back so quickly here. Especially Oleander. It has meant we get more light along the terrace. We get a better view toward the Moroccan coast. But there’s no doubt it was a bit of a shock. A little loss of privacy for us both ~ but that’s short term. Oleander grows like a weed here. It was pruned hard three years ago. It grew back. Another thing about good neighbours and these are different to the fire lighting neighbours. Is that there is always a proper discussion about boundary issues to determine what suits both of us.

We have about five pine trees on the bank. When we were here in October we filled a skip full of pine needles from the bank. Trust me. That’s the first and last time I’ll ever do it. That bank is steep. I slipped and slided like a dodgy contestant on dancing on ice. But this week I have to check for the nests of the processionary caterpillars. I haven’t seen any for two years. But to be fair we haven’t been here around nest time. But the last time we found some we had them removed. Nasty little buggers. Avoid them at all costs. They do what the name says. They march in line. In a procession. It’s a spectacle to see. But scary.

Hardenbergia

The Australian wisteria ~ Hardenbergia ~ is growing over the garden gates. To be fair it’s growing to the sides of the gates. It was pruned hard ~ and the bit over the gate cut back a bit too much. It’s started to flower and it’s going to get better. It needs to. The violet carpenter bees love it. Boy. They are big. Maybe this could be an alternative for the rose arch. Or a banksia rose. Or something smelly. Like a honeysuckle. Or. Or. Or.

Strelitzia Reginae

Timing is everything. Something I don’t quite get right. There are at least three flower spikes on the Bird of Paradise. Strelitzia Reginae This is a short visit so I suspect we won’t see them. But hopefully they will still be around when we are back.

Tomorrow is another day and will be spent in the garden. Sweeping. Tidying. Oh and I’d thought I’d finished bulb planting. But there’s a box in the garage. I may be late ~ I had planned for mid December but better late than never and if they flower they flower. There are two chances. Either they do or they don’t but it’s worth the effort. I definetly want to plant the 10 Urginea Maritima I have from Peter Nyssen. I planted 10 three years ago on the dry bank. They are huge big bulbs and for the first year sis nothing. Then last year our neighbour mentioned that the big onions had leaves. Then later that they had died back. When we arrived in September there were glorious white flower spikes on all 10. So I ordered more. These have to be planted. Along with some pots of tulips and some alliums.

This years Urginea Maritima growth

But at least I won’t have to wear a hat and scarf !

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Didn’t we have a lovely time ~ Jerez & Cadiz

Well we are back in Spain again. For the second time in 6 weeks after an absence of 52. To be fair it seems like we haven’t been away. Except for the wearing of masks in shops and when entering restaurants and if you are unable to social distance.

I love this time of year in Spain. The temperature has dropped and is comfortable. The mosquitos are retreating and the coast is clear. Clear of hordes of beach goers which means quiet walks ( not romantic ) along the beach. But for the final time in 2021 Ian has booked a trip within a trip for 4 nights whilst we are here. He has said again that we are not spending the whole time here in the garden. The last trip and with some help we have got the garden back on track so this trip it will be easier. Little did he know that there are hundreds of bulbs to plant ~ but that will be for December.

First stop after a 3.5 hour drive in the dark. Was Jerez. The joy of being in Competa is that there are so many places of interest within decent driving distance. Malaga. Granada. Ronda. Córdoba. Seville. After four and a half years those have been done. Some more than once. Some more than that. In our first year I had visited Granada countless times primarily to go to the Alhambra. Ian has a list of places that we should see and some for next year will need more planning as they are further afield.

I digress. The early start was for a reason. We had booked our stay in Jerez and then tried to book tickets to see the Horses at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art but the only day there was a show was the day we arrived and the tickets had to be collected by 11am. So it was a 6am start. There were two benefits to the early start. One was that the roads were relatively quiet and two it meant we arrived to collect the tickets before the arrival of the coaches. Which in turn for an hour we virtually had the place to ourselves.

We arrived to the training of some horses and young riders outside in various parts of the grounds and to a cafe full of young riders taking their break. I’d like to say I understand what they were talking about but their excitement was like a runaway train. Not only was there individual training there were carriage driving training going on as well.

The main event takes place in the Picadero ( indoor arena) which when at full capacity seats 1,600 spectators with amazing views of the arena. We had excellent front row seats mid way along the arena with great views. I mainly took videos of the horses which can be found on my Instagram page @pitcombe123

There is so much more to the School. In the grounds there is also the Palace. The Palacio Recreo de las Cardenas built in the 19th century and designed by Charles Garner who also designed the Paris Opera House and the Monte Carlo Casino. We were the only visitors on the ground floor which is the only part open ~ benefit of being early birds.

Ian had booked a small Airbnb for four nights in a great location with easy access on foot to the sights and tapas bars. Whilst the apartment was compact it had an amazing terrace which was an added bonus together with some interesting pots.

Fab Airbnb terrace

Jerez is an interesting place. The architecture varied and with a lot of buildings in various stages of being reformed. It sounds a strange thing to say but the city is very Spanish. But it was. Very. There weren’t hoards of tourists. ( like us) or coach tours. It was very easy to wander around although easy to get lost in the small narrow Andalucian streets though great for shade. As well as being famous for its Horses Jerez is also known for its Sherry. I’ll admit now. I’m not a Sherry lover. I was listening to a radio programme recently where the Spanish were berating how bad the UK is at drinking Sherry. We can all relate to our parents or grandparents or even us opening a bottle of Sherry and be handed a glass from the same bottle a year or so later. This horrifies the Spanish who say it should be treated like a bottle of wine and not left to be drunk once a year at Christmas. I thought growing up that the only Sherry was the sweet Sherry dragged out of the cupboard at Christmas. Harvey’s Bristol Cream if my memory serves me well. We didn’t do a Sherry tour this time but have been told that it’s a must. Just to educate us as to what delights there are out there. Not just a sweet Sherry at Christmas.

Sherry anyone?

Day two was a walk through the narrow streets to the Alcazar a former moorish Alcazar probably built in 11c. Not as big or grand as Seville Granada or Córdoba but interesting. Particuarly as once again when we arrived we were the only ones walking around. Gorgeous large olive trees planted in the Grounds but very little colour in the gardens.

Alcazar Jerez
The baths and the Mosque
Within the grounds of the Alcazar Jerez

The Mosque is the only one remaining of the eighteen once present in the city. I love the star shaped skylights in the ceiling of the bath house which lets in amazing light. You can see some of the original workings of the heating system too which probably worked better than ours at home.

Within the palace is there is the Municipal Pharmacy from the 19th century, beautifully carved shelves and potions and lotions on them all. Along with original glass bottles which I’d happily have taken home.

Lotions and potions

We spent the rest of the day wandering the narrow streets. Stopping for lunch. Afternoon tea and cakes. Getting lost.

Streets of Jerez.

As well as Jerez we had decided to spend a day in Cadiz. Instead of driving we had booked the train which was only a 45 min journey with a 20:min walk from the Airbnb. As usual we decided to get there early and spend the whole day wandering with no agenda. . Another day of leaving in the dark and arriving in the dark. But the streets were quiet and had been cleaned already as we walked to the station.

Jerez ~ walk to the station.

Travel but train is so easy isn’t it. As long as the train goes straight from A to B with no changes. Fast efficient and clean. 45 minutes later we had arrived in Cadiz. As we left the station we were presented with the sight of the cruise liner Queen Elizabeth. Appears Queens are like buses. Three arrive at once. Seeing these cruise liners close up cements my thinking that I don’t want to go on one. Friends love it. But I think for me it’s too big and I have a fear of not being able to get away. Getting away from people. The puerto de Cadiz had a few liners in dock. All huge ships.

Queen Elizabeth

First impressions of Cadiz were good. Final impressions at the end of the day was it was great. It is so good to walk and find your bearings before the crowds descend but to be fair it was never so busy that it was uncomfortable.

One other benefit was arriving to sunrise over the city and the port.

Early morning Cadiz

A walk first along the Campo del Sur to the Castle of San Sebastian at the end of La Caletta. A lovely early morning walk with sea air and the sun rising. What more could you want? To be honest a strong coffee. I had been up for hours.

The castle and watchtower is on a small island connected to the mainland by the walkway but the interior of the castle is currently closed. Both have an interesting and long history.

Castle of San Sebastián

There’s always time for a coffee stop before you climb the tower. We had passed through the square in front of the cathedral when we arrived just as things were just opening up so having done a perusal of the area we were back to people watch before we ventured into the cathedral. People watch we did. Well I did as I’m more nosey than Ian. It was fascinating as there were at least three cruise ships in at the port and I was trying to guess the nationalities of the people. Some were easier than others. The Spanglish gave some away.

Cadiz Cathedral

After breakfast and the enduring wait for the bill we managed to get into the cathedral but not before listening to the tour guide from one of the cruise ships giving his talk to his captive audience. The cathedral wasn’t the most interesting or beautiful for me. I guess I keep comparing the glitz with the last one we visited in Granada where everything that glittered was gold. This one had a remarkable piece of silver instead. Imagine having to polish that once a week.

Silver

I can usually guess how much I liked a place by the number of photographs I took. There weren’t many. The cathedral was beautiful. But nothing stood out for me. Except being told off by Ian for making spooky noises in the crypt and threatening to find a creaky door noise on my phone. Childish. Me. Yes.

I swiftly walked past the entrance to the church Tower but Ian was determined. “You’ll get great views from the top” ‘I know’ I replied “but you know me and stairs. I may get to the top then panic about coming down’ We have a difficult relationship. Not me and Him. Steps and me. As in Steps. Not 5.6.7.8 steps. After 30 years he just ignores me. He says it’s easier. For us both. But the idea of photo opportunities won me over. What won me over more was that there were no steps. No stairs. Just a very long. circular walk to the top. And obviously back down again.

That’s unusual

I usually panic on the way down but I got another telling off. I started signing ‘hi how hi ho hi ho it’s off to woke we go” Especially as we turned the corner and met a couple coming up. They, unlike me , we’re not amused.

Hi ho. Hi ho.

It’s amazing the places you can find. Hidden in a narrow side street is the Oratoria de La Santa Cueva. Leading figures of 18th century Cadiz used the building to withdraw and to undertake spiritual penance. They belonged to the mysterious Spiritual Withdrawal Congregation. It’s a building of two halves, down into the basement you find the gloomy and austere chapel. Dark. Minimalistic. A bit creepy to be honest. Dedicated to the Passion.

In total contrast the upper floor of the High Sacramemt Chapel is opulent and was deliberately designed in contrast to the penitential chapel in the basement. In addition to its opulence it holds a secret stash of Goya paintings in the arches above the alcoves. With beautiful light coming in from the roof Another interesting piece of information ~ Joseph Haydn wrote his work “The Seven Words Last of Our Saviour on the Cross” for this chapel,

The austere Chapel
Opulence and Goya

Sightseeing is exhausting and one needs to feed one’s soul. And stomach. Sadly the tapas bar recommended by a friend was full but the area was full of fabulous little tapas bars. A great late lunch we were ready for more walking.

Lunch

Would I recommend Cadiz. Definetly. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t go to the parks. We didn’t go up the tower. But. We will be back.

Maybe if I win the lottery by private yacht like this one moored in the port. It looked a bit space age to me but definitely stood out.

Lottery win needed.

I suspect my mode of travel will be more subdued.

Reality.

There will be no more trips within a trip for the rest of the year. There will be a Malaga trip. Both to the Christmas lights which are fabulous and this year to a new event at the Botanical gardens. That reminds me to check out the arrangements!

Posted on by happyretiredblog · 5 Comments

1Year, 365 days, 52 Weeks, 8760 hours, 525600 minutes, 3153600 seconds.

Well that’s a mouthful. But that’s how long it’s been since we have been in Spain. I know. We are lucky. We have got this far without being ill. Have had a garden and open spaces to go to and have spent part of the summer in the garden in Somerset. But. There is always a but. We have missed our Spanish friends. The Spanish garden. Oh. And of course the food. Ok. The weather as well.

Hello. It’s been a while

But yes. In the words of Peter Paul & Mary we were leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when we”ll be back again. There was some truth in that. We do have return flights. Two. With the current Government travel rules we arrive into Spain between two travel updates. So we have booked an emergency return in case Spain goes red. As I sit writing this the update we expected yesterday has not materialised. Nor has it been announced today. So the emergency flight has been cancelled and we have even more vouchers to paper our walls with. Or maybe a refund. I have lost the plot.

To be fair we have some idea of when we will be back and forth for the next 10 months. Brexit and the departure from the EU means we now have to count our days ~ not just in Spain but in any Schengen country that we visit. We need to be aware of not overstaying our welcome of 90 days in any 180. For the first time our passports were stamped by border control as we entreated Spain. I have found an app ( isn’t there one for everything) to record them.

But ~ another but. . We are back. Travel is different now with airport checks are all done on line. Forms to fill in. COVID status to upload. Spanish entry forms to be completed. I even had to tell Ian the address to put on the form. Our Spanish address. We don’t get post delivered in the Campo so we rarely have to give our address. It goes to a mail box in town So t’s easy to forget your address. Isn’t it. Our original flights cancelled. Rebooked to London City which to be fair is our airport of choice. Everyone masked and I didn’t leave my seat for 2-5 hrs. And yes. I was wearing pretty attractive flight socks. But not with shorts and sandals.

I felt a tear as we circled Malaga and landed. I had desperately wanted to come but didn’t want to travel and get caught in Spain nor did I want to quarantine in a hotel prison if Spain became red. If I’m going to spend £3k plus on a hotel for 10 days it’s going to be one of my choice and not one where I only have room service; no pool and no company other than Ian. Sorry. Ian. But we would have killed each other.

Welcome home

Eternal Summer. It certainly was an eternal something. But the feeling of walking through the gates was one of joy. I loved the garden the first time I saw it. But I hadn’t seen it in a year other than a few videos and photographs sent by our friends who had watered the garden and checked the house. Trust me I’ll be forever thankful for good friends and neighbours. In times of a pandemic they are invaluable.

Through the gate

Behind the gates the lovely curved path was welcoming. The garden had been cleared. We knew that as when we pulled up into the drive there were 4 large dumpy bags ready to be taken away. We had lost things. The lavender path had struggled for the last two years. I had replanted it but still it struggled. So most of the lavender had gone. The gaura cut back or three feet tall. It was either one or the other. But to be honest. I was happy just to be home.

Up the garden path

The house had been opened regularly. Aired. The bed linen taken to the laundry and was back on the bed. Clean. Ironed. There was milk and orange juice in the fridge. Bread. Cheese. Biscuits. A welcome pack from the neighbours. Have I said good neighbours are invaluable. Well I will say it again. And again. Because they are.

Slowly I started to put things out. The garden furniture. The cushions. The umbrellas. Just to make it feel like we were home fo a while. Pots moved around. Oh. And washing done. Endless washing but only during the cheap times. One other thing that has changed in the last 12 months. Electricity prices in Spain. Wholesale prices increased by something like 250%! Timers changed to the cheap periods. If you can work them out.

The garden coming back to life

Many plants had fared better than others. There is very little colour at the moment. A bit of purple of the Durante repens. The scent of the white jasmine. A lilac of the ruella. But the heat has been hideous. Apparently ~ how would I know. We hadn’t been there in a year. I’m not sure if I’d mentioned it.

Take a seat. A break on la rampa

This is new in town and says it all and it is very true. Halfway up La Rampa where I’m still overtaken by people twice my age and who don’t need an asthma mask and a sit down when they get to the top. I’d like to say my fitness regime in the various lockdowns had given me the body of a Greek god. Sorry. It’s more like an Indian Buddha. There’s always next year.

Evening visors to Plaza Almijara

This was one of the first views we saw on Plaza Almijara four and a half years ago. It was an omen. This was the welcome sight on our return as we sat at Casa Paco eating chuletas and chocolate mousse. Not together obviously. But an old favourite. Being told off in the restaurant to speak Spanish. The thing is being away has meant my Spanish has stalled. Well to be honest it’s gone into reverse whilst Ian’s progressed hugely. But it was right. I must get back to at least trying to put a sentence together. Even if I make mistakes.

Just another sunset

Another thing I’ve missed. Sunsets. The view from the terrace as the sun goes down is a treat. At this time of the year they can be spectacular. But so can the mists. But I will never tire of the sunsets.

We have ventured out to eat. A lot to be honest. We have eaten out more in the first week than we have probably eaten in the last 6 months. Not surprising really when a lot of restaurants in the UK have been closed for months and are now struggling to get staff. Chefs are as rare as hens teeth at the moment. Maybe I’ll restrain. Maybe I won’t. Have I mentioned I retired. Early. One month short of 6 years ago. Not even lockdown made me want to return.

Competa by night

‘ Why are we stopping here’ says Ian. So I can take a photo. “How many more photos do you need from the same spot” He replied. .I haven’t taken one from here in over a year” So I can. The view of the pueblo Blanco taken from the viewing point on our way home from a night out. That sounds more exciting and later than it is. We’d been out to eat. But the food as ever was fab it may have been at El Pilon. At Cortijo Paco. At Casa Paco. We have been to them all.

Coffee at Casa Paco
Cortiijo Paco
El Pilon

The wearing of masks is still a thing here. Much more evident than back in the UK. In shops. In restaurants. People of all ages. To be honest I’m happy to continue to wear a mask indefinetly. ~ at least no one can see me sighing oh no. Not again. Or swearing. Or pulling faces. My worry is that I’ll forget when I’m not wearing one and get caught out. Like last week when

I was wittering on about some nonsense or other and Ian was thinking to himself ‘FFS shut up’ except he wasn’t. He actually said it out loud and was then horrified. It was hilarious. To be fair ~ I would have told me too.

It’s been great to see friends. Visit our favourite restaurants. Our favourite shops. To be welcomed back. Some things haven’t changed. The warm welcome. The great food. The wiggly and windy roads. The mozzies. . Gawd they are truly awful this year. You could draw pictures on the dot to dots on my legs after the first day.

We have been lucky having the house checked whilst we have been absent. A few things to do. Bulbs replaced around the pool. A few bulbs gone indoors. On the mention that I had to get new bulbs Ian’s reply was ‘ we have only been here 5 minutes and your on about ordering bulbs’ Wrong type Ian. Light bulbs~ but thanks for the reminder. That’s now on my list.

The hedge needs a cut. A job I gave decided to retire from as it’s a job I hate. It’s not an easy cut. Ok from one side but not great from the other. The cutting has been arranged as has the clearing of the roundabout that’s not a roundabout as well as the bank behind the house. There have been significant fires in Andalusia this last week which have spread far and wide and have lasted for days. . The summer has been dry and it is a worry when there is dry ground around the house which has two years growth.

Bulbs sorted

But now we are on holiday. Yes. A holiday. I can hear you say but you’ve gone to Spain on holiday. For the last 10 days we have been sorting out a 12 month abcence. We have been washing clothes and linens. Sorting out the clothes cupboards. Dusting. Gardening. Rearranging pots. Ian had said that our trips should also include trips out of Competa ~ there is so much to see and explore. Spain has so many possibilities. This time It’s a three day trip to the Granada province. Just an hour and a half away to stay in Moclin a small town even higher in altitude than Competa. More windy and wiggly roads to conquer. Plenty more photo opportunities.

Next week is busy. Grabbing coffee with Niki & Paul from Competa Escapes They have two , soon to be three ( one in renovation) gorgeous rental properties in Competa. Have a look if you plan a visit to Andalucia. Supper with Sergio & Juanco from SF Properties who sold us la Casa. A well needed visit to see Ruth at Happy Feet Can you guess why.? These poor old trotters haven’t been sorted in a year. I need Ruth to work her magic. Lunch with friends who arrive on Monday. Add to that the work I still need to do in the garden it will be a busy old week. Oh. I forgot. I need to go and see Lorraine at https://www.viverosflorena.com You can never have too many plants.

Feet not authors own – from a Hobbit in New Zealand !

Then it’s a flight back to Blighty. To have our passport stamped on leaving. To enter the days in or Schengen calculator and count the days to our next visit. No Peter Paul & Mary here. I do know when I’ll be back again. I can tell you. It’s 21 days. If you are really interested I can tell you up to July 2022. Give or take a few weeks.

To be continued.
Posted on by happyretiredblog · 7 Comments

8 Weeks later

I can’t quite believe it’s been eight weeks since I arrived in Spain. After six months of being away from the Pueblo Blanco and the garden. When we bought La Casa we said we wouldn’t be here in August because of the heat, we did in 2017 as friends wanted to come and visit. 2017 was fine. 2020 was not. I like the sun. I like the heat. But to be honest there is heat and there’s heat. This year also meant that every time I stepped out of the gate on went a face mask. In extreme heat. Some people may look good. Hot. Sweaty. Posed. Me. Well I don’t look good at all. Try walking up la Rampa in late 30* heat. If I looked any way decent at the bottom ( of the Rampa ) I sure didn’t at the top.

But 2020,is no normal year. I arrived on an air bridge which two weeks later was taken away. There is no certainty in travelling this year at all.

Competa

It’s been a funny eight weeks. Five of them on my own until Ian arrived although there was,morning coffee and supper with the neighbours and supper in town with friends. I was there to garden ~ but try gardening in that heat. Watering at midnight or at 6am in the dark, trust me it’s not easy. When we moved in there were pick axes lined up in the garage. I thought. Hi ho hi oh it’s off to work we go. I now know why they are there. Outside the rainy period which is brief but often pretty heavy the ground is as dry and as hard as cement! Planting is nigh impossible. And you know when you read ” drought tolerant ” but really your looking for desert plants. This year well it’s been that.

I read my book constantly these days before buying anything. And take advice from the author who owns the garden centre just outside town. Back in February I bought a Colocasia mojito just as I was leaving. I asked if she would keep it in the poly tunnel until I was back in a month after returning from Mexico. She kindly agreed. Six months later it was delivered! She’d looked after it for us.

It wasn’t all sunning myself. Topping up my tan. It was none of that. Afternoons in an air conditioned room watching Netflix. With an occasional 15 minutes into the garden and then back inside. To lie down in a cold room. And I’m not joking. But I did manage to fill a skip. We had had the jacaranda cut back in March and the cuttings and branches had been left in the drive. There was an idea of cutting them up for the wood burner. That idea soon went out of the window. It was hard enough filing the skip before 8am and after 10pm. I wasn’t going to cut up wood as well.

Before anyone tells me. I know I shouldn’t have cut things back in that heat. But nothing had been cut in 6 months. Salvia were leggy ( I didn’t cut them). The gaura were leggy. ( they had been cut ) partly by someone who had been going in once a week to check the plants. But the Australian wisteria had gone bonkers and needed to be cut back from the gate. Some of the oleander were not only running away with themselves but with everything else. The yellow jasmine on the drive had gone bonkers. So I pruned. A little. ( lies. It was. A lot) on the basis that when I return to the UK who knows when I will be back.

Things needed repotting. The two ferns in front of the garage were by the pool. They had grown so large one had broken its pot so we had to re pot them. We bought the new pots ~ and I remembered not to ask the stupid question I asked in year 1. ” Are they frost feee”. But of course they were too big to go by the pool so 2.5/bags of compost each and they were placed in front of the garage. I don’t know why but the ferns gave f bonkers this Spring and Summer.

Having tidied the garage and kitchen beds and tidied the path it’s good for another few months.

I’ve had to remove one or two of the giant leaves off the Strelitzia Nicolai as you risked being smacked in the face as you came into the garden. I removed probably ten yucca shoots to give a bit more air and light from near to the gate and planted a few more gaura which have become my favourite plant this year. Inspired by a friends garden in Essex who has a gorgeous path planted with gaura I decided to plant some mixed with lavender along this path. The lavender was great for the first two summers but I replaced most of it as it had become too woody. Some has been fine. Some hasn’t. But the gaura has been gorgeous. Like little white butterflies hovering.

Gorgeous gaura

White gaura on the path. Red in the beds. Hopefully I will be able to cut them back properly and at the right time to get an even better display next year.

Salvia Oxyphora

I’d waited nearly 6 weeks for the flowers of the Salvia oxyphora to appear. The plant needed to have been cut back a bit but it was too late to do it this year. So the plant is tall and leggy ~ unlike me ~ but it was worth the wait for the lovely flowers.

The oleander has gone over earlier this year. There is still some flower about but a number of the plants have already started to form their magnificent seed pods. Long and thin they open up,as they ripen with fabulous furry seeds inside. I have cut a number of them off before they throw their seeds around the garden. Oh and thanks to everyone that reminded me. All parts of the oleander are poisonous. But then again so are so many of the plants in this garden.

Oleander seed heads

We have some pretty large agave on the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. I don’t want them to flower as soon as they do the large plant dies and I’m happy to look at other peoples plants flowering! These are spiteful devils. I’m sure they move when you are near and spike you given the chance.

Massive Agave

We seems to have been lucky this year. No nasty little processionary caterpillars on the three pine trees on the bank. They really are nasty little blighters and we get someone in to remove them as soon as we see the tell tale white nests in the trees. Dangerous to young children and to dogs. The caterpillars. Not the people we get in.

The garden still has some colour and interests which is surprising as it’s been so hot for so long and without rain. The flowers of the. Have returned. The gorgeous leaves of the nispero or loquat are standing high. The black aeonium is looking good but let’s not linger ba on the one dahlia flower. The smallest dahlia I have ever seen. Come late September and October the garden will get its second wind. The osteospermum will be back in flower as will the salvias.

There has been fruit. As well as the almonds. I haven’t picked the almonds this year. I didn’t want to venture into the area where we have them as it had not been strimmed and the dried grass and wildflowers are scratchy and itchy. Call me what you like.

But to be fair I have last years and the years before In the cupboard. We have grapes which have been picked. All 3 kilos and frozen. Who freezes grapes? Me. So I can make grape and rosemary jelly when I have time. It works. Back in February I picked the windfall lemons from next door ( with permission as Laura will read this) and sliced and juiced them for the freezer.

Waste not want not. This year I made more limoncello. That too is in the freezer. Along with the juice in ice cube bags! The figs were poor again. Well I suspect they’ve been and gone but there were a few. The pineapple guava is just getting the fruit. I don’t mind missing them. They are ok. Ish. But a friend described them as tasting like germolene. I think that’s a bit harsh. But as I hate the smell of gerolene and TCP I try and avoid both.

Now I know I have moaned about the heat and to be fair I went down the mountain only once when I was on my own. Not because I was scared but because it was too hot and I was too lazy. But when Ian arrived he was more encouraging about getting out and about. As long as I was driving.

Twenty minutes drive down the mountain is Caleta de Vélez a marina and the main fishing port for the Malaga region. We usually eat at El Camarote with views over the marina and fabulous fish. Then a walk along the promenade toward Algarrobo. I love watching the fisherman lay out the nets and sew them to repair any breaks.

Oh. And the food is delicious.

Caleta de Vélez

One of the other places we usually take a drive to is down the other road. We have the windey and wiggly. People have their favourites. But we always head to Nerja. For a walk along the Balcón de Europe. I was surprised just how quiet it was this year. I know that we are in the middle of a pandemic but it’s did take me back. The little beach with the old fisherman’s cottage on the beach itself was being monitored. One person off. One person on. That’s social distancing etiquette for you.

Nerja

No visit would be the same without eating out either in the plaza Almijara which I did numerous times at my favourite Casa Paco. Where my dietary requirements are well known. Where the fabulous staff can order direct for me.

Or to El PIlon to see my friends Dani & Loli.

Mi amigos. Dani & Loli y El PIlon

Masks. Let’s talk masks. In Spain it was second nature. Leave the house. Teeth. Keys. Wallet. Mask. To be worn outside the house ( not in the garden obviously);whenever you went out. In the car if you were travelling with another household. In the shops. In the streets. And everyone complied. You rarely saw anyone that didn’t.

So we have made the best of our visit. The thought of quarantine doesn’t fill me with joy. But rules are rules and we will comply. 14 days is a small price to pay for 8 weeks in paradise.

Who knows when we will return.