Hola Madrid

Another adventure. This time Madrid. We were last there in 2016 and I remember bits.

Like a Harry Potter look a like and a large Spider-Man in the Plaza Mayor.

Before you comment. No. It’s not me in the spider man outfit. But my memory is hazy regarding the galleries or museums.

Entertainment

Plaza Mayor

Madrid terminal 4 is massive. Add in 4S and it’s bloody massive. Add a journey from 4S to terminal 4 by mini train to passport control up and up the escalators and out to meet our pre booked Uber which never arrives. Typical help from them ~ the discussion was like going round in circle’s for days.

A great start for me and the dodgy legs and back but I managed to get to the public taxi rank where they saw my walking stick and pushed us through. Not literally obviously but I wouldn’t have minded if it meant I could get to sit down.

A 20 minute taxi ride to the hotel through a myriad of small one way streets. Which makes me happy I’m not driving.

Hotel reception

For this trip it was a hotel stay. A birthday trip for Ian and all booked and planned by him. A man who likes little fuss for any day let alone a birthday. A house party in France in 2005. A trip to Paris in 2015 and it had to be Spain this year. He does have other birthdays as well.

A fabulous reception area to check in and some of the best staff I have encountered in a long time. You don’t get this in our usual Airbnb.

The lift

I had heard that the lifts on one side of the hotel were like mini libraries and indeed they didn’t disappoint. Stuffed with books. It was so beautiful, yet I’m not sure if anyone actually managed to prise a book out to actually read.

Tiled lift doors

On the other side of the reception area was a beautiful tiled wall with the lift doors tiled too. The attention to detail was brilliant.

Side street

The streets are so narrow in the old town. One way. Prone to traffic jams ~ but easy to hail a taxi, and noisy at night.

Side streets

A long walk through the city and at one point Ian was saying his usual mantra. Put your camera away. And put your phone in your pocket. Like every city in the world you are only a few streets away from one you don’t really want to walk through. Not the one above but we were quite close.

Best form of transport

Before we left we watched the Michael Portillo series on weekends away on Channel 5. He’d visited Madrid and there were a few places he had suggested which caught our eye. Of course as soon as he mentioned the best place for Churro I made a note. I’m a bit partial to them, usually with sugar but when in Madrid ….


CHOCOLATERÍA SAN GINÉS

The place had a two queques. One for outside. One for inside. I am not a natural queuer but I hadn’t searched this place out not to partake. We did and we over ordered. The first time ever I have left churros on a plate.

The chocolate was thick and dark and coated the churros perfectly. You can see why it’s still going ~ first opened in 1894.

Churros and chocolate

Chocolate ~ yes please

Day 1 was a visit to The Reina Sofía a museum of 20th century and contemporary art.

Where the Goya the Picasso and Dali were plentiful, as were the visitors. But generally you could get to see the paintings without being bruised by the elbows of over enthusiastic visitors vying for the best place to take photos. Unlike the royal palace later in the week.

Enter the galleries.
Party time
Viewing the Guernica by Picasso

We were told to go and see the Guernica at this museum and Goya’s black paintings at The Prado. We did both.

The Guernica was obviously the highlight for many people here. There was always a mass of visitors snapping away. Me included.

Picasso

Maruja Mallo, The Fair ( La verbena),

I have to say I hadn’t heard of Mallo but I liked what I saw. A lot.

Salvador Dalí

I can’t get my head around some of Dali’s paintings. They often intrigue me but the title of this one intrigued me more.

‘The Great Masturbator’

Salvador Dalí

Another one I liked but at first I missed the blood ~ Man with Wounded head.

Salvador Dalí

Woman at the window ~ very simple and understated.

Portrait of Paul Éluard

I think I was Dali’d out by the end of the visit. Other artists were available.

The royal palace

We have seen so many palaces on city vacations that often they merge into one.

We visited this in 2015 but I recall very little. Unusually Ian booked a guided tour which you be honest I was grateful for as we often skipped the queues.

Portrait of the Royal family

Painted years before the old King abdicated.

King’s crown

Apparently not worn on the king’s head but sits on the chair next to him when needed for ceremonial duties. Sensible really ~ imagine the itch you’d get. I do by just wearing a beanie.

The stairway

Two sides to the stairway – originally reserved for the men to the left and the women to the right. Or the other way around but whatever it was it was separate sides.

For the business of tourists it was up one side and down the other. Unless you were posing for photographs like a fashion model tossing your hair and pouting. And that was just the men. Then getting miffed when people actually wanted to ascend or descend. I am still amazed how many people still only see the views from their camera as they take a selfie.

Thrones

A bit formal for the cottage but the upright backs may be good for my dodgy back.

All that glitters

Like all great palaces all that glitter is probably gold leaf. Stunning ceilings, and notan cobweb on sight and no broken light bulbs.

A bit of crystal

Not an Ikea shade to be found. Beautiful huge crystal chandeliers ~ which always make me think of the scene from Only Fools & horses.

Drapes

They certainly don’t have a moth problem. The stunning silk drapes with covers to keep the tourists from touching the silk look in perfect order. Live in London and you know a thing or two about moths. Trust me.

Gilded mirrors

You won’t find one of these at a French Brocante. Mirrors upon mirrors, beautiful shapes and huge.

Set for an intimate dinner!

I mentioned the elbow dodging earlier. This was a classic photo opportunity for some. It’s a dining table. Not a famous Stradivarius as in the next room. But I was nearly pushed into the next room by the same man who was desperate to get a photo on the stairs

If asked I would have willing obliged. As I made sure I did for the rest of the tour I made sure I was just in view of his shot ~?but just out of elbow reach. Wanted or not.

Stradivarius
Parque de El Retiro

I remember this one. Especially the boating lake.

From the Welcoms to Madrid website –

Covering over 125 hectares and comprising more than 15,000 trees, El Retiro Park–recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site–is a green oasis in the heart of the city’

Certainly a breath of fresh air and a lovely walk away from the hustle and bustle.

Some of the 15,000 trees

The highlight of the trip other than Ian’s birthday obviously was the visit to the museo de Prado

A highlight as the building is fabulous. The art is stunning. The museum is large light and airy. Groups of well behaved school children of all ages with pencils and notebooks ~ a joy to see art appreciation being encouraged so young.

The disappointment. No photos. I get it but I like to snap and read about the ones I really like later. The Picasso black paintings for example. A bit too dark in content for me but interesting.

You need more than a day and very comfortable shoes < the collection is vast.

I’m now returned all full of the three C’s. Culture. Churros and Covid

Ian is happy he has been able to use his Spanish and he did. His conversations with the taxi drivers were the best and a joy to hear. My Spanglish didn’t compare.

Hello again. Hola!

Growing up August was family holiday time. In Wales the first two weeks in August was traditionally holiday fortnight. Though it may have been the last week of July and the first week of August ~ also known as miners fortnight when the mines closed down completely and the pit ponies were put out to grass for their summer holidays. Factories closed down as well. Generally growing up that was when we took the family holiday.

Now I’m retired every week is a holiday. Well. A holiday of sorts.

Hauser & Wirth

It’s been a funny old summer. We haven’t travelled very far, with both of us recuperating from various health issues.

I haven’t been hugely mobile which has been annoyingly restrictive and has meant no overseas trips. That is until now. To be fair trips have largely been limited to hospital, consultant , physio and chiropractor. Don’t even ask about A&E.

It’s been over 3 months since we were last in Spain. For months I’ve been in pain from a prolapse disc and walking hasn’t been easy. And despite my vanity I succumbed to a walking stick. Of course it had to be a flowery one.

The consultant and the physio said that they were surprised I wasn’t in more pain. Ha. More pain. Whilst the pain has now subsided to an manageable level, I had to tell them that was enough. So it’s been a mad old summer. And one we missed in Spain.

Not that I wouldn’t have been complaining if we had been able to travel. The heat here has been hideous ~ and there have been enough people complaining.

But we are back. It’s September.

As Tom said ‘ the old town looks the same ‘ but it has changed a bit. The roundabout that’s actually a roundabout has had structures and a water feature added and a welcome to Competa sign.

There’s been a fake house put up where I believe the donkey will be placed. Not a real one. The real one is on the other side of the valley. Braying daily. ( the donkey has in fact now returned)

Pueblo Blanco Competa

Welcome home

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. I bloody love this place. I still get that buzz of excitement when I arrive at the gate. Still grumble ‘ which key is it’ on the set of jail size keychain. Still think that path needs a sweep.

Up the garden path

The windey path does need a sweep but the plants look like they have survived remarkably well during the heat wave.

Yes. They do get a bit of water but not from the irrigation system which has been turned off. Friends check the house and water for us amongst a whole raft of other things. We would be lost without them.

Back to the irrigation – A tree rat ~ like a squirel ~ chewed one of the plastic pipes in the garden and bearing in mind the irrigation came on only for a very short time at night it resulted in us having a hideous water bill.

More for one quarter than we pay in 3/4 years ~ total.

The gardener knew we were arriving and had been in and had cut the hedge. Had shaped the olive tree and had cut the roundabout that’s not a roundabout as well as the rear banks. None of which I am safe to do these days. I’d end up rolling down the hill to the main road and beyond. Not a pretty sight. Me. Not the banks as they look great.

The roundabout that’s not a roundabout
The roundabout that’s not

Can I just say the gardener isn’t in daily or weekly and does the jobs I can’t. His knowledge is brilliant and he knows the plants that should and will grow well.

When we moved in the path was a stunning lavender path which was coming to the end of its days. I tried hard to keep it but it had had its day. The problem was that it hadn’t been cut back regularly and you can’t cut back into old wood. Though I tried.

I replanted. It didn’t work so I’ve planted grasses along with creeping rosemary which is fantastic. Thanks to seeing posts from Pepperpot herbs who sell it in the Uk and from whom I have bought some for Somerset.

Rosemary and grasses
Down the garden path

A few years ago I asked for the olive tree to be pruned. When asked whether I wanted it pruned for olives or looks I said both. Which whilst typical for me it was the wrong answer. It could be one or the other.

We did get a decent crop of olives which when black I would pick, prick and dry salt them. That’s if we were here ~ and it’s a tedious job.

Otherwise they would just drop and make a mess. So shape it was.

Olives and curry

Topiary olive tree

Am I happy. You bet I am. It’s now really taking shape. Pun intended.

Curry topiary

You can now get a strong whiff of curry as you walk up the path past the olive tree. I planted three curry plants under the olive in the raised circular bed and have quickly tidied them up ~ but my attempt at topiary is rough. Just don’t ask me to trim your hair.

There’s obviously been a bit of calima ~ winds and red dust blown over the tables and chairs. Adds ‘ a clean’ to my list.

The agapanthus are over and the seed heads heavy. Some have seed heads. Some don’t. I’m sure someone will tell me why.

Just like the oleander. Some have spectacular long seed heads which when open are fluffy. That’s the correct technical term. Right?

Oleander seed heads
Foxtail agave

I love the foxtail agave which I’ve mentioned once or twice before. It’s a plant that keeps on giving. Young plants have grown alongside which have been replanted elsewhere in the garden. Once the agave flowers the plant dies. This one is over ten years old and I’m hoping it doesn’t flower.

Plumeria

The plumeria/frangipani has flowered well again, I know I haven’t been here but I get photos of what’s flowering. Both are still in flower. . The yellow has a better scent ~ as long as you stick your nose up close. But the colours zing.

Yellow plumeria
Stephanotis

I smile when I look at many of the plants growing in the garden. This is one of them and I have grown it as an indoor plant. The waxy white flowers of the stephanotis. Not enough flowers for a bridal bouquet so Ian fear not. It’s in a large pot, a bit woody but has been flowering for over 8 years. Not continually obviously.

Another plant growing outside is a Swiss cheese plant. In Olden days – my childhood – popular indoor plants included the rubber plant , the Swiss cheese plant and a purple tradescantia. We have the latter two growing in the Mediterranean garden in Cómpeta. I never liked them indoors but they are tolerated in the garden. Unlike the clivia which was an indoor plant in my office which I loved in a pot so I and am happy to have a dozen in the gate bed.

Jasmine sambac

We have 4 different jasmine dotted around the garden. This one is sambac ~ highly scented and one that is used in perfume and tea ~ an evergreen which is grown in a large pot. We also have jasmine azoricum ~ a lemon scented jasmine rambling over some black railings. It is a bit woody but a great scent. There’s a scraggy white one which I’m not sure of its name but it springs up everywhere.

One that’s in so many gardens here and in the uk ~ the star jasmine the one I can’t spell without copying it. Trachelospermum jasminoides which is ok in this garden but not a mad grower.

I’d forgotten the yellow winter jasmine which grows like fury. But it is a harsh yellow with no scent. I know. I want everything. Colour. Shape perpetual flowing and importantly scent. Fickle. Me. Yes.

I have seen a really lovely yellow with much larger flowers growing furiously down a wall in the village. I might borrow a cutting next time I pass.

Aeonium

This aeoniun was a broken limb from one I have in a pot. Shoved in the ground hoping for the best and ignored. It has, along with a few others taken off. It always reminds me of aliens. I have no idea why.

Grewia
Grewia

I’d forgotten about this. Planted in what I call mozzie avenue at the side of the house it’s another straggly plant but has such a beautiful flower. I had to recheck it’s name.~ Grewia occidentalis a shrubby plant that can be grown as a shrub or a small tree. Really pretty purple flowers. My friend Google tells me it beats fruits and it’s common name is Cross berry. Who knew? I didn’t. I’m shallow. I just liked its look.

Mozzie alley

Heaven
Competa sunsets
Plaza almijara

I’d like to say that’s it’s not all been gardening or house stuff. Or paying bills.

But unusually we haven’t been off the mountain the whole time we have been this visit.

Am I complaining. Never. It’s been lovely catching up with our Spanish friends and catching up on the news of the last 3 months. It won’t be as long until the next trip. Dates and Tickets booked.

But first is a visit to Madrid.

Back home to Somerset to a log fire, long trousers and no mozzies.

Competa

Step by step.

Looking back at lockdowns I can say that the best thing that came out of them was walking. Living in London meant we became lazy. We drove to the supermarket. We drove around the corner to the local shops. We drove into central London. Or we got on a buss.

Lockdown meant we couldn’t go that far. We needed to get out and about for fresh air. Not to say that after living together for over 30’years to be suddenly together 24/7 didn’t give us problems. We weren’t used to it. People asked how have you stayed together for so long. Our reply was often separate houses helped and in later years. Separate countries!

But waking became second nature. We hardly lived the car. We walked to the shops. Shopped local. Daily. We walked to various local parks ~ some of which we had never been to previously.

The good thing is that we have kept it up. We walk far more than we ever have. This weekend admittedly we took the overground to Wapping but then a walk around. Which is a double pleasure for me. I’m back taking more and more photographs.

We were early for haircuts and had time for a wander. Down the algae green steps to the beach.

Right. To the banks of the River Thames when the ride was out. Or was it coming in. Whichever way we couldn’t walk down river to the steps by the Prospect of Whitby. You get some great vows of Canary Wharf from the river bank.

When I started working at Canary Wharf decades ago not one of those high tide buildings were there. We the first firm in the edge of the Wharf and we watched the buildings rise up whilst our coffee cups were bouncing around the desks as there pile driving went on. And on. The demolition of the old Limehouse studios. The arrival of the Docklands light railway ~ the driverless trains.

Along the river edge are the buildings. These days expensive apartments rise high where the warehouses were. Whilst underneath you can see the huge wooden frameworks all covered in slimy green algae.

The sand underneath was perfectly clear until I decided to walk along whilst Ian took a call by the river.

The river was low but we could t hi fat down stream and not knowing where we would get out of we headed up stream it was a good idea to leave as we arrived.

Just after the big jutting out is the Prospect of Whitby.

There is always graffiti somewhere. And no I am not childish. ( I am). Sorry. Not sorry.

The stairs were steep. Green and slimy and quite deep and of course Ian is 10 feet ahead.

We then headed to Shadwell Basin. A bit of water surrounded by houses and where there is a canoe school. Great views from the basin as you look up towards The City of London. Yet another view.

We had another view the day before when I went up to Blackfriars to meet Ian. I love the 20 mph sign which is driving a lot of people crazy. Me included. I can’t remember the last time you could go more than 20mph anyway on central London.

Borough Market is fantastic for foodies. Whether you are buying or eating. But why did we walk there on a Saturday when we can walk there any day of the week. First a walk up the elephant and around the castle which if you haven’t been for a while it’s unrecognisable. The pink elephant shopping centre has been demolished and building is well underway for the new incarnation. New apartments abound around great green spaces of elephant park. Yes. With elephant sculptures. So far I have resisted sitting in the back of one of them. I did once in India. Sit on the back of an elephant. Never ever again. Plus there are signs here telling you you can’t.

It’s a good watering hole on the way to London Bridge for us. Ian likes to practice his Spanish at the Colombian cafe that serves fabulous coffee. Great Cake. And pastries.

Last time we had a long conversation with the owner who is from Bogata but has travelled more than us in the Uk. She has been to parts of Scotland that are in our ever increasing wish list.

Fed. Watered. And Spanish practice done it’s off to Borough Market. It must be the first time ever I have been and yet bought nothing. It was far too busy. Expected for a Saturday but there were queues for Oysters. Queues for paella. Queues for everything. So we skirted the market to walk the Thames Path. Heading down towards Tower Bridge.

A walk past Southwark Cathedral (nice cafe and a nice garden) down through what I think are newly opened walkways. Through Dirty Lane. It wasn’t. It was very clean. Very bright. Lots of small shops waiting to be opened.

Past the Clink Museum.

The original prison was opened in 1144 ~ so a bit before my time. I wondered where the term to be ‘thrown in the clink’ came from and this is an explanation from the Museums website.

‘ The name ‘Clink’ seems to have been attached to the prison in the 14th century. One of the most commonly-argued derivatives is that of the sound of the blacksmith’s hammer closing the irons around the wrists or ankles of the prisoners, although the Flemish word ‘klink’ meaning ‘latch’ (perhaps referring to the latch on the gaol door) could also have influenced its attachment. Whatever the etymology, the prison subsequently bequeathed this name to all others, resulting in the development of the expression, “to be thrown in The Clink.” ‘

The Golden Hind is in a dry dock and is currently going through a renovation using fallen oak. The ship i was a galleon captained by Francis Drake in his circumnavigation of the world between 1577 and 1580. Yes. I pinched this from their website as big words like circumnavigation is so not me. Keep it short and simple. And before you say it ..,.

But the Golden Hind I remember is a pub I once worked in occasionally in Wales.

As you’d expect there are plenty of boats and ships on the river. I must look up the difference for when a boat is a boat and not a ship. This is one of the fabulous sail boats moored just off the south bank.

I am not sure what this boat is. I’ll look next time I walk past. Some paddle boat.

The Thames beast. A large speedboat with a 40 min trip from tower pier down to the 02 and back with some fast turns. I’ll stick to the Thames River bus thank you. A more leisurely trip up the river which I used for travel to work. Great to sit outside on a dry day. Even more fun on a wet and windy one. Ans you could gat a drink on the way home.

Views across the River Thames from the south bank. These have all sprung up in the City of London since I first arrived 4 decades ago. But I still get a feeling of excitement wandering around. The buildings have names like the Walkie talkie ( a giant 80’s mobile phone) . The Gherkin.

The cheese grater.( The nickname came from the City of London Corporation’s chief planning officer. When he first saw the model of the building, he told the architect that ‘he could imagine his wife using it to grate parmesan’.)

On the other side the shard. ( said to look like a shard of glass)

The old and the new. HMS Belfast permanently moored on the Thames and is now a visitor attraction. This week an active serving vessel is moored alongside. A new addition this year to the fleet ~ The Multi Purpose Offshore Vessel RFA Proteus is alongside the Belfast just for a few days. Better viewed down the other bank ! Before it leaves.

A walk past the old City Hall building down toward Tower bridge. The building is currently undergoing renovation after housing the GLA ~ it’s new purpose unknown. The building is Daisy I look like a giant motorcycle helmet.

Ice cream sellers and rugby fans watching the game on a large screen in the amphitheatre below.

I still love seeing the bridge open. Well not if I’m stuck in traffic on the bridge waiting to cross. It’s a slow old process. Everything is slow across the bridge. Even traffic. Except the one Saturday morning I drove across at 8am and got caught speeding. I was doing 23 miles an hour. The one and only time you could go more than 10pm over it. It was definitely me driving. The photo was clear. We were arguing. I was driving.

Another view of the buildings of business with The Tower of London in its shadows. I’m embarrassed to say the tower is one place I haven’t visited. Well not inside. I’ve often walked around the outside. Seen traitors gate from the River bus. Saw the fabulous poppies. But have never seen the Crown Jewels. Except when worn on ceremonial occasions and then only on the old telly box.

Walking away from the bridge you pass through narrow lanes which have commercial premises on the ground floors and fancy pants apartments above. On the front of the walkway are excellent restaurants and tourists posing for photos. Walkers, diners , joggers.

Many of these buildings would have been working warehouses with the cargo ships loading and unloading alongside. Now they have the best balconies and views of the river. If you are riverside obviously. . Otherwise it’s great views of other apartments.

Many of the riverside apartments and the walkways here have banners saying ‘No Oceandiva’ ~ which is a petition against the planned party boat berthing on the Thames. A boat built 3 storeys high. Holds 1500!partygoers. I’d have a petition too.

Just beyond Tower bridge are a number of houseboats moored at the surprisingly named ‘Tower Bridge moorings ‘ t

It has an interesting history with many of the barges having gardens which open for the National Garden Scheme. The gardens are now as Garden Barge Square .

It was a long circular walk back through Bermondsey and a day of nearly 20,000 steps but it’s a great way to see the bits of history over and over again. There’s always something new to see. But for now these little legs need s rest.

Didn’t we have a lovely time. Porto.

It wasn’t a great start. Let’s talk about airports. You like some. You don’t like others. For us London City is the best although things there are changing. Easy to get to for us. Quick. Convenient and small. Although it’s getting busier. Then there’s Gatwick. A bit further away but easy to get to. Both always by public transport. Have you seen the price of parking at an airport. Especially London City. But let’s talk Heathrow. We always try to avoid it. Busy. Used to be difficult to get to so that was always our excuse. But now the Elizabeth line is open it’s another easy option. But that’s it’s only plus for me. We avoid it as much as we can.

But flights to Porto and timings meant we had to use it. Terminal 5. Designed by the Richard Rogers Parrnership there’s no doubt it’s impressive. Designed to handle 38 million passsengwrs i doubt it was meant for them all to be there at once. Let’s say the travel experience was testing. Starting at security. Check in is always fine. Thank god for the ability to download your boarding pass to an app. We travel light ~ no check in suitcase ~ for travel to Casa Verano no suitcase. It’s a shame nobody told the man in front that he should have checked his case in. Too big for a carry on there was a carry on when it went through security. Sadly we were behind him. And Ian’s bag got stopped too. School boy error. his bag had moved over the liquids.

The man’s suit case was emptied. He was made to open the packages one by one. His clothes went into a pile on the right. The items to be scanned and tested to the left. Whilst we were getting irritated by the long wait the young security girl was engaging him in conversations. Why didn’t they just take him aside and tell him that it all needed to be checked in. There was no way he’s stuff that case in the overhead locker. Even the other security guys weee getting irritated.

To make matters worse inside the massive terminal at the far end of the building we were sitting charging phones and having coffeee in the lounge and guess what. He came and sat next to us. You’d be surprised. I bit my lip. He still had his suitcase.

Queues

You know that old Peter Paul and Mary song. Leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again. Well I do know when but I didn’t know when we would leave. Talk of a bum fight. I thought we were walking to Porto when the gate was announced. Then it was chaos. Theee weeks ago we were emailed. BA we’re having Finn air operate the flight. No big deal. At least it wasn’t cancelled. But at the gate passengers were told that if they were in certain boarding groups they had to put their cabin baggage in the hold as it was a small plane. This happens a lot at London city due to weather conditions and the weight on the flight. More often they have to odd load passengers. Next time they do it if I’m travelling to the casa I’ll take it. It pays for the flight and the next one in compensation. I digress. Chaos on boarding. Stuffed on buses. Driven so far I thought they’d changed the plane to a bus boarded and sat in the runway for an hour.

The upside. The staff from Finn air were delightful. So finally we took off and arrived safely in Porto. Late. But fed and ready to make our way to the Airbnb. I had no idea where. What it was like. Ian does the research on them and books it.

Arriving into Porto

Ian had booked another cracker. Close to the metro. The host was waiting there to meet us and it was a 2 minute walk to the apartment. The Porto adventure had begun. We had originally booked pre Covid and had to cancel because of travel restriction. But we had arrived and had a full itinerary to get through.

Terrace view
Terrace view

Early to bed. Early to rise. Up and out by 8.30 this morning to start the marathon walkabout of Porto. 20,500 steps later. First impressions. Excellent. People had mentioned the amount of building works. They were right. It’s huge. The amount of tourists. Again. They were right. There is a lot. But away from the crowds along the smaller side streets it’s easier. You see things that many will miss.

Usual view

The streets are narrow in the older parts of town and many of the properties are ripe for renovation. There is a huge amount of building work going on in the centre of Porto which meant a detour or two.

Drying your smalls

My brother had been here two weeks previously and had warned me of how steep the climb could be. So I’d like to say I was prepared. I wasn’t. My calves are as tight as tight can be. But as usual we walked and walked until we literally could walk no more. And then had a nata tart. A recurring feature of the trip. Portuguese tarts.

How many.

I loved these before we arrived but I ate so many on this trip with the best yet to come in Lisbon. oh. And warm they are beyond delicious.

We had walked over to the other side of the bridge. An area which held the cellars of the major port producers. The bridge gave a great view up and down stream as long as you dodged the trams. I didn’t aim to be knocked down by a tram.

Over the bridge

Helio. There’s a tram coming !

Port

All the major Port producers have their cellars and tasting rooms here. We went to Sandeman in the Drouro valley who told us that the cellar had been moved to the town out of the country as they could control the temperatures better.

Riverside Porto
In disguise

I’d like to say this is is in disguise. Me on the phone calling a cab. But it’s not. A ship was in and these two had just come off board. Obviously an ear worm came into my head. So. Just to share. In the Navy.

River watch.

I love sitting and watching people and there were more than enough people to watch. People just hanging about watching the world go by. Drinking. Eating. Laughing. I loved this person quietly watching the world go by and couldn’t resist taking a photo.

Church of Saint Ildefonso

Oh my. There are churches. Big fat gothic buildings stuffed to the rafters in glitter and gold. Talk about pomp. There’s gold on gold. . Gilded frames. Paintings. Silver and gold. The treasures of the church. Then there are the more simple ones. Still a bit fancy. Beautiful blue Portuguese tules on the outside. Lovely blue and white. We always managed to arrive just as a service was about to start. Let’s be honest they have a lot of them. Some we went in. Some we didn’t.

Tiles

I asked Ian if he thought these gates would be too much for the entrance to Casa Verano. He just rolled his eyes. I wasn’t sure if it was because I asked or because he needed sun glasses because of the glaring amount of gold. He had to have a sit down.

Look away.

I have a confession to make. McDonalds. We went in a MacDonalsa. Not to eat. Honest Guv. But we had read that when they took over this building they retained most of the interior and worked around it. A great entrance ro the restaurant. Can I call it that even ?

Yes. McDonald’s.

Would you believe it.

Just look at that interior. The glass had been kept and is now behind the servers. The chandeliers are still hanging proud. The only thing that has changed is the food. It’s still a MacDonalds

Btw city is a city of many parts. The splendour of some of its shops and buildings and then the run down building s which are still beautiful in their own way. Side by side. Or run down apartments above beautiful shops. But. There is huge developments going on. On large buildings and on a lot of the smaller ones.

Elegance

Shabby

Faded glory
Busy Porto

Friends who has also been to Porto recently had messaged and said it was busy. It was. And it wasn’t ro be fair. Like any major tourist city it was busy in parts. Let’s not talk about the queue for the Lello library. It was hideous. It looks beautiful on line and I would like to see inside. But as soon as anyone says anything about Harry Potter and a library’ the queue length trebles.

Apparently J.K. Rowling worked as an English teacher in Porto in the early 1990s while working on the first chapters of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone. The shop’s Neo-Gothic façade and majestic Art Nouveau interior with the fabulous crimson staircase are said to have inspired her depictions of both the Grand Staircase at Hogwarts, and the Flourish and Blotts book shop in Diagon Alley. I can’t say. We didn’t get to go inside. Well not this time. .

But walking down the side streets it was much quieter with the added bonus you get to see some gorgeous small shops. And avoid the crowds.

Station glass

This isn’t like our station in either Peckham Rye or Bruton. Or even the Temple of Doom. Now that’s a Harry Potter one. Harry Potter and the temple of Doom. This station has beautiful glass panels and tiles ~ they say 20.000 hand painted tiles depicting important moments of Portuguese history. I couldn’t honestly say. I didn’t count them. Oh. And plenty of tourists.

Shredded skirt

Street entertainment Porto style. Trust me it was entertainment. Bare footed hip swinging guitarist who was working his audience. Whilst swinging his hips and his fabric grass skirt. The video is funnier.

No passing place

This reminds me of a trip in Spain where I took the wrong turning. I have to say that it is one of only a few times I have ever wanted to get out of the car and leave it there. Once in Spain and once in Mew Zealand. But many of the roads in the old town are narrow. Very narrow.

Vintage tourist tram

Would I come back to Porto. Yes. It’s a lovely city and a highlight of the trip was a trip to the Drouro valley for wine and port tasting.

Viva España ~ Buenos Tardes Barcelona

You have to love a cheesey ear worm. Y viva España was one from the “70’s. I remember my mother singing along to it in the kitchen “ oh this year we are off to sunny Spain; Y Viva España’, Sorry not sorry if you remember it and you are now signing it all day. But. We are off to sunny Spain. But that’s nothing new for us really. Not these days..

Barcelona. Of course we are arrive at the airport early. We always do ~ but it’s a reminder today how little I miss commuter travel. It’s been going on 8 years since I did the commute and it’s one of the things I really don’t miss. Controversial I know but one of my pet hates are people putting on their make up on a packed overground train with arms and elbows going everywhere whilst they do it. I have never lathered my face , whipped out my razor and shaved on my commute. But as usual I digress. Enough of my irritations. There are many.

Travel brings out a lot. People stuffing cases into the overhead lockers irrespective of what’s already in there. Trying to squeeze an oversized case and not succeeding. We try to travel with as little as possible these days but it only works if we are heading up the mountain. But a 45 minute delay sitting on the tarmac doesn’t help but a good flight.

It’s been a while since we were in Barcelona. I first came 32 years PI ( pre Ian) when there was no protective circle around the Basilica and I can’t remember whether we had to pay to enter. I remember virtually climbing a wall and I am sure no roof. There is no fear of that these days. High security and arthritis stops that. And the fear I couldn’t get down.

Ian and air came here about 15 or so years ago. But then the queues were hideous and we hadn’t booked. So we didn’t go in. This time we have booked a tour guide and tickets so we are better organised. I’ll say it about this building what I always say about Stonehenge. It will be nice when it’s finished. Though this one will be.

So we are heading back tomorrow for a tour.

I’m sure these guys could tell a story or two. It looks like they are gentlemen of a certain age who will have seen the changes to the city. The amount of travellers to see thus Gaudi influence. The building. The influx of AIRBNB. But for now their concentration is on other things. Boules. And friendships.

But first the important Tapas and a walk around the Familia Sagrada to see the one light on the top which is illuminated daily with some of the stained glass lit as well. And an early night ready for three days of sightseeing.

The security and street lights are too bright to get a good idea of what it looks,like at night but Tomorrow is another day.

Another day. Another day of sightseeing carefully crafted by Ian. I just turn up and go. Today we have done it again. Dressed like twins. Almost the same and not on purpose. Both have dark jeans. I’ve got a maroon polo shirt. Him a maroon T-shirt. Both have either a navy or black round neck jumpers. Too late to change. But believe me it’s not planned.

So we made it into the Sagrada Familia. The queue was long and everyone had tickets as all tickets must be bought online. Easier for them but an issue for those still without the technology. Security checks at the door. No hats inside. No swimming costumes or short shorts. A reminder that it’s not a tourist attraction. First and foremost it’s a place of worship. Tick on all of them. A little time before we met our guide.

Ian’s first comment was that it reminded him of the set from Lord of the Rings films. Especially Rivendell the home of the elves. He should know. He’s probably watched the film a trillion times. Interesting as Gaudi’s concepts for the inside of the Sagrada Familia was one of a forest. the tree columns. I’ll have to go back and watch the film and take note.

To be fair I wasn’t expecting to have my breath taken away. By the cathedral. Not the tour guide. But the scale, the detailing and the pure majesty is breathtaking. Utterly breathtaking. So different to the previous visit. The first stone was laid in 1882, the building was consecrated by the Pope in 2010 and still remains unfinished. For now. Plans are afoot to finish it in two stages but additional time was needed due to delays with the Covid pandemic.

We don’t usually have a tour guide but this was a small group and he was amazing. Pointed out little details that we would have missed. A history of the building works and of Gaudi. Right up until his untimely death when he was knocked over by a tram.

How some of the carvings depict the architects that followed Gaudi : The faces of some of the children are Japanese. How another was finished not long before the architect died and is engraved with a C and the face is his. The architect. Not Gaudi,s.

I love the texture and shape of these stairs. To look at. When we stayed in Cordoba in 2018 the hotel we stayed in had a similar design which I loved. But I’m not a fan of using stairs like this ~ a tale of which will follow.

The light from the stained glass is stunning and changes as the light increases and decreases as the sun moves around the building.

The columns are massive and are a mix of sandstone and some red columns using imported materials from Iran ~ it’s made of porphyry. When polished they are highly shined but for the most part they are left unpolished. The acoustics from the organ is fabulous. The height of the columns immense. The design was to make it feel like a forest. The columns are the trees. And are not dead straight.

The colours from the stained glass are beautiful and very varied throughout. I love a bit of stained glass ~ to be fair I like glass. The windows have names of Saints and shrines from all over the world written on them. Not that I could read them from that distance. My eye sight may be food but not that good.

The Canopy over the altar with a brass crucifix is fabulous and very different from the figures you see outside. Look at Jesus head on this one and compare it with the one on the outside. This one is what you would expect. The one outside I feel is so amazing.

The Passion façade was built from Gaudi designed and feature Jesus, Herod and Peter amongst others depicting the crucifixion. They are i loves these figures for their stark angular shapes. Jesus head looks like a book and it said that it is to resemble the bible. These are just a few of the structures. There are so many on the building which could be a whole blog in itself.

Ian had booked a viewing from one of the towers. They are two which you can go up and you are allocated which one when you buy the ticket. Ian’s face was a sight when we entered the lift to be told that the lift is taking us up and then there are steps to come down the other side. He wasn’t worried for himself but he remembered an incident in Toledo in 2018 when we had to come down a spiral staircase. Too late. We were at the top. Amazing views across Barcelona. Views of some of the decorations on the towers. The current work being done on some of the towers. Then the descent. I was fine for a while. Spiral stairs with walls either side. I could take my time. Slowly. Then we got to the bit where there was a rail. But nothing the other side to hold onto. Don’t ask me why it’s a problem. It just is. Ian took my camera. My man bag. I took deep breaths. 500/600 steps later I was down. Literally. I had to sit down. Was it worth it? I’ll tell you when my is back recovers my nerves are calmer and my knees stop shaking.

Gausi designed and opened a school for his workers children and sometimes for the children of the local area. A lovely building with a wavy roof. Was a very different but lovely build against the magnificent gothic and art deco designs alongside it.

Tour over and a bit of a recharge it was odd to be at Las Ramblas. Apparently we stayed just off there when Ian and I were last here. I can’t remember a thing about the hotel but do remember bits of the trip. We must have been here in high season last time as I do remember the Ramblas being busier. This is one of the side streets off the ramblas which goes on forever.

Another walk down to look at the Gaudi buildings. We have been inside previously so could just stand and stare at the facade from outside and to be honest the entry price had increased hugely since we were last here. Hordes of students hogging the pavements waiting to go in. But I love this facade. It’s beautiful and simple all together. The balconies look like little masks for a masked ball.

Next on the agenda is Park Güell, one of Gaudi’s most notable creations in Barcelona. And a visit to Casa Vicens another Gaudiq masterpiece neither of which I have seen before.

But I think todays walking has been enough.

nearly 19,000 steps. 55 floors and just over 8 miles. No wonder I need a lie down.

A bit of Black and White.

It’s no surprise to many but I do like to take a photo or two. Just ask Ian. He will tell you that all my photos of him are ones of him walking ahead. That’s usually because he continues to walk on as I stop and take a photograph. Then when catching him up I take another. Usually of his back. I even had a photo book printed of a number of those photos. The funny thing is that he can say where each one was taken.

Since retiring I have rekindled my love of the camera and latterly taking photos with my iPhone. I always have my phone with me. Not glued to my ear but ready in hand in case. Not for a call but an opportunity. Years ago I took a lot of black and white. On a camera. No. Before yo say. It wasn’t a box brownie although I remember one in the house growing up. Mine was an Olympus trip. I didn’t realise that the Trip bit was a marketing reference As the camera was aimed at people who wanted a compact, functional camera for holidays. During the 1970s, it was the popular British photographer David Bailey advertised the camera. So that’s why I now realise why my mother used to comment when I was taking a photo ~ ‘ who do you think you are David Bailey!!

But with that camera photos were taken with real film with the added excitement of not instantly knowing what the picture would tell. Then the disappointment that out of a reel of 24 you might have at least one good one. If I was lucky. Then having a load of photos that were put in a box and not looked at again. My mother kept the ‘best’ ones in an old milk tray chocolate box. Now I keep them on my phone. Don’t ask how many are on here. Too many. This one came out of the chocolate box when the house was cleared. Taken in the early 1930’s and no. Not by me. Taken on Barry Island beach ~ pre Gavin and Stacey. My mother and her twin sister and brother with cousins and Granny Morgan. My great grandmother.

Back to now. My friend in Cómpeta , Dave, who is a great photographer ~ loves analogue photography, has given me the encouragement to take black and white photos again. Some on a digital camera. Some on iPhone. Some on both. Dave shoots on proper film and develops the photographs in his darkroom. I wouldn’t be allowed to be near the chemicals but more to the point I neither have the skill or the patience. It’s digital all the way for me. I envy Dave. He has more control over the finished photograph in the development stage. He exhibits his photos as well.

So this is a different blog than usual. Not a Garden blog. Not a Travel blog. But a Bit of black and white.

Somerset Lanes

We have driven this lane so many times over the last 30 years. I’ve always called it ‘Pig lane’ which it isn’t. But there is a large stone statue at the top end of the road of a Boar. I love the hedges when they have been freshly cut as the road draws your eye through what could be a maze. It’s a very different picture later in the year when the hedges are in full growth. And when you meet an artic heading up to the agricultural tractor place at the top. But to me it’s quintessentially English countryside.

Waterloo station concourse

Hello Waterloo station. I had been in Somerset for 3 weeks and because I’m an idiot who had forgotten an appointment for 6pm on a Friday I had to get the train from The Temple of Doom up to the city. Those that know know. For those that don’t The temple is Templecombe station. A pretty little station which is handy to get back to Clapham or Waterloo. Or Exeter. Or Salisbury. I thought I had time to kill so had a wander through the concourse. Well actually above it looking down. People coming and going. All with their own story to tell. Or not.

Somerset trees

Somerset. We can see these trees from the bedroom window high up in the fields behind the cottages. I love the shapes especially as the sun goes down. Looking back at the photos there are many shots of these.

Just a walk in the park.

There were some benefits of lockdown. It made us walk a lot more. We found places that were on our doorstep but we had never been to. When I was working it was home to office to home and an escape to Somerset on a Friday night. Or a Thursday when I dropped my days. This is Burgess Park. Not in lockdown but a few weeks ago. We were walking back from London Bridge through the park. No filter. An opportunistic shot. One I am framing.

Chilling

Another on our walk back through Burgess Park. Quite often there are people fishing at this spot ~ little tents erected. Fishing wire. Little camping seats. Today they were the other side of the man made lake.

Sloping trees

Competa. Trees marching up or is it down one of the mountains It’s a great sight as we drive in and out of the Pueblo Blanco. I keep expecting them to tumble down in the wind and not be there the next time we pass by. Competa is 2,000ft above sea level.

People
One man and his phone

The awesome structures of the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias Valencia. The buildings are awesome. Futuristic and one episode of Dr Who was filmed here. We have visited Valencia twice and will be back.

Back to the future.
Tickets please.

Tickets please. The beautiful station in Valencia. A stunning entrance hall. A fabulous original row of ticket sales windows. Glorious in colour. Atmospheric in black and white. This is another that will be printed and framed. Thanks to Dave I use a place in Valencia for printing as these will be framed for Competa.

London calling

Waiting for Ian near London Bridge. The shard ahead. The old and the new. After 40 years in London I still love its architecture which changes like the seasons. Buildings pop up all the time and the skyline views are amazing. The costs of getting to the skylines are amazing as well.

Compra ~ Venta

Valencia. I love Valencia. A walk through the narrow streets through the area with a lot of antique shops. Compra ~ Venta. We did neither. Everything I wanted wouldn’t fit in my small carry on case. But we are off to Barcelona soon and guess what. The Spanish Mr Glass has a shop there. Makes note. Take a large suitcase. Each.

From a distance

This blog is like me gardening. A bit of a butterfly. Flitting from one bit to another. I do that gardening. A bit here. A bit there. A bit over there. This photo is back in Competa. Well it may be Competa. It may be Canillas. What I do know is that it’s the walk between the two.

Bilbao

Bilbao. It was cold outside. Cold and wet. That was us too. So we stopped for coffee. I loved the picture on the wall. We walked past the Guggenheim the night before ~ it’s such a stunning building. The people in the photo are a bonus. Currently being framed.

Up our street

I liked this one so much I’ve had it framed and it’s ready for hanging. Another one in Bilbao. I just loved the street scene ~ we were staying just along the road but I never got another chance. Another opportunistic shot.

People said what would I do in retirement. Take photos. Travel. Sleep. Be bored. Never.

As a foot note. Black and white photos are timeless. Two from the chocolate box. One late 1950,s. One early 1960,s. Neither taken by me.

Father and son
Well dressed and gardening.

Travels around Spain ~ Valencia.

It’s been just over three years since our last visit. How can that happen. I know time flys when you are having fun but three whole years? But then again this year will see me celebrate 8 years of retirement. I know. I must have retired early. Or I hide my age well. It was the former. Remember. People said I’d be bored. What on earth would I do. I still don’t know the answer. As usual I digress.

We have decided on Ian’s suggestion to travel via a different city on our way to La casa for a number of trips. A bit like bogof ~ buy one get one free. Except it’s not. The first trip for 2023 is back to Valencia for a few days before we head home to Cómpeta. We also decided on an airport stay overnight to beat travel difficulties with rail strikes.

So a hotel was booked. A room on the 12th floor with runway views. Yes. Runways views. Perfecto for the plane spotter which I’m not. But great to see the airport. The slight worry was the description of the room facilities on a major booking site. King size bed. ✔️ the standard facilities. But rather alarmingly it stated private bathroom and toilet paper. The first is a must for me. I may be an oversharer in many areas but bathrooms isn’t one of them. Toilet paper ~ I know during the pandemic there was panic buying but surely this is a given. I’m happy to report that the well known hotel chain had both.

We don’t usually fly from Heathrow. For us living south of the river it’s a pain to get to but the opening of the Elizabeth line has made it a bit easier. A tube line which is a pleasure to travel on as well. Light. Airy. And not too packed. I usually board the flight and shove in my ear pods and sleep ready for the walking I know that we will do when we arrive.

I was a little worried when listening to the flight attendant when she mentioned life jackets under the seats to see the man in the opposite aisle checking that his was there. I have never done that! Ever. Though it does remind me to check that the yellow vest and red triangle is in the car when we pick it up in Malaga next week.

I’m still wearing masks. It’s like a comfiest blanket for me and whilst many will say that it makes no difference, for me I’m happier wearing it in large gatherings or on public transport. I see a number of immune suppressant people and I feel more comfortable for them if I do.

In 2019 we stayed in a great apartment in the Ruzafa district in Valencia. Three years later we are back and it is just as we remembered it. Great hosts to meet us and a lovely clean bright and welcoming apartment. Ian is great at finding these and we have places lined up for Barcelona, Lisbon and Porto for the next few months.

Despite only arriving mid afternoon we don’t let the grass grow under our feet. Ian was happy after a chat with the hosts who complimented him on his Spanish ~ his is so much better than mine. He has conversations. I have sentences. He says I hear it and understand it and read it but putting my brain through to my voice is still a problem. Some will say it’s always been a problem. I disagree. Sometimes I speak and my mother comes out. It’s just a shame she wasn’t fluent in Spanish.

Ian and a stranger
Gorgeous streets

The side streets are narrow and the buildings colourful ~ though there are many fine buildings still ripe for development. When we were here in December 2019 it was wet. Biblical rain. Today we arrived in thermal vests and thick coats ~ not just those to be fair , but in the sun it was 20*. Cooler in the shade but still a tad warmer than London and warmer than our next destination.

Spain still has many things that we are losing in the Uk. Small shops. Independent artisan shops like this fabulous hand painted hat shop we passed on our walk into the centre.

Fabulous painted hats

Berets always remind me of two friends. People I have been friends with for decades. One Cate ~ who i first met back in 1980 when she was appearing at the Cardiff New theatre and who is the reason I have lived in the same street in London for the last 30 years | we became next door neighbours in London after she told me that a flat was for sale next door ~ who when we met was wearing a blue beret~ and my antique dealer friend Shirley who we met 30’years ago who is now in France. It’s funny how certain things remind you of people for ever.

The little shop www.elpintordesombreros.com and the hats are fabulous. We do have lots of artisan creators in the uk but many are on line only or at many of the wonderful fairs. Premises costs are too expensive.

It’s the same for restaurants ~ the city is full of small good quality eating places and not littered with chains. Yes there are the burger bars and the like but even their shop frontages look a bit more subdued. The weather is also better suited to outdoor seating which helps with smaller premises.

I remembered this wig shop from our last visit though I’m not tempted for either the fake moustache of the wig. I remember what I looked like with a moustache and it’s not coming back. I don’t want more hair on my lip than I have on my head. Oh. And I remembering because we walked past. Not because of a visit.

A walk into the centre to see familiar landmarks to visit this trip. The central market. The silk exchange. Just a mooch through the small colourful streets.

The joy of staying in an apartment is that you have a choice. Do you eat out. Or in. On the first night after arriving mid afternoon sometimes it’s just nice to grab something to eat indoors ~ we needed to soma bit of shopping anyway. We almost eaten all of the mandarins that the hosts has left us anyway! It also meant we could go for a good early evening wander ~ whilst it was dry and big too cold.

I love cities at night. Not for the night life these days ~ those days have long gone. But at night most European cities know how to showcase their architecture with good lighting. Take the train station close by timwheee we are staying. A beautiful but I’d valenciano Arg decor. Opened in 1916 and is simply like a step back in time. A fabulous entrance. Amazing ticket hall and booths. And trains that are running.

The entrance
The ticket booths. Still open.
The beautiful room off the rocket hall
The working clock
Indulge my current black and white obsession

It’s funny how some things are familiar even after only one visit. It was easy to find out bearings. There were one or two places we didn’t get to see last time. Which we will this. Some we saw during the day which we will visit at night. The list is endless

He’s still in the same position he was in back in 2019. Poor bloke must be freezing sitting in that water all the time. Talk about soggy bottom.

The colourful fountains on our walk. I thought they were lit just for the Christmas celebrations when we were last here. Obviously not!

The markets in Spanish towns are amazing. The variety of fresh produce is fantastic with locally grown vegetables freshly caught fish and a whole myriad of spices herbs and cheeses to tempt your culinary delights. The above is the central market. We visited a smaller local market when we went for a paella class which I preferred. Smaller yes but the chef who we walked around with knew all the stall holders ~ and it looked like he knows most of the shoppers in the market! explained that the fishmongers were closed on a Monday as there are no catches over the weekend. Obvious really , you want the freshest of fish. His mantra for a good paella. Good fresh seasonal produce to add to the rice.

Back to the restaurant as a group of six to jointly prepare and cook a fabulous lunch. A really interesting group. A guy from Korea. Another from Berlin a journalist who liked yoga and swing dancing. A girl from Manchester who was looking to get a digital nomad visa to teach English and a girl from the Ukraine who was working abroad pre the start of the war. And us. Old enough to be their grandfathers. It made for sn interesting chat over lunch.

We missed this last time and I remember why. The queue. It was massive and one thing we don’t do is queue. It eats into vital time when you have a timeframe on a short break. St Nicolas a Roman Catholic parish church. An absolutely stunning building in gothic style with more fabulous colours and more gilt than I have seen in a long time. Absolutely stunning. And guess what. No queue when we arrived. And a massive one when we left. Bonus.

It also has some stunning stained glass windows.

I hate steps. Not Steps as in 5.6.7.8 but climbing steps. To be fair it’s the coming down that kills me. So we climbed most of the way up the Torres but not all the way. But it is worth visiting unless you have an arthritic hip a fear of heights and a feeling of falling when descending steps. I’m really selling myself again.

We visited the Silk Exchange in 2019 and loved it. This time I loved it more. the architecture. The tiles. The light. It was magical. How I’d love a house with those tiles. I’d also love a room as big to take them. But not the door. Imagine the draught you’d get when opening the door for the Amazon deliveries.

The majesty of columns. Talk shapely curvy ~ and difficult to get a clear view. What you don’t see is that there are half a dozen people hiding behind the columns.

From a distance

I stood for what seemed like ages to get a clear view and then……. But it does make a good photo even if I say it myself!

The La Lonja (The Silk Exchange) is a Unesco World Heritage site with the first stone laid in 1492. And is definitely worth a visit or two.

Ian is great at organising these trips and finding the Airbnb. But the next photo isn’t one of them. Thankfully. It’s one of the bedrooms in El Museo Nacional de Ceramica y de las Artes Suntuarias Gonzalez Marti~ long title. We called it the Ceramics museum. ‘ Housed in the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas, it was founded on 7 February 1947, from the donation of Manuel González Martí’s ceramics collection. Seven years later, once the restoration of the palace was completed, the museum opened to the public on 18 June 1954.’

It is stunning and even better it was free entry on the day we went. I have to say that there are some irritating people wanting the perfect photograph. Not me although I am irritating. Three people were on the grand staircase going up to the first floor. Wanting the perfect Instagramable ( is that a word) photo. One at the bottom of the stairs. Two at the top. Posing. One leg one way. Pouting. Then suddenly telling someone off for interrupting their photo shoot and wanting to go up the stairs. We were about to go up too. What they didn’t realise was they told off one of the officials. Did they care. Not a bit. I was hoping they would have been shown the door.

The red room is well. Very red with a gorgeous chandelier and red chairs. The white room very calm with a grand piano a harp and some what looked like vintage guitars but they would have had a more interesting name.

I’ll admit to a better photo of this room back in 2019. But it wasn’t a Sunday that day and wasn’t as busy. In Valencia they wrap rope around the chairs and sofas to stop you sitting down. In the UK we are less subtle. We place something prickly to make sure you don’t even try !

I can’t imagine this getting through the narrow streets of Valencia and the occupants must have needed padded pantaloons to protect you from bottom bumps.

I had a fascination for the painted metal shutters of the garages and shops. These are just a few showing that grey roller shutters don’t need to be boring. Ever.

Doesn’t everyone dress up for a stroll around the street market?

Valencia is a city of many styles. The historic area. The central area. The trendy neighbourhoods.- one where we were staying Ruzafa. Then there is the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias. A sight that takes your breath away as you approach it and the second visit didn’t dilute the experience. An episode of Dr Who was filmed here and it’s like being in a sci fi movie. I suspect it’s a big like marmite. I hate marmite. I love this. It feels so light. Bright. Busy but not packed.

The Spanish love a fiesta. Or two. The year is littered with fiestas for everything. In Cómpeta we have one for the wine. One for the chestnuts. The annual Feria. Coming up in Valencia is The Fallas. Every year there are fireworks. Parades and hundreds of large paper mache figures made. And all but two are burnt on the last day of the festival. Two are saved by a public vote and the city has kept two from each Fallas since 1938. The 2023 exhibition is fabulous , spooky and bonkers. At times all three ~ we loved it.

.

These are just a few. There were hundreds. There is also a children’s section where the figures are smaller. With more clothes as well.

It was a full on four days but a fabulous trip and a great idea of Ian’s to travel to La Casa via another Spanish destination. Now we are heading to Malaga and that drive up the wiggly road. I’d like to say it will be relaxing after all that walking. I suspect not.

Next trip. Barcelona.

Lights. Music. Walking.

This Christmas trip has been a bit of a lights extravaganza. I’ve said it before and being one to repeat myself I’ll say it again. Malaga is a vastly underrated destination. For many reasons. What they do so well and is a huge tourist and resident attraction is Festivals. Semana Santa parades and Christmas being two. The pueblo blanco’s have their Ferias. Their noche del vino. at Christmas the lights are spectacular.

Malaga has a great backdrop for the light show in the Botanical Gardens. La Conceptuon ~ the Jardin Botanivo Historico. A great place to visit during the day to see the extensive planting and the great walks through the gardens. Originally created in 1885 and which remained in private ownership until 1990 when it became municipal property and then opened to the public in /994. The gardens have a vast array of tropical plants collected from around the world over its 23 hectares.

Whilst a great place to walk during the day with cheap admission prices and a small cafe it is magical illuminated at night for this years Christmas show. This is the second year that it has been held in Malaga and this year the info says ‘ the walk is ‘ 2.2 kilometers in length where more than 20 light installations will transport visitors to historic places such as Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem.’

That is once you navigate the parking and the queue to get in. Parking generally for the gardens is small and like everything the Mathieson – Jones household does we aimed to arrive early. Like when we fly we are usually at the airport a week before if Ian has his way. He hates lateness. I hate rushing as I’m a bit of a panicker. What if the traffic is bad. What if we can’t park. Let me fast forward. We parked ok after a bit of a turn around. But the parking wasn’t difficult. The leaving was. Not because of traffic but because of the very kind person who felt it necessary to park so close to the drivers door that not even Twiggy would be able to slide into the drivers seat. Let alone a man of certain age and certainly not on the thinner side. I couldn’t even get a leg through the door. So. With someone waiting to take my space holding up the traffic I had to scramble in from the passengers side. Climb over the gear stick with a dodgy hip and arthritic knee. I managed eventually. And the car waited patiently for my space. Yes. I digress again. But I am no contortionist and I’m not as supple as I once was.

The photo above was taken from the queue to go in which was a bit like a air con in its own right. People panicking because they felt the 19.30 tickets were being let in before the 19.00 despite being told that we were in the right queue. I’d like to repeat some of their conversations. But I won’t. Or my comments to Ian. Neither are appropriate after the event. But the queue was fine. Orderly and no. The 19.30 hasn’t gone in before us. They had been ushered to another queue.

Oh. And we didn’t get to see the parador lit up. The path doesn’t take us up amongst the cactus ~ I suspect a bit dodgy in the dark and health and safety would be an issue. No matter me wants to fall over. A prickly pear. A first for here in Spain. you haven’t seen our electrician work or the man climbing our trees. It takes health and safety to a whole new level.

I have realised that we did miss the parador out in the walk. That was a major fail on my part. Map reading was never my strong point. I have yet to tell Ian. We also missed the camels. There is always next year. .

To be fair the queue moves quickly and tickets checked ~ no question on my old man’s discounted ticket which always disappoints me that they don’t ask for documentary evidence. That’s vanity for you. I never got checked for alcohol purchases either.

The website says ‘ welcome to Stela ~ Embark on the Christmas journey of the Star of the East and the Three Wise Men and let your imagination fly with STELA.

It is a magical journey through visuals and music

A lot of the lighting is very visual and some doesn’t photograph well with the crowds but the colours and the lighting is spectacular. An incredibly clever use of the light and a self guided one way pathway way through the gardens. Despite the numbers it never feels crowded once you get in. It is hugely popular and last year had over 110,000 visitors. I think this year that will be surpassed as last year was the first year and word of mouth has spread.

These crowns are large. And are one of the first spectacular pieces that you encounter. Not the first. But the one that took my breath away.

Particularly spectacular are the crowns. How I would love one of these illuminated on the roundabout that’s not a roundabout to be lit to signify we were in residence. A bit like the flag flying over Buckingham palace. Two things stopping that. The roundabout that’s not a roundabout has no services. ~ electricity and a Waitrose local ~ and it’s in the campo where no new builds are allowed. This technically would fail but thankfully the bulbs are all Led so would get a good energy rating!

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The bamboo forests look amazing during the day but lit up they take on an eerie feel but spectacular.

We three kings. Another high point but a low point in that as usual the idiot comes out in me as I sing the wrong words to the old Christmas carol | we three kings from orient are. One in a bus. And one in a car. One on a scooter blowing his hooter ……… I blame my mother for everything.

A rare sighting. But it’s Christmas and maybe a New Year’s resolution is to have at least one joint selfie a month in 2023. As long as we are in the same place that month! But also to show proof that we are out together and it’s not just Ian walking on his own.

The colours and placing of the lights is clever. Though at points a little dark. Which is fine until you put your glasss on your head to take a photo. Raise your head and they fall down your back. Onto the floor amongst a throng of people. Luckily we weee all standing still. So I was able to scrabble and find them. Without being knocked off my feet which would have been humiliating watching me get back up. And luckily I had packed a small torch.

The taking tree. We could hear noises as we weee approaching the areas where this tree was illuminated. To be fair we weren’t sure what to expect. It sounded from a distance that something was happening in the wood and maybe someone had left a microphone on. There were some strange and funny noises coming from the distance. You know that nursery rhyme. If you go down to the woods today. ….. you are in for a big surprise. Then there was talking and we realised as you do that it was the tree. I know. It so was weird but trust me. I recorded it and it does sound weird until the talking starts. think a bit Shirley valentine. Talking to a wall but the wall talks back. Remember next time you take the Kings advice and talk to your plants. They will sound weird if they reply.

Like the light show at the Cathedral there is a show against the mansion in the grounds. It’s pretty amazing and I think is one of the high lights of the walk. Oh. I’ve forgotten to say that there is music along a the walk which is a atmospheric as you take the journey which transports you to Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem. No Boney M singing rivers of Babylon but I had the look of Ian when I started to sing it. Quietly thankfully. Nino dodgy dance moves. Not on those paths. In the dark.

Not a spectacular photo but a special one for me. In our Spanish garden I have a bed of Clivia. Clivia and I go back decades ( not a dating relationship ) ~ but a plant I bought at a fabulous garden shop in Castle Cary owned by a friend and neighbour of ours at the time. I say she introduced me to a lot of interesting plants and hulks back then ~ an ex Blue Peter gardener and now living on Dartmoor with her rescue animals. Dartmoor ponies. Donkeys. Sheep and turkeys. I digress again. But I bought Clivia as house plants from her. So when we bought the house here and realised we could grow them in the garden I did. Then we came to the Botanical gardens and saw swathes of them planted under the trees I realised I could plant more. I have and will continue to . This photo is more to show the mass of Clivia than the lights. The following photo is an early one flowering at home I the garden. I will be back to see these beauties flower. In the daytime though oh. And for the record Clare the ex neighbour is the creator and seller of the fabulous Donkey Gloves with all profits going to the animals she rescues. Great gloves ~ I’m not biased. They are.

It was worth the 50 min drive down the wiggly road for sure and it’s a great tourist attraction not only for the international tourists here for Christmas but also the local residents who were attending. A lot of family groups old and young. Some even older than me which to be fair at some of the events we have been to lately is rare.

That’s the last of our Christmas outings for 2022. It will be a quiet New year for us as is usual. But not as quiet as 2020 and 2021 for sure. The blog will probably be like current forms of public transport for the next month. Few and far between and not terribly reliable.

Happy New year ~ Feliz año Nuevo and thank you for indulging me with my blogs again in 2022.

Boxing Day – Andalucia 2022

‘What are we doing today’ is a phrase you hear often in this house. ‘Are we going out. Or are you gardening.’ To be fair it could be asked in a number of places. Counties and continents.

Today it was Spain. Boxing Day. Not usually a bank holiday in Spain but as Christmas Day was a Sunday it is a holiday. Of sorts. A lot of places are open. First stop was the town. Morning coffee and churros with friends who happened to be passing. The intention was to head down to the coast to blow away the cobwebs with a walk along the prom. But as usual plans changed. A decision to walk the goat track between Cómpeta and Canillas. I just couldn’t be doing with a drive down and back up the wiggly road. Knowing we would be heading down the windey road later.

I’ve walked the goat track a few times. But I have never met a goat. There is evidence of the presence of goats. Underfoot and no smell. Interesting fact or not. I used to own a goat and win prizes. A golden Guernsey. Oh. And I had a flock of Llanwenog sheep. I digress but if you’ve read my blog before you know I do that often. A bit of a butterfly. Flit here and there.

But the goat track is a walking track between Cómpeta and Canillas. There are two Canillas’s. Canillas de Albeida ~ where the track ends up. And Canillas de Aceituno. Where it doesn’t. If you end up at the latter you’ve taken a wrong turn and walked for miles out of your way.

What with lockdowns and a bout of lazyitis I don’t recall there being the roped walkway when I was here last. But it does help when you need something to support you! Or stop you falling off the track.

There are some fabulous views on the walk. The coast. The mountains. The avocado plantations. That’s probably not what they are called but there are plenty of them on the walk. That and olive trees.

A friend asked if I ever walk in front of Ian. Wasn’t hard to answer to be fair. No. He will tell you without you asking that I have presented him with a photo book. All of the pictures are of him walking in front of me. What is interesting is that he can usually tell you where the photo was taken.

We had intended to walk halfway and then turn back. But madness prevailed and we continued to the end of the track. I’m glad we did. There was a lot to see.

Wild fires are not uncommon here and last year was no exception. You may have read in previous blogs < if you haven’t you are only looking at the pictures ~ that I’m paranoid that the roundabout that’s not a roundabout will catch fire. It’s a scrubby bit of land that needs a haircut annually. Has a fig tree and two scrappy almonds planted on it.

A lot of people have the wildfire app so that you can see where the fires are and also report any that you see. The area where one of the fires ~ well two as a second was in the same place not long after – is just on the track. It’s pretty eerie to see as it looks like something out of a zombie horror movie.

Helicopters are used to drop water bombs onto the fires and it has been known for them to collect water from private swimming pools. It’s both fascinating and worrying to see them flying over your house on the way to the fires. Last year the temperatures in Andalusia were bonkers. Into the 40’s with a severe drought. I was very happy when our banks were cleared.

To be fair the black and white photos give you more of a feel for the devastation.

You know when you walk further than planned. When really you could have done with a backpack full of goodies. Like chocolate. More chocolate and a hip flask. At one point that’s what I needed. But I didn’t complain. To be fair Ian was too far ahead to even hear me. Let alone be bothered. I think at that stage he has his mind on lunch. Mine was on finding a loo.

You know the wedding scene on Mamma Mia where they get married in the church at the top of the hill. That’s what it felt like when we got here. The end of the goat track and turn left. A beautiful church ~ Ermita de Santa Ana ~ a simple building of the 16th c built in the Mudejar style. I had to have a sit down and take in the views. Not because they were fabulous. They were. But because my legs were aching. I needed a drink. And Ian needed food. Don’t forget. We never intended to walk this far. Now we had to go back.

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We headed down into the centre of the pueblo blanco and found a restaurant we hadn’t eaten in before ~ paella if you are asking.

But the day didn’t stop there. After a nap ~ at home. Not at the restaurant ~ we drove down the windey road to Nerja. More Christmas lights beckoned. like a magpie I was there. Sparkly lights. Music. Churros. And the Spanish sunset over the coast.

It’s Christmas. We have selfies today. That’s why I look so surprised. And it was at Ian’s suggestion.

Now you can ask. But I don’t have the answer. I have absolutely no idea what was going on. Remember. We are in Andalusia. On the coast. And we are surrounded by super hero’s. But even super hero’s get a wedgie.

So another day. More Christmas lights.

Can I tell you a secret. I’m going to anyway. There is one more light adventure. One that combines Christmas. Illuminations. And plants. Coming soon. Very soon.

Frosty Days. Cold nights.

Oh my. We are never happy are we. Too hot. Too cold. Too wet. Too dry. But I have to admit this last week or so has been Baltic. Been right brass monkey weather. The bonus against cold v wet is that at least you can layer up. Ok there are days when I looked like a Michelin man. But warmth over style rules when it’s freezing. But. A bit of frost. A bit of snow. Great for photos right?

This is the lane at the back of the cottage. The road to granny and grandads. Like the roundabout that’s not a roundabout Intalk about in Spain they aren’t my granny and grandad. But if you’ve read any of my blogs you’ll know that. Taken early one morning with a coffee in one hand and my iPhone in another. A morning chat with Farmer Paul on the bridge on his way to start the day with his cattle. To be fair I had gone into the lane as there was a water leak running down the hill. Don’t even get me started on trying to report the leak. Online report only. Wanted so many of my details before I could report. I nearly gave up the will to live

I usually creep over the old bridge. Not that I’d disturb the neighbours but you never know what’s on the river. That morning I could have kicked myself. Four. Yes four white egrets flew up as I passed. Try taking a photo quickly with coffee in one hand and the other hand in your coat pocket. Epic fail. But trust me. It was a sight.

There were some spectacular icicles hanging down from the viaduct. The ones hanging down our front door from an overflowing tank in the loft weren’t quite as spectacular but I nearly impaled myself on them as I opened the door. Thankfully quickly sorted. The leak. Not me.

It makes everything look so pretty. Not that I’m biased. I love the village and it is a bit picture perfect. But I love that it’s also still a working village. Cattle. Sheep. Hay. Straw and for my godchildren ( not the farming ones) ~ the DFL’s ~ the tractors and agricultural machinery.

I had the urge to recreate that scene from The Holiday where Cameron Díaz runs across the field back to the house. Two things stopped me. There wasn’t really enough snow. And the running. Oh. And Ian was still fast asleep back at the cottage. This field is Alders. Not the department store. But I suspect named after the line of alder trees along the river bank which are no longer. After the flood the line of trees on the bank were removed to allow the field to act as an overflow for the river.

Our decision to be at the cottage last week was to plant the tulip pots. I didn’t plan on the weather. I knew it was cold. I knew I was waiting for a cold spell. But I didn’t bargain on having to remove the top 4 inches of compost as it was frozen solid. I wanted to remove half of the compost anyway but not with a pick axe and a screwdriver.

But. I did it. Compost removed. New compost bought. But. Another but. The compost from the local gardening centre was frozen. I had no option. As well as warm my feet by the wood burner two bags of peat free compost were being de frosted,

And yes. I did it. Well. 12 of the 15 pots. The last two defeated me with more frost and snow.

These aren’t all the colours. As usual I started with the plan. And the weather and the cold got to me. So it will be a dolly mixture again this year. Plus. Three pots will be done in January.

Back to the views. The days and the light changes so quickly and as well as the frosty grey days the morning light can be magical. As long as you are up early enough. Wrapped up. And with a hot drink in your hand.

The same view on a different day. The day before the snow and frost pic. Look at that sky. No filter. iPhone 12 Pro. Right time. Right place.

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I haven’t cut anything back in the garden this autumn/winter. I’d like to say it has been planned. But in reality it’s either been too wet for this fair weather gardener or I just haven’t had the time. But it certainly makes for a pretty sight in the frost and the birds have been loving the seed heads. And one single frosted rose looked fabulous.

We both had to go back to London mid visit. The plan was to go by train and stay for two nights and head back for the weekend to attend a friends 60th. Best laid plans and all that. We had to be in London. So we had to drive. Being back we also had our usual walk through the park which was also looking good.

No sticking to the paths for us. I couldn’t walk on blocks of ice. No doubt I’d be flat on my back. But back to Somerset it was and a hideous journey with the A303 closed near Stonehenge and a diversion over Salisbury Plain. Great views. Slippery roads.

Just back in time for the carol service at St Leonard’s church Pitcombe. It’s been a while since I’ve been. Many years ago. Decades actually the parish priest called me a festival worshipper. Christmas. Easter. Harvest festival. Patronal festival. He didn’t say it as a bad thing. But he was right. I was there to sing the hymns & the carols. Oh. And for the mince pies and mulled wine.

I can’t remember seeing the stained glass looking so bright. Possibly as I was ambling along in the dark looking up for a change.

And no. I didn’t get the last three pots done. They had frosted again and I had lost the will to live. But I saw my godson who asked what I was doing later in the afternoon. Oh. I thought. He’s coming down with his girlfriend. No. Don’t be silly. I have my uses as does Ian. Any chance you can stand in the road. I’m bringing the sheep through from church ground and I need you both to stop them going up pitcombe Rock. How 20 years makes a difference. One day I’m feeding him his bottle. The next I’m watching him lead the sheep through the village.

That’s Somerset done until 2023. Strikes. Trains. Planes and weather permitting we head away for the Christmas and new year festivities. Some more tulip planting ~ I must take them out of the fridge before Ian realises that’s where they have been stored for the last month. I won’t need a pick axe to plant there. We have had the long awaited rain. And no. The rain in Spain doesn’t stay mainly on the plain.

There will be supper with friends. An overnight in Malaga to see the Christmas lights. A visit to the Botanical gardens to see the illuminations. Some gardening. Oh. And you know there will be the usual ramblings.

If not I’ll be planting those last three pots.