A holiday within a holiday ~ Cordoba

Let me get something off my chest for starters. Spanish underground car parks. They give me the creeps. Not because they are scary. But because they scare me. What is it will pillars. These car parks weren’t built for todays modern cars. The spaces are too narrow. The pillars. Well they are everywhere. And the turning circles and ramps down. just don’t go there. That’s my whinge. I’ll go round and round looking for a nice space to drive in and out of ~ but not in the car park in Cordoba and I was t even driving in!

Friends were staying in Seville and we arranged to meet up when they visited Cordoba. Never ones to say no to a trip away we arranged to drive to cordoba and stay over for two nights and to meet up for supper. We are so well positioned in Competa. Granada is about 1:5 miles drive. Seville is about 3. Malaga 1 and Cordoba is 2hrs 20. We have done it as a day trip by car. I’ve done it by train from Malaga as a day trip. This time we decided to stay for two nights.

We managed to stay right next to the Mosque Cathedral ~ really central and easy to find. The hotel not the cathedral. That’s well signposted.

The Roman Bridge has been around since 1st. Century and the existing bridge is largely from 8thc. A lot of locations for Game of Thrones weee filmed in Spain and the majestic roman bridge was featured in series 5. Ian told me. He was a fan. I just watched bits when we happened to be in the same room. In the same house in the same country. But I also understand they also used CGI to make it look bigger. I think it looks pretty amazing as it is.

Córdoba Uber. No we didn’t try ~ but there are lots of them.

I have been to Cordoba three times before. This is visit number four to the Mosque cathedral. Almost as many times as I’ve visited The Alhambra in Granada. Both are stunning. But the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba) blows my mind. I think it’s the subtlety of the Mosque; it’s beautiful simplicity with the stunning architecture of its columns Against the bling bling of the cathedral. To have the two in one building is stunning. Spain has 49 UNESCO world Heritage sites and the Mosque Cathedral is one of them.

We visited at night ~ Saturday night its free entrance so why not. It’s a very different experience at night. The lighting is different as is the atmosphere. Oh. And did I say it was free.

I’d have loved to have heard the organ played. In the cathedral and Mosque I’m sure the acoustics would be amazing. Sat under a stunning ceiling. Stunning plasterwork.

The altar was typically grand as you would expect in a Catholic Church. As a vicar friend of mine one replied when I asked which service I should attend at the church where he was officiating ‘ come to the later one. It’s all bells and smells’. That sums me up. Our local vicar once said I was a a festival worshipper . He didn’t mean Glastonbury ~ he meant Christmas and Harvest festival.

The choir seats were a bit spooky. Each arm rest had a figure carved into it. Beautifully carved. All individual. But scary. The seats are carved mainly out of mahogany wood with a row of 30 upper seats and a row of 23 lower seats, all with these carvings.

At the end of the day the brass still needs polishing. I remember my mother getting the brasso out to polish the brass candlesticks and the knocker on the front door. I can smell it still. I remember it made your fingers black.

I would have thought I’d be used to the narrow Spanish streets after five years. But it never ceases to amaze me how narrow they are and how the cars and vans manoeuvre their way through. People have to stand in door ways like sentries. It’s my nightmare having to manoeuvre my way through these streets. Once in Sentil de las Bodegas I threatened to just get out of the car and get the hire company come and collect it. Just where I’d stopped preferably. I was breathing in as we drove through.

The main reason for the trip to Cordoba ~ although Ian and I never need an excuse for a road trip ~ was to meet up with friends who were travelling in Spain. Five us had worked together over the years and had been friends for over 35 years. Ian and Sarah trained together and are birthday twins. Sane day. Same month same year. Four of us were business partners. Four of us are partners. Confused. Don’t be. We know what’s going on and that’s all that counts. The hotel had recommended a restaurant for supper on the Sunday evening. I’m often dubious about hotel recommendations but this was spot on. Great food. Great atmosphere and great conversation. Don’t ask about the plates. It would take an age to explain.

Casa Pepe

Who doesn’t go on a bus tour when travelling in a new city. Ok. Not that new to us but it’s always worth the trip around the city. It helps get your bearings. If we hadn’t been on the bus we wouldn’t have seen this place and hopped off. The Palacio Viana. Is a fabulous Renaissances palace with 12 beautifil and very different patio gardens.

It was was the private residence of the 3rd Marquise of Viana until his death in 1980 and was bought by a Cordoba bank on his death. He died with no heirs.

The wheels on the bus

I love a view through a door in the garden ~ this one draws you in from one patio garden to the next. I love the idea of having the gardens like a series of rooms.

How do they get the plumbago to grow this large. Mine at La Casa is pretty poor. If it’s still alive. I need to check when I’m next there but I’d love for it to cover the garage wall like this.

I can’t imagine this going through the streets of Cordoba but it did. How they manoeuvred around the corners on these small often bumpy streets. I’d be happier being carried around in the smaller one.

There was a lot of wandering. A bit of a bizarre evening where we had booked supper at a restaurant which looked good. We arrived and were shown to a table. A table where you needed a lift to get on the chairs and once you’d managed it you immediately started slipping off. We asked to move. We were considering moving restaurants ~ loud music was coming from the roof top terrace. By loud I mean booming. We were the oldest swingers in town.

We were seated in an alcove. Great table. Tucked away in a corner. The best table for people watching. A huge mirror just in view where the young and trendy had camera phones in hand probably for Instagram or tick toc and were taking their selfies as they passed. Unaware we were watching. I never realised the effort you should put into a pose for these photos. Mine are selfie snaps and not that often. Flicks of the hair. One foot forward. Stand kinda sideways. I might try it. Except my pout would be a gurn and my arthritic hip would give out and I’d ultimately fall over. But the service was excellent. The food really good and the complimentary G& T at the end more than generous in size. The entertainment perfect.

We didn’t do the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos this time. We tried on the Saturday night. Another free entry but the queue for the queue was huge and despite the British love of queuing , 10pm on a Saturday night was not for me. Oh. And it’s closed on a Monday. We have been before and I’m not sure what the gardens would have been like. It’s been a long hot dry summer in Spain. As they used to say on Blue Peter ( ask your parents if you are young) here’s one I made earlier. On a previous visit. And not with sticky backed plastic and a squeezey bottle.

We have another Spanish adventure lined up. Next stop Bilbao. One thing is guaranteed. There will be pictures. Maybe a blog. But definitely pictures.

Not just gardens and gardening! Part 1.

I’m coming to the end of another spell at La Casa in Spain. Something I always have mixed feelings about. I so love it here. People ask me why and for me the answer is easy. The people. The culture. The traditions. Oh and the food and wine. But I also,love that I’m fortunate enough to be able to have the mix of both here and there. There and here. Both very very different. Two very different social lives. Gardens. Cultures.

We have settled in here. Settled into a routine. Favourite restaurants. Cafes. Shops. People. But Ian told me when we bought the house that it wasn’t always a holiday when I’m here. There are still things to do. The house to maintain. The garden to maintain. To be fair he was and is right but we try and squeeze as much into each visit as we can.

The last two weeks have seen us have two separate visitors. The first a friend from Somerset we have known for over 20 years. I think she likes coming to stay as this was visit no 4 in the last 2.5 years. The second my old friend Michael or Ooh allo as I call him and have done now for 37 years. When we first met I said ‘ hello you must be Michael’ to which he respndedn’ Ooh allo’. So that’s his name. Must be welsh thing. You know. We have Jones the Milk. Pete the post.

Ian always says guests are like fish. Both go off after 4 days. Not these two. We always manage to fit something in new each visit.

Mosque Cathedral Córdoba

I try and find something and somewhere different to take Helen when she is here. The first trip,was The Alhambra the second was Malaga, the third was Ronda. So this visit I decided we would go to Cordoba. The thing about having a place in Spain is that you do get visitors and this was the third time I had been. This trip I decided that we wouldn’t drive; but park in Malaga and take the train. Bingo. An excellent idea.

The mesquite cathedral is fabulous. A word that I use a lot about the historical buildings and the gardens here in Andalucia. But they are. Simply fabulous.

The difference between the simplicity of the Mosque against the pomp of the cathedral is staggering. Both beautiful in different ways. I loved the cool repetition of the pillars and the subtlety of the colours of the mosque. With a dash of the sun through the stained glass peeking onto the floor of the mosque.

Reflections from the stained glass

I have seen the Alcazar de low Reyes Cristian gardens at different times of the year and these are lovely at any time. Not on such a grand scale as the Alhambra and probably not as well known as those in Seville but these are beautifully laid out. With some impressive topiary.

The Alcazar dates back to,1328 and has been used in the Spanish Inquisition and as a garrison for Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops in 1810. I didn’t go into the building this time. Steps up to the top are steep and as we had walked and walked and as I had been before I left a helen to do that whilst I had a snooze. In the chapel.

The gardens of the Alcazar de los Reyes Córdoba

The closest I’ll get to being on that plinth in Trafalgar Square

Typically we wandered and wandered in between coffee to,the Roman Bridge. A spectacular looking bridge, a bridge I have yet to cross to the other side. You may recognise it as it was used in The Game of Thrones. As in it was used in the filming of. They closed the bridge to,film apparently. I was neither in the series,:watched a full episode or was there when they closed the bridge.

The Roam Bridge Córdoba

Lunch. Ice cream. Coffee toilet stops and then fell upon a small renovated house in the Jewish quarter with a beautiful courtyard garden.

We are also lucky that the coast is a short drive down the wiggly or windey Road. Dependent on whether you want to go left or right at the coast. I decided that for Sunday lunch we would go left. Down to the costa tropical. Who knew. I didn’t. I’d heard of Costa de Sol. Costa bravo. Cost a lot. But never Tropical. But down the wiggly road and turn left you head toward The province of Granada and the Costa tropical. Sunday was a trip to La Herrudura for lunch at a little chirringuito that a friend had taken us to previously. Lunch right on the beach. Fresh fish. Delicious. A walk on the beach after lunch to round it off. La chambao de Vicente is one of my favourites.

La Herrudura Costa Tropical

Unknown to us until the second year of being here and thanks to our friend Sergio we went to El puerto deportivo de marina de este just around the coast from the beach of La Herrudura. . A quiet marina full of expensive boats. Some restaurants. A large apartment complex. And not too many people.

El puerto deportivo de marina de este

There are two,ways to drive back. The high road. Or the low road. Ear worm starts to,sing the theme tune from some obscure TV series. The low road is the coast road and is the one I like to take. It takes you through the outskirts of Maro and through the town of Nerja. With a stop off in Maro to take in the sight of the Aqueduct that originally took water to the sugar factory down in Maro itself. Today it is used for local irrigation. The sugar factory long gone. Although there is still some sugar cane growing as you walk down the road to the small little beach.

It wouldn’t be a proper visit without a stop off in Nerja. When we first came to the area I have to admit I did t like it. I went there to go to my bank. Nothing else. Oh. And the fabulous fruit shop across from the shop that sells excellent empanadas.

Now we go often. Sometimes to eat in the evening. Sometimes just for a coffee and a wander.

Nerja

There’s always a visit to Nerja. Even if it’s only to have a wander along the Balcón de Europe to look at the sea. Grab an ice cream. So visitor one was due to depart. Ian due to arrive the following day. Two days to relax before visitor no 2. And it starts all over again. Different friend. Largely different places for week 2.

What will be similar is that they have both requested to go to Casa Paco. To El PIlon to see Dani & Loli. And to the Teteria.

Am I complaining. Never. .