Step by step.

Looking back at lockdowns I can say that the best thing that came out of them was walking. Living in London meant we became lazy. We drove to the supermarket. We drove around the corner to the local shops. We drove into central London. Or we got on a buss.

Lockdown meant we couldn’t go that far. We needed to get out and about for fresh air. Not to say that after living together for over 30’years to be suddenly together 24/7 didn’t give us problems. We weren’t used to it. People asked how have you stayed together for so long. Our reply was often separate houses helped and in later years. Separate countries!

But waking became second nature. We hardly lived the car. We walked to the shops. Shopped local. Daily. We walked to various local parks ~ some of which we had never been to previously.

The good thing is that we have kept it up. We walk far more than we ever have. This weekend admittedly we took the overground to Wapping but then a walk around. Which is a double pleasure for me. I’m back taking more and more photographs.

We were early for haircuts and had time for a wander. Down the algae green steps to the beach.

Right. To the banks of the River Thames when the ride was out. Or was it coming in. Whichever way we couldn’t walk down river to the steps by the Prospect of Whitby. You get some great vows of Canary Wharf from the river bank.

When I started working at Canary Wharf decades ago not one of those high tide buildings were there. We the first firm in the edge of the Wharf and we watched the buildings rise up whilst our coffee cups were bouncing around the desks as there pile driving went on. And on. The demolition of the old Limehouse studios. The arrival of the Docklands light railway ~ the driverless trains.

Along the river edge are the buildings. These days expensive apartments rise high where the warehouses were. Whilst underneath you can see the huge wooden frameworks all covered in slimy green algae.

The sand underneath was perfectly clear until I decided to walk along whilst Ian took a call by the river.

The river was low but we could t hi fat down stream and not knowing where we would get out of we headed up stream it was a good idea to leave as we arrived.

Just after the big jutting out is the Prospect of Whitby.

There is always graffiti somewhere. And no I am not childish. ( I am). Sorry. Not sorry.

The stairs were steep. Green and slimy and quite deep and of course Ian is 10 feet ahead.

We then headed to Shadwell Basin. A bit of water surrounded by houses and where there is a canoe school. Great views from the basin as you look up towards The City of London. Yet another view.

We had another view the day before when I went up to Blackfriars to meet Ian. I love the 20 mph sign which is driving a lot of people crazy. Me included. I can’t remember the last time you could go more than 20mph anyway on central London.

Borough Market is fantastic for foodies. Whether you are buying or eating. But why did we walk there on a Saturday when we can walk there any day of the week. First a walk up the elephant and around the castle which if you haven’t been for a while it’s unrecognisable. The pink elephant shopping centre has been demolished and building is well underway for the new incarnation. New apartments abound around great green spaces of elephant park. Yes. With elephant sculptures. So far I have resisted sitting in the back of one of them. I did once in India. Sit on the back of an elephant. Never ever again. Plus there are signs here telling you you can’t.

It’s a good watering hole on the way to London Bridge for us. Ian likes to practice his Spanish at the Colombian cafe that serves fabulous coffee. Great Cake. And pastries.

Last time we had a long conversation with the owner who is from Bogata but has travelled more than us in the Uk. She has been to parts of Scotland that are in our ever increasing wish list.

Fed. Watered. And Spanish practice done it’s off to Borough Market. It must be the first time ever I have been and yet bought nothing. It was far too busy. Expected for a Saturday but there were queues for Oysters. Queues for paella. Queues for everything. So we skirted the market to walk the Thames Path. Heading down towards Tower Bridge.

A walk past Southwark Cathedral (nice cafe and a nice garden) down through what I think are newly opened walkways. Through Dirty Lane. It wasn’t. It was very clean. Very bright. Lots of small shops waiting to be opened.

Past the Clink Museum.

The original prison was opened in 1144 ~ so a bit before my time. I wondered where the term to be ‘thrown in the clink’ came from and this is an explanation from the Museums website.

‘ The name ‘Clink’ seems to have been attached to the prison in the 14th century. One of the most commonly-argued derivatives is that of the sound of the blacksmith’s hammer closing the irons around the wrists or ankles of the prisoners, although the Flemish word ‘klink’ meaning ‘latch’ (perhaps referring to the latch on the gaol door) could also have influenced its attachment. Whatever the etymology, the prison subsequently bequeathed this name to all others, resulting in the development of the expression, “to be thrown in The Clink.” ‘

The Golden Hind is in a dry dock and is currently going through a renovation using fallen oak. The ship i was a galleon captained by Francis Drake in his circumnavigation of the world between 1577 and 1580. Yes. I pinched this from their website as big words like circumnavigation is so not me. Keep it short and simple. And before you say it ..,.

But the Golden Hind I remember is a pub I once worked in occasionally in Wales.

As you’d expect there are plenty of boats and ships on the river. I must look up the difference for when a boat is a boat and not a ship. This is one of the fabulous sail boats moored just off the south bank.

I am not sure what this boat is. I’ll look next time I walk past. Some paddle boat.

The Thames beast. A large speedboat with a 40 min trip from tower pier down to the 02 and back with some fast turns. I’ll stick to the Thames River bus thank you. A more leisurely trip up the river which I used for travel to work. Great to sit outside on a dry day. Even more fun on a wet and windy one. Ans you could gat a drink on the way home.

Views across the River Thames from the south bank. These have all sprung up in the City of London since I first arrived 4 decades ago. But I still get a feeling of excitement wandering around. The buildings have names like the Walkie talkie ( a giant 80’s mobile phone) . The Gherkin.

The cheese grater.( The nickname came from the City of London Corporation’s chief planning officer. When he first saw the model of the building, he told the architect that ‘he could imagine his wife using it to grate parmesan’.)

On the other side the shard. ( said to look like a shard of glass)

The old and the new. HMS Belfast permanently moored on the Thames and is now a visitor attraction. This week an active serving vessel is moored alongside. A new addition this year to the fleet ~ The Multi Purpose Offshore Vessel RFA Proteus is alongside the Belfast just for a few days. Better viewed down the other bank ! Before it leaves.

A walk past the old City Hall building down toward Tower bridge. The building is currently undergoing renovation after housing the GLA ~ it’s new purpose unknown. The building is Daisy I look like a giant motorcycle helmet.

Ice cream sellers and rugby fans watching the game on a large screen in the amphitheatre below.

I still love seeing the bridge open. Well not if I’m stuck in traffic on the bridge waiting to cross. It’s a slow old process. Everything is slow across the bridge. Even traffic. Except the one Saturday morning I drove across at 8am and got caught speeding. I was doing 23 miles an hour. The one and only time you could go more than 10pm over it. It was definitely me driving. The photo was clear. We were arguing. I was driving.

Another view of the buildings of business with The Tower of London in its shadows. I’m embarrassed to say the tower is one place I haven’t visited. Well not inside. I’ve often walked around the outside. Seen traitors gate from the River bus. Saw the fabulous poppies. But have never seen the Crown Jewels. Except when worn on ceremonial occasions and then only on the old telly box.

Walking away from the bridge you pass through narrow lanes which have commercial premises on the ground floors and fancy pants apartments above. On the front of the walkway are excellent restaurants and tourists posing for photos. Walkers, diners , joggers.

Many of these buildings would have been working warehouses with the cargo ships loading and unloading alongside. Now they have the best balconies and views of the river. If you are riverside obviously. . Otherwise it’s great views of other apartments.

Many of the riverside apartments and the walkways here have banners saying ‘No Oceandiva’ ~ which is a petition against the planned party boat berthing on the Thames. A boat built 3 storeys high. Holds 1500!partygoers. I’d have a petition too.

Just beyond Tower bridge are a number of houseboats moored at the surprisingly named ‘Tower Bridge moorings ‘ t

It has an interesting history with many of the barges having gardens which open for the National Garden Scheme. The gardens are now as Garden Barge Square .

It was a long circular walk back through Bermondsey and a day of nearly 20,000 steps but it’s a great way to see the bits of history over and over again. There’s always something new to see. But for now these little legs need s rest.

Have House guests will travel

Back to the cottage for a while and we have a guest staying. I love it when we do as it makes us get off our backside and do things. Ian has a saying about house guests.

He says they are like fish and go off after 4 days. He has a general but not a hard and fast rule that guests usually only stay that time. This guest can and does stay longer. She fits into the great house guest category. And is a regular visitor to Somerset and Spain. And reads the blog.

There was a list of things to do. Garden visits. Lunch out. Supper with friends. The other good things about great house guests is that there is no hard and fast rule of what where and when. Let’s leave the structured days to organised trips which indeed have their own value. But not from one’s home. The weeks list was varied and a great distraction from the gardening I would have otherwise done or not done had we been on our own.

I always think the strength of my likes for a garden visit are the number of photos I take. There are two clear favourites from this week. I’ll let you see what you think. But over two blogs.

Hestercombe House and gardens

We hadn’t been to Hestercombe House. Despite livig in the county for nearly 30 years. When we were both working we would travel to the cottage on a Friday and back on a Sunday or Monday so most time was spent locally with friends. Local friends made over the years and/or visiting godchildren family and parents. There weren’t enough days in a weekend. But hey. What’s retirement for if not enjoying your self. I have to pinch myself that I’m coming up to my 7 year anniversary of early retirement. I still laugh at the comments that were thrown at me. Won’t you be bored was the most asked question. The answer then was NO. 7 years later it’s still no and as I approach a milestone birthday there is still plenty I want to do whilst I’m still able. A milestone birthday. And it’s not 21.

Hestercombe gardens is a fine example of the partnership between Gertrude Jekyll and Sir Edward Lutyens. In 1944 the estate except for the House and the formal gardens were sold with the latter two sold to Somerset County council in 1978. The house and gardens are now managed by a garden trust.

With the current heatwave many gardens are not at their best. At bit like me to be fair. Needing plenty of water and feed. The layout and planting are great but when we visited there was not as much colour as you would have expected. I found the planting not as interesting as I had hoped for but there were pockets of beauty. I’m not quite sure what the gypsophylia was but it was stunning. I must ask as it was like a fluffy white cloud of very small flowers.

There were some swathes of colour like this purple around some very lovely urns.

Hsnshehehe

Pollen coated bee

Ia greaarden fro

Hestercombe planting

The echinop were a plenty in the garden and the great swathes of them were full of bees. Some covered in pollen like they had been dusted with icing sugar. It’s a great garden for pollinators ~ it’s been a long time since I have seen so many bees in one place.

What I would say about Hestercombe is that for the garden visits it came up as number one for the garden cafe. Both for menu and service. An excellent three course set menu ~ with an excellent main menu available. The staff were brilliant. Friendly and personable. Helpful and charming. I would go back just to eat at the cafe if I was in the area. Also the garden cafe isn’t behind thenAye all so,you can go and visit the cafe without having to go into the garden. That’s a bonus in my view. We will be back.

Forde Abbey

Forde Abbey

Another day another garden. We visited Forde Abbey on our guests previous visit but at a different time of year. It rained then and we watched the fountain erupt in the rain. This time the sun was shining and to be honest we did t know what to expect. Oh and the fountain didn’t erupt the whole time we were there. Maybe saving water ?

It’s a large garden with different areas. Can I just say one word. Fabulous. Another. Colourful. The planting is just up my street. Gorgeous planting. Zingy colours. Delightful borders. The gardens are listed as Grade II in the National Heritage list for England as a historically important garden. On my list as ‘ a bloody lovely garden’. And a big one. Covering over 30 acres. This time we didn’t manage to get to the bog garden. Not that I need an excuse to go back.

Wonderful wide borders against the wall were a delight with views across to the house. The combination of planting was astonishing given the current weather and the gardens are so beautifully maintained.

A highlight was the wonderful wildflowers. Planted to form a maze like feature it was stunning. I’m told they do the same with tulips for the spring so we will be back. Not that I need the excuse of spring but the tulips will beckon. There is a lovely Sitting spiritually rocking bench just overlooking the wildflowers. A company I first saw at RHS Chelsea decades ago. One of three of their swings at Forde Abbey. To add to the collection of ones seen here there was another at the Seaside boarding house. More if that in the next blog. Don’t hold your breath. It may or not be for a while.

The planting of the borders at the edge of the long pond are fabulous and can be seen from across the water and in front. Great planting to have views from both sides. . A word I know I’ve used a lot about this garden. Fabulous. But to be honest there are the colours. The plants. The combinations.

Time to sit and relax

This is not a sitting spiritually swing . The third one in the garden was unavailable. The people on it refused to budge. This bench was a welcome seat on the middle part of the wander as I headed off ahead to take photographs. For once ahead of the game leaving the other two,to,sit and I suspect put the world to rights.

Forde Abbey

Who lives in a house like this.? A former Cistercian Abbey occupied as a private house by the same family since 1905. Used as a film location for Far from the Madding Crowd, Restoration and Daniel Doranda we didn’t go inside the house. But we will. They open for Christmas. That is tempting.

Oh for a veg garden like this.

There is a large walled vegetable garden as you enter the gardens from the car park area. An amazing array of vegetables. Amazing looking rows of onions. Of cabbages and cauliflowers. I meant to ask the gardeners what happens to the veg. The garden is too large to supply just the house and I suspect not big enough for,a commercial enterprise. But whoever gets it is lucky!

What would be great is for the garden produce to be used in the cafe. Especially the salads in the summer months. Hint hint. We will be back

There is nursery at Forde Abbey and we came away with a car filled with new plants. But. Disaster. I missed the dahlia section. That’s a big fail on my part and I can’t quite understand how I did it. . I have a nose for a dahlia sale, I suspect skullduggery on Ian’s part to get us away from buying anymore plants. Two more words I keep saying ‘Next time’

Another day Another 10,0000

I’ve said it before. But I like to repeat myself. Ask Ian. He often says. Yes. You’ve already told me that. But let’s be fair. There hasn’t been that much to talk about these last two,years. Especially in lockdown. But. I’ll repeat. One good thing to come out of lockdown is walking. We have walked more in the last two years than we have walked in the last two decades. Areas locally that we have never seen despite living in the area for over 3 decades.

Today was another day. Up early for a walk to The Cornerstore London for coffee before we continued to try and get 10 by 10. Which really sounds cool but in reality it is usually 10 by 12. Sounds like the size of a saMall room but I mean 10,000 steps.

We try and vary where we walk although the parks continue to be a favourite as the seasons are slowly changing and spring bulbs are springing up. Today though we decided to walk to Battersea Power station via Oval.

I have driven past The Oval cricket ground since 1982. But have never been inside. I don’t like cricket. There’s I have said it out loud. I always swear loudly on match days as the traffic is bad and it takes longer to Beth one. But it’s a lovely building. Home to the first Test match played in the U.K. in September 1880. A few years before I ran away to London. .

A bit of a diversion between The Oval and Vauxhall dodging the cycle Lane as we crossed the road and into Bonnington Square gardens. This is only the second time I have visited ~ a little garden with a massive hand drawing you in.

The history

I think we need to go back at night and see it lit but it’s great to see that it is a garden looked after solely by the residents with no outside funding. The garden and square is a hidden gem ~ quiet yet a stones throw away from busy roads. Train stations and high rise blocks.

We then headed away from Bonnington Square toward Nine Elms. Another area we usually drive through. Either toward Lavender Hill or past the Covent Garden Flower market toward Battersea on our way west. There was a time I frequented the area at weekends ~ the Market Tavern ~ now demolished and a new hotel being built on the site. The area between Vauxhall and Battersea both river side and road side has changed dramatically over the years we have travelled along the route. Huge developments of high rise apartments. Cafes. Restaurants and the new American Embassy have grown up.

The American Embassy

The new building is an interesting modern design compared to its old residence which was grade 11 listed before it’s sale for redevelopment into a fancy pants hotel.

The American Embassy in London is the largest American embassy in Western Europe. It’s an interesting place.

Do I like the surrounding developments. Sort of. Some of the apartments appear very small. Others look straight into each other’s rooms. Great terraces but no privacy. As I’ve got older privacy and light have become more important. My biggest question to all of these developments is where are the banks. The post offices. Health care facilities, the doctors surgery. The dentists. Schools? Maybe they are there. Maybe I missed them.

Across the road begins the Battersea Power station development. More apartments. More bars. I love it when some people say ‘ I remember being in my pram and recall my grandmother talking to me’. But me. I struggle some times to remember what I did yesterday or where I put my pen the day before. Where am I going? Battersea. Where I went in the 1960’s to Battersea park and Battersea fun fair. I remember going. But nothing of the day. My memory has always been shocking. Now where was I. I checked. the fun fair was opened in 1951 and finally closed in 1974.

The chimneys of Battersea Power station .

Battersea Power station is iconic. Its a grade II listed building and at its peak was supplying a fifth of London’s electricity and was in operation from 1930 to the 1980”s. The website gives information on interesting developments over the years. Like the inflatable pink pig tied to the chimneys for a Pink Floyd album. Or how a power cut delayed the introduction of BBC 2.

It’s one of the landmarks I first recognised when I moved to London 40 years ago this month. Younger. Thinner. Excited and excitable. It’s also taken decades to get the development ( the building) going. To be fair the building from the outside has been done superbly. It looks fantastic. The chimneys are still in place. All four of them. Apparently they were originally going to be Square. Something I learnt from the website. Go look it’s interesting history.

From the outside looking in it looks like an amazing space and I can’t wait for it to be fully open. Outside green space appears a little dull at the moment ~ lots of grasses. But fingers crossed for more.

In development.
Surrounded by new builds

Again there are masses of apartment blocks. Various designs. Some with. Some without balconies. A range of shops on the ground floor. Restaurants in the Railway arches. A theatre. Moored houseboats. And masses upon masses of ongoing building works.

Street sculpture

There is sculpture. A light show until the end of February,which we must try and get to.

Boat sculpture
Boats and buildings

There are a few houseboats moored alongside the development. I forgot to look out for the Battersea Barge which is a floating theatre and cabaret venue. The one thing I did think that a lot of the area was cast in shade. Maybe the time of day. Maybe th3 height of the buildings.

Restart ants and cafes
Turbine theatre.

Too tired to walk all the way back ~ the 436 bus and lunch when we got back. Tomorrows another day.

Shadows

Hello London

Old London Town. I ran away to London ( sort of) on 1st February 1982 with the intention of maybe staying a year or two. I hated it. I’d taken a promotion and moved to the big smoke knowing very few people. At first I stayed in Brixton with an actor friend who I’d met in Cardiff who was in the London stage production of The Sound of Music. Now you know why I can sing ‘High on a hill’ ‘climb every mountain’ ‘I am sixteen going on seventeen.’ Though the latter now has to be ‘ I am sixty going on seventy.’

London was expensive. Money was tight so I ended up walking a lot. By walking everywhere in central London I found my bearings. I knew how to get from A to B and trust me the underground isn’t always the fastest. The number of people who get on the tube at Covent Garden to go to Leicester Square is bonkers. By the time you walk down the stairs at Covent Garden you are in Leicester Square. But I walked. And walked and over time I grew to love it. London. Not walking.

Over the years I grew lazy and walked less but one of the things to come out of the pandemic is that we are walking more. Yes. I get the train into town. It’s either 12 mins to Victoria or 16 to London Bridge. From either of these two stations you can get almost anywhere by foot. Maybe a short bus ride too. These last few days I’ve walked over 20 miles. That’s not my usual but it’s more frequent than say in 2019.

So back in London for dental appointments this week meant I could wander from Victoria to Oxford Street and back to Charing Cross via Soho taking in some familiar and favourite places on the way. Some I have left out. Why? Because. There’s always another day.

We are fortunate to live near to two stations. Peckham Rye and Denmark Hill. Both are within easy walking distance. You just have to make the decision as you get to the top of the road whether you turn left. Or turn tight. This week it was a left turn and I was happy to see that they had the flags out at Victoria for my arrival. Whilst it should I have been the Welsh Dragon I’ll accept what I get. After all I have now lived in London longer than in my birth place.

I love central London as the evening light changes especially when it’s not busy and especially after the rain with wet roads and pavements as it gives you better photo opportunities. Some of the buildings are lit. The lights of the cars and traffic lights sparkle. And I look better at dusk. Some say even better in the dark.

I’m not a huge fan of Christmas. But I love the run up and the decorations. These days house decorations are few. We have spent two out of four in Spain where I do add a bit of glitter and decoration but as we are only there for a short while it’s minimal. Gone are the days of real trees and dropping pine needles.

The stores do a great job of their windows especially at Christmas. The window dressers ~ that’s a phrase I haven’t used in decades not since a friend of mine was a window dresser for Jaeger. Too old for me then ~ the clothes not The window dresser ~ too expensive now. Though I note that Marks & Spencer are now stocking Jaeger. I think it’s the lights and the sparkle that attract me. To the shops not the clothes. Selfridges who do not sell fridges by the way do a great job. John Lewis do too.

I love the run up to Christmas But it slightly scares me at the beginning of November ~ I suspect Santa’s grotto has been opened for weeks. This is Selfridges but I didn’t go inside at this stage. I didn’t have my list for Santa. I once dressed up as Santa for our team xmas lunch to hand out the secret Santa presents. Maybe a job for the season. Let me think about it. No. Never. Have I told you I’m retired. I suspect a lot.

I’m not a huge fan of Christmas. These days house decorations are few. We have spent two out of four in Spain where I do add a bit of glitter and decoration but as we are only there for a short while it’s minimal. I still like Christmas cards and I’d say I’m like my mother which terrifies me. Each Christmas as she got older I’d help her with the cards. I use to say just give me the cards. I’ll write them. No no she’d reply. I need to see which card goes to who. You can’t send that one to X. It doesn’t have a nice verse in it. Mum. All it needs is Happy Christmas. No no. That’s the wrong card for your uncle and Aunt. Ok. Whose this one for. Oh. That’s for Andrew and Ian whilst then laughing as she realised what she’d said. To be fair. I’m the same. I spend ages looking for the right cards. Or having some printed.

John Lewis ineriotr

After the dentist it was John Lewis. Actually the 4th floor and their Christmas shop. Christmas trees. Lights of all shape colour and size. Talk about tinsel. Enough for everyone. Except me. I hated tinsel in the 1970’s and I still do though it’s not the thin old stuff we used to have. The choice of trees was mesmerising. The wall of lights dazzling. Remember getting the lights out of the loft and having to check every bulb because if one didn’t work the whole lot didn’t. Days when you could replace a bulb instead of having to replace a whole string. Growing up there were only 3 modes. On. Off and flashing. The battery ones we use on the standard bays in London have numerous. We use two. On and off.

I thought the Regent Street lights would have been on by now but no. It looks like the same lights as in 2019 & 2020 but hey. We have been in a rather strange place. The pavements have been widened. Lockdown surely hasn’t meant we have all been eating more. No. It’s for social distancing which I suspect many of us will continue to do for the foreseeable future. The Council in their wisdom has made it harder for vehicles in central London. To make the air cleaner. I’m not sure it works as Park Lane and often Regent Street is chocka bloc with stationary traffic and queues. With engines running.

Liberty London. Such a beauty both outside and in. It took me decades to have the confidence to venture in but once done you realise even if you aren’t buying it’s a joy to see inside. The Christmas shop is always amazing with an incredible selection of baubles glitter and glitz. Things you never know you needed. Least of all wanted. Most you can’t afford.

Hello Carnaby Street ~ a street made famous in the 1960,s for its fashion and which still has a fair number of individual ‘boutiques’ dotted along. Always well decorated. Always busy with shoppers and sight seekers. Always a cut through for me heading from Oxford street via Regent street down to the Strand. The little streets off it are interesting too. I often take a little detour through to Berwick Street. Just because I can. We used to go to Berwick Street market on a Saturday to buy our fruit and veg but the market is now much reduced. We also used to meet our friend Katherine who shared a flat with Ian, when she was shopping for material in Berwick street for her sewing adventures.

One of the shops that caught my eye ~ yes I admit it was Dorothy’s red slippers. We all know friends of Dorothy don’t we? But look at them all. This was a fashion shop and these were the tame ones. I once went to a 70’s fancy dress and needed platform shoes to go with the flares. A colleague and I went to a shop in Poplar market and I picked up a pair of platforms and asked for them in my size. Um. ‘Excuse me you do know they are ladies shoes ‘ ‘Oh yes’ I replied. ‘I need them for Friday’. ‘How are you going to walk in those’ my colleague asked. It’s easy I said. I had worse in the 70’s. Just ask my Dad. He was less than impressed. I never fell off them then either. I think I may be wearing platforms here. Thankfully you can’t see. I still love a polo neck though. These days they are a boon in hiding multiple chins. The fashion today is to wear your mask under your chin. It has the same effect.

Onwards through one of my favourite areas. SOHO. Back in the 80’s when I first moved to London it was a very different place. But it’s always been fabulous. Full of amazing places. Some now gone others stood the test of time. Places like Stockpot ~ the great cheap and cheerful go to cafe. There was another at Leicester Square and one on the Kings Road. My favourite dessert was jelly and cream. Melati restaurant where I first went with Ian after a works leaving party and called a friend from the phone box close by to ask if I was doing the right thing. Both have gone now ~ the restaurant and the phone box. Not Ian and the friend. That was 30 years ago. That’s scary. You could sit in the restaurant and watch a series of visitors to the apartments opposite. It was like traffic lights. Tho the lights were stuck on red with a lot of models living in the area. Things changed through the late 80’s and 90’s with the pink pound becoming more and more evident in the area.

Walking through Soho it’s always great to see old favourites. Lina Stores a great deli. My other favourite deli is on Old Compton Street. Il Camissia where we would buy fresh pasta on a Saturday. Still there but the shutters were down ~ not as good a photo opportunity as Lina Stores. But it’s a fabulous place. Small but full of delights.

The Algerian Coffee stores a wonderful shop full of a huge variety of coffee beans and all paraphernalia for coffee making along with an amazing array of loose teas. I remember buying Jamaica Blue mountain coffee there for the first time. I love how these independents have continued in spite of the high rents and rates they have to endure and where shop fronts haven’t changed in decades.

I have been going to Maison Bertaux since 1982. Nor regularly but whenever we are in town and passing by. Thankfully it has survived lockdown. Opened in 1871 (no. I wasn’t at the opening) it is the oldest patisserie in London. It’s cakes are amazing and I love sitting on the pavement tables eating a big fat cream eclair drinking tea whilst watching the world and the Soho characters go by. Next to Maison Bertaux is the Coach and Houses a grade 2 listed pub which had an interesting history. I admit I’ve walked past for 40 years. https://www.coachandhorsessoho.pub/history

When I first moved to London it was much cheaper to go to the theatre. Especially if you were friends with a couple of box office managers who would phone you to say that a particular theatre was ‘papering” the house and did I want some tickets. Papering the house meant that the show hadn’t sold out so there were seats to fill. Or I regularly used the half price ticket booth in Leicester Square. I was a regular theatre goer and there is a box full of old programmes in the attic along with theatre flyers. The Palace Theatre where I first saw Les Miserables in about 1987 which now houses the long running Harry Potter play. Just one of the many theatres on the walk to Charing Cross.

Into Covent Garden past Seven dials where back in the 80’s Neals yard was a favourite. Not today though as it’s become a bit more commercialised. The Tea House in Covent Garden was a favourite place for me to buy Ceylon orange pekoe loose leaf tea. I can’t remember how or why but it was probably a phase. I went through a few of those apparently. But the range of teas was amazing as were the array of teapots and associated bits and pieces for tea making. Today I make do with a teabag or two.

Here stands my brothers favourite pub in London. When he visited it was where we would meet him and his friends to make the way home.

Covent Garden market once the major fruit and veg market lit up for Christmas. Not as busy as usual but still pretty lovely. Lights. Christmas tree. Fire eating entertainer it has it all as well as the traders in the old apple market.

Final pic is The Punch & Judy. Amother Covent Garden pub in the 80’s to meet friends up in town for the day. Easy to find. Downstairs outside space and close enough to Sal to get the No 12 bus home.

Didn’t we have a lovely time ~ Jerez & Cadiz

Well we are back in Spain again. For the second time in 6 weeks after an absence of 52. To be fair it seems like we haven’t been away. Except for the wearing of masks in shops and when entering restaurants and if you are unable to social distance.

I love this time of year in Spain. The temperature has dropped and is comfortable. The mosquitos are retreating and the coast is clear. Clear of hordes of beach goers which means quiet walks ( not romantic ) along the beach. But for the final time in 2021 Ian has booked a trip within a trip for 4 nights whilst we are here. He has said again that we are not spending the whole time here in the garden. The last trip and with some help we have got the garden back on track so this trip it will be easier. Little did he know that there are hundreds of bulbs to plant ~ but that will be for December.

First stop after a 3.5 hour drive in the dark. Was Jerez. The joy of being in Competa is that there are so many places of interest within decent driving distance. Malaga. Granada. Ronda. Córdoba. Seville. After four and a half years those have been done. Some more than once. Some more than that. In our first year I had visited Granada countless times primarily to go to the Alhambra. Ian has a list of places that we should see and some for next year will need more planning as they are further afield.

I digress. The early start was for a reason. We had booked our stay in Jerez and then tried to book tickets to see the Horses at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art but the only day there was a show was the day we arrived and the tickets had to be collected by 11am. So it was a 6am start. There were two benefits to the early start. One was that the roads were relatively quiet and two it meant we arrived to collect the tickets before the arrival of the coaches. Which in turn for an hour we virtually had the place to ourselves.

We arrived to the training of some horses and young riders outside in various parts of the grounds and to a cafe full of young riders taking their break. I’d like to say I understand what they were talking about but their excitement was like a runaway train. Not only was there individual training there were carriage driving training going on as well.

The main event takes place in the Picadero ( indoor arena) which when at full capacity seats 1,600 spectators with amazing views of the arena. We had excellent front row seats mid way along the arena with great views. I mainly took videos of the horses which can be found on my Instagram page @pitcombe123

There is so much more to the School. In the grounds there is also the Palace. The Palacio Recreo de las Cardenas built in the 19th century and designed by Charles Garner who also designed the Paris Opera House and the Monte Carlo Casino. We were the only visitors on the ground floor which is the only part open ~ benefit of being early birds.

Ian had booked a small Airbnb for four nights in a great location with easy access on foot to the sights and tapas bars. Whilst the apartment was compact it had an amazing terrace which was an added bonus together with some interesting pots.

Fab Airbnb terrace

Jerez is an interesting place. The architecture varied and with a lot of buildings in various stages of being reformed. It sounds a strange thing to say but the city is very Spanish. But it was. Very. There weren’t hoards of tourists. ( like us) or coach tours. It was very easy to wander around although easy to get lost in the small narrow Andalucian streets though great for shade. As well as being famous for its Horses Jerez is also known for its Sherry. I’ll admit now. I’m not a Sherry lover. I was listening to a radio programme recently where the Spanish were berating how bad the UK is at drinking Sherry. We can all relate to our parents or grandparents or even us opening a bottle of Sherry and be handed a glass from the same bottle a year or so later. This horrifies the Spanish who say it should be treated like a bottle of wine and not left to be drunk once a year at Christmas. I thought growing up that the only Sherry was the sweet Sherry dragged out of the cupboard at Christmas. Harvey’s Bristol Cream if my memory serves me well. We didn’t do a Sherry tour this time but have been told that it’s a must. Just to educate us as to what delights there are out there. Not just a sweet Sherry at Christmas.

Sherry anyone?

Day two was a walk through the narrow streets to the Alcazar a former moorish Alcazar probably built in 11c. Not as big or grand as Seville Granada or Córdoba but interesting. Particuarly as once again when we arrived we were the only ones walking around. Gorgeous large olive trees planted in the Grounds but very little colour in the gardens.

Alcazar Jerez
The baths and the Mosque
Within the grounds of the Alcazar Jerez

The Mosque is the only one remaining of the eighteen once present in the city. I love the star shaped skylights in the ceiling of the bath house which lets in amazing light. You can see some of the original workings of the heating system too which probably worked better than ours at home.

Within the palace is there is the Municipal Pharmacy from the 19th century, beautifully carved shelves and potions and lotions on them all. Along with original glass bottles which I’d happily have taken home.

Lotions and potions

We spent the rest of the day wandering the narrow streets. Stopping for lunch. Afternoon tea and cakes. Getting lost.

Streets of Jerez.

As well as Jerez we had decided to spend a day in Cadiz. Instead of driving we had booked the train which was only a 45 min journey with a 20:min walk from the Airbnb. As usual we decided to get there early and spend the whole day wandering with no agenda. . Another day of leaving in the dark and arriving in the dark. But the streets were quiet and had been cleaned already as we walked to the station.

Jerez ~ walk to the station.

Travel but train is so easy isn’t it. As long as the train goes straight from A to B with no changes. Fast efficient and clean. 45 minutes later we had arrived in Cadiz. As we left the station we were presented with the sight of the cruise liner Queen Elizabeth. Appears Queens are like buses. Three arrive at once. Seeing these cruise liners close up cements my thinking that I don’t want to go on one. Friends love it. But I think for me it’s too big and I have a fear of not being able to get away. Getting away from people. The puerto de Cadiz had a few liners in dock. All huge ships.

Queen Elizabeth

First impressions of Cadiz were good. Final impressions at the end of the day was it was great. It is so good to walk and find your bearings before the crowds descend but to be fair it was never so busy that it was uncomfortable.

One other benefit was arriving to sunrise over the city and the port.

Early morning Cadiz

A walk first along the Campo del Sur to the Castle of San Sebastian at the end of La Caletta. A lovely early morning walk with sea air and the sun rising. What more could you want? To be honest a strong coffee. I had been up for hours.

The castle and watchtower is on a small island connected to the mainland by the walkway but the interior of the castle is currently closed. Both have an interesting and long history.

Castle of San Sebastián

There’s always time for a coffee stop before you climb the tower. We had passed through the square in front of the cathedral when we arrived just as things were just opening up so having done a perusal of the area we were back to people watch before we ventured into the cathedral. People watch we did. Well I did as I’m more nosey than Ian. It was fascinating as there were at least three cruise ships in at the port and I was trying to guess the nationalities of the people. Some were easier than others. The Spanglish gave some away.

Cadiz Cathedral

After breakfast and the enduring wait for the bill we managed to get into the cathedral but not before listening to the tour guide from one of the cruise ships giving his talk to his captive audience. The cathedral wasn’t the most interesting or beautiful for me. I guess I keep comparing the glitz with the last one we visited in Granada where everything that glittered was gold. This one had a remarkable piece of silver instead. Imagine having to polish that once a week.

Silver

I can usually guess how much I liked a place by the number of photographs I took. There weren’t many. The cathedral was beautiful. But nothing stood out for me. Except being told off by Ian for making spooky noises in the crypt and threatening to find a creaky door noise on my phone. Childish. Me. Yes.

I swiftly walked past the entrance to the church Tower but Ian was determined. “You’ll get great views from the top” ‘I know’ I replied “but you know me and stairs. I may get to the top then panic about coming down’ We have a difficult relationship. Not me and Him. Steps and me. As in Steps. Not 5.6.7.8 steps. After 30 years he just ignores me. He says it’s easier. For us both. But the idea of photo opportunities won me over. What won me over more was that there were no steps. No stairs. Just a very long. circular walk to the top. And obviously back down again.

That’s unusual

I usually panic on the way down but I got another telling off. I started signing ‘hi how hi ho hi ho it’s off to woke we go” Especially as we turned the corner and met a couple coming up. They, unlike me , we’re not amused.

Hi ho. Hi ho.

It’s amazing the places you can find. Hidden in a narrow side street is the Oratoria de La Santa Cueva. Leading figures of 18th century Cadiz used the building to withdraw and to undertake spiritual penance. They belonged to the mysterious Spiritual Withdrawal Congregation. It’s a building of two halves, down into the basement you find the gloomy and austere chapel. Dark. Minimalistic. A bit creepy to be honest. Dedicated to the Passion.

In total contrast the upper floor of the High Sacramemt Chapel is opulent and was deliberately designed in contrast to the penitential chapel in the basement. In addition to its opulence it holds a secret stash of Goya paintings in the arches above the alcoves. With beautiful light coming in from the roof Another interesting piece of information ~ Joseph Haydn wrote his work “The Seven Words Last of Our Saviour on the Cross” for this chapel,

The austere Chapel
Opulence and Goya

Sightseeing is exhausting and one needs to feed one’s soul. And stomach. Sadly the tapas bar recommended by a friend was full but the area was full of fabulous little tapas bars. A great late lunch we were ready for more walking.

Lunch

Would I recommend Cadiz. Definetly. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t go to the parks. We didn’t go up the tower. But. We will be back.

Maybe if I win the lottery by private yacht like this one moored in the port. It looked a bit space age to me but definitely stood out.

Lottery win needed.

I suspect my mode of travel will be more subdued.

Reality.

There will be no more trips within a trip for the rest of the year. There will be a Malaga trip. Both to the Christmas lights which are fabulous and this year to a new event at the Botanical gardens. That reminds me to check out the arrangements!

Another day in the City.

The excitement of it. Another appointment at the Dentist.

I’ve never looked forward to a trip to the dentist as much as in 2021. Why? Because it’s a day out. Well not quite a day but most of it. Boy do I need one. This last lockdown has been a struggle. A mixture of the weather. Not seeing other people and engaging in everyday frivolities. Buying take away coffees and not being able to linger for the conversation. Being together in a household just the two of us. For 12 months. Usually we spend time apart. Different counties or countries. In 30 years we have never spent so long continually in each other’s company! But we are still talking even if Ian does say that most of it is nonsense.

Warwick Gardens and the Holly Grove shrubbery

With the sun shining I set off with a little trepidation. Would the train be busy. Would I feel any pain. Would I need the loo.

But first a walk to the station through our local park and through Holly Grove shrubbery. Spring has really sprung. Maybe a little early if the forecast is to be believed but the flowers were out in abundance. Our local council maintains the park and the shrubbery and I have to say does a great job.

Busy busy.

The train was um. Empty. Two people in the whole carriage. Three including me. The 10.11 to London Victoria. Yes. Not rush hour but still empty. I had two choices. Victoria or London Bridge. As it was dry and sunny I chose the former. That way I could walk to Wimpole Street using a different route to last week.

It was bizarre again. The station was quiet. Not empty but quiet. I headed up past Lower Grosvenor park and skirted the garden walls of Buckingham Palace heading up to Hyde Park.

The Shell Hut

I’ve never really stopped at this little park but to be honest I don’t usually walk this way. Yes. There’s a joke in there but I’ll move on. It was the shell huts that I saw which made me want to know more. After nearly 40 years in the city I can still be an excited tourist.

The Goring Hotel

I did a little detour down a side street and past The Goring Hotel. It’s on my list for afternoon tea when we can go out and about again. Featured heavily when there was a royal wedding.

The Goring bug Hotel

Because you can take your time just looking around and not dodging other pedestrians you see more. No elbows. No one walking at you on their mobile and bumping into you and snarling. Like it’s all your fault.

I once read that you should look up at the buildings. You get to see so much detail. But also to look around you. This great bug hotel ‘ The Goring’ on the wall opposite the main hotel would have normally been missed.

Buckingham Palace

The perimeter of the gardens of Buckingham Palace stretch for an age. High security. Cameras ~ I did a little wave as I walked past. Not sure if anyone was in.

Buckingham palace occupies 42 acres and the gardens are Grade II* listed. I have been in the gardens once. Not over the wall I might add but had the excitement of being invited to a garden party. To be honest what I saw of the gardens didn’t excite me. But maybe I didn’t see it all. Maybe I was looking at the net curtains.

Your never far from a statue or two in London. What essentially is a roundabout at the top of Constitution Hill is the Wellington Arch. A grade 1 listed monument and is across the road from Hyde Park.

Hyde Park

Through the arches and past Rotten Row which as well as being empty of people was empty of horses. This wasn’t the crack of dawn it was 10.45am. A time when usually traffic would be buzzing and the pavements full. I had barely passed half a dozen people on the walk past Buckingham palace walls to this point. It was the same through Hyde Park. Yes. There were people out walking. But not that many.

Hello Achilles

I’m beginning to think statues are like buses. You don’t see one for ages and then all of a sudden three come along. Straight into the park and there he was.

The 18ft statue of Achilles, the Greek hero of the Trojan War, commemorates the soldier and politician, Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington (1769-1852). It was installed by order of King George III and unveiled on 18 June 1822. Looking a bit cold and grey there Achilles.

I would have killed for a cuppa. But I suspect the toilets were closed and to be honest I can’t have one without the other. Not these days. And the cold weather.

Animals in War

As I headed out of the park I remembered the war animals monument on Park Lane and headed to have a look. I am usually on the No 36 bus or before the congestion charge and ULEZ driving along Park Lane. As I was walking and not in a hurry I had the time to stop and look.

It was inspired by Animals in War, a book by Jilly Cooper and a national appeal raised the £2 million cost of the memorial.

Something I didn’t expect to find in Mayfair. The Mayfair Chippy. I’ll remember for another day. A take away to eat in the park. I wonder if they do mushy peas.

Selfridges

An empty Selfridges. Usually this entrance is busy. People going in. Coming out with yellow bags. Today nobody was going anywhere.

St Christopher’s Place

The usually busy St Christopher’s Place. Restaurants closed. Shops closed. Galleries closed.

So onto the dentist. A 2 hour appointment. The second in just over a week. But I needed the rest after the walk from the station. Time to plan my return walk, to think of a different route. Typical. I arrived in bright sunshine but as I left the dentist the heavens opened and it was raining cats and dogs. That’s a stupid saying isn’t it?

I headed down through Soho into Covent Garden.

Floral Street

Floral street. The child in me always thinks of Terry Wogan when I see Floral Street. Why? Because he sang the floral dance. Not that I was a fan. Of the song I actually liked him when he did his interview show. But guess what. Floral Street was quite. Very.

Past the side street of the Royal Opera House with the twisted bridge over the road. If memory serves me right this is where the stage door is. Decades ago I was taken to the opera ‘Salome’ by a friend who knew Dame Gwyneth Jones. The first and only time I went backstage at Covent Garden to meet her in her dressing Room. I’d forgotten that. How??

Covent Garden and the piazza

When I first arrived in London I was fascinated with Covent Garden. I’d meet people at The Punch and Judy. Friends and relatives visiting would meet here too. Watching the street entertainers. The crowds of people. The piazza would be full. Not today. Not even the pigeons were around.

Florals Covent Garden

There are some great displays as usual to brighten up the market area.

The Lady magazine.

Past The Lady which has moved out of its london offices. I knew it had been around for ages. The magazine was founded by Thomas Gibson Bowles the maternal grandfather of the  Mitford sisters. Bowles also founded Vanity Fair. The magazine has been produced since 1885. I haven’t had a continuous subscription.

Disco

Down to the Strand and to Charing Cross. My destination to catch the train. But I had time to kill and wandered down Villiers street. These arches and the rainbow doors may not mean much to you. But to a young man from Cardiff in the early eighties they meant one of the largest nightclubs I had ever seen.

Your never far from a green space in London and just next to Embankment Station are Embankment gardens which are kept beautifully. The beds a bit municipal for me but you can’t beat the colours.

Embankment gardens

The feeling had come back to my face. I’d stopped dribbling so it was time to head back home. Nothing less attractive than sitting in the train looking like this. But there again. Who is looking. There’s no one around.

It will be busier for sure on my next visit into central London as it’s not scheduled for a month. By then we will have passed 12 April and things will be slowly opening.

Well unless I can justify another walk. Maybe on the other side of the river. Maybe.

Lockdown Walks

We arrived back from 3 weeks in Mexico just as lockdown went into operation. Three weeks of walking  and sightseeing. Climbing mexican pyramids, looking at art, eating   and garden visits. Then back to a walk once a day, and those 20,000 daily steps soon dropped. Massively.

But we found our groove pretty early on as we pushed ourselves to go on a daily walk. Trust me. Some days it was a push. Even if it meant just a walk around the block admiring other peoples gardens. Not that I’m nosey. Not much ~ that’s why I love NGS open gardens. But after living in the area for over 30 years the walks introduced me to places I had only skirted around before.

Yes I had been to Peckkam Rye but did I know before lockdown that there was a lovely garden in the centre? Did I kow that Brockwell Park in Brixton had a magnificient walled garden? Had I heard of Russia Docks, that the walk at One Tree hill was lovely.? No.No.No.No.No.

Well I do now

Take Peckham Rye park. A good walk through the back streets to get there for us. Across the common where people are working out, where mothers are walking with their children, joggers and cyclists  Across to the centre and to the garden  A garden with a lovely wisteria walk. A Japanese garden. The Sexby garden. A lake – who knew? Everyone I suspect excepy me.

 

 

Brockwell park

I drive past the park often on our way to friends or on our way to Somerset  I lived close to, the park in 1982 and have been in a few times since. To the Lambeth Show, to Pride celebrations. But why hadn’t I ventured further into the park and found the walled gardem. In lockdown we have all been looking for that extra something. In my case it was often four and yeast but also stretched to new gardens and parks to be able to wander and get that fresh air.

 

Beckenham place park

This is one that simply wasn’t on my radar. Not a clue until a friend mentioned she had been there in an instagram post so I looked it up, About 7 miles from us it was once a golf course and now a new municipal park. Helped with a £6M lottery grant the 96 hectare site has been remodeeled into a recreational and natural park  boasting a 45m wide wild swimming lake and you can still see the bunkers. Not in the lake obviously.

The grounds include a georgian mansion built around 1773 and which is currently being run to hold arts events, yoga classes with a bar in the basemet but all on hold at present because of COVID 19.

Add a pretty garden and outbuildings housing a cafe and you have a fabulous walking place and with 96 hectares you don’t feel that it is busy.

Russia Dock Woodland

Another one off our radar. Russia docks was a working dock in Surrey Quays and was used to import soft wood from Sweden and Russia. The docks were closed in the 1970;s  and were planted as a woodland of 34 acres in 1980. It is a lovely woodland park which also includes the Stave Hill Ecological Park.

There are areas of wildflowers and a lake along with the lovely woodland walks.

 

Horniman Museum Gardens

Another one we had driven past as we winded our way through East Dulwich and beyond. We have walked through the gardens a nuber of times in lockdown and they like most gardens change on a daily basis. With 16 acres and a stunning view over London the gardens were some of the most colourful during lockdown and are educational as well as visibly gorgeous.

 

 

 There have been others. One Tree Hill. Burgess Park and Greenwich Park. A walk over Tower Bridge and through St Katherines Dock. A walk along the Thames to view the floating gardens as the Downings Road Moorings or Garden Barge Square, the gardens  can be viewed from the shore at  anytime but for a close-up view, you’ll need to visit on a NGS open day.

 As gardens have opened we have been to RHS Hyde Hall. To Nymans National Trust. Lockdown has had some benefits. We have found and re found local parks and gardens. Hats off to Southwark Lambeth and Lewisham councils.

Bottoms up.

 

Twitter. @pitcombe

InstAgram @pitcombe123

 

 

Not just gardens and gardening! Part 1.

I’m coming to the end of another spell at La Casa in Spain. Something I always have mixed feelings about. I so love it here. People ask me why and for me the answer is easy. The people. The culture. The traditions. Oh and the food and wine. But I also,love that I’m fortunate enough to be able to have the mix of both here and there. There and here. Both very very different. Two very different social lives. Gardens. Cultures.

We have settled in here. Settled into a routine. Favourite restaurants. Cafes. Shops. People. But Ian told me when we bought the house that it wasn’t always a holiday when I’m here. There are still things to do. The house to maintain. The garden to maintain. To be fair he was and is right but we try and squeeze as much into each visit as we can.

The last two weeks have seen us have two separate visitors. The first a friend from Somerset we have known for over 20 years. I think she likes coming to stay as this was visit no 4 in the last 2.5 years. The second my old friend Michael or Ooh allo as I call him and have done now for 37 years. When we first met I said ‘ hello you must be Michael’ to which he respndedn’ Ooh allo’. So that’s his name. Must be welsh thing. You know. We have Jones the Milk. Pete the post.

Ian always says guests are like fish. Both go off after 4 days. Not these two. We always manage to fit something in new each visit.

Mosque Cathedral Córdoba

I try and find something and somewhere different to take Helen when she is here. The first trip,was The Alhambra the second was Malaga, the third was Ronda. So this visit I decided we would go to Cordoba. The thing about having a place in Spain is that you do get visitors and this was the third time I had been. This trip I decided that we wouldn’t drive; but park in Malaga and take the train. Bingo. An excellent idea.

The mesquite cathedral is fabulous. A word that I use a lot about the historical buildings and the gardens here in Andalucia. But they are. Simply fabulous.

The difference between the simplicity of the Mosque against the pomp of the cathedral is staggering. Both beautiful in different ways. I loved the cool repetition of the pillars and the subtlety of the colours of the mosque. With a dash of the sun through the stained glass peeking onto the floor of the mosque.

Reflections from the stained glass

I have seen the Alcazar de low Reyes Cristian gardens at different times of the year and these are lovely at any time. Not on such a grand scale as the Alhambra and probably not as well known as those in Seville but these are beautifully laid out. With some impressive topiary.

The Alcazar dates back to,1328 and has been used in the Spanish Inquisition and as a garrison for Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops in 1810. I didn’t go into the building this time. Steps up to the top are steep and as we had walked and walked and as I had been before I left a helen to do that whilst I had a snooze. In the chapel.

The gardens of the Alcazar de los Reyes Córdoba

The closest I’ll get to being on that plinth in Trafalgar Square

Typically we wandered and wandered in between coffee to,the Roman Bridge. A spectacular looking bridge, a bridge I have yet to cross to the other side. You may recognise it as it was used in The Game of Thrones. As in it was used in the filming of. They closed the bridge to,film apparently. I was neither in the series,:watched a full episode or was there when they closed the bridge.

The Roam Bridge Córdoba

Lunch. Ice cream. Coffee toilet stops and then fell upon a small renovated house in the Jewish quarter with a beautiful courtyard garden.

We are also lucky that the coast is a short drive down the wiggly or windey Road. Dependent on whether you want to go left or right at the coast. I decided that for Sunday lunch we would go left. Down to the costa tropical. Who knew. I didn’t. I’d heard of Costa de Sol. Costa bravo. Cost a lot. But never Tropical. But down the wiggly road and turn left you head toward The province of Granada and the Costa tropical. Sunday was a trip to La Herrudura for lunch at a little chirringuito that a friend had taken us to previously. Lunch right on the beach. Fresh fish. Delicious. A walk on the beach after lunch to round it off. La chambao de Vicente is one of my favourites.

La Herrudura Costa Tropical

Unknown to us until the second year of being here and thanks to our friend Sergio we went to El puerto deportivo de marina de este just around the coast from the beach of La Herrudura. . A quiet marina full of expensive boats. Some restaurants. A large apartment complex. And not too many people.

El puerto deportivo de marina de este

There are two,ways to drive back. The high road. Or the low road. Ear worm starts to,sing the theme tune from some obscure TV series. The low road is the coast road and is the one I like to take. It takes you through the outskirts of Maro and through the town of Nerja. With a stop off in Maro to take in the sight of the Aqueduct that originally took water to the sugar factory down in Maro itself. Today it is used for local irrigation. The sugar factory long gone. Although there is still some sugar cane growing as you walk down the road to the small little beach.

It wouldn’t be a proper visit without a stop off in Nerja. When we first came to the area I have to admit I did t like it. I went there to go to my bank. Nothing else. Oh. And the fabulous fruit shop across from the shop that sells excellent empanadas.

Now we go often. Sometimes to eat in the evening. Sometimes just for a coffee and a wander.

Nerja

There’s always a visit to Nerja. Even if it’s only to have a wander along the Balcón de Europe to look at the sea. Grab an ice cream. So visitor one was due to depart. Ian due to arrive the following day. Two days to relax before visitor no 2. And it starts all over again. Different friend. Largely different places for week 2.

What will be similar is that they have both requested to go to Casa Paco. To El PIlon to see Dani & Loli. And to the Teteria.

Am I complaining. Never. .

Here and there. There and here. Somerset and London.

I’ve been in Somerset for the week. Primarily to garden. To dig out the ground elder and to generally tidy the neglected garden. But. Best laid plans and all that. It rained. No it poured down. The drive down to was wet. Very wet. I stopped off for a toilet break. And sat in the car for ages. Waiting for a break. Which never came.

I did manage to empty the pots at the front of the cottage and to replant with geraniums. This year it’s all a bit pink with a bit of lavender thrown into the pots right outside the front door. ‘Thrown in ‘ now that’s a horticultural technical term. Isn’t it? From a man who still calls Coleus Coleus and gets a row for mixing up my pellies with my geraniums.

Even though we aren’t there a lot I like to keep the front pots planted. Now all I need to do is persuade my godson to water them for me. I’m sure he will. I’ve perfected it over the last 16 years. It will give him an excuse to drive his tractor down the lane. Not that he needs one.

I dug and dug until I was almost in Australia in attempt to clear the ground elder and bindweed roots out. Ian arrived mid week and helped me clear large parts of the problem. There is still a long way to go. Not to Australia. That is a long way. But to be rid of ground elder and bindweed.

If you look closely you can see him under dark skies ideen in the midst of the greenery! It’s a side on view rather than the usual back of the head pic!

We all photograph the best bits in the garden. The most photogenic. The ones with a bit of colour. Behind the honeysuckle and to the right is a really untidy bit of garden. At the bottom there is bindweed trying to strangle the currant bushes. Nettles protecting the raspberry canes. But there are some lovely flashes of colour. A reminder of what the garden has and is hidden. In the weeds!

I planted this orange poppy two years ago and it’s flourished. It has flowered and flowered and there aré still more to come.

There are some straggly dark poppies to come through – found through the weeds and I have scattered seed of the Californian poppy throughout the garden. I’d been recommended the colours Copperpot and Ivory Castle so have used them as well as a general mix. I love the vibrant orange. They remind me of my parents garden c1970’s.

Phlomis

Can I admit it? I’m not a lover of this Phlomis. Was on the garden when we bought the cottage so had been around for over 20 odd years. ( some years were distinctly older than others) and it keeps returning. I prefer the pink one. No that’s not a theme of pink big I find this one a little dull.

There is only one self seeded foxglove in the garden. Two years ago they were abundant. The astrantia continues to grow like a weed – they obviously likes it here. I first bought Astrantia in the old Hadspen gardens. It was run then by Sandra and Nori Pope two inspirational gardeners and where I bought Astrantia Hadspen blood.

Astrantia

The Cornus this year has gone crazy. The tree is so top heavy with flowers that the rain has made it hang very low over the garden. I need to look how and when it should be pruned. It’s a beautiful sight especially at dusk and dawn where it illuminates the border.

Cornus

A the roses are awesome this year. This really pretty pink is smothered in buds. The rambling rector which we thought we had lost has literally hundreds of buds waiting to open and hundreds already open. Not easy to photograph though!!

Rambling Rector

I don’t usually have much luck with clematis. Rubbish at pruning they are generally left to their own devices. But in Somerset there are three that return year in year. This year it is the turn of my old friend Nelly Moser to go crazy. Big fat blooms.

Clematis

It hasn’t been all gardening. A message from a fellow Insta & witterer Harriet Rycroft to say she was in Bruton and was I around to meet for a catch up and a visit some gardens. Some. Well three.

Piet oudolf Field at Hauser& Wirth

Coffee and catch up first and then a wander around the Piet oudolf garden at Hauser and Wirth.

Great planting plan

As the garden is a 5 minute drive from the cottage it’s a garden I pop into whenever I can. The change week on week is startling. The flowers are coming into their own and the colours are striking.

Slower I suspect than previous years bearing in mind our spectacular lack of summer so far. But you can’t help but be impressed. can you? I am.

Foxtail lily

The pond

Phlomis

Common Farm Flowers

Next stop was for a quick cuppa with Georgie at Common Farm flowers. Often my last stop on the drive down before I get to the cottage for a cuppa and a catch up. I love the garden and the cut flower farm and even at the end of a busy picking week – deliveries for House party’s, bouquets and wedding flowers all picked and delivered – the garden is still a riot of colour.

The newt in Somerset

Garden plan

Finally a whirlwind walk around The Newt in Somerset. I still don’t like the name – but I’ll get used to it.

My second visit to the new garden and I absolutely love the colour gardens – a homage to Sandra and Nori Pope who gardened here when we first moved to Somerset.

There is so much to see. First lunch in the garden cafe. Beautifully set so you look out Over the circular walled garden. The walled garden has espalier apples adorning the walls. Each section is Mamés for the county or country where the variety of apple is from. It’s a gorgeous walled garden and unusual in that it is circular.

Circular walled garden

The colour gardens are red. White and blue. I liked the white garden which was beautifully planted. But can I be honest. I’m not a huge lover of totally white gardens. But there was no getting away from it we both agreed it was beautiful.

The blue garden was – well blue and again beautiful.

But for me it was the red garden that stole the show. I just think I’m a bright colour type. I have to admit I missed these gardens on my first visit but to be fair there is so much to see.

Wooden walkway to the gardens

We both agreed that we needed a selfie. It hadn’t happened unless we did. Looking at it sent me to have a haircut the following day.

London Garden

The rain drove us back to London. Not literally. But it was too wet to do anything more in Somerset and I needed to do some things in the garden before I headed off to Spain. The garden is planted in pots. Everything is is pots. The reason was that we hadn’t intended to stay long in the house and we could move the plants we wanted with us. 17 years later it’s still in pots.

is decided that lavender was in order for the window boxes this year and they are doing great. Attracting bees like crazy.

The back garden is small and these two salvia are a welcome colour. Salvia amistad is huge. A beautiful deep colour and as I’ve planted it ( in a large pot) and shoved it ( another horticultural technical term) at the back of the garden it has had to climb up through other stuff and is now as tall ( or as short) as me. Salvia hot lips is well hot and grows like crazy.

Ian’s a fan of tree ferns so we have had to have them in the garden. I love them too but as they are his favourite then it’s only polite to let him buy them. A win win situation.

I love this time of year as the fronds are opening up and are as green as they are. Mark from Todd’s Botanics recommended I put a handful of alpaca poo beans in the crown every 6 months. And to feed liquid feed fortnightly too. I have and it works. Always good to Poo your plants.

I love agapanthus. Easy to grow in pots in the garden and again this year they are.

Budding up nicely. All bar one. All fed on alpaca poo from Lou Archer Yep. I poo my plants.

There is good colour scent and shape in the garden at the moment. The honeysuckle, planted in a Victorian chimney pot blasts out a great scent now that the jasmine has almost finished. The banana is growing well but all would do better with a bit more sun.

If you have got this far then thank you. I realise it’s been more a marathon than a sprint.

Lesson learnt. Blog a bit more often. And shorter.

Here we go again.

So here we are. About to head off to take our Christmas break. I know I know. Life is one long break for me. But some breaks are special. This is two weeks at La Casa Verano Eterno together. No guests. Christmas day with good friends, a few days in Malaga to see the lights and back up the wiggly road to catch up with more Spanish friends.

Oh. I suspect there will be gardening too. There always is for me. Am I complaining? Hell no.

The decision to have a house in Spain is up there with the best we have ever made along with early retirement.

I’m black and blue from pinching myself. We both love it which is a bonus!

So as we plan for 2019 I’ve had a bit of a reflect on this year. I can’t believe where the year has gone but here I am another year older. Wiser. Heavier.

This has been our first full year in Spain. Full as in 12 months and full as in full on. We have had friends visit, some for the second and third time. Those are the ones who have said it would make sense to leave my toiletries in the cupboard – don’t you think? Which suggests and I hope that there will be more. Visits. Not toiletries.

Not so many trips to the Alhambra this year though, Shame. I think we only went 6 times last year. This years destination of choice was Ronda. Ronda is stunning. The bridge takes your breath away. Well. It does if you walk to halfway down and past the ‘do not pass beyond this point. Or you’ll die ‘. Everyone passed the sign. I didn’t die then but nearly did on the walk back up.

There is a great tapas bar recommended by a friend in Somerset. Fantastic tapas. She said ‘oh you have to go visit the toilet’.

Tapas in Ronda

Now when I  was in Paris decades ago I visited a new and popular cafe. I went to the loo.  I washed my hands. That part was obvious. The loo was resplendent. Opulent. But I still couldn’t figure it out. Until someone came in and used what I had thought was a water feature. Water cascading down the wall. Well. It wasn’t obvious. This loo had nothing on  that. Think airplane loo. Only narrower. Smaller. So tight the door scraped your bottom as you slid the door behind you. Room for you. And you alone. No turning round. Oh. And politically correct. Not – No ladies.

I’d recommend the tapas. But find a toilet before you go. Especially if your female. And breathe in if yur male

Katherine from Oz

With Ooh Allo

Mrs Webb

The boy’s

John and Moira

Helen

The Dream team

Newbery & Pullen – what a shocker

There has been Poohgate. Don’t ask. But it’s gone and never to be repeated. I don’t know where we would be without Sergio Fernandes and Victor Ramon.

No not a Spanish flamenco duo but our invaluable Estate agent and plumber who are great friends too. And who got me out of this mess. I wasn’t under there though at times it felt like I was! But I smelt sweeter. Just.

Oh s**t

We did a fantastic road trip through Cordoba, Casares, Toledo, and Salamanca.

We have been in Spain for some major festivals – Semana Santa being pretty spectatcular. a bit spooky but the traditions upheld through the generations and like all Spanish festivals so very family orientated. The daily processions are each and every one different. Different colours. Different traditions. Who doesn’t love a bit of music, marching, costumes and the smell of incense. Oh add tapas paella and vino and it makes for a happy time.

For Noche del Vino – a big event in Cómpeta, although we have missed both the 2017 & 2018 Ferrias.

Semana Santa Salamanca

Palm Sunday Salamanca

The amazing World Heritage site of Casares with the beautifully maintained ancient buildings.

Toledo was fascinating and we stayed in the house once owned by the famous flamenco Guitarist Paco De Luca. Of course I had heard of him and his music, hadn’t I? Um. Sorry no. But I have since downloaded a couple of his albums. I can now be found in the kitchen throwing a few shapes. But only if no one is looking.

Spanish flamenco guitar

Toledo

We saw the magnificent mosque cathedral in Cordoba. The words stunning and awesome are often over used. But sorry. This was awesome and stunning all wrapped up into one. Or two actually as within the building was a cathedral as well. As decorative as the mosque was simple. As bling as the mosque was understated. Symmetrical.

We saw the fabulous patio gardens of Cordoba where they have an annual competition. We were too early for that but we did get a flavour of what they were like. I’m hoping for a visit in 2019 for the patio festival.

Patio Gardens Cordoba

We saw the gardens of the Alcazar which were pretty magnificent. The use of water and the rills as lovely as they are in any of these beautifully maintained gardens. Oh. And entry into the historical sites is so reasonably priced. Suitably so that you don’t mind missing some things as you know that you will be back.

Less to see than at the Alhambra in terms of size and palaces but it’s a definite just for the gardens.

The garden has been a delight. Not so my water bill. But as I once said. I don’t smoke. I don’t drink and I don’t go out with women. So my money goes on my garden. It’s been a huge learning curve for me this Mediterranean garden lark. New plants. New conditions. Watering issues. Tree rats eating the irrigation pipes. Last month making sure I shut the gates around the house. We think we had a wild boar sniffling under the almond trees. I don’t want to wake up and find a boar in the pool. Oh says Ian ‘ there’s often an old bore in there’ thanks Ian. Your humour knows no bounds.

I am yet to see the boar – thou there are signs he/she/they have been visitors to our neighbours too. Somerset was badgers and plenty of water. . Spain is boar and for the most part a distinct lack of it.

The Spanish continues to improve. I’m now allowed to order chicken at the restaurants and not have Ian cringing or the staff laughing at me. Pronunciation is as bad as my SM spelling. I think I’m ordering chicken but a skip of the tongue and I’m ordering a part of the male anatomy. Funny once. Embarrassing thereafter.

In reality we could just stay in the pueblo blanco. It has everything we need. Friends. Restaurants. Cafes. Shopping. Sunshine and for those that follow me on Twitter know i witter about the sunsets. Because they are simply spectacular.

So I head off to spend quality time with Ian, to relax and reflect and plan for 2019. More adventures.

Two nights in Malaga to see the Christmas lights. Malaga is a hidden gem of a place so we can explore as tourists for a few days

Remember Christmas can be stressful. It doesn’t need to be perfect. It doesn’t need to be expensive. There is so much pressure to perform. To have the best food. The best presents. Ian and I gave up giving each other Christmas presents 20 years ago. We tend to see things and think Ian/Andrew would like that and buy it. There and then.

The best gift we can all give is the gift of our time. Time to spend with each other. With friends. That costs nothing and the memories that you make are forever. The memories of the continuing Spanish adventure will continue.

Merry Christmas. Feliz Navid and Nadolig Llawen.