Hello again. Hola!

Growing up August was family holiday time. In Wales the first two weeks in August was traditionally holiday fortnight. Though it may have been the last week of July and the first week of August ~ also known as miners fortnight when the mines closed down completely and the pit ponies were put out to grass for their summer holidays. Factories closed down as well. Generally growing up that was when we took the family holiday.

Now I’m retired every week is a holiday. Well. A holiday of sorts.

Hauser & Wirth

It’s been a funny old summer. We haven’t travelled very far, with both of us recuperating from various health issues.

I haven’t been hugely mobile which has been annoyingly restrictive and has meant no overseas trips. That is until now. To be fair trips have largely been limited to hospital, consultant , physio and chiropractor. Don’t even ask about A&E.

It’s been over 3 months since we were last in Spain. For months I’ve been in pain from a prolapse disc and walking hasn’t been easy. And despite my vanity I succumbed to a walking stick. Of course it had to be a flowery one.

The consultant and the physio said that they were surprised I wasn’t in more pain. Ha. More pain. Whilst the pain has now subsided to an manageable level, I had to tell them that was enough. So it’s been a mad old summer. And one we missed in Spain.

Not that I wouldn’t have been complaining if we had been able to travel. The heat here has been hideous ~ and there have been enough people complaining.

But we are back. It’s September.

As Tom said ‘ the old town looks the same ‘ but it has changed a bit. The roundabout that’s actually a roundabout has had structures and a water feature added and a welcome to Competa sign.

There’s been a fake house put up where I believe the donkey will be placed. Not a real one. The real one is on the other side of the valley. Braying daily. ( the donkey has in fact now returned)

Pueblo Blanco Competa

Welcome home

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. I bloody love this place. I still get that buzz of excitement when I arrive at the gate. Still grumble ‘ which key is it’ on the set of jail size keychain. Still think that path needs a sweep.

Up the garden path

The windey path does need a sweep but the plants look like they have survived remarkably well during the heat wave.

Yes. They do get a bit of water but not from the irrigation system which has been turned off. Friends check the house and water for us amongst a whole raft of other things. We would be lost without them.

Back to the irrigation – A tree rat ~ like a squirel ~ chewed one of the plastic pipes in the garden and bearing in mind the irrigation came on only for a very short time at night it resulted in us having a hideous water bill.

More for one quarter than we pay in 3/4 years ~ total.

The gardener knew we were arriving and had been in and had cut the hedge. Had shaped the olive tree and had cut the roundabout that’s not a roundabout as well as the rear banks. None of which I am safe to do these days. I’d end up rolling down the hill to the main road and beyond. Not a pretty sight. Me. Not the banks as they look great.

The roundabout that’s not a roundabout
The roundabout that’s not

Can I just say the gardener isn’t in daily or weekly and does the jobs I can’t. His knowledge is brilliant and he knows the plants that should and will grow well.

When we moved in the path was a stunning lavender path which was coming to the end of its days. I tried hard to keep it but it had had its day. The problem was that it hadn’t been cut back regularly and you can’t cut back into old wood. Though I tried.

I replanted. It didn’t work so I’ve planted grasses along with creeping rosemary which is fantastic. Thanks to seeing posts from Pepperpot herbs who sell it in the Uk and from whom I have bought some for Somerset.

Rosemary and grasses
Down the garden path

A few years ago I asked for the olive tree to be pruned. When asked whether I wanted it pruned for olives or looks I said both. Which whilst typical for me it was the wrong answer. It could be one or the other.

We did get a decent crop of olives which when black I would pick, prick and dry salt them. That’s if we were here ~ and it’s a tedious job.

Otherwise they would just drop and make a mess. So shape it was.

Olives and curry

Topiary olive tree

Am I happy. You bet I am. It’s now really taking shape. Pun intended.

Curry topiary

You can now get a strong whiff of curry as you walk up the path past the olive tree. I planted three curry plants under the olive in the raised circular bed and have quickly tidied them up ~ but my attempt at topiary is rough. Just don’t ask me to trim your hair.

There’s obviously been a bit of calima ~ winds and red dust blown over the tables and chairs. Adds ‘ a clean’ to my list.

The agapanthus are over and the seed heads heavy. Some have seed heads. Some don’t. I’m sure someone will tell me why.

Just like the oleander. Some have spectacular long seed heads which when open are fluffy. That’s the correct technical term. Right?

Oleander seed heads
Foxtail agave

I love the foxtail agave which I’ve mentioned once or twice before. It’s a plant that keeps on giving. Young plants have grown alongside which have been replanted elsewhere in the garden. Once the agave flowers the plant dies. This one is over ten years old and I’m hoping it doesn’t flower.

Plumeria

The plumeria/frangipani has flowered well again, I know I haven’t been here but I get photos of what’s flowering. Both are still in flower. . The yellow has a better scent ~ as long as you stick your nose up close. But the colours zing.

Yellow plumeria
Stephanotis

I smile when I look at many of the plants growing in the garden. This is one of them and I have grown it as an indoor plant. The waxy white flowers of the stephanotis. Not enough flowers for a bridal bouquet so Ian fear not. It’s in a large pot, a bit woody but has been flowering for over 8 years. Not continually obviously.

Another plant growing outside is a Swiss cheese plant. In Olden days – my childhood – popular indoor plants included the rubber plant , the Swiss cheese plant and a purple tradescantia. We have the latter two growing in the Mediterranean garden in Cómpeta. I never liked them indoors but they are tolerated in the garden. Unlike the clivia which was an indoor plant in my office which I loved in a pot so I and am happy to have a dozen in the gate bed.

Jasmine sambac

We have 4 different jasmine dotted around the garden. This one is sambac ~ highly scented and one that is used in perfume and tea ~ an evergreen which is grown in a large pot. We also have jasmine azoricum ~ a lemon scented jasmine rambling over some black railings. It is a bit woody but a great scent. There’s a scraggy white one which I’m not sure of its name but it springs up everywhere.

One that’s in so many gardens here and in the uk ~ the star jasmine the one I can’t spell without copying it. Trachelospermum jasminoides which is ok in this garden but not a mad grower.

I’d forgotten the yellow winter jasmine which grows like fury. But it is a harsh yellow with no scent. I know. I want everything. Colour. Shape perpetual flowing and importantly scent. Fickle. Me. Yes.

I have seen a really lovely yellow with much larger flowers growing furiously down a wall in the village. I might borrow a cutting next time I pass.

Aeonium

This aeoniun was a broken limb from one I have in a pot. Shoved in the ground hoping for the best and ignored. It has, along with a few others taken off. It always reminds me of aliens. I have no idea why.

Grewia
Grewia

I’d forgotten about this. Planted in what I call mozzie avenue at the side of the house it’s another straggly plant but has such a beautiful flower. I had to recheck it’s name.~ Grewia occidentalis a shrubby plant that can be grown as a shrub or a small tree. Really pretty purple flowers. My friend Google tells me it beats fruits and it’s common name is Cross berry. Who knew? I didn’t. I’m shallow. I just liked its look.

Mozzie alley

Heaven
Competa sunsets
Plaza almijara

I’d like to say that’s it’s not all been gardening or house stuff. Or paying bills.

But unusually we haven’t been off the mountain the whole time we have been this visit.

Am I complaining. Never. It’s been lovely catching up with our Spanish friends and catching up on the news of the last 3 months. It won’t be as long until the next trip. Dates and Tickets booked.

But first is a visit to Madrid.

Back home to Somerset to a log fire, long trousers and no mozzies.

Competa

Buenos Días

Hello again hello. Or. Hola de nuevo, hola! We are back in Spain.

First things first. How did Ian book a flight that arrived in Malaga past midnight. I suspect it was cheap. Thinking it was mid half term week it may not be busy. Fail. It was packed. How come half of the South Sest children weee flying to Malaga mid week of Half term. With two hen parties. Not actually with them but on the flight.

Some of the party trying to stiff a carry on into the Easy jet measuring box and managed only when they tore off the wheels. Two of the party arriving in departures looking like they had their hair in curlers. Ian said they put on a face mask. I’m not sure if that was on the flight or in the departures hall. How did I miss it. Once boarded I put my mask on over my eyes and turned to Spotify.

What you can’t ignore or hide is the double chin.

I won’t mention the fiasco on picking up the hire car , but I was partially happy when they asked if I could drive an automatic. Which meant an upgrade.

We arrived home at 2am. That’s the last time that will happen. I’ve been a zombie most of today.

I didn’t even look at the garden when we arrived. That’s a first. This week 8 years ago we completed on the house. We were at Chelsea flower show when we got the news. I still get the same feeling when I arrive as I did the first time. Utter joy. I have probably mentioned before this place is everything I didn’t want. I wanted a bolt hole in the village. No garden. No pool. Walk to the restaurants. Ian saw this and said you must see it. I didn’t want to. 10 mins drive out of town. A large garden and a bit of useless land. A small pool. One bedroom less than I wanted. But once through the gates and up the curved path to the terrace I was hooked. Ian said then and reminds me often ‘ you don’t even need to see inside do you’

The view to the malaga coast and in autumn winter with the right light to Morocco did it. Along with the garden. So it’s Ian’s fault.

It didn’t take me long to take stock of where we are in the garden. We were last here in March and there have been a lot of changes Things come and go quickly. The freesia which were pretty spectacular this year have gone over. The agapanthus are starting to get fat flower buds. The banksia rose is almost over. The honeysuckle is sending out a delicous scent along with the jasmine azoricum in full flower with its sweet scent. Smaller dainty flowers than most.

Pellie Path

The path from the garden past the garage is covered with scented pelargoniums which have grown huge with the autumn and winter rains. The benefit of these is that as you brush past there is that waft of citrus. Which mozzies hate. Whilst they love me. The mozzies. Not the pellies .

Round the corner we have both creeping and upright rosemary lolling over the path. With grasses in the mix.

Rosemary
Rosemary and grasses.

When we moved in the path was a gorgeous lavender path. But after the first two years we replanted a new one. The old one was rarely pruned so what we had was unruly woody stems. Sad to say the replant failed so we resorted to rosemary instead. More robust. More reliable and I love the creeping variety. thanks to Pepper Pot herbs for the heads up on that one.

Strelitzia Nicolai
Strelitzia Reginae

Sometimes we are lucky ~ we may see one or the other. This week we have both. I love the black blue and white of Nicolai. Its a really majestic plant.

Pineapple Guava

Such a pretty flower and this year the small tree is covered. Whether they will tun into fruit is another question. A friend staying a few years ago said that she thought the fruit tasted like germolene. I kind of get it. I hate the smell of germolene and don’t even mention TCP.

Pellies
Geraniums

These two pots were planted up 18 months ago and have been flowering ever since. But this month they are pretty spectacular.

The scented pellies were planted last summer.

Fern

We have a number of these dotted around the terrace and outside the garage doors. This one is in direct sunlight at the hottest part of the day. Yet it’s grown massive. A consolation for the tree ferns we left behind in London

Bottlebrush

A friend of mine said she thought that the bottle brush was common. I like it. A lot. It brings a great splash of colour to the border behind the house and it’s a huge bee magnet. Anything that can attract the bees is good with me. Another plant that could have done with a good prune in earlier years.

Bank at the rear of the house

We have a number of pine trees on the bank ~ apparently protected ~ not that I’d want to get rid of them. Except for the needle drop! Oh and the processionary caterpillar nests.

Aloe Maculata on the bank as well as in the side borders.

Great to see them en masse in flower this year.

Aloe aloe

Olive tree and curry plant

Both of the above need shaping. I’ll wait until the curry plant has finished flowering. The gardener is in charge of the the olive tree. I’m not allowed.

Seating

Set around pots of agapanthus, ferns, society garlic and strelitzia the garden seating has been set up. Until there’s a mad rush to bring in the cushions.

One of my favourite plants continues to grow bigger and bigger. The gorgeous foxtail agave.

Foxtail agave

I’ve taken the baby plants and planted 5 at the rear of the house. Tomorrows another day and I’ll check them then.

Viva España ‘25

It’s been a while. 6 months to be exact. We have had a lot going on which meant planning was pretty impossible for a trip to Spain. But things have settled down now ( sort of ) and we are settled in Somerset. Which shouldn’t be a surprise as it’s not a new place for us. Though after 30 odd years we are still not from down ‘ere. I can say that we do have family there though. Grandad who’s not our grandad ~ pushing it ~ but god children count don’t they ?

Like a film set

Nothing like an early start ~ a 6.15 flight. There’s a first time for everything and this ramp to board the plane was one of them. Thankfully we were so far back we were on the tail wing. And only had the normal stair. The bonus for us is that we can manage with a small bag so we can wait until nearly every one boards. Without the pushing and shoving to squeeze a cabin bag into the overhead lockers.

Are we there yet ?

The other good thing about an early flight is that you have the whole day when you arrive. Well almost- obviously.

Welcome home

I’ve said it before I always have a feeling of joy when I arrive at the house. 8 years later this hasn’t dimmed at all. This time we were greeted with an explosion of colour at the gate. The mimosa that has sprouted from old dead remains has gone bonkers. A piercing acid yellow blob of flowers hanging low by the gate. Buzzing with bees. Heavy in scent and lethal in pollen.

Down the garden path

I’ve said it before but I repeat myself. Often. When we completed on the house the gate had no lock. It should have been done before I arrived but me being me got the call at the Chelsea flower show that completion had gone through and two days later I was here. Impatient. Me ?

On my first morning I heard a noise at the gate and went to find that it had been taken off its hinges and was being loaded into the back of a van. My Spanish now isn’t great. But then it was all hola and gracias. In my Spanglish I worked out that they were taking the gate away to fit a lock ~ so I asked how long it would be away. Rudely I got two fingers. Before I said anything , though quite what I could say that they would understand was beyond me it clicked. It would be back in 2 hours. It was. On the dot. Lock fitted and hung.

I spy echiums

Before arriving back I’d been told that it had rained for weeks. There had been flash floods. The reservoirs were no longer a concern and that there was still water outing off the mountain. And through a spring in our garden somewhere. I’d been looking at the garden camera anyway watching the torrential rain battering the plants.

To be fair I wittered all the way up the mountain that I was staggered how green the land was. And it was. Greener than I had seen it in 8 years. But oh. The garden. Ignore the creeping weeds. It was looking fabulous.

Variegated yucca
Curved path

Things had grown. A lot. Scented pelargoniums along the path planted largely to deter mozzies had gone bonkers. Agapanthus springing up everywhere. Sadly three large yucca had become attacked by the nasty grub like beetle, which have devastated the large agave and are now on the attack on yucca. The grubs ~ All white and horrible. So a week later the yucca have been taken down. Whilst the light on the kitchen window flower bed is welcome the majestic form of the extra large yucca is sad to see go. Ian is planning what goes there next.

Rosemary and grasses

The yucca in the above photo are not the ones to have been removed. These are the rather lovely variegated yucca. They may have a year left although I was told that the bugs didn’t seem to be attacking the variegated type. Maybe they don’t taste as good. Who knows? We will see.

When we bought the house the windy path was edged with lavender. A gorgeous sight and scent but over the years the pruning had diminished and we all know that pruning into old wood is a no no. I replanted with new lavender to no success. So I looked for an alternative. Bowled over by a path at Ulting Wick which had gaura ~ I tried that. But that didn’t work here in Spain. I then planted a mix of grasses and creeping and upright rosemary and that has done wonders. Friends who help keep an eye on the house and water the garden call them triffids. The rain and heat has certainly brought them on. The rosemary. Not the friends.

Creeping Rosemary

Don’t look at the path. It needs a clean but I’m waiting for the sun to burn off as much as it can before I start.

Shaped olive

The olive tree is in the process of being shaped. It will continue < when asked if I wanted it cut for olives or shape I of course said both. Not possible. One or the other. So I chose the other. Now it’s beginning to take shape. I asked today whether the one I have planted in a large pot should be replanted into the ground. Where do you want to live. The campo or in an apartment. Which meant the ground. So it will be planted.

Foxtail agave

There are a number of foxtail agaves dotted around the garden. Some taken from the mother plant and replanted. Others brought in by the gardener to fill gaps. They are one of my favourite plants but just as long as they don’t throw out the long flower. Then they will die.

Purple and yellow

I said this was Durante Repens in one of my Instagram posts. I lied. It’s not. It’s Hardenbergia ~ Australian wisteria. which was cut to the ground two years ago and is once again flowering like crazy and enticing the bees to party. Against the yellow of the mimosa and the blue of the sky it’s a beauty.

Curry plant

The topiary of the curry plant ~ I don’t know how it happened but it did. It had grown straggly so I just clipped it and continue to do it. Let’s be honest ; the flowers are insignificant anyway. But in the really hot months you do get the whiff of curry as you walk up the path. Not to everyone’s taste but at least o didn’t do a curry path.

The succulent has sat on this table since September and is a glorious colour. It also looks pretty good. From the front. Look at the back and you see its stuffed in a green pot plonked in the urn. Just don’t look. Don’t judge. !

Tea and biscuits
Freesia

I have previously planted freesia from Peter Nyssen in both pots and in borders. It’s hit and miss whether I see them of not as many years we are not here when they bloom. But this year they are amazing. The colours of both the single and the doubles look fabulous. An overrated word but one that sums these up.

Yellow

The scent is gorgeous and they always make me think of the lovely Karen Lynes at PN who has been the best example of customer service ever. Karen and a dear friend Enid who used to come and check the house and always go away with enough for a small vase. Tony, Enid’s husband continues the tradition. I always teased her she was stealing my flowers.

Underrated.

A very underrated plant in this garden is the osteospenmum < with some brutal dead heading you’ll get flowers for months and they spread. It’s a win win situation.

Ferns

I’ll repeat myself say this again ~ this shouldn’t happen. These ferns are in full sunlight in all winds and weathers but especially the brutal heat of the summer. Fed a little. Watered. Tidied~ they have grown massive. Two at the end of the path and three outside the garage doors. All doing magnificently.

It’s not been all weeding and looking at plants. We have ventured off the mountain. To the coast of Nerja. To Algarrobo costa for lunch.

Coastal

There will be more gardening. More trips to the coast. Eating out and hopefully the continuing sunshine.

Hopefully it won’t be another 6 months before we are back.

Viva España ‘24

In the words of that well known popular song ~

Oh, this year I’m off to sunny Spain Y Viva españa

I’m taking the costa brava plane Y Viva españa

Well we have arrived. But to the Costa del Sol not Brava

A late flight delayed by an hour pushing our arrival in Malaga after midnight. I slept the whole way, as I can sleep anywhere.

What is it with boarding a plane. A mad rush to stuff as much luggage that you can into the overhead locker whilst blocking the aisles so people can’t take their seats. Luckily we can just take a small bag along to be shoved under the seat.

We arrived at casa verano at 2.30am not meeting any vehicles either up or down the mountain.

Altitude

It’s been a while since we have been here and it was obviously dark when we arrived so garden inspection had to wait.

Up the garden path

It’s been a hot summer. And dry but surprisingly the garden has fared well. Thanks to the help we have when we aren’t here. Yes. A few things singed to an inch of their life. Some beyond. The echiums which were magnificent this year are like firewood. Dry as anything. I suspect they won’t return. Maybe that’s why I have bought two this week as replacements.

The old olive tree.

The gardener asked me two years ago how I wanted the olive pruned. For fruit or shape. Me being me and wanting it all replied both. Nope. One of the other you can’t have both. Mind you it was in Spanish so he could have been saying anything. I replied shape. So he has been shaping it each time it has been pruned. To be fair I love it and it’s a great statement piece in the garden. It’s also stopped me moaning about the ripe olives dropping on the terrace and being squashed when we aren’t here and leaving stains. It also means I can’t dry salt the olives. But they are a plenty around here

Curry plant

Who knew you could do a bit of topiary on the curry plant. There are 3 under the olive and on a whim I trimmed them into shape earlier in the year. On a hot day you get a whiff of curry as you walk up the path. Something different to lavender.

Curry anyone ?

Happy to see that the Durante Repens is in flower. I often miss it as in miss it as it flowers when we aren’t here. That happens a lot. But the good thing is I get sent photos to keep me updated.

Durante Repens.

I need to give it a bit of a prune. As I do a lot of things. It’s just remembering when ~ makes a note in book


Urginea maritima

Oh the joy of being in the right place at the right time. When I was here last the leaves of the sea squill had died back. Right back to the bulb and I thought here we go again. I’ve missed the flower. Hmm. Silly boy – I remembered it only flowers after the leaves die back. I’d planted a few a few years back and they took a while to settle. They sulked a bit. No flowers. So it was a joy to see not just one but four in different stages of flower. The flower spikes are tall and elegant coming from a big fat bulb. One of the biggest I have planted ~ I may need more.

We have one large yucca which has been attacked by the same bug that has hit the large Agave – eats it from the root so often the first you know is when they topple over. It’s a I bummer as so many large plant have succumbed.

The variegated ones seem so far to have been spared. But I’m not counting chickens. Yet.

Foxtail Agave

One of my favourite plants in the garden ~ the foxtail agave. Small plants grow at the base of the mother plant and I have planted half a dozen in the bed at the back of the house. Dry as anything they have all taken and are all at various stages of growth. And so low maintainence.

New Strelitzia

Of course I have bought new plants. It would be wrong not to~ wouldn’t it ?

This one is strelitzia Mandela gold. A new one for me. Of course I bought two. We have a number of strelitzia reginae in the garden. But there is always room for more.

I think we missed the loquats. And the figs. Both roasted on the tree. Not the same one obv, but shrivelled.

Next batch

But the next batch of figs are appearing ~ maybe they will be ripe by the next trip. I could do with some good fig and ginger jam.

Chateau Verano

We have grapes. Singular as in one bunch which I will pick over the weekend. And eat. In previous years when we have had a decent harvest I’ve made grape and rosemary jelly. Not this year though. We also have a quince tree. Which has one remaining quince. Roasted on the tree as well so no Quince and Rosemary jelly this year.

I’ve tried to work on a border a day. It never works as I start with great intentions then move on to the next border and back to the one I started yesterday. A bit like a butterfly.

This is mozzie alley. Alongside of the house where I’m guaranteed to get bitten. Part sunny part shady. Full on mozzie territory.

Almond trees

I have wandered around the back of the house in singularly unattractive old yoga kinda leggings. There are still mozzies about who love my iron overloaded blood. I look like Max Wall. If you are too young to know what I’m talking about. Ask your parents.

We have maybe 5 or 6 almond trees. This year I haven’t picked any of the almonds. To be honest it’s a bit of a faff. Pick the drupe ( who knew). Remove the husk to find the nut. Then dry the nut to extract moisture or they go mouldy. All fine. All doable. The biggest issue. Cracking the dried nuts.

Pomegranate

Two months ago friends and neighbours from Somerset were visiting the area when I was here. That’s the first time we have coordinated our travel plans. They drove up the windey road for lunch which I was preparing. I had warned them it would be like having young children in the car with an ear worm. Are we there yet? How much further. The road. Makes me feel sick.

I decided on what I was cooking. Bought the fresh ingredients. All bar a pomegranate which could not be bought locally. I was looked at strangely and told to look on the tree. I’d see flowers. No local pomegranate. So I drove for an hour to the market in Malaga ~ not a huge issue as it’s fabulous and I could go alone and eat churros and have the sweetest cup of coffee ever * cafe bonbom. Coffee. Hot milk and condensed milk. So sweet you only want one.

I bought a huge pomegranate ~ obviously imported. If you asking it was a

Ballymaloe red quinoa tabouleh

with toasted pine nuts. And pomegranate.

Why am I wittering on. I know it’s usual but there is a point. Today I found not one but two pomegranates on two trees in the garden. In 7 years we haven’t had one. It must be a sign.

Particularly great timing for a new moon bearing my mind the lack of harvest. A glorious Harvest Moon.

I haven’t crossed the road to the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. But I will. I’ve briefly looked at the pine trees and they look fine ~ to be honest would I really know?

I’ve been clearing one of the flower beds and I have planted the new strelitzia. Weeded. Moved two clivia ~ in the wrong place ~ brought some agapanthus pots around and have two new shrubby kind of plants to add over the weekend. We have had a weather warning for an overnight storm so it will make planting easier. Hopefully I won’t need the pick axe. I’m not joking.

We had planned a day out to Ronda but I had read in the Spanish paper that Netflix were filming there for the week at various locations in the town. So it was a no go. Too many restrictions and probably too many people.

So in a whim we decided late in the day to drive to Antequera. An hour and a half away.

The rain in Spain

We arrived in sunshine parked the car and started walking to the cultural sights. Where it chucked it down. Not forecast. Not dressed for rain and who wants to get wet and your hair to go curly ~ so we stopped for lunch and watched other people get wet.

Wet wet wet

Like many Spanish towns the walk to the Alcazar is up steps. Many many steps. With my dodgy back and sciatica it takes longer than it should. But there’s always time to stop and look and whip out the camera which is brought along as well as the phone camera.

View from the steps

The narrow streets

Thankfully a one way street ~ don’t mention the time we drove through Setenil de las Bodegas with its narrow streets, with houses emerging from boulders and cave restaurants. At one point as I was driving through whilst breathing in and as it got narrower I was on the point of abandoning the car.

View to the Torcal

A wander up those steps to the alcazabar and Iglesia del Carmen. Ian in charges of the tickets and he asks for one standard and one for an old person. In Spanish ~ and the tickets are handed over. Whilst I’m happy for a discounted ticket I am disappointed I don’t get asked for proof of age.

The usual view

The views of the town town are spectacular from so many viewing points and the added bonus is that Antequera is a hidden gem. No crowds.

High on a hill

Half woman half serpent

This was part of a float in the church. How scary.

Tarasca ~ half serpent. Half lady used in the Corpus Christi procession. You would t want to meet it in the dark though.

We had planned to go to one of Spain’s many Unesco world heritage sights Antequerra Dolmans

but realised it closed at 3pm. That means we have to go back which is t a hardship. It’s well worth a visit.

So it’s been back to the garden. Supper with friends. More gardening. Tomorrow is a visit to the bank with money laundering documentation. Not to enable me to do it. But the standard regular check up on where funds come from. I’m practicing my Spanish but will take Ian with me.

Yes. Spain have actual banks ~ 3 in the pueblo banco but we will be driving down the wiggly road to ours.

One thing for sure before we head back to Somerset. There will be more ice cream.

Here and there!

It’s been a funny few weeks. Or months to be honest. Who said retirement would be boring. Who told me I would be bored within six months. Well. I have just celebrated 8 years since I hung up my suit. To be honest I’m not sure where the time has gone. The had been a lot of water under the bridge in that time as well as through the house.with the flood which could have been worse in May. We are still without flooring as the contractors had difficulty getting the floor up. So new contractors were involved. They came and reviewed. Then went away. Two months later they were back to review again and a date was booked to remove the floor.

In the meantime we ordered the floor ( as in ordered the materials) and paid the deposit. To be told. There is a 12 week lead time. Then two weeks ago we found out that the company who were local and been trading since the 70’s had gone bust. A week after we had paid the deposit. Nothing like being told at 4.45 on a Friday. So the saga continues. We then cancelled a week away as the weather forecast was pants. The ground in Somerset was ready to plant rice and the river was high. Thankfully it stayed where it should be.

Bored yet. To be honest I’m bored talking about it. We have a date for the floor to be removed. I have yet not plucked up the enthusiasm to go and see the alternative suppliers which will now have an even longer lead time as they will be picking up the other work as well.

But it gave me time to enjoy the final days of the plants in the garden at the cottage and wait for the first frosts to kill off the coleus pots and the geraniums. This took a while. But when it did it did it quickly. The coleus have been pretty remarkable this year and I had forgotten how much I led the colours. It was probably in the 1970’s ~ 80’s since I last grew them. They will be the staple of the summer pots again next year. Another bonus was that this year there were no poo bags casually thrown into the pots by people walking by. We had removed an old water pump from the front which had been stuffed with poo bags and rubbish. I was lucky as I had said that if it continued there would be no tulips and that would be s**t. Apologies but my language was pretty ripe when having to clear the mess.

Back to nicer things. The canna have been brilliant this year. the new ones have done well and flowered earlier than the ones I left in the ground. To be honest I wasn’t sure they had survived but survive they did. It took the canna Annei a long time to get going but it reached over 5 ft and flowered just before the first frost. This isn’t Annei.

But when it’s over it’s over. The first frost had the leaves. The canna will be cut back. In the meantime I emptied half of the compost from each of the 15 large tulip pots and mulched the canna. Just as well as the temperatures then dropped liked the proverbial stone.

Have I said I like tulips maybe once or a thousand times. So the pots were emptied. Well half each pot was. Then planted up.

As usual I had a plan. A list of all the tulips of which there were many. The number. The height. The colour. When they would flower. And a suggestion of a planting plan for 15 large pots.

Guess what? The plan lasted all of 2 pots. Then I freestyled. So it will be another year of what the lovely Karen at Peter Nyssen calls my “dolly mixture planting” But they are in. I have yet to plant the ones in London. There aren’t any for Spain this year. Last years were a bit as they say on my Saturday night entertainment show a bit of ‘ a disaster darling’

Back in London my attention turned to the tree ferns. They said it was getting colder. Threats of snow. Frost. We were going away for a week. I had put straw in the crowns a week before and sometimes I fleece. Sometimes I don’t. Thankfully I had fleece and the 5 tree ferns are all fleeced. Though I suspect Cybil the resident squirrel will steal parts of each one to make the dray. Last year it was in the large jasmine.

Note to self. Remember to change over the straw if there’s been rain and a heavy frost. It will ice up.

Now it’s Spain where we haven’t been for a while. It’s always a kind of a surprise how we will find the garden. I know. Through the gate is a good start. We do get photos of the garden when we aren’t here which is hugely appreciated. Bearing in mind the weather we have had in Spain with extreme heat and very little rainfall the garden is looking pretty good. Very good. The temperatures have now dropped. There has been sprinklings of rain and on Friday before we arrived it chucked it down. It has also rained a fair bit since.

It’s pretty green. We do have it watered once a week albeit Sparingly. I’ve never appreciated water as much as I do now. ~ back in the uk we take it for granted. We open a tap and out it comes. Both hot and cold. This summer there was a directive from the council. We would have water every three days. In reality sometimes we went 5 days. We should have had it on day 3 but the houses above us had their water deposits topped up first. Then the system overheats. So we don’t get water. A phone call to the town hall and a man on a scooter ( not blowing his hooter) drives to wherever and switches the supply. We then get water. In summer with a high influx of visitors there is a huge demand but thankfully we have a water deposit which can keep us going. I digress. As is usual. I reminded Ian of the 1976 slogan when there were water shortages. ‘Save water. Bath with a friend’. He was not amused. He said save water. Shower by yourself.

Thankfully the grasses have survived in the windey path and are doing really well. Along with the creeping rosemary. I still dream of my lavender path and at some point it may be replanted. But the rosemary does so much better in the dry conditions.

The olive tree is coming along nicely. It’s ancient and we had to make the decision to have it pruned. Either for fruit. Or looks. So we have gone for looks and it’s being shaped and I am really pleased with it. Especially as I’m not the one doing the shapes. It gave us some great olives but it’s only one tree and in the past I have picked and salted them but to be honest it’s a a faff. So I went for looks. Shallow I know.

Excitement. The huge bulbs of Urginea maritima (sea squill) are back again. They throw out the leaves and eventually die back in the summer only to throw out the white spires of flowers in Autumn. Usually when we aren’t here.

The autumnal colours of the dodonea look amazing with the reds. The foliage is the best and the flowers are pretty insignificant.

Many of the pines locally have died off over the last 12 months. A mix of a low water table and some kind of disease. I am so happy that these are still on the drybbank at the entrance to the house. I love them. Except for the pine needles and the procession art caterpillars. Two years ago we cleared the needles from under the trees. 2024 looks like it will happen again. But not around processionary caterpillar season. I also need to get them gently pruned. and any dead wood cut out. Adds to list.

It’s been a week of all seasons. We arrived after heavy rain. Enough sun another day to be in the garden. But today the mist and fog came rolling in from the coast and up to the hills and the valley. It gives a lovely eerie light.

There has been some gardening. A bit of a fork over of the ground to allow the rain to sink in rather than roll off the top. It’s been a while since I’ve seen the ground so wet which made a perfect opportunity to do a bit of planting. A few echium to add to the ones I bought a year ago. I planted 6 opposite the garage and I’m pleased that 5 have survived. Another four planted in the area in front of the garage beds.

I also took the plunge and removed the small baby foxtail agaves from the large parent agave in a pot and have planted them at the rear of the house. It’s a dry area and the 3 new ones have been added to the 4 I planted last year which have grown well.

More rain is forecast. But not the deluges that we are getting in the UK especially the Somerset garden. I’m thinking of using the garden to grow rice. It’s that wet.

I love this time of year in Andalucia ~ although this week has been a bit colder and wetter there have still been some great sunsets. I bore myself with the photos ~ there’s a need to review and delete.

The light at sunset if fabulous and the wall of glass in the casa gets a glorious colour wash when the sun goes down. Ian brought a lot of glass across in his suitcase when we first bought the house. He was bolder than me and packed some delicate pieces.

He only had one time when he was questioned about what he had packed. He had gone through security. Bag checked in. After a while he had his name come over security. Please return to check in. He couldn’t as he was the other side so he found a security guy to take him through the back areas. To be questioned.

What’s this.? It’s a large piece of glass. And this. It’s solar lights for the garden. And these. Tea bags. He had to admit that on the scanner the combination looked suspect. But it shows that security does work.

Back in the summer we commissioned a local artist who was showing in the Cómpeta Art walk to do two portraits of us. She has surprised us with a picture at the art walk which we saw when we visited the exhibition and loved it. it’s now ready to go on the wall when we can stop disagreeing where it’s going.

She has now shown us the two individual ones which are being framed. We love them and they will also go on the wall. The trouble is we are running out of space for the black and white prints I have finally had the courage to be printed and framed.

She has included the love of glass in Ian’s and in mine the background is tulips.

Have I ever mentioned glass and tulips before.!

I haven’t included the joint picture as a copy has been used this year as our Christmas card ~ rather self indulgent I know but it’s too fabulous not to share.

As we prepare to leave to head back to a busy few weeks in the uk the pueblo blanco is preparing for the Christmas festivities.

The lights are going up. The restaurants are booked for Xmas and New year and the village is adorned with red poinsettia. Along the walls of La rampa ~ outside houses. We went to a garden centre in the week and it’s just not red that’s available. The colours are all there and the standard poinsettia are brilliant.

It will be a few weeks before we return. There’s bulbs to plant in London. A sitting room floor to be sorted ~ and colder and wetter weather to return to.

But. Feliz Navidad will be playing in the car along with all of the other festive tunes !

Managing a Spanish Garden

I admit it. I’m never happy. It’s either too hot or too cold. Too dry or too wet. Just as well i garden where I get it all. Greedy? Yes. Happy no. What I would like is a little bit more or less in each place. The garden in Somerset and in London has been wet. So wet in Somerset we were flooded in May. So hot in Spain that many of the plants were scorched. We had water restrictions. Officially one day off. One day on. But let’s remember we are 2,000 ft up the mountain with ups and downs for the Water to flow to get to us. In reality on the On days we may only get a dribble at the end of the day. Thankfully we have a large deposit which keeps us going.

So as I said. I’m never happy and in true British style talk about the weather.

But as we arrived after about an absence of 7 weeks the heavens opened. But only just after I had soaked the ground. It rained for two days.

That rain dance certainly worked. Whilst Somerset and London sweltered in the highest temperatures sent from The Mediterranean.

To be honest I was surprised at how well the garden had fared. Yes. It’s watered twice a week in parts. In others it’s do or die. Some plants had shrivelled in the heat. Two out of four echium had died. The others around them were a bit sad but with the rains th de ey perked up. The weather changed and the temperature dropped a good few degrees.

A bed of agapanthus had given up and the leaves had shrivelled back. But once cleared and the rains had soaked the ground they looked refreshed.

I may have lost a few which is disappointing but I did have replacements which had been delivered in pots and put in a shaded area at the end of July. Our local Viveros Florena closes for August and there’s an all mighty sale. Lorraine messaged me and said I know you aren’t around but is there anything you want. Somehow 8 large agapanthus, 8 smaller agapanthus black buddhist and two others appeared in the garden.

If I thought I’d be making quince jelly this year I needed to think again. There was one quince tree and anything that was left were cooked. On the tree.

But we did have grapes. Enough for a feast for two days. But the vine will come out and be replaced this year with two new ones. It’s had it’s day.

The olive tree is being pruned to give a topiary shape. I was asked how I wanted it cut. For fruit or looks. I said both. He said you can’t so I decided that the olives just drop when we aren’t there. I often salt cure them and then don’t eat them all. So shape it will be. It’s under planted with 3 curry plants which i I have previously cut back hard. I lost the flowers but they are a bit insignificant anyway. It needs cutting again. I think I’ve said that I was going to plant up the path with them. They are hard workers but the scent of curry on a hot August day as you walk up the path was a little off putting.

The area at the back of the casa gets the least care and attention. And the least water. There have been two losses of significance. A newly planted bottle brush and of all things that have died. A Buddleja. How on earth did that happen. I thought buddleja were as tough as old boots. But even the toughest need some water until we’ll established.

There are few large agave left around the garden and a further 3 have succumbed to whatever eats them from the roots and makes them die. So they have been cleared away. Any new ones that start sprouting will be pulled too. It’s not worth the hassle. I need to keep the bugs away.

But I have planted 5 new foxtail agave from the pot of the large agave ~ they take easily and will suit this space.

The large foxtail has done well in this pot. I have taken at least 6 away from here and planted them around the garden. Slow growing so they will probably be heee long after I am not.

After the rain the area below the olive tree and the curry plants is looking well. I love the variegated yucca in the centre which is growing fast and furious. In a yucca kind of way.

A second flush on the Durante repens. It’s such a lovely colour and brings a great joy to what is a difficult area.

I couldn’t resist this – I have tried to break the habit of plant buying but somehow it’s a losing battle. But it’s a glorious colour with a light scent. Unlike the yellow below whose scent is strong.

Both great plants in pots for the terrace. But I’ve decided. No tulip pots this year. They were pants in last years heat.

I know I’m mean but if there was one plant I wouldn’t miss it’s the Swiss cheese plant. A staple house plant growing up along with a rubber plant, Xmas cacti and maidenhair ferns I never expected to have one in the garden. But then again I didn’t always imagine having a garden in Spain. But it’s survived the summer again despite being planted in the wrong place.

The cactus that is not a cactus as usual survived. It’s cactus like after all. Even if it’s a euphorbia.

I’ve been trying to save this plant for the last 6 years. Most have been ravaged by the cochineal fly and wither and die. I have hosed off the fly as they appear and this one’s not in bad shape. Good enough to produce ‘chumbo’ as they are known in Spain. Edible fruits. Not tried by me.

There’s a flurry of pests and diseases going through Spain. The latest is hitting some of the pine trees. So far we have been lucky. We have 5 on the dry bank and they are doing ok despite the heat and the lack of rain. The water table is pretty low too at the moment and I have crossed everything.

With the heavy rain came softer ground which meant I could plant. First a new strelitzia Nicolai to match the one on the path by the gate. Ian likes structural planting so I try and keep him happy. That way I can sneak in other plants whilst he’s not looking.

6 years later I still love this gate. Ian said I knew as soon as we went through the gate it was the casa for us. He was right then and he is still right.

It wasn’t all gardening and socialising. We did have a few trips down to the coast. An evening down the wiggly line to Algarrobo Costa. To a small chiringuito on the beach ~ tourists had largely gone. A lovely meal and a fabulous sunset. And a great photo opportunity.

Sándwiches anyone. Where’s the flask of tea. No it isn’t us before you ask. Two people on the beach as we walked along the promenade. But as I say to Ian ~ it could be us. And probably will be.

Talking of sunsets it’s the time of year for the amazing Cómpeta sunsets. Something I don’t think I will ever tire of.

We also took three nights away. A 2.5 hour drive to Jaén an area known for its olive trees. Some 60 million of them which produce 23% of the worlds olive oil. That’s a lot of oil!

Olive trees as far as the eye can see. It’s pretty spectacular.

We stayed in Jaén and did a day visiting Úbeda and Baeza ~ both UNESCO world heritage sites. Both are very Italian renaissance and Baeza was my favourite. Both have beautiful buildings.

I was so tempted by the beautiful pottery in Úbeda. But I resisted. Maybe if it had had a plant in it.

Back to Cómpeta to the 14th Art walk where 49 artists and photographers exhibited their works. It’s a great celebration of the work by the local Artists. We were surprised to walk into one and find the work of Susan Brown on the wall of two people we knew. A fabulous take of an art deco interpretation of Ian and I. Needless to say it will find its way onto our wall.

I always love the black and white photos of Cómpeta Portraits. Dave Shannon takes what I call proper photos. You remember using 35mm film and he prints the photos himself. I owe a lot to Dave as he has encouraged me with my own photos.

So the garden has been left again. The heat has continued and the water tables in the reservoirs hasn’t improved.

Whilst in Somerset the rain continues, and I order this years tulip selections for London and Somerset.

Viva España.

It’s been a busy few weeks. We have been to Lisbon via Porto and then headed down to Spain to relax. Well relax and garden if I’m honest. It’s great to be back at Casa Verano especially as there has been some rain Quite a bit of rain to be fair. Some heavy downpours which have been great for the garden and hopefully has made some difference to the water table levels and the reservoirs. Not rain like in Somerset which I won’t mention again. But enough to make the garden here look green.

Casa verano eterno

I know I’ve said it before but if you read these blogs you’ll be familiar with things. I repeat myself often. But when we viewed the house 6 years ago I knew it was for us when we opened the gate and walked up the path. In many ways the house was irrelevant – the garden and the view sold it. Not withstanding I originally wanted a town house with no garden and a walk to the shops and restaurants. Fickle. Me. Yes. But give me a garden and I’m easily swayed.

It doesn’t take long to settle in. Washing machine on. Seat cushions out. Feet up and relax. Another thing on repeat is good neighbours. We arrive to the essentials stocked in the fridge. Milk for our coffee. Bread cheese ham and biscuits. And all the windows open and the hot water on.

But it’s the garden that has come on leaps and bounds since I was here a few weeks ago. The rain has certainly brought things to life. The garden has a lot of drought tolerant plants but even they need a boost. We have a gardener come in to do a lot of the cutting back of the larger shrubs and trees and he has cut back the oleander and the hideous transparente a lot this year. The extra light it gives is amazing. So many people are afraid to cut back hard but it has its benefits. Earlier in the year he cut a climber back on the gate and I was mortified. That will not grow back I said to Ian. It’s a goner. I promptly bought another. Which died back. The original has run away with itself and is thicker and stronger and healthier than before. I apologised. He knows what he’s doing. He told me an agave would be a goner with a month or two. He was right. We arrived back to the large agave in a pot laying on its side. The dreadful bug that has been attacking the agave from the roots had got the one in the pot. Which had now departed the pot and the garden.

Olive and curry

Another pruning earlier this year was the olive tree. How do you want it pruned I was asked. . For fruit or looks < both was my reply. You can’t have both. So I chose ornamental ~ and it’s being pruned and shaped. The olives are lovely but are usually ready when we aren’t. Stain the terrace like crazy and need constant sweeping. Oh. And to be honest how can I spend so much time in Spain and dislike olives so much.

Underneath are 3 curry plants which last year I shaped. I think they need it again this year as they are getting massive ~ on a warm day you get a whiff of curry as you walk past. I’m glad I didn’t replace the lavender with a whole path of curry. Instead of the lovely scent of a lavender path it would be like Brick Lane on a Friday night. If you’ve ever been. You’ll know what I mean.

Wet path

I’ve mentioned before the problem we have had with lavender on the path. I replaced the old lavender a few years ago and the new has never taken. I plant 20 plants and half of them don’t survive. I did it twice and had the same results so the year before last I planted Gaura which I loved but didn’t survive the cold winter so I planted grasses ( think ex PM hair or ex President ) which have survived and are looking great. Well I think they are.

Interplanted with creeping rosemary which is a great plant in the Mediterranean garden. Although last winter many of us lost large established plants.

Strelitzia Nicolai

I had asked friends to keep an eye on the ‘big plant’ by the gate and let me know if it flowered. When we bought the house I thought that it was a banana plant. Massive leaves. But I was very mistaken. It is a bird of paradise. It looked like it would flower when we left las time but it’s never flowered before. It did and I had fingers crossed that it would still be flowering when we got back. It was and still is. Along with another one on a different plant. They are beautiful and magnificent ~ strelitzia Nicolai. To me even more beautiful that their orange counterparts and a quite common sight along the coast in Torre del Mar.

The tulips had all gone over ~ well the ones that had actually started. Have I ever said I like tulips ? Tulips here are hit and miss for me. The ones planted in the white wall were ok. A big short. Like me. But to be fair it meant they didn’t get snapped in the wind. But the pots were pants. I say now no tulips next year but we will see. So it’s time for the trusty geraniums to be planted. I like them but can’t help feel they are a bit like municipal planting. But you get a zing of colour for the rest of the summer. And to be honest. I love them. It also reminds me of my mother ~ especially for her dead heading skills. A prolific dead header and it mattered not if it wasn’t her plants. She was a terror for walking up a path and deadheading. I find it therapeutic.

Throw in a bit if pink for the empty tulip pots and that’s all of the summer bedding in. Geraniums only.

Prickly pear.

I’m just off to wash my prickly pear I said to Ian. You don’t want to shout that out too loud was he’s quick reply. We have two in the garden both of which I have been trying to save from the dreaded Cochineal fly. When I am here it’s a hose down to get them off. It’s worked so far of a fashion and they are still alive and getting fruit. And flowers. Another plant that has been decimated in the area. It’s a sad sight driving up the mountain and seeing them dying.

Greenery

I love the variegated yucca and have both fingers and toes crossed that the bug eating the agave doesn’t start on them. A lot of palms are being decimated as well. Soon there will be no large plants around. Just to the bottom left of the photo is a hollyhock. I planted it about 3 years ago and it’s been stunted. All of a sudden it’s sprung into life and flower. There used to be a glorious show of them ~ lovely red colour on the road to the house. On the side of the road 2,000ft up the mountain. No water. Rough ground. But there are none this year. Winter was a funny old time. Low temperatures. Little rainfall. Plants lost. Some you expected to lose survived.

Pineapple guava ~ Feijoa sellowiana

The pineapple guava didn’t flower or fruit last year. It has this year although a lot of the flowers are small but there is some fruit forming. The fruit is a bit marmite. Not in taste but in liking. A friend who was staying a few years ago likened the taste to germolene. I could see what she meant though it’s not something I’ve ever really eaten. It’s one of two smells I can’t stand. That and TCP.

But the fruit is ok cut up in yoghurt. A friend recently posted some pics of one growing in a central London square. If I’d realised I would have potted one for the London garden. Too late now.

Níspero

Talking of the Loquat or the níspero ~ I love the size and shape of the leaves. The fruit I can live without. Which in this garden is just as well as it flowers then fruits and then they either drop off or shrivel. Good for Jam if you can catch them in time.

Jasmin Azoricum

We just caught get the last of the Jasmine Azoricum for now. A bit slow growing and a different growth than others. But a great scent. It’s an evergreen with white, lemon-scented flowers from late spring to late autumn though i find the flowering patchy. It’s supposed to be tender but it’s done ok here.

Drumstick Allium / Allium sphaerocephalon

Ve have had only two good years out of the last six when it comes to alliums. They have been really hit and mostly miss. Only the drumsticks ( Allium sphaerocephalon) do well and are popping up all over the garden. In places where I didn’t think I’d planted them. To be honest I hate planting them. The bulbs are too small. The ground is usually like cement when I’m trying and. there are some where I’ve probably just given up and thrown them around. But they do well.

I have one other large allium on the dry bank. In an area that’s not irrigated or gets water. Unless it rains. I noticed that it is in flower and tall. Quite how I don’t know when the ones in the beds have shrivelled and died.

Path bed.

A mix of aeonium , Clivia which are just finishing flowering, rosemary about to start , agapanthus and the leaves of the strelitzia in the path bed. The garden has benefitted from the earlier weeks rain and the couple of days rain when we arrived. But it won’t last. Temperatures are rising.

Oleander

The oleander had been cut back hard this year like a lot of things. I’m no longer nervous when I arrive back and things have had a massive haircut. I’m always told that there will be some cutting back though in Spain it’s described as cleaning rather than cutting. I’ve been told so many times how poisonous the oleander is. It’s is. But it’s very pretty and I try not to eat it. Wear gloves when pruning and never burn it.

Agapanthus.

The agapanthus always do well. Some better than others and the good thing is they self seed. There are varios colour from white through the blues to purple. I have to admit I add more each year. Not too much water require. Are perennial. Great flowers. Only thing missing is a scent.

Bougainvillea, Hollyhock,Lantana, Durante Repens

I love the period of mid May to the end of June in this garden. It’s at its most colourful which dies down in the hotter months of July and August with a bit of a comeback in September. It’s a bit like me. I find July and august too hot. My enthusiasm to di anything fades in the hotter months. In one of the lockdowns I spent most of August stuck in Spain. Too hot. Too many mosquitos. I’d go out for early breakfast. Shop. Come back home and close the shutters. Turn on the air con and sit and watch Netflix in my pants. Too much information I know. But it’s the reality. So now we avoid it. Spain in August. Not Netflix.

It wasn’t all gardening to be fair. There were trips down the wiggly road to Malaga to catch up with friends and shop. There was also the chance for churros and a coffee bombón. A coffee so sweet that you can only have one. Condensed milk on the bottom. A shot of espessso. Then frothy milk. Served in a glass cup. Looks pretty and then you stir it. Churros. Well. They are the Spanish equivalent for me of nata tarts. One is never enough.

There weee drives down the windey road to the coast. To Nerja. To La Herradura. Lunch in each. Not the same day obviously. A drive along the coast. The coastline is lovely.

Nerja
A drive along the coast.
La Herradura
Alone again

Oh. I forgot a drive down the windey road to Torre del Mar. The wiggly takes you to one coast. The windey to another. It’s the same coast just different directions but also dependent who’s in the car decides which of the roads we take. Some like wiggly. Some like windey. I don’t care. I’m driving. I’ll go down both. Depending on what I want out of each.

Torre del Mar

There were loads of photos ~ the usual photo of Ian. This time at night looking for ice cream. We found it. We have a great geleteria in Cómpeta.

Baywatch on the beach at Torre del Marr. No one was in the sea.

Baywatch

The lovely night view from the Cómpeta car park after a night out.

View from the car park

There was the obligatory cake. One cafe. One home made.

But in the blink of an eye it’s over for another time. In the words of Peter Paul & Mary. I’m leaving on a jet plane. Unlike them. I do know when I’m back again. And I’m not counting sheep ? Tho Grandad is shearing in Somerset on Saturday) but counting sleeps.

Didn’t we have a lovely time. Porto.

It wasn’t a great start. Let’s talk about airports. You like some. You don’t like others. For us London City is the best although things there are changing. Easy to get to for us. Quick. Convenient and small. Although it’s getting busier. Then there’s Gatwick. A bit further away but easy to get to. Both always by public transport. Have you seen the price of parking at an airport. Especially London City. But let’s talk Heathrow. We always try to avoid it. Busy. Used to be difficult to get to so that was always our excuse. But now the Elizabeth line is open it’s another easy option. But that’s it’s only plus for me. We avoid it as much as we can.

But flights to Porto and timings meant we had to use it. Terminal 5. Designed by the Richard Rogers Parrnership there’s no doubt it’s impressive. Designed to handle 38 million passsengwrs i doubt it was meant for them all to be there at once. Let’s say the travel experience was testing. Starting at security. Check in is always fine. Thank god for the ability to download your boarding pass to an app. We travel light ~ no check in suitcase ~ for travel to Casa Verano no suitcase. It’s a shame nobody told the man in front that he should have checked his case in. Too big for a carry on there was a carry on when it went through security. Sadly we were behind him. And Ian’s bag got stopped too. School boy error. his bag had moved over the liquids.

The man’s suit case was emptied. He was made to open the packages one by one. His clothes went into a pile on the right. The items to be scanned and tested to the left. Whilst we were getting irritated by the long wait the young security girl was engaging him in conversations. Why didn’t they just take him aside and tell him that it all needed to be checked in. There was no way he’s stuff that case in the overhead locker. Even the other security guys weee getting irritated.

To make matters worse inside the massive terminal at the far end of the building we were sitting charging phones and having coffeee in the lounge and guess what. He came and sat next to us. You’d be surprised. I bit my lip. He still had his suitcase.

Queues

You know that old Peter Paul and Mary song. Leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again. Well I do know when but I didn’t know when we would leave. Talk of a bum fight. I thought we were walking to Porto when the gate was announced. Then it was chaos. Theee weeks ago we were emailed. BA we’re having Finn air operate the flight. No big deal. At least it wasn’t cancelled. But at the gate passengers were told that if they were in certain boarding groups they had to put their cabin baggage in the hold as it was a small plane. This happens a lot at London city due to weather conditions and the weight on the flight. More often they have to odd load passengers. Next time they do it if I’m travelling to the casa I’ll take it. It pays for the flight and the next one in compensation. I digress. Chaos on boarding. Stuffed on buses. Driven so far I thought they’d changed the plane to a bus boarded and sat in the runway for an hour.

The upside. The staff from Finn air were delightful. So finally we took off and arrived safely in Porto. Late. But fed and ready to make our way to the Airbnb. I had no idea where. What it was like. Ian does the research on them and books it.

Arriving into Porto

Ian had booked another cracker. Close to the metro. The host was waiting there to meet us and it was a 2 minute walk to the apartment. The Porto adventure had begun. We had originally booked pre Covid and had to cancel because of travel restriction. But we had arrived and had a full itinerary to get through.

Terrace view
Terrace view

Early to bed. Early to rise. Up and out by 8.30 this morning to start the marathon walkabout of Porto. 20,500 steps later. First impressions. Excellent. People had mentioned the amount of building works. They were right. It’s huge. The amount of tourists. Again. They were right. There is a lot. But away from the crowds along the smaller side streets it’s easier. You see things that many will miss.

Usual view

The streets are narrow in the older parts of town and many of the properties are ripe for renovation. There is a huge amount of building work going on in the centre of Porto which meant a detour or two.

Drying your smalls

My brother had been here two weeks previously and had warned me of how steep the climb could be. So I’d like to say I was prepared. I wasn’t. My calves are as tight as tight can be. But as usual we walked and walked until we literally could walk no more. And then had a nata tart. A recurring feature of the trip. Portuguese tarts.

How many.

I loved these before we arrived but I ate so many on this trip with the best yet to come in Lisbon. oh. And warm they are beyond delicious.

We had walked over to the other side of the bridge. An area which held the cellars of the major port producers. The bridge gave a great view up and down stream as long as you dodged the trams. I didn’t aim to be knocked down by a tram.

Over the bridge

Helio. There’s a tram coming !

Port

All the major Port producers have their cellars and tasting rooms here. We went to Sandeman in the Drouro valley who told us that the cellar had been moved to the town out of the country as they could control the temperatures better.

Riverside Porto
In disguise

I’d like to say this is is in disguise. Me on the phone calling a cab. But it’s not. A ship was in and these two had just come off board. Obviously an ear worm came into my head. So. Just to share. In the Navy.

River watch.

I love sitting and watching people and there were more than enough people to watch. People just hanging about watching the world go by. Drinking. Eating. Laughing. I loved this person quietly watching the world go by and couldn’t resist taking a photo.

Church of Saint Ildefonso

Oh my. There are churches. Big fat gothic buildings stuffed to the rafters in glitter and gold. Talk about pomp. There’s gold on gold. . Gilded frames. Paintings. Silver and gold. The treasures of the church. Then there are the more simple ones. Still a bit fancy. Beautiful blue Portuguese tules on the outside. Lovely blue and white. We always managed to arrive just as a service was about to start. Let’s be honest they have a lot of them. Some we went in. Some we didn’t.

Tiles

I asked Ian if he thought these gates would be too much for the entrance to Casa Verano. He just rolled his eyes. I wasn’t sure if it was because I asked or because he needed sun glasses because of the glaring amount of gold. He had to have a sit down.

Look away.

I have a confession to make. McDonalds. We went in a MacDonalsa. Not to eat. Honest Guv. But we had read that when they took over this building they retained most of the interior and worked around it. A great entrance ro the restaurant. Can I call it that even ?

Yes. McDonald’s.

Would you believe it.

Just look at that interior. The glass had been kept and is now behind the servers. The chandeliers are still hanging proud. The only thing that has changed is the food. It’s still a MacDonalds

Btw city is a city of many parts. The splendour of some of its shops and buildings and then the run down building s which are still beautiful in their own way. Side by side. Or run down apartments above beautiful shops. But. There is huge developments going on. On large buildings and on a lot of the smaller ones.

Elegance

Shabby

Faded glory
Busy Porto

Friends who has also been to Porto recently had messaged and said it was busy. It was. And it wasn’t ro be fair. Like any major tourist city it was busy in parts. Let’s not talk about the queue for the Lello library. It was hideous. It looks beautiful on line and I would like to see inside. But as soon as anyone says anything about Harry Potter and a library’ the queue length trebles.

Apparently J.K. Rowling worked as an English teacher in Porto in the early 1990s while working on the first chapters of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone. The shop’s Neo-Gothic façade and majestic Art Nouveau interior with the fabulous crimson staircase are said to have inspired her depictions of both the Grand Staircase at Hogwarts, and the Flourish and Blotts book shop in Diagon Alley. I can’t say. We didn’t get to go inside. Well not this time. .

But walking down the side streets it was much quieter with the added bonus you get to see some gorgeous small shops. And avoid the crowds.

Station glass

This isn’t like our station in either Peckham Rye or Bruton. Or even the Temple of Doom. Now that’s a Harry Potter one. Harry Potter and the temple of Doom. This station has beautiful glass panels and tiles ~ they say 20.000 hand painted tiles depicting important moments of Portuguese history. I couldn’t honestly say. I didn’t count them. Oh. And plenty of tourists.

Shredded skirt

Street entertainment Porto style. Trust me it was entertainment. Bare footed hip swinging guitarist who was working his audience. Whilst swinging his hips and his fabric grass skirt. The video is funnier.

No passing place

This reminds me of a trip in Spain where I took the wrong turning. I have to say that it is one of only a few times I have ever wanted to get out of the car and leave it there. Once in Spain and once in Mew Zealand. But many of the roads in the old town are narrow. Very narrow.

Vintage tourist tram

Would I come back to Porto. Yes. It’s a lovely city and a highlight of the trip was a trip to the Drouro valley for wine and port tasting.

The Mediterranean garden

After a short break in Barcelona we are back on the Costa del Sol. Back up the wiggly road ~ 2,000 feet up the mountain to Cómpeta. An easy but packed flight where we had the offer of being off loaded with compensation of €250 each and being put on the next flight. If seats were available. Tempting but we thought the flight was overbooked because Spain were playing in Malaga in the Euro qualifiers. So that would mean the next flight would be full too. So it was a no for us. And I was wrong about the football flight. Very few to see but a plane full of saga travellers. Me included.

We are coming up to our 6th anniversary. Not us. We have lost count. But having the house here and I just wish we had found the pueblo blanco before. My love for the village the house and the surrounding area hasn’t diminished. We are here less since a certain event which will remain nameless. So we need to make the most of our time travelling in Spain. And in the garden. And with friends.

Let’s talk about the weather. A British obsession. It’s abnormally hot for March. Bonkers hot. Easter here can be a rotten time. Cold. Wet. And it doesn’t matter if it’s March or April. But not this year. The weather is hot. There hasn’t been rain in ages and there is still no sign of rain in the forecast. Unlike the UK. Where it hasn’t stopped and the reports say that March has been the gloomiest in decades. To. Be be fair Britain is the gloomiest it has been in decades. Not just the weather. But to be fair you often hear our Spanish friends commenting on the weather too. ‘hace frio’ you hear. Whilst we are still in shorts and T-shirts. The Spanish in polo neck sweaters with scarves and gloves.

So we arrive at the house. The mimosa tree by the gate is in flower ~ it started as a shoot from one that had been cut down and is now glorious. As long as you don’t have allergies. But I’ll take an extra anti histamine as the colour and effect is awesome. And there will be armfuls picked for the house.

The garden through the gate looks great and I sigh with relief. We are lucky to have friends who water the garden when it’s needed ~ these borders are largely drought resistant ~ but believe me. They still need some water. It may only be 28* now ~ yes. Only 28* but the scorching months of July and August means the most drought tolerant plants need the occasional drink. Last summer the temperature touched 40 in the garden. So I was told. We don’t come in those months. I did in the first lockdown. Well I got caught here for 9 weeks and trust me. The sun may be out but I spent most of my days indoors. In my pants watching Netflix. Air con on. And large bills. Not to be repeated.

There are times I wish we had smelly vision for social media. The curvy path is full of freesias. As well as Clivia and rosemary. But it is the whiff of the freesia that you get as you walk up the path. Bought over the last three years from my friends at Peter Nyssen they get better and better each year. The bulbs. Peter Nyssen couldn’t get any better in my eyes. The Clivia are gorgeous and there are still a few to flower. I did have a yellow one as a pot plant decades ago. Now I want one for the garden. One dozen.

I planted a row of scented pelargonium along the path. To fight off the mozzies. Mozzies love me and last year this path was a nightmare at times. We have cut a lot back. We as in the Gardner who comes in to help. Opened up the space so hoping this year we will be in a better position. This area gets late afternoon shade but still gets as dry as Jerusalem. There are two large strelitzia Nicolai here. One has flowered since we have been here and the smaller of the two looks like it’s going to flower shortly. Excited? Hell yes.

Now the above won’t excite you. Trust me I’m ecstatic. I think this is the new flower which will no doubt flower when we aren’t there. It’s a lovely black and white bird of paradise flower. It’s a particularly gorgeous flower. Black and white large flowers.

The main part of the garden border which has a variety of plants. Yucca which I’m in fear of losing. Small palms. A bed around the olive tree with creeping Rosemary. Creeping. Not creepy. The curry plant. The olive tree and agapanthus all co exist. There is also a lilac which is struggling. I have to think again and go check it daily re flowering. If it doesn’t then it’s time to say goodbye. It’s no use having something that takes up room. And not produce.

Have I ever said I like tulips. Only once or twice. Or a thousand times. I’ll say it again. I like tulips. Here. There and down in Somerset.

These are tulip palmyra. a little short but I don’t care. They are planted in the white wall and are prone to hit by the wind. So shorter than expected are fine. A glorious colour against the white wall. They are a bit early for me to use in the UK.

I planted two pots which included these. Dutch Dancer. These two are also shorter than I’ve grown before. But I love them. I have some in Pitcombe again this year. Well hopefully. I’m yet to see the pots in person.

A bit of a contrast to tulips. My favourite agave. Ever. The foxtail agave. It’s a beauty. This one is in a pot. Obviously. You can see that. I’ve already taken two out of the pot and planted them in the garden. There are a few more to do when I have the time. My worry. That it will flower. Why? Because whilst the flower is lovely like a long fox tail as soon as it flowers the plant dies. I’ll forego the flower for now.

I love these. Lovely black aeonium which has survived the heat of the summer and the low temperatures of Spring. The one I had in London has become mush. My fault as I should have brought it in. Two bits that broke off have been stuck in the ground and are growing well. It’s one thing that I never get tired of. Seeing what we can grow in the garden here.

Hello Prickles the prickly pear. These are all dying off in our area. It’s the cochineal fly. Ravages the plant. Squash it on the white wall and you get a red blob. Get it on your white T-shirt. And it’s a nightmare to get out. I hose it down with the hose to get the fly off. Covid breaks took its toll a bit but it’s still there. And it fruits.

You know I said I like tulips. Have I also said I like agapanthus. Well I like agapanthus. The garden is away with them. Mainly blue. Some white and the latest addition popping purple. They self seed too though it does take a bit before they are mature enough to flower. I have to admit to buying 6 more this trip and planting them at the rear of the house. It’s dry. Very dry so they should thrive. Added as well a medium sized bottlebrush. A friend once commmented that she though the bottlebrush was a bit common. I think in the right place with a beautiful blue sun it’s fabulous. It’s also a great pollinator and gets covered bt bees. Gorgeous and a bee magnet. Win win.

We have two large and a small nispero growing on the bank. Also known as loquat it’s the big leaves that do it for me. The fruit is ok. But they can and do go a bit mush on the tree and don’t keep well when picked. Nispero jam is pretty lovely though.

The view from the bathroom window. The strelitzia Reginae strategically planted. But not by me but by the previous owners. Now in full flower

Thankfully so far the large pines on the bank have survived. Many around us haven’t as the water table has been so low. Also absent this year are signs of the processionary caterpillars. Vicious little bathplugs. In previous years we’ve had the nests removed from the trees but this year there weren’t anybody there wasn’t the number in the trees on the windey road either.

The first time the double doors have been open since last September. Opened so the fly screen can be checked. Cleaned and the doors closed again.

The circle of planting under the olive tree. Osteospermum. Curry plant. (Helichrysum italicum). Rosemary and some succulents ~ a gorgeous crop of Carpobrotus edulis ~ a fabulous bright pink flower on long succulent arms. Not yet in flower so next time. Oh and some freesia.

Euphorbia candelabrum. Prickly pear. Foxtail agave.

A selection of plants taste dotted around rue garden. The cactus that’s not a cactus ~ the euphorbia candelabrum.

A selection of flowers giving the garden some early colour.

But it wasn’t all gardening. It was the start of Semana Santa. Easter is a huge celebration in Spain. Not huge. Massive with celebrations and processions. Each with a different meaning. We were around for one only. Palm Sunday. The procession travels through the village to the Plaza Almijara and to the church. Each procession is very different. There is the men’s procession on Good Friday very early in the morning. The children’s procession. And one for the women of the pueblo Blanco. Plus others. It’s a spectacular sight and one that is carried out all over Spain. We were in Salamanca in 2018 and saw the one there. The first three photos are Competa 2023.

Semana Santa 2023 Competa.
Semana Santa 2018 Salamanca.

But. The weather. Let’s talk about the weather. First time the legs had been exposed since October. A drive down the wiggly road to the coast. Nerja. I’m surprised how many people know where it is. An old colleague when I told him we had a house 30 mins away knew where it was. He’d been there in his honeymoon over 30 years ago. Ex neighbours in Somerset told us they went there often and came for lunch when they were last there. It has grown on us.

Nerja
Nerja and the Balcon de Europe
Beach time.

Then along the coast is Torrox. Apparently has the best climate in Europe but we don’t spend enough time there to validate it. But it’s a great long walk along the promenade. It was another warm day. And no that’s not us on the beach. I don’t want to see myself in swimming trunks in March let alone make others suffer.

The man in the hat
Torrox Costa

It wouldn’t be the same without the pueblo Blanco. It’s six years since Ian booked a trip where we unexpectedly ended up staying in Competa. We had booked Frigiliana but it was cancelled a week before we arrived and we ended up staying in Competa instead. The best cancellation ever.

These steps are always a gem. Always bright. Always full and colourful. The planted balcony. Always catches you as you turn the corner in the narrow streets. The gorgeous blur pots of Casa Beaumont with the planting changing as the seasons change.

Competa by night. Competa by day. And in a blink of an eye another visit is over.

Casa Beaumont.

Viva España ~ Buenos Tardes Barcelona

You have to love a cheesey ear worm. Y viva España was one from the “70’s. I remember my mother singing along to it in the kitchen “ oh this year we are off to sunny Spain; Y Viva España’, Sorry not sorry if you remember it and you are now signing it all day. But. We are off to sunny Spain. But that’s nothing new for us really. Not these days..

Barcelona. Of course we are arrive at the airport early. We always do ~ but it’s a reminder today how little I miss commuter travel. It’s been going on 8 years since I did the commute and it’s one of the things I really don’t miss. Controversial I know but one of my pet hates are people putting on their make up on a packed overground train with arms and elbows going everywhere whilst they do it. I have never lathered my face , whipped out my razor and shaved on my commute. But as usual I digress. Enough of my irritations. There are many.

Travel brings out a lot. People stuffing cases into the overhead lockers irrespective of what’s already in there. Trying to squeeze an oversized case and not succeeding. We try to travel with as little as possible these days but it only works if we are heading up the mountain. But a 45 minute delay sitting on the tarmac doesn’t help but a good flight.

It’s been a while since we were in Barcelona. I first came 32 years PI ( pre Ian) when there was no protective circle around the Basilica and I can’t remember whether we had to pay to enter. I remember virtually climbing a wall and I am sure no roof. There is no fear of that these days. High security and arthritis stops that. And the fear I couldn’t get down.

Ian and air came here about 15 or so years ago. But then the queues were hideous and we hadn’t booked. So we didn’t go in. This time we have booked a tour guide and tickets so we are better organised. I’ll say it about this building what I always say about Stonehenge. It will be nice when it’s finished. Though this one will be.

So we are heading back tomorrow for a tour.

I’m sure these guys could tell a story or two. It looks like they are gentlemen of a certain age who will have seen the changes to the city. The amount of travellers to see thus Gaudi influence. The building. The influx of AIRBNB. But for now their concentration is on other things. Boules. And friendships.

But first the important Tapas and a walk around the Familia Sagrada to see the one light on the top which is illuminated daily with some of the stained glass lit as well. And an early night ready for three days of sightseeing.

The security and street lights are too bright to get a good idea of what it looks,like at night but Tomorrow is another day.

Another day. Another day of sightseeing carefully crafted by Ian. I just turn up and go. Today we have done it again. Dressed like twins. Almost the same and not on purpose. Both have dark jeans. I’ve got a maroon polo shirt. Him a maroon T-shirt. Both have either a navy or black round neck jumpers. Too late to change. But believe me it’s not planned.

So we made it into the Sagrada Familia. The queue was long and everyone had tickets as all tickets must be bought online. Easier for them but an issue for those still without the technology. Security checks at the door. No hats inside. No swimming costumes or short shorts. A reminder that it’s not a tourist attraction. First and foremost it’s a place of worship. Tick on all of them. A little time before we met our guide.

Ian’s first comment was that it reminded him of the set from Lord of the Rings films. Especially Rivendell the home of the elves. He should know. He’s probably watched the film a trillion times. Interesting as Gaudi’s concepts for the inside of the Sagrada Familia was one of a forest. the tree columns. I’ll have to go back and watch the film and take note.

To be fair I wasn’t expecting to have my breath taken away. By the cathedral. Not the tour guide. But the scale, the detailing and the pure majesty is breathtaking. Utterly breathtaking. So different to the previous visit. The first stone was laid in 1882, the building was consecrated by the Pope in 2010 and still remains unfinished. For now. Plans are afoot to finish it in two stages but additional time was needed due to delays with the Covid pandemic.

We don’t usually have a tour guide but this was a small group and he was amazing. Pointed out little details that we would have missed. A history of the building works and of Gaudi. Right up until his untimely death when he was knocked over by a tram.

How some of the carvings depict the architects that followed Gaudi : The faces of some of the children are Japanese. How another was finished not long before the architect died and is engraved with a C and the face is his. The architect. Not Gaudi,s.

I love the texture and shape of these stairs. To look at. When we stayed in Cordoba in 2018 the hotel we stayed in had a similar design which I loved. But I’m not a fan of using stairs like this ~ a tale of which will follow.

The light from the stained glass is stunning and changes as the light increases and decreases as the sun moves around the building.

The columns are massive and are a mix of sandstone and some red columns using imported materials from Iran ~ it’s made of porphyry. When polished they are highly shined but for the most part they are left unpolished. The acoustics from the organ is fabulous. The height of the columns immense. The design was to make it feel like a forest. The columns are the trees. And are not dead straight.

The colours from the stained glass are beautiful and very varied throughout. I love a bit of stained glass ~ to be fair I like glass. The windows have names of Saints and shrines from all over the world written on them. Not that I could read them from that distance. My eye sight may be food but not that good.

The Canopy over the altar with a brass crucifix is fabulous and very different from the figures you see outside. Look at Jesus head on this one and compare it with the one on the outside. This one is what you would expect. The one outside I feel is so amazing.

The Passion façade was built from Gaudi designed and feature Jesus, Herod and Peter amongst others depicting the crucifixion. They are i loves these figures for their stark angular shapes. Jesus head looks like a book and it said that it is to resemble the bible. These are just a few of the structures. There are so many on the building which could be a whole blog in itself.

Ian had booked a viewing from one of the towers. They are two which you can go up and you are allocated which one when you buy the ticket. Ian’s face was a sight when we entered the lift to be told that the lift is taking us up and then there are steps to come down the other side. He wasn’t worried for himself but he remembered an incident in Toledo in 2018 when we had to come down a spiral staircase. Too late. We were at the top. Amazing views across Barcelona. Views of some of the decorations on the towers. The current work being done on some of the towers. Then the descent. I was fine for a while. Spiral stairs with walls either side. I could take my time. Slowly. Then we got to the bit where there was a rail. But nothing the other side to hold onto. Don’t ask me why it’s a problem. It just is. Ian took my camera. My man bag. I took deep breaths. 500/600 steps later I was down. Literally. I had to sit down. Was it worth it? I’ll tell you when my is back recovers my nerves are calmer and my knees stop shaking.

Gausi designed and opened a school for his workers children and sometimes for the children of the local area. A lovely building with a wavy roof. Was a very different but lovely build against the magnificent gothic and art deco designs alongside it.

Tour over and a bit of a recharge it was odd to be at Las Ramblas. Apparently we stayed just off there when Ian and I were last here. I can’t remember a thing about the hotel but do remember bits of the trip. We must have been here in high season last time as I do remember the Ramblas being busier. This is one of the side streets off the ramblas which goes on forever.

Another walk down to look at the Gaudi buildings. We have been inside previously so could just stand and stare at the facade from outside and to be honest the entry price had increased hugely since we were last here. Hordes of students hogging the pavements waiting to go in. But I love this facade. It’s beautiful and simple all together. The balconies look like little masks for a masked ball.

Next on the agenda is Park Güell, one of Gaudi’s most notable creations in Barcelona. And a visit to Casa Vicens another Gaudiq masterpiece neither of which I have seen before.

But I think todays walking has been enough.

nearly 19,000 steps. 55 floors and just over 8 miles. No wonder I need a lie down.