Didn’t we have a lovely time ~ Jerez & Cadiz

Well we are back in Spain again. For the second time in 6 weeks after an absence of 52. To be fair it seems like we haven’t been away. Except for the wearing of masks in shops and when entering restaurants and if you are unable to social distance.

I love this time of year in Spain. The temperature has dropped and is comfortable. The mosquitos are retreating and the coast is clear. Clear of hordes of beach goers which means quiet walks ( not romantic ) along the beach. But for the final time in 2021 Ian has booked a trip within a trip for 4 nights whilst we are here. He has said again that we are not spending the whole time here in the garden. The last trip and with some help we have got the garden back on track so this trip it will be easier. Little did he know that there are hundreds of bulbs to plant ~ but that will be for December.

First stop after a 3.5 hour drive in the dark. Was Jerez. The joy of being in Competa is that there are so many places of interest within decent driving distance. Malaga. Granada. Ronda. Córdoba. Seville. After four and a half years those have been done. Some more than once. Some more than that. In our first year I had visited Granada countless times primarily to go to the Alhambra. Ian has a list of places that we should see and some for next year will need more planning as they are further afield.

I digress. The early start was for a reason. We had booked our stay in Jerez and then tried to book tickets to see the Horses at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art but the only day there was a show was the day we arrived and the tickets had to be collected by 11am. So it was a 6am start. There were two benefits to the early start. One was that the roads were relatively quiet and two it meant we arrived to collect the tickets before the arrival of the coaches. Which in turn for an hour we virtually had the place to ourselves.

We arrived to the training of some horses and young riders outside in various parts of the grounds and to a cafe full of young riders taking their break. I’d like to say I understand what they were talking about but their excitement was like a runaway train. Not only was there individual training there were carriage driving training going on as well.

The main event takes place in the Picadero ( indoor arena) which when at full capacity seats 1,600 spectators with amazing views of the arena. We had excellent front row seats mid way along the arena with great views. I mainly took videos of the horses which can be found on my Instagram page @pitcombe123

There is so much more to the School. In the grounds there is also the Palace. The Palacio Recreo de las Cardenas built in the 19th century and designed by Charles Garner who also designed the Paris Opera House and the Monte Carlo Casino. We were the only visitors on the ground floor which is the only part open ~ benefit of being early birds.

Ian had booked a small Airbnb for four nights in a great location with easy access on foot to the sights and tapas bars. Whilst the apartment was compact it had an amazing terrace which was an added bonus together with some interesting pots.

Fab Airbnb terrace

Jerez is an interesting place. The architecture varied and with a lot of buildings in various stages of being reformed. It sounds a strange thing to say but the city is very Spanish. But it was. Very. There weren’t hoards of tourists. ( like us) or coach tours. It was very easy to wander around although easy to get lost in the small narrow Andalucian streets though great for shade. As well as being famous for its Horses Jerez is also known for its Sherry. I’ll admit now. I’m not a Sherry lover. I was listening to a radio programme recently where the Spanish were berating how bad the UK is at drinking Sherry. We can all relate to our parents or grandparents or even us opening a bottle of Sherry and be handed a glass from the same bottle a year or so later. This horrifies the Spanish who say it should be treated like a bottle of wine and not left to be drunk once a year at Christmas. I thought growing up that the only Sherry was the sweet Sherry dragged out of the cupboard at Christmas. Harvey’s Bristol Cream if my memory serves me well. We didn’t do a Sherry tour this time but have been told that it’s a must. Just to educate us as to what delights there are out there. Not just a sweet Sherry at Christmas.

Sherry anyone?

Day two was a walk through the narrow streets to the Alcazar a former moorish Alcazar probably built in 11c. Not as big or grand as Seville Granada or Córdoba but interesting. Particuarly as once again when we arrived we were the only ones walking around. Gorgeous large olive trees planted in the Grounds but very little colour in the gardens.

Alcazar Jerez
The baths and the Mosque
Within the grounds of the Alcazar Jerez

The Mosque is the only one remaining of the eighteen once present in the city. I love the star shaped skylights in the ceiling of the bath house which lets in amazing light. You can see some of the original workings of the heating system too which probably worked better than ours at home.

Within the palace is there is the Municipal Pharmacy from the 19th century, beautifully carved shelves and potions and lotions on them all. Along with original glass bottles which I’d happily have taken home.

Lotions and potions

We spent the rest of the day wandering the narrow streets. Stopping for lunch. Afternoon tea and cakes. Getting lost.

Streets of Jerez.

As well as Jerez we had decided to spend a day in Cadiz. Instead of driving we had booked the train which was only a 45 min journey with a 20:min walk from the Airbnb. As usual we decided to get there early and spend the whole day wandering with no agenda. . Another day of leaving in the dark and arriving in the dark. But the streets were quiet and had been cleaned already as we walked to the station.

Jerez ~ walk to the station.

Travel but train is so easy isn’t it. As long as the train goes straight from A to B with no changes. Fast efficient and clean. 45 minutes later we had arrived in Cadiz. As we left the station we were presented with the sight of the cruise liner Queen Elizabeth. Appears Queens are like buses. Three arrive at once. Seeing these cruise liners close up cements my thinking that I don’t want to go on one. Friends love it. But I think for me it’s too big and I have a fear of not being able to get away. Getting away from people. The puerto de Cadiz had a few liners in dock. All huge ships.

Queen Elizabeth

First impressions of Cadiz were good. Final impressions at the end of the day was it was great. It is so good to walk and find your bearings before the crowds descend but to be fair it was never so busy that it was uncomfortable.

One other benefit was arriving to sunrise over the city and the port.

Early morning Cadiz

A walk first along the Campo del Sur to the Castle of San Sebastian at the end of La Caletta. A lovely early morning walk with sea air and the sun rising. What more could you want? To be honest a strong coffee. I had been up for hours.

The castle and watchtower is on a small island connected to the mainland by the walkway but the interior of the castle is currently closed. Both have an interesting and long history.

Castle of San Sebastián

There’s always time for a coffee stop before you climb the tower. We had passed through the square in front of the cathedral when we arrived just as things were just opening up so having done a perusal of the area we were back to people watch before we ventured into the cathedral. People watch we did. Well I did as I’m more nosey than Ian. It was fascinating as there were at least three cruise ships in at the port and I was trying to guess the nationalities of the people. Some were easier than others. The Spanglish gave some away.

Cadiz Cathedral

After breakfast and the enduring wait for the bill we managed to get into the cathedral but not before listening to the tour guide from one of the cruise ships giving his talk to his captive audience. The cathedral wasn’t the most interesting or beautiful for me. I guess I keep comparing the glitz with the last one we visited in Granada where everything that glittered was gold. This one had a remarkable piece of silver instead. Imagine having to polish that once a week.

Silver

I can usually guess how much I liked a place by the number of photographs I took. There weren’t many. The cathedral was beautiful. But nothing stood out for me. Except being told off by Ian for making spooky noises in the crypt and threatening to find a creaky door noise on my phone. Childish. Me. Yes.

I swiftly walked past the entrance to the church Tower but Ian was determined. “You’ll get great views from the top” ‘I know’ I replied “but you know me and stairs. I may get to the top then panic about coming down’ We have a difficult relationship. Not me and Him. Steps and me. As in Steps. Not 5.6.7.8 steps. After 30 years he just ignores me. He says it’s easier. For us both. But the idea of photo opportunities won me over. What won me over more was that there were no steps. No stairs. Just a very long. circular walk to the top. And obviously back down again.

That’s unusual

I usually panic on the way down but I got another telling off. I started signing ‘hi how hi ho hi ho it’s off to woke we go” Especially as we turned the corner and met a couple coming up. They, unlike me , we’re not amused.

Hi ho. Hi ho.

It’s amazing the places you can find. Hidden in a narrow side street is the Oratoria de La Santa Cueva. Leading figures of 18th century Cadiz used the building to withdraw and to undertake spiritual penance. They belonged to the mysterious Spiritual Withdrawal Congregation. It’s a building of two halves, down into the basement you find the gloomy and austere chapel. Dark. Minimalistic. A bit creepy to be honest. Dedicated to the Passion.

In total contrast the upper floor of the High Sacramemt Chapel is opulent and was deliberately designed in contrast to the penitential chapel in the basement. In addition to its opulence it holds a secret stash of Goya paintings in the arches above the alcoves. With beautiful light coming in from the roof Another interesting piece of information ~ Joseph Haydn wrote his work “The Seven Words Last of Our Saviour on the Cross” for this chapel,

The austere Chapel
Opulence and Goya

Sightseeing is exhausting and one needs to feed one’s soul. And stomach. Sadly the tapas bar recommended by a friend was full but the area was full of fabulous little tapas bars. A great late lunch we were ready for more walking.

Lunch

Would I recommend Cadiz. Definetly. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t go to the parks. We didn’t go up the tower. But. We will be back.

Maybe if I win the lottery by private yacht like this one moored in the port. It looked a bit space age to me but definitely stood out.

Lottery win needed.

I suspect my mode of travel will be more subdued.

Reality.

There will be no more trips within a trip for the rest of the year. There will be a Malaga trip. Both to the Christmas lights which are fabulous and this year to a new event at the Botanical gardens. That reminds me to check out the arrangements!

Here and there. There and here.

It’s been a busy time in the Mathieson ~ Jones household over the last few weeks. It’s been a bit here there and everywhere. But we managed to get a few weeks together over Christmas in Spain. Second Christmas and third New year. How time flies. In Spain not with Ian. Ask him he’s says about 8 years. That’s dog years by the way. Add another 20 and your nearer the time.

The weather can be changeable and when I arrived it was wet. Now spending half our time in Somerset for the last 25 years you’d think I’d be used to wet. But in Spain it’s a different kind of wet. Yes I know I’m a little bit bonkers but trust me it rains in the West Country. It’s often biblical like last night as I returned on the A303 and the M3. Rain so hard you couldn’t see Stonehenge. To be honest not that I want to. If I have time to see it it means I’m stuck in a traffic jam and after 25 years of passing it it hasn’t changed. Not a bit.

But the weather was proper pants when I arrived. I didn’t go out for two days as it rained so hard that the water was rushing down the hill. You would have been able to surf down La Rampa I’m sure. Not that I’d know. I didn’t venture out for two days. But the rain makes me happy in Spain. Wet ground means easier planting. Our water deposit is full.

Ian arrived a few days after me and it’s always amazing at what he manages to pack into his case. As well as some Xmas goodies which we would struggle to get and of course we can’t live without there were some major additions. A while back I had bought a fabulous cake stand and dome from my friend Mr Glass in London from London Times Vintage up in Islington. I wanted to bring it to Spain but was nervous. It’s heavy. On a stand and is glass. It arrived with Ian in his suitcase. All in one piece.

Those who follow me on Instagram are well used to seeing Ian’s back. This is one I made him stand still on the terrace looking down to the coast.

Trust me you don’t know how hard it is to get Ian stand for a photo. Let alone pose. Before I’ve even pressed the shutter he’s on the move thinking it’s done.

But the weather picked up. Chilly mornings. Glorious days. Chilly nights. That I can cope with. Oh. And have I ever mentioned sunsets. Maybe one or two. Hundred. At this time of year they are stunning and the views vary from the campo to the town to the areas above the town. Luckily there are others as obsessed as me who take sunset pics

On a clear day we can see the coast of Malaga, to the left Gibraltar. And further to the left usually on a different day Morocco.

As we had rain it was an opportunity to plant the final bulbs. Many I had planted with a pick axe earlier had started to poke through so this time planting was easier with the ground being a little damp. The garden in Somerset is like a paddy field after all the rain we have had. In Spain we do actually have a pick axe. Not that I use it that often but it may be useful if I ever want fancy dress as one of the seven dwarfs. Ian says I’d be a mix of grumpy, dopey and sleepy. Point is. He’s probably right.

Last years freesia are already in flower and a gorgeous yellow one was in bloom. Was is the correct term. I knocked the head off as I clumsily passed by! They grow amazingly well in the garden and I finally planted the last batch. We have pots dotted all around and the scent is fantastic a big winner from Peter Nyssen again.

There is already colour in the garden. The osteospermum are spreading like crazy and as each day gets a bit warmer more open. That and the one Gazania that seems to be way ahead of the others.

The almond trees are bursting into flower. Sadly not ours this time as ours are the latest to flower. Probably in the whole of Andalucia. Which in many ways is good. Maybe a bit less windy to have the beautiful flowers blown like confetti across the garden.

There are two different flowering types in our garden and our neighbours. Both our neighbours are out already. I love the pinky red throat of the second almond flower.

Patience is a virtue. One that I’m not great at. Particularly where plants and flowers are concerned. To be honest best I just say patience isn’t a virtue.

I witter on about the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. Not a lot. But it’s so coming into life. The acid yellow of the oxalis pew caprae is beginning to carpet the ground. This year they seem to be taller and more abundant than last year. I blame the weather!

We are over 600m above sea level. A bit exposed in parts so when the wind blows the wind blows. The enormous leaves of the strelitzia Nicolai get shredded. I’m gutted that there are no signs of flowers ~ we last had them in 2018. Fingers crossed for this year. They are magnificent in their blue/black beauty.

We have a number of strelitzia Reginae with flower spikes which will be bursting into the fabulous bird of paradise flower in the next few weeks.

When we moved into La Casa I was surprised to find that we had a Swiss cheese plant. As a child growing up we had one along with the obligatory rubber plant sitting in the sitting room. This one is in the garden. Really slow growing and to be honest it’s taken me over two years to like it. But I do. I’m hoping it doesn’t grow as large as the ones in the Botanical Gardens Malaga. Then I won’t like it. But I suspect there is no chance of that. The seed pods of Sesbania Punicea are still hanging and are a great shape. You can hear the seeds rattle inside as the pods are so dry.

The dodonia s a pretty dull plant most of the time but when autumn and winter come the green leaves turn to a gorgeous red. I’ve tried replanting some of the seedlings but they just don’t take. The final leaves of the grape are falling ~ hurrah as they are a pain to keep sweeping up. I know I should store them for leaf mould, but I fear the tree rats or some slithering snake may take up residence.

I love the foxtail agave. A lot. This is one at the bank at the back of the house. Them there’s the plecanthrus which is in the main bed. Has a bit of a funny smell. I can’t explain it. Looks a bit like an alien as it grows. Succulents on the back bed. Mr Prickly ~ the one of three healthy prickly pears. Which fruited this year.

We also did a bit of walking ~ down at the coast in Nerja. And a walk from Canillas de Albaida to Competa. A walk in an area between Canillas de Albeida and Canillas de Aceituno.

It wasn’t all gardening. Quite of bit of this trip was leisure as well. Picking lemons from next doors garden. With permission! Making the final batch of quince jelly. Picking olives to dry salt them. Making limoncello. I must remember to take that one out of the cupboard when I’m next home

So for now it’s a waiting game. For some more rain. For the alliums to start poking through. The orange blossom to make an appearance. Time to prune the grape and the olives. There’s never a dull moment, and nearly three years later I’m still excited when I drive up the wiggly road.

And surisingly. It all starts again soon.

You’ve gotta have friends

So this trips not all been about the garden.It has also been time for friends. Ooh Allo Mike was out for 5 days. Then the ‘dream team’ were on tour. The Dream team. Common Farm dream team. Since I’ve retired I’ve spent some time with Georgie , Lorraine and Sharon helping out at the Flower Farm. Been the gofer. Bottle washer and even let loose on the wedding flowers. Lorraine on the other hand is queen of the jam jar posies. Sharon and Georgie the leaders of the pack. The experts.

So we planned a ‘dream team’ trip to our house in Spain. A chance for me to show them the garden. The town. The wine. I managed to book a trip to the Alhambra. Despite living close to Common Farm flowers it was the power of social media that brought us together. Me ordering flowers from the flowery lady up the lane. Then her delivering to the cottage. And it went on. Progressed into friendship

The date was set. Tickets booked. House cleaned. Garden tidied.

The flight arrived early. We arrived 5 minutes late. They were in arrivals. Wearing tiaras. Waiting. Smiling. ‘ Well’ they said. ‘You’ve said all week on social media it was a royal visit so we have arrived prepared’. They only came off once we got to the car. Trust me to be mean and park in the car park with the longest walk. Home up the dark and windey road. Wine. Snacks. Bed. In that order. But only after a lot of catching up.

To be fair. Saturday morning wasn’t a great start to the weekend. Table laid for breakfast. Orange juice squeezed. Kettle on the boil for more coffee. Boom. Off went the electrics. Nothing else to do but head up into Town.

We managed a wander around the market, coffee and croissants in the Plaza and then happened to bump into the plumber. Now I know what your thinking. Electrics. Plumber? Well along with our friend and Estate Agent they arrange everything for us. He promised that if it wasn’t on in a few hours Domingo would come out. On a saturday. Just like that.

Theres always something going on in the town. I couldn’t have arranged it better. A children’s fancy dress parade through the town. Some parents ( mothers!) dressed up. Some grandmothers. Tiny babies in pushchairs. A great family event wandering through the narrow whitewashed streets.

Next stop Nerja. A drive down the wiggly road to the coast. I need to up my game. This is our standard itinerary. Competa and the market if its a Saturday. A drive to the coast. Either Nerja or Torre del Mar. Today was Nerja. A short drive – after depositing Ian at the house to wait for Domingo – oh and after a couple of glasses of Cava – them not me we headed off.

Now you cant be in Spain and not stop off at a traditional Tapas Bar. Surprise surprise. We did. Packed too. With Spanish. Always a good sign. So we sat at the bar like locals. But stood out like we were not. Tempting Georgie into trying the different choices. A typical Tapas. One drink. One small tapas free. Oh. And wine and beer. For them. Not me. We had to get back up the wiggly road

A wander through the streets. A look at the sea.

Presents for the children. Not the spanish children obviously. The wriggler and Bear back in Somerset. And back up the hill to a house with electricity. Good old Domingo.

Supper at one of out favourite restaurants El Pilon.

A bucket of gin for an aperifif – Dani doesn’t know the word small. Even in Spanish. After 3 weeks of lessons I do. But to no avail. I try when he pours my caramelo. Caramel Vodka. My nightcap of choice these days. Another great evening – great food – conversation and catching up

Back at the house and time to relax. Not quite sure what Lorraine was explaining. But this was during the day and no drink was involved!

Sunday was our main event. A trip to the Alhambra. Now its not easy to get tickets. But it is. Booking opens three months in advance and tickets are limited to the Nasrid Palaces. Entry to these are by timed tickets. So unless you know your dates in advance you can struggle. Most of our visitors haven’t know their dates so far in advance so we always start with well it would be nice but. But. No guaranteed. Persistence is key. Keep checking the official website and days open up. Slowly. So I’ve managed to get dates for Feb. April and May. Yes. Glutton. one word of advice – they have a new booking system and they ask for names. Passport numbers and ages. Sorry ladies. I know and I will keep it secret. Passports required to be carried. But rarely checked.

I knew Lorraine wouldn’t arrive without something ‘dream-team’ related. I wasn’t wrong. Printed Tshirts. Yes before you ask. Im breathing in. We loved them. Thank you Lorraine.

A fashionable arrival. A pashmina that would mean Georgie wouldn’t get lost. Lorraine hidden under a parka. Umbrellas supplied by Ian. Yes. It was drizzly and cold. I keep forgetting how different the temperatures can be. But the Alhambra is high up in the Sierra Nevada. There’s skiing and snowboarding close by. Not me of course. Imagine. Me. Snowboard. Never. It would need stabilisers. But it was cold. Bloody cold.

A wander first around General life and the gardens. They are just planting the annuals in the beds so it will be interesting to see how it goes between now and my visit in May. Apologies to Lorraine. I kept wittering on about the box. But it looked sad. Very sad. They also had some myrtle hedges. Interesting.

A rare sighting of Ian. You usually only see him walking ahead if me.

Why are they laughing below? Because Mr Camera was trying to get a good shot and nearly went into one of the rills. Wet feet. Freezing cold. I would have wanted to go home. But its a nice picture.

I have become a regular visitor to the Alhambra over the last few months and every time I visit there is something else to see. Things I’ve missed. Things I see differently.

Its also great to see it through other peoples eyes. Standing in the midday queue being read the history of the Alhambra. Rather nicely read too. In one of these pics Georgie is talking poo. Poo and soil. She did a live Insta feed on it too.

The gardens change every visit. Two weeks before the dream team visit they were planting the bedding plants. In some areas there were gorgeous ranunculus. Shiny red ranunculus. Stocks. Scented. I am back there again in a month. Then again in May.

The Nasrid Palace is the jewel. The tiling. The ceilings. The stonework. Its beautiful and I think it exceeded expectations

. I know i can be a bit blasé about it. But I’ve been 4 times in the last year and have another two booked in. But it changes. Not the palaces obviously. But the light. The gardens. The tourists!

During the late summer I will book for a night tour. I think to see the palaces at night will be magical.

We even had chance of a silly selfie! Thats unusual. Both in a picture. At the same time.

You’d never know it was cold would you. Not by the look of Lorraine all wrapped up in her coat. Hood up. Shes the one in the blue by the way! The pink hat and green coat had nothing to do with us! Or Lorraine.

The one thing you do at The Alhambra is walk. And walk. And walk. It covers a large space. The gardens. The towers. The palaces. Up and down steps. To the top of the towers with amazing views of Granada. So there’s always a relief when you get a Saga stop. Especially on nice chairs!

A chance to sit and look out over Granada. Rest the pink trainer feet. Catch a breath. Post an Insta.

We spent five hours there. Yet still you don’t have time to see absolutely everything. Back home up the wiggly road. Out for supper.

But first Georgie wanted to see a sunset. She had seen loads on my timeline. But she wanted to see one for herself. Saturday night was overcast. No sunset.

Thankfully Sunday night obliged.

She isn’t really having to reach above the hedge to get a good pic.

It was a great weekend. Lots of chatter. Garden chat. People chat. Nonsense chat. Wine. Good food. And especially laughter. It will be repeated. Hopefully when the sun is hot. But not too hot. Diaries at the ready.

It’s not all about the garden 

Being in Spain isn’t just about the new Mediterranean garden. Though at times that’s how it feels. It’s all new to me. The plants. The soil. The weather. Oh. The weather. I do like a bit of sun. But not in July or August. It’s too hot. And I never thought I’d say that!

But there have been visitors. Which I love. Which means we have to explore. And explore we have over the last 6 months. Trips to the Alhambra. Twice. Trips to the coast. Numerous. A trip to Malaga.  Oh. The trip to Malaga. Where  I parked in the car park of Cortes de Ingles. And walked into the old town. And where I couldn’t find the car in the car park when I got back. Had to retrace our steps back through the store. You could smell the fear. A hire car. Whose registration I don’t know – yes it’s on the key fob I know but in the panic I forgot. We eventually found it. After half an hour. By which time I was ready to cry.

So we bought a small house in Andalucia. In Competa. Up a long  and winding road. In the hills. By now you will know it has a garden. A lovely Mediterranean garden which I have bored the pants off everyone with twittering instagramming and generally talking about it. Even in my sleep. A style of house I didn’t want. I wanted a town house. A terrace. No garden. No pool. A walk to the bar. To the cafes. Which is the total opposite to what we bought.

Casa Verano Eterno. – House of Eternal summer.
We were also due to be based in Frigliana another white washed village  but the owners of the B&B we had booked cancelled a few days before. Not  because  we are bad guests but because they had a family crisis.

So Ian did his research and we booked into a fantastic B&B in Competa –Casa b Run by Carsten and  Bente who’s hospitality and breakfasts are incredible.  But  being based in Competa it gave us a lot of time to explore the town.  

The view at Casa B
Where is  Competa? I asked the same question to Ian when we booked to visit in March. It’s just over an hour from Malaga and and hour and a half to Granada and the wonders of the Alhambra. It is the jewel in the crown of the whitewashed villages. It’s breathtaking on first sight. Surrounding by the mountain ranges and is that type of place which you would say has a lovely feel. Which it does. The town has everything you could want. Great places to eat. Pharmacies. ( important when you get a swollen eye!). Bakeries. Fruit shop. Great places to eat and watch the world go by.  Wine shop with lovely local wines.  An amazing ironmongers. A petrol station. A kitchen shop ( heaven for me) and excellent friendly service from everyone. The Estate Agent we used  has guided us through the first 6 months with a general ease.

Competa

In August every year is the Noche del Vino – the night of wine. It’s an enormous annual  event in the town and there is a lunch cooked and prepared in the Plaza de Vendimia.  The  grapes are crushed by the Mayor and the lunch is served – Migas.  To be honest. It looked a bit like gruel. It’s olive oil and fried breadcrumbs. Add plenty of local wine to wash it down. Which is good. We were wimps and didn’t stay up to watch the flamenco dancing. There’s next year.


It is a lovely  white Andalusian town. High on the hill. And with its own lonely goatherd. Where the man and his goats wanders across the hills from side to side. You can smell them before you see them. A whiff of goat is not to be forgotten. Ever. And I love it. Hugely. The town. Not the smell of goat. Which I don’t by the way. The mountains are high. And no. I haven’t had a Maria  Von Trapp moment  running up the hills. Singin I am sixteen going on seventeen. More like 60 going on 70. If I could get up the hill in the first place.

Eau de la goat
I can usually be found in the square of a lunchtime. At my favourite place Casa Paco. Or in the evening to be fair.  Or at any time of the day. It’s friendly.

Plaza Almijara Competa


We are lucky to be able to get to the coast in no time at all –  should we wish to. Which we do occasionally.  Thrty minutes  down the wiggly road you get to Torre de Mar.  A long beach with a very long promenade. Which in the summer is busy. And I mean busy. Out of season it is lovely. Much quieter and the cafes are still cooking their sardines on the beach in boats on coals.

Torre Del Mar
Edit
Sardines cooked on the beach
Beach umbrella for one

Down the opposite road from the house. – the windy road rather than wiggly – you get to Nerja and further beyond the Costa Tropical. That’s a new one on me. Costa Del sol. Costa Brava yes. But never Costa Tropical. I was taken for supper to a lovely restaurant La Barraca on the beach at playa de Cantarijan. In the summer the beach and restaurant is only accessed by bus down a hugely steep hill. At night you can take your car down. I’m not sure I will. It’s very steep. Oh. And it’s one of the areas famous nudist beaches. We went at night. And ate. Fully clothed. Me. Naked. With mozzies. Never. The food and beach is great.

Restaurant La Barraca

It’s in a natural park and there is the fear of fire. You can drive down in the evening. I keep meaning to take a ian there. Maybe  next time.

We hadn’t explored Nerja much until I had a friend staying this time. To be honest it was complete noseiness on my part. Some friends have said they are coming to Nerja early in 2018 and if we were here we should meet up. So i went in search of their hotel. And found a new part of the town I didn’t know was there. Lanes of Tapas Bars and a nice long beach.

The beach at Nerja

The boys are back in town
Nerja

Ian has a weird desire to go to Torelominos. Which we will do. Just for a look – it has nothing to do with the IKEA close by. Honest.

There are hidden gems we have yet to explore along the Costa  Tropical. To explore beyond Malaga on the Costa del Sol. There’s MIjas. There’s Marbella. Worth a visit when we have friends staying. 

There have been a couple of trips to The Alhambra . Visitors say ‘are you sure you want to go again ‘ the answer is always yes. It’s an awesome place to visit and its a bargain. A day visit with entrance two the Nasrid Palace is one €14.95 euro. The Nasrid Palce is awesome and I want to go and visit at night.  The visit is worth it just to see the beauty of that palace. This weekend we visited in the rain. And boy did it rain. 


But the skies were kind to us and we had enough of a clear spell to do the outside.

The drive to Granada is easy and we have earmarked a weekend to stay overnight and explore the town. It looks fabulous. It’s too much to do The Alhambra and Granada town in one day. Unless you are on a tourist trip doing the whole of Eure in a week. Which we are not.

Granada a view from The Alhambra
Of course i have managed to look at the gardens at The Alhanbra on each visit and i have done a bit of a blog already about my August visit. Link to that is here.  A friend has reminded me about the Botanical garden in Malaga. That’s been added to the list. That’s what I love about social media. People tell you things you didn’t know. There are some gardens open in and around Granada so some forward olannning is needed for next year.

This visit  the  general life gardens at the Alhambra  remained colourful but the flowers were going over. I do think that even when not picture perfect the flowers look good. I was still surprised at the planting. In August I thought that the planting looked pretty English.  There were plants I hadn’t seen in a while. Some my parents had grown in the 70’s. Those tall red bedding salvias for one. A lot of orange tagetes. Some plants I want for my garden next year not the previous two but a fabulous euphorbia that was fantastic against the orange. 


There was an abundance of agapanthus the flowers of which I had missed. Come to think of. It. There were no seed heads to be seen when we were there this time.

Colours in the Alhambra gardens Nov 2017
Malaga is interesting as well We will be there for New Year and apparentky they decorate the town at Xmas. Will be interesting to go and see. My friend Helen and I did the Cathedral this time and it was interesting. Shame my pictures weren’t which was disappointing. Must have been all that incense wafting about! There is always a next time.  But at about €6 Euro it’s a bargain.

Street in the old town Malaga

The colours of some  of the houses in the old town are fabulous. We need more time to explore. The Picasso Museum is earmarked for the December trip. As long as I’m not Picasso’d out. I have seen a fair few PIcasso exhibitions these last 18months  but I’m sure the museum here should be fab.  If not there will be more Tapas time.

What  I also find interesting here is the cost of entry into the places of interest. By interesting. I mean how inexpensive it is to vist. Unlike many in the UK.  We have two days in Seville with friends at New Year  which we are all looking forward to. We are so liucky that there is so much within easy reach to visit. Cordoba is on the list for 2018 as well. We have yet to decide whether we drive or let the train take the strain.

But I pinch myself regularly just as to how lucky we are to have such wonderful opportunities.  I didn’t expect retirement to be so exciting   So varied. And such fun

So. It’s not all been about plants. There has been food. Tapas. Of course. An amazing Paella at El Pilon,  a lunch of avacado and spicy prawns at Casa Paco. Food to fuel the gardening. I can’t help myself.

Paella at El Pilon
Toasted avocado and spicy prawn at Casa Paco
For me learning a new language is hard. Last week I learnt a few phrases to introduce my friends to the waiter at the restaurant that we use. A lot. All was well. He understood what I had said. Corrected one word. Then bingo. He replied and my face was like a rabbit in the car headlights. I got the first and last word of the sentence. Nodded my head said Si a lot. And smiled. They need to speak to me like some peiople speak to them. Slowly. Very slowly. BUT I am determined to get there but be prepared for some disasters. Ian is doing brilliantly and we are both looking to arrange one to one conversational classes when we are there. 

I am so looking forward to the next 6 months. the garden is already showing the start of the growth of the bulbs – back to the garden – I know.  it’s exciting to see what will come through.  I have planted alliums. Freesias. Every time I return something new is in flower. In fruit. We have Seville to look forwards to. A trip to Malaga –  suppers with friends. Another season. 

No doubt I’ll let you know. 

      Here comes the rain 

Well I’m back. Not as Gary sang Back for good. But for two weeks. To be honest I’m approaching the last few days of this visit. And the rain that was forecast has arrived. With a vengeance. We drove into town last night in fog. Friends gripping the door handles as we drove along the bits of road where there is a sheer drop. A lovely supper  and it was clear by the time  we left but with thunder crashing in the distance and lightening cracking away. . We just managed to get the cushions off the garden furniture before the heavens opened and the storm hit the mountains. Boy. Did it rain. It persisted. All night. And was pretty torrential. Am I complaing? No. I have planted bulbs seeds and some plants this week!

 I have also made a huge school boy error. I dont like gardening in gloves. Somehow i have rubbed my eye after planting and its swollen. I kook like I’ve done 5 rounds in a boxing ring which is stupid. I wouldn’t even get in the arena. A quick trip to the pharmacy. A bit of Spanglais as neither she or I spoke the others language and I had antiseptic eye drops. Lesson learnt? I doubt it. 

Eye eye Captain

In between visitors I have been cutting back,  pruning, tidying. Unlike Somerset there is no real weeding to do. No ground elder. No Bindweed. But an enourmous amount of leaves from the fruit treees and fallen olives. The olive trees are heavy with olives. ( obviously) and I fear they will all go to waste.

I have taken the opportunity of tidying the bank. Climbing up and like a mountain goat. Well thats how our neighbour described my efforts. A bit of lopping here. A hedge cut. The access road to the house was once a dirt track, now thankfully concrete and easier to navigate. The bank on our side has some large trees.some scabby prickly pears and cactus bordered by a hedge and the smattering of oleander along the drive. I have scattered poppies on the bank. Let’s see what comes. I have struggled to get native Mediterranean wildflower seeds. But I’ll continue trying. 

The access road to the house.

I have cut back the oleander from the gate to expose the two pillars that are there -if they are there why not show them! I have also been tidying the opposite bank behind the house and to the front. There are a couple of pines  which are protected in Spain. Not that I’d want to.

 I have cleared a lot of the pine needles so that any wildflowers that may be lurking in the ground have a chance to appear. But I now understand that the pine needles are a good mulch! A bit late as I have collected barrow loads of them. But I still have a barrow full. 

I love seeing the garden at different times off the day as the light is so very different. Except the dark. It always looks the same. Dark. This was taken from the area where we park the car. Pines. Cactus. It’s a favourite of mine. 

The bank at the rear of the house.
A barrow full of needles

I’m yet to attack the roundabout  – that piece of land we have across the road other than to cut the tips of the end of the agave leaves that were threatening to stab anyone that walked past. Not that many people do but like a Boy Scout you have to be prepared,
There are some pretty big  agaves at the bottom and a number of baby ones growing. I need to dig the small ones and to replant. Something else to add to my list. At least this list is my doing and not the ones that Ian gives me. To be fair. I should say lists. There are three. Some are being reduced. Bit the attic is still to be tackled. 

The large agaves on the roundabout

I have at long last – 5 months in – managed to cut the hedge, its been so hot that the growth has so far been slow but I was warned not to cut it in the heat. Or it may die. To be honest so would I if I’d tried in the heat of the summer. I needed little excuse not to cut it. We have a hedge cutter but the route from plug to hedge is a long one. Around the edge of the pool. Which I could see as a recipe for disaster for me. So I tried to get a cordless one. Hmm try getting a cordless anything here along with a string of garden solar lights.  Total fail. So I ventured on, and managed with a bit of stretching and cursing to have cut it. Please don’t venture to the side on the bank. It’s not pretty.  I have also trimmed a bit of height off the trees in front of the hedge. Thank goodness for the big lopper.  The view to the coast is a bit clearer. Especially when I Put on my glasses. 

A hedge with a view

The town had 24hrs of rain the week before I arrived and it shows. The drive up looked a bit greener. Flowers were back out in the garden. A bit of colour. This Brazilian sky flower has been constant all sunmner. Throw in a background of yellow and bingo. Colour. 

Brazilian sky flower

We have a bourganvellia growing next to the garage. It hasnt done very much in terms of flowering despite my govong it a good talk to and some encouragement. But there is one on the bank. The dry bank. No water. No attention. Dry. Sunny. And blooming lovely. Framed by the fig and the Nespera. 


Talking of which the two trees that we have on the bank are flowering. They also have a nice scent. I was pretty surprised  to see the flowers as i thought it a bit early. But apparently not. I’m hoping for some healthy fruit next year. Which no doubt will all come at the same time. Like the figs. 

Nespera.

I thought that we had little or no fruit on the pineapple guava. But once again I’m proved wrong. Apparently they are ripen when they drop. So I have been collecting some every day. I like the taste. One of my visitors said they tasted like wait for it. Germolene. I hated the smell of that growing up. Along with TCP. I once worked with someone who I swear used TCP as an after shave. 

Pineapple guava
The rest of the fruit is doing well. The oranges are ripening. Again I thought we may lose the trees in this years extreme heat. But there will be some ready for Xmas. There are two pink grapefruit. Still there. Still getting fatter.  


An unknown fruit – maybe a sloe.  


The 5 quinces remain and are getting uglier by the day. If I have time I will make that quince jelly I’ve been meaning to make. For ages. I think I’m being told to do it. One big fat quince has dropped to the ground. 


The succulents are doing well. There are small ones appearing everywhere. I need to move some of them as they are in the wrong places. 

I have moved the two cactus. I know that they are Euphorbium  but Ian bought them as he wanted cactus. And they do look greatagainst the  White wall of the house.  . 


You can tell we have had rain. These have suddenly unfurled from the tight coisednuo balls they were on our last trip. Looking glorious and majestic in the border. Not likethe  aliens they looked like before.  

I’m seeing new cactus I haven’t noticed before. 

A view of the border at the back of the house. It’s pretty steep. 


All of a sudden there are plants appearing in the garden. That’s the joy of a new garden. You never know until you get to the end of the first year what you will find. 


I’m very excited with the bird of paradise plants. We had some flowers in the summer but they seem to have gone mad. 

There are a number scattered around the garden. One in a pot. Most have their Autumn flower spikes. The one at the side of the house strategically placed outside the bathroom window has theee  large flower spikes forming. The one in the pot  has three as well. And the ones in the flower bed have another three between them. To be honest. I wasn’t expecting that. But they are fab. 


The good old lantana continues in the rear bed to give some welcome colour. The one in a pot had suffered a bit but has been cut right back and is sprouting new growth already. I have a policy of hack back and wish for the best. If it works. Bingo if not then there’s a shopping opportunity. Talking of which. 

I called into the garden centre last week on my way into Malaga. . And ordered a load of plants for collecting later in the week. Which I did. And filled the car. Can’t you tell Ian wasn’t here. He would have said ‘do you need all of those plants’.  Yes. I do. And more. 

Have plants will travel
  Some new lavender. Verbascum. Plectranthus. A plant whose leaves and flowers smell like popcorn. It really does. Senna didymobotrya. Oh and like so many of the Mediterranean plants is poisonous. Probably that’s what I rubbed into my eye! 

I have cut back some of the lavender not being brave enough to do it all. I have replanted some slightly lower on one side of the bed so the lights to the gates shine a bit brighter for now. Yes I know. I should have taken the hose away to get the perfect picture. But it’s not perfect. The garden the blog the pictures are all a work in progress!! 


There is still plenty to do. But it hasn’t all been gardening. We have had friends staying. Which means trips out. To the  Alhambra. To the coast. To eat. 

We made our third visit to the Alhambra 

The gardens are going over but there is still some great colour. 

Flowers at the Alhambra
A day at the Alhambra
Granada from the Alhambra
Oh. It’s November. The mornings are chilly admittedly. But when the suns out it’s glorious. So you need a trip to the coast. And we made a few. Nerja. Torre de Mar. For lunch. For a walk. 

Trips to the Coast – Nerja & Torre Del Mar

So Ian and the visitors leave today. I have one full day left on my own in the garden. To move the prunings from the pomegranate. The lavender. To plant the rest of the alliums. To go collect the tulips I have ordered for the pots.  Ready to be planted on the next visit. To hide  them in the fridge from Ian to give them a cold snap before I plant. 

It’s getting colder. We had our first log fire in the new house on Saturday I’m sure there will be more when I’m back. In 12 days time!

Have friends will travel 

I blame my parents. I always do. They have a lot to answer for. I’ve mentioned how my parents got me interested in gardening in an earlier blog. They also got me going out for a run. Not a run as in run. But a Sunday afternoon ‘ run ‘ in the car. To the coast. Barry island – long before Gavin and Stacey made it popular. Porthcawl. . Llantwit Major. Ogmore. Macross Beach  – Penarth. To  Cefn Onn to see glorious Azaleas and  Rhododendron – to Dyffryn Gardens a National Trust property and garden. To see Concorde land at Rhoose airport now Cardiff Airport.  It did land there a few times in the 70s but because the runway was short couldn’t take off with passengers!!!   So we went places on a Sunday  – Anywhere really – a Sunday afternoon run. 

So when we have friends staying at the weekend what do we do? Go for a run. It’s in the blood. To the coast. To a garden. A bit more adventurous than my parents. But it has stuck.last  week we had a friend staying. Not at the weekend but mid week.  – so  It was a midweek run.  Better really as it was quieter. We are lucky living where we do as  there is plenty of choice. Plenty of local National Trust properties. Gardens. Coastline. So what to do. Well.Day one had to be the coast. 

First of all Food. Breakfast. An hours ‘run’ would take us to Hive Beach Cafe my favourite coastal cafe. Phew. Boy was it a windy one. The weather. Not the breakfast.  Food was awesome as usual. Good full English breakfast  followed with a walk on the beach. Well more of a stand up while catching your breath  whilst the wind tried to blow you into next week. Waves crashing. Wind whistling – so unlike our visit a month earlier where we could sit outside. The crumbling Jurassic coastline cliffs are spectacular. A great place for old fossils. Like us.  A great place for kids – why because there nothing there!! Except the Cafe and ice cream. Though  nestled just above is the smart new Seaside boarding House. 

A brighter day
Waves crashing
Hive Beach Burton Bradstock

I decided we’d drive around the Coast as we couldn’t walk along the beach. The tide was in an we were in danger of being  blown away. Plus I’d combed my hair. 

Being fans of Boadchurch West Bay was next. If you thought Burton Bradstock was windy we nearly lost the car door. we certainly were not  wearing harmony either –  Hair all over the place. West bay has changed a fair bit over the years. New flats. Caravan park. It’s not my favourite place. The cliffs and beach are spectacular but it doesn’t have the charm of some of the others. 

Walking on the Beach the wind was taking the small  pebbles off the ground and hitting you as you walked along! Bracing. You bet. I say  walking but it was more of – well a bit like when I bought MBT trainers. When I wore them I didn’t look like I was walking more like I was rolling   from side to side. Like I was chewing toffees. They are still in the cupboard somewhere. 

 There was no sign of anyone from Broadchurch – not much sign of life at all really. The harbour was almost empty.  The town very quiet. In fact perfect! Except for the wind. I recall that Harbour Lights was filmed here too. 

Next was a short skip and a jump to Lyme Regis through torrential rain. I love Lyme. The coloured beach huts all standing to attention on the beach edge. I love the Cobb sweeping out into the harbour. The little sandy beach area in summer so packed you can’t move. People getting changed into and from swimsuits with towels strategically wrapped. A struggle to get the budgie smugglers off. Hopping on one leg then the other. Scared the towel would drop and the seagulls would come swooping. 

It reminds me of days on the beach with the family in Wales. Bucket. Spade. Sun.  Memories of getting lost on Barry island beach and ending up in the lost children’s area. My dad said he did it on purpose. You know what. I believe him. And no. I wasn’t 14. 

The sun came out long enough for a walk along the cobb. Re enacting the scene from the French Lieutenants woman.   Well. I wasn’t brave enough to walk on the top bit. It was just like the scene in the film. Wind lashing the waves across the top.  I don’t walk there even when it’s still. I’m always scared I will slip off!  Decades ago we went mackrell fishing  out of Lyme. We caught some. Friends gutted and cooked them. I didn’t eat. I think I was still feeling queasy after Ian nearly lost his finger to fishing wire on the trip. Funny. We haven’t been fishing since. 

Colours of the beach huts
Hints of childhood – buckets and spades
You wouldn’t push me? Would you?
End of the Cobb

There was only one further place to go. My favourite place. Beer. Not as in Beer. But Beer. A place we’ve spent many bracing New Year’s Day walks with friends. And god kids. Lunching at the Anchor pub at the top of the hill. Buying glass in the fabulous little galleries. Small. Perfectly formed. Fish. Boats. Wind. A great place to buy fresh fish. Which we didn’t. 

Lobster Pots

Time to drive home ready for A cuppa tea and more food – a fab  supper at Matts Kitchen to end a great day. Tomorrow’s another day. A walk around Stourhead. 

But I will be back. There’s a silver surfer deal at Hive Beach Cafe for the over 55’s. there are some benefits to getting older after all!