Travel blog – Gardens. Travel. Life.

Posted on November 16, 2022November 18, 2022 by happyretiredblog · 4 Comments

Travels around Spain ~ Bilbao

We have been planning our trips away , together with various events for the next 6 months. Well you have more time in retirement and after nearly 7 years I might just have it down to a fine art. Although these days there are more doctor, dental and hospital visits to work around.

But Ian has hatched a plan. Instead of travelling direct to Malaga as we normally do we will travel via somewhere else in Spain. He has planned a number of places all meticulously researched and each with a reason to visit. There is so much to see and do in Spain and it gives us a taster for places where we may want to spend a little longer. But. Not longer than 90 days obviously. Don’t get me started on that. Just as I retired freedom of movement gets restricted. For everyone. But as my father said don’t get bogged down in discussion of sex, politics and religion. It’s a bottomless pit.

Sex, politics and religion together you’ll never get back. Not even if you shout ~ I’m a celibate get me out of here.

November is the first new style trip and guess what. There are a few photos and a bit of a blog. Ian likes to get to the airport a week before the flight so early starts are nothing new. Everything looks quiet when you are getting the 5,30am train from Peckham Rye to Gatwick. I’d normally feel like everyone’s grandfather travelling at peak travel time.

The men all have trousers that just don’t quite touch their shoes _ ankle flappers ~ beards., Beanies and headphones. I can’t quite bring myself to wear trousers that short. My mother would say ‘ what’s wrong with those trousers. Best you put some jam on your shoes and invite them down for tea’. Normally the station is a great people watching place. Not today. I’d have to either look at Ian or in the mirror and I didn’t want to start a row with either. Not this early on.

The airport was quiet too. Through security. With the usual body scan. I’m convinced they just don’t believe the body concealed under these baggy clothes is mine. That I’m hiding the cash bags from the great train robbery under my jumper. Less six pack washboard stomach. More washing machine and tumble dryer thrown in for good measure. But stopped I am as usual. Nothing to declare.

Oh. I haven’t mentioned. Bilbao if your interested. If not then best stop now because there will be pictures. A bit of a ramble. A mumble and the obligatory spelling mistake. Why Bilbao? Because Ian wants to and we can fly direct. Plus the added bounds of great food. Fabulous Guggenheim and plenty of walking. No hire cars but great public transport. Two tips. Comfortable shoes. Buy a Barik card for travel.

My first thoughts as we fly over the Baltic Sea into Bilbao? It’s green. Compared to flying into Malaga. It’s lush. I suspect because the rain is torrential. The flight into landing was wobbly. Just as well I woke up 30 mins before landing. I had only slept for most of the flight. Tip. Be prepared. Rain. Wind. Glorious sun. All within an hour.

The bus into the city was. Fast. Very fast. And all for €3. ( you can’t get a Barik until you are at a metro); And a spectacular view of the Guggenheim as the bus hurtled over the bridge Opened in 1997 ( the museum. Not the bridge) it is a stunning piece of work by the Canadian ~ American architect Frank Gehry. I didn’t realise that the building is featured in a James Bond film ~ The world is not enough. But to be fair it’s not a Bond film I remember. Or the theme tune. I’ve also read that Mariah Cary used various locations at the museum for her video Sweetheart. I’ve just had a look. Maybe I’ll just have to copy some of the poses in the video. And mime. I didn’t.

This is a view taken from the summit of Mount Artxanda. Reached by cable car which took longer to find the entrance that getting to Bilbao. I exaggerate. But once you know where it is it’s easy. But it’s worth it. Tip. Don’t walk up!

Back to The Guggenheim. Our first afternoon was spent getting our bearings. That and sheltering from hideous rain which came in from nowhere. We had walked down to the museum and as we arrived the heavens opened. Cats and dogs. But not before I got a photo of the outside and of the giant spider first seen in the turbine hall at Tate Modern. I remember it from back then but I think it’s positioning here is more spectacular. And just a little bit creepy. I don’t know if they were blowing dry ice or whether it was mist coming in. But it looked great. Well the couple ( not us) taking a wet selfie were enjoying themselves. Going back two,days later I can confirm it’s dry Ice. Also best to get a picture in the rain. It’s quieter.

We dragged ourselves back to our Airbnb to dry out ~ be very Spanish and have a siesta and then headed back out for yet another walk. The light of the day had gone and the Museum took on another appearance. I think it’s my favourite one and the photo was taken from the other side of the river. From this angle the building to me looks like a large ocean liner. Very beautiful. Elegant and majestic. And shiny.

I love the riverside walks when the lights are on and there are shadows. The walk there and back was great. And dry. The bridge we had crossed earlier in the day looked spectacular earlier but somehow the lights make it look beautiful. Maybe I’ll adorn myself with lights.

The day looks very different. But there again I suspect I look better in the dark. That’s not a request for people to agree.

The bridge I mentioned coming in from the airport runs along the side of the Guggenheim and again at night the lights make it look pretty spectacular. I hope they have energy saving lights!

The whole walk there and back at night was spectacular. Obviously the locals love the walk as well as every other person was out walking their dogs. Or maybe because the afternoon weather was so hideous.

We had been recommended to eat at the Plaza Nueva which is a short hop skip and a jump from the Airbnb. A beautiful plaza with some fabulous places to eat around it. The small bars and small places to eat are filled with locals. And a few tourists getting quizzical over the choice of pintxos. Not a commercial chain of coffee shops and pizzas to be seen. Thankfully.

I love how these city’s have the fabulous plaza. Madrid. Salamanca are two I like a lot. The Plaza; Neoclassical in style was built in 1821.

Is this what they mean by green energy! Bilbao tram runs over the greenest grass I’ve seen and it’s real. I went back and checked. The trams run around the side Guggenheim through trees and over grass and it’s a pretty cool sight. Although without my glasses on and no sign of a tram I would have walked across the grass not knowing that there were tracks.

We took the metro to get to the funicular railway and this is the carriage. Modern. Clean. Bright and looking great. This line was quiet Norman Foster was commissioned in 1997 to design stations for a new extension and they are awesome. The entrances ~ glass tunnels take you down to the stations. The curved structures are known locally as Fosteritos. The stations are airy. Light and spacious. They are a joy to,use. And whilst I know many people don’t think wearing a face mask makes the slightest bit of difference, in Spain you are obliged to wear a mask whilst on public transport. And people travelling on public transport here are all compliant. Me. I find it comforting.

I am surprised at how many Unesco World Heritage sites there are and how varied they are too. Spain has 49 sites and one is here in the Basque country ~ The Vizcaya bridge. It’s a transporter bridge and the worlds oldest, having been built in 1893. It transports both vehicles and foot passengers across the river. Bilbao was a major exporter of iron and the structure was the first of its kind to use a combination of iron and new steel,cables. The carriage is called a gondola ~ no idea why. ~ no serenading from me in a stripey top and a funny hat _ and carries six cars and a load of pedestrians. There is also a lift to the upper platform where you can walk across. Sadly [not] today was too windy. I think I would have had issues. Major issues.

I don’t remember this one being opened but I do remember the opening of the Severn bridge. The first one. I was still in short trousers and it was a major event. The bridge. Not the trousers. Growing up I remember having to get the ferry across or drive the long way round to get to Bristol or down to the coast. In high season the queues were bonkers. Although years later the naive new driver that was me would panic at breaking down on the bridge. There were signs that said if you broke down there would be charges of £25 min. I thought that it was a charge per minute. Not the minimum charge. I held my breath every time I crossed the bridge. But I did wear my commemorative badge for the opening. I’m not sure if it came from TWW. ~ Television Wales and West where a neighbour worked. Probably along with my Tufty club badge.

It was pretty windy down by the unesco heritage site but we managed a bit of a wander but to be honest after yesterdays marathon all I wanted was to get back toto base and have a cuppa tea & cake. Marathon? 25,000 steps.

There were some interesting buildings. The Town Hall. An old multi coloured train station. All shut up but we didn’t venture up into the side streets.

They like painted houses here. Talk of multi coloured swap shop and it’s not all Farrow and Ball or Little Greene either. Other options are availabl. Well I don’t recognise the colours if they are. I could probably repaint them all,with the sample pots we have in our cellar.

There was the odd bit of black and white along the river which is a stark but welcome contrast to the colourful houses.

Thursday was supposed to be a wet day but it wasn’t we had planned to go to the Guggenheim so we did. It amazes me just how cheap the entry to the museums and places of interest are in Spain. But Ian said it was a bit much for me to have time enter an upstairs window if I got the reduced price for a senior. What bugged me more is that they didn’t seemed surprised,

The structure is fabulous and the inside spaces amazing. Lots of steel; glass and shiny surfaces. But it’s incredibly light and airy and never feels too busy. Like a lot of museums I don’t get all of the art or sculptures but I’m sure I am not alone in that.

I liked these ~ an exhibition called masking identities. An interesting collection. Big. Bright and interesting. Not so the next painting which I just don’t get. No doubt someone will. But it’s not me.

Yep. That’s it. I stood and looked for a while. And looked. And looked. But still I don’t get it. I’m sure one of my artist friends will enlighten me. But I still won’t get it.

Have I said I like tulips? This was a great creation ~ a bouquet of multicolour balloon flowers. 2 metres tall and 5 metres across. These were part of the Jeff Koons celebration series from 1994. I loved them. I think I will put a blog with just photos o many to put here.

I suspect you’ve had enough by now. I have so the rest will be in part 2. Till then it’s an exit from the Guggenheim and a snack.

Posted on October 1, 2022October 6, 2022 by happyretiredblog · 2 Comments

A holiday within a holiday ~ Cordoba

Let me get something off my chest for starters. Spanish underground car parks. They give me the creeps. Not because they are scary. But because they scare me. What is it will pillars. These car parks weren’t built for todays modern cars. The spaces are too narrow. The pillars. Well they are everywhere. And the turning circles and ramps down. just don’t go there. That’s my whinge. I’ll go round and round looking for a nice space to drive in and out of ~ but not in the car park in Cordoba and I was t even driving in!

Friends were staying in Seville and we arranged to meet up when they visited Cordoba. Never ones to say no to a trip away we arranged to drive to cordoba and stay over for two nights and to meet up for supper. We are so well positioned in Competa. Granada is about 1:5 miles drive. Seville is about 3. Malaga 1 and Cordoba is 2hrs 20. We have done it as a day trip by car. I’ve done it by train from Malaga as a day trip. This time we decided to stay for two nights.

We managed to stay right next to the Mosque Cathedral ~ really central and easy to find. The hotel not the cathedral. That’s well signposted.

The Roman Bridge has been around since 1st. Century and the existing bridge is largely from 8thc. A lot of locations for Game of Thrones weee filmed in Spain and the majestic roman bridge was featured in series 5. Ian told me. He was a fan. I just watched bits when we happened to be in the same room. In the same house in the same country. But I also understand they also used CGI to make it look bigger. I think it looks pretty amazing as it is.

Córdoba Uber. No we didn’t try ~ but there are lots of them.

I have been to Cordoba three times before. This is visit number four to the Mosque cathedral. Almost as many times as I’ve visited The Alhambra in Granada. Both are stunning. But the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba) blows my mind. I think it’s the subtlety of the Mosque; it’s beautiful simplicity with the stunning architecture of its columns Against the bling bling of the cathedral. To have the two in one building is stunning. Spain has 49 UNESCO world Heritage sites and the Mosque Cathedral is one of them.

We visited at night ~ Saturday night its free entrance so why not. It’s a very different experience at night. The lighting is different as is the atmosphere. Oh. And did I say it was free.

I’d have loved to have heard the organ played. In the cathedral and Mosque I’m sure the acoustics would be amazing. Sat under a stunning ceiling. Stunning plasterwork.

The altar was typically grand as you would expect in a Catholic Church. As a vicar friend of mine one replied when I asked which service I should attend at the church where he was officiating ‘ come to the later one. It’s all bells and smells’. That sums me up. Our local vicar once said I was a a festival worshipper . He didn’t mean Glastonbury ~ he meant Christmas and Harvest festival.

The choir seats were a bit spooky. Each arm rest had a figure carved into it. Beautifully carved. All individual. But scary. The seats are carved mainly out of mahogany wood with a row of 30 upper seats and a row of 23 lower seats, all with these carvings.

At the end of the day the brass still needs polishing. I remember my mother getting the brasso out to polish the brass candlesticks and the knocker on the front door. I can smell it still. I remember it made your fingers black.

I would have thought I’d be used to the narrow Spanish streets after five years. But it never ceases to amaze me how narrow they are and how the cars and vans manoeuvre their way through. People have to stand in door ways like sentries. It’s my nightmare having to manoeuvre my way through these streets. Once in Sentil de las Bodegas I threatened to just get out of the car and get the hire company come and collect it. Just where I’d stopped preferably. I was breathing in as we drove through.

The main reason for the trip to Cordoba ~ although Ian and I never need an excuse for a road trip ~ was to meet up with friends who were travelling in Spain. Five us had worked together over the years and had been friends for over 35 years. Ian and Sarah trained together and are birthday twins. Sane day. Same month same year. Four of us were business partners. Four of us are partners. Confused. Don’t be. We know what’s going on and that’s all that counts. The hotel had recommended a restaurant for supper on the Sunday evening. I’m often dubious about hotel recommendations but this was spot on. Great food. Great atmosphere and great conversation. Don’t ask about the plates. It would take an age to explain.

Who doesn’t go on a bus tour when travelling in a new city. Ok. Not that new to us but it’s always worth the trip around the city. It helps get your bearings. If we hadn’t been on the bus we wouldn’t have seen this place and hopped off. The Palacio Viana. Is a fabulous Renaissances palace with 12 beautifil and very different patio gardens.

It was was the private residence of the 3rd Marquise of Viana until his death in 1980 and was bought by a Cordoba bank on his death. He died with no heirs.

I love a view through a door in the garden ~ this one draws you in from one patio garden to the next. I love the idea of having the gardens like a series of rooms.

How do they get the plumbago to grow this large. Mine at La Casa is pretty poor. If it’s still alive. I need to check when I’m next there but I’d love for it to cover the garage wall like this.

I can’t imagine this going through the streets of Cordoba but it did. How they manoeuvred around the corners on these small often bumpy streets. I’d be happier being carried around in the smaller one.

There was a lot of wandering. A bit of a bizarre evening where we had booked supper at a restaurant which looked good. We arrived and were shown to a table. A table where you needed a lift to get on the chairs and once you’d managed it you immediately started slipping off. We asked to move. We were considering moving restaurants ~ loud music was coming from the roof top terrace. By loud I mean booming. We were the oldest swingers in town.

We were seated in an alcove. Great table. Tucked away in a corner. The best table for people watching. A huge mirror just in view where the young and trendy had camera phones in hand probably for Instagram or tick toc and were taking their selfies as they passed. Unaware we were watching. I never realised the effort you should put into a pose for these photos. Mine are selfie snaps and not that often. Flicks of the hair. One foot forward. Stand kinda sideways. I might try it. Except my pout would be a gurn and my arthritic hip would give out and I’d ultimately fall over. But the service was excellent. The food really good and the complimentary G& T at the end more than generous in size. The entertainment perfect.

We didn’t do the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos this time. We tried on the Saturday night. Another free entry but the queue for the queue was huge and despite the British love of queuing , 10pm on a Saturday night was not for me. Oh. And it’s closed on a Monday. We have been before and I’m not sure what the gardens would have been like. It’s been a long hot dry summer in Spain. As they used to say on Blue Peter ( ask your parents if you are young) here’s one I made earlier. On a previous visit. And not with sticky backed plastic and a squeezey bottle.

We have another Spanish adventure lined up. Next stop Bilbao. One thing is guaranteed. There will be pictures. Maybe a blog. But definitely pictures.

Posted on September 22, 2021October 5, 2021 by happyretiredblog

A holiday within a holiday.

I love it. We have finally managed to get to Spain after 12 months away. To garden. To deal with house issues. But. . Ian has said. “ We aren’t working in the garden for three whole weeks. We are going away.”Before I knew it he had planned a three night adventure where we would have our breakfasts made. Suppers cooked. Ian is the holiday person in our household. He researches and organises. But we had to do some work before we were able to go.

The trip. A 1hr 45 min drive toward and beyond Granada. To Moclín. No. I had never heard of it until recently but to be honest I had never heard of Competa before March 2017. Now I bore the pants off everyone in my posts of Competa. My photos. Just generally wittering on. But Moclín it was. Booked. Suppers arranged. Bags packed.

So. Moclín. What about Moclín. Well. its 1,065 metres above sea level on the route of the Caliphs and has an impressive 14 th century Moorish Castle looking into the valley. There are breathtaking views towards the Sierra Nevada as well as toward Granada, and the Alhambra. Imagine. Me visiting the Granada Province and not going to the Alhambra. That’s a first. Actually. No a second.

Driving into Moclín you are struck straight away with the volume of olive trees. As you drive up along the main roads there are olive trees as far as the eye can see. So Ian told me as my eyes were on the road most of the time. But he was right. How many olives can people eat. There were literally millions of trees. All in straight rows. All looking beautiful. I’m having words with the one tree in our garden. Though it is full of olives this years. You can’t miss Moclin Castle though. . Talk about high on a hill. And yes. There was a lonely goat herd. Ibex actually.

The castle dates from the 12 th century when the Nasrid Kings built their stronghold. The Moors managed to stave off the Christians when the Catholic Kings, Ferdinand and Isabella ordered an assault on the village in 1485. Enough history. If you want more you can always google it. I don’t want to bore the pants off you. Again. There is more to come before you fall asleep.

Ian had booked Casa Higueras Moclin for three nights. It’s a beautifully restored house high on the hill with amazing views to Granada and the Sierra Nevada. Owned by Ian and Andrew ~ which may confuse some. But we are Andrew & Ian. They are Ian & Andrew and they have the skills and patience at making you feel welcome. I’m too miserable to run a B&B. I had followed them on Instagram. I had listened to Ian’s podcasts where he interviews people who have settled in Spain. Looked at their website. Followed their adventures. Have a look at their blog www.twosouthofgranada.com which details their adventures > a great read. I too had done some research.

We arrived to a great welcome. It’s even better than the pictures. Amazing views from the terrace . Tea and cake on arrival and a natter taking in the amazing views. Talking Spain. Previous lives in London. Future lives in Spain. More Spain.

They also run some fabulous courses from Moclin. Art. Flamenco. Cookery. Children’s book writing. The week after we left they had guests arriving for an art course. Check out their courses www.granadaconcierge.com

As well as great hosts the cooking is amazing. We decided that for two of the three nights we would eat in. Give them 48hrs s notice and they whizz up restaurant quality food. One night we had a lovely starter of roasted tomato tart, teriyaki salmon with a delicious salad. Why delicious? Isn’t a salad a salad. It’s all in the dressing. Dessert a chocolate olive oil cake with homemade plum lemon and ginger ice cream. The second supper was an amazing pork dish with a sherry reduction and sliced mango cheek in lime and ginger syrup. I know it’s called a cheek as I sourced the recipe as I forgot to ask Ian. I’m hoping that one of their projects is a book of their recipes.

I would have normally taken photos. Surprisingly we were too busy eating and talking. To each other. Breakfasts were great too ~ Homemade granola. Homemade jams & marmalade. Homemade fruit compote. Get the drift. Homemade. And delicious.

Did I mention the entertainment. No? Meet Alfie the resident entertainer. Now I’m more cat than dog but you couldn’t help but love Alfie. He entertained from the time we arrived. And if you ever need an almond cracker Alfie’s your dog. Found in the campo at 7 weeks old and initially fostered by Ian and Andrew it’s easy to see why he hasn’t left.

Ian & Andrew ( it feels weird saying that) ~ have a wealth of suggestions for trips from Moclin. But before we ventured too far there was Moclin to see. There are great walks around the area. Yes. You can guess we walked a short way up to the castle each day no further. But it’s a great base for longer walks.

One of the recommendations was to stop off at a Roman Villa on our way to Priego de Córdoba. That’s the joy of staying somewhere where the hosts are full of recommendations. We had asked for some places to stop at on our drive, over dinner and at breakfast there was a note of where to go ( politely of course) and leaflets and directions.

First stop was somewhere that wouldn’t have been on our radar. Almedinilla to see a 7thc Roman Villa. The Villa Romana El Ruedo. The site dates from the 1st to the 7th century A.D. and is one of the largest on the Iberian peninsular. It is notable for its enormous structures,mosaics, paintings and paving. It’s remarkable to find the place ~ you can easily drive past and not know it is there. We did as we turned off the main road and drove straight past. A really unassuming entrance and ticket sales with a really helpful person to go and open the gates for us. We were the only ones there at the time and had the place to ourselves. Shame we had left our Roman togas behind. Imagine the photos. No. Don’t. Ian would not be amused.

As well,as an original Roma ruin there is also a faux amphitheatre on the edge of the pueblo. very faux indeed.

Onward we go. I’ve probably said it before but the roads in Spain are excellent. Often just double lanes. Usually quiet where tourists like me pull over to let the locals go past as they know the road. unlike me they don’t stop breathing as they drive into the hillside towns and breathe in further as you drive through the narrow streets. Going into Priego de Córdoba was a bit like that. I’m not going to mention leaving. There was a diversion at which I chickened out and went the other way. Thankfully it was a short cut. But Ian wasn’t allowed to,speak until we were in the main road. It was a better route out of town actually and one I will remember for next time.

Priego de Córdoba was an Ian research find. It’s a very lovely place with an extremely helpful tourist office. Plied with information leaflets we headed for a walk around. It’s a place we will go back to for a long weekend.

We had walked and walked over the previous two days and decided to go into Granada for our last full day away byes. I know we have been to Granada a few times. In the first 12 months of buying Casa Verano we or I had been to Granada so many times. But not into Granada itself but skirted the outskirts on the drive up to the Alhambra Palace. Every visitor we had wanted to go to The Alhambra. I could have had a job as a tour guide I went so many times. But to be honest I love the place. Our next visit will be a night one.

This visit we were going into Granada just to go into Granada. Oh and Ian & Andrew had recommendations for Tapas for lunch. But first we had to get into Granada. I knew the approach to our favourite car park. Yes. I have favourite and least favourite car parks. I once nearly cried when I lost the car in the car park of EL Corte Ingles in Malaga. I didn’t realise there were two buildings on different streets and the car park spanned both. I learnt my lesson that day to make a note of where I exited the car park. Oh and the car park in Torre del Mar. Must have the darkest parking spaces in Andalucia. In Granada my favourite is next to the Monastery. We found it.

We had walked past the citadel San Juan de Dios twice before but had never ventured in. That was a mistake and I was glad I had my sunglasses with me. All that glitters and all that. Glitters wasn’t the right word. Bling bling bling. From the Lonely Planet guide “Built between 1737 and 1759, this spectacular basilica unveils a blinding display of opulent baroque decor. Barely an inch of its interior lacks embellishment, most of it in gleaming gold and silver. Frescos by Diego Sánchez Sarabia and Italian artists Corrado Giaquinto and Tomás Ferrer adorn the ceilings and side chapels, while up above the basilica’s dome soars to 50m. The highlight, however, is the extraordinary gold altarpiece in the Capilla Mayor (main chapel).

Have you been dazzled by the light? I was. An amazing example of opulent baroque. An excellent audio guide and at times the whole basilica to ourselves. What better to do after all that bling. A garden. Another treat close to my favourite car park. The Jardin Botanico de la Universidad de Granada ~ a small botanical garden attached to the university of Granada.

A small but lovely gardens with most plants labelled which is a joy to see. I’m not good at plant names but it’s a help to be able to identify them. Easily.

Lunch at Paccuri a great tapas bar and a general wander and a people watch through the streets of Granada and back up,to Moclin for one last night. That’s one last night for now.

Back to Competa for more gardening. Cleaning. Eating. And Spanglish for me. Spanish for Ian.

Posted on March 21, 2020March 1, 2025 by happyretiredblog · 3 Comments

Hola Mexico = Mexico City

When Ian suggested a trip to Mexico I have to admit that I wasn’t convinced. Yes. I like a holiday or two but this was different. It was Mexico and the plan was that we would be away for nearly three weeks. He was also planning we visit three places in that time. Stay in Air BNB or similar and for one journey travel north from Mexico City on a bus. For 5.5 hrs. Friends didn’t believe the bus bit.

People kept saying to me before we went. Be careful. Ian kept saying be careful with your camera. Not conducive to calming my anxieties.

What I didn’t expect that this was probably to be our last trip for quite sometime.

But ……..

Hola Mexico City.

We arrived early evening to a glorious welcome from the sky as we approached the airport. Early thoughts on what I saw. It’s a bloody massive city. By massive I mean massive. Getting through immigration was easy. Finding a cab to take us the first accommodation was easy. But I don’t think I have ever seen so many cars in my life. The road out of the airport was a car park. But the cabbie was friendly. Chatty. Thankfully Ian and his Spanish was a huge help for the whole trip. I added a bit here and there but it was Ian who did most of the talking. That in itself is a huge role change. Me. I usually talk and talk. Mostly about nothing at all.

I hadn’t looked at the accommodation that had been booked in ages. The trip was planned late last year and I had little idea where we were staying. I’m not sure if that was intentional because I was unsure. But apartment number 1 was great. I say apartment but it was a cross between an apartment and an art gallery. Up on the 14th floor of a building with 24 hour concierge service we were met by the owner and the property manager and shown around. A small but beautiful apartment. Small balcony with views over the city.

We were then shown the art room which was unexpected. The room furnished with art and sculptures by local artists. It took my breath away. For a lot of reasons. .

I didn’t know what to expect from Mexico City. Ian had done the homework. Had a list of places to visit. Museums. Art galleries. Parks. Even pyramids. Who knew that Mexico had pyramids. I didn’t.

One of the places on our list was Casa Azul. The house where artist Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived. I didn’t know much about either of them before we left but a number of friends had mentioned them and said that it was a must see.

I think I could see why it was called Casa Azul when we approached it. It certainly was blue. Very blue. It became even clearer when we entered that Ian had received the email. You know. The one saying today’s the day your shirt should match the paint colour.

He definitely merged into the background. He made me take the photo quickly as he kept saying. Quick. People are looking at me.

The house was beautiful ~ you know one of those houses you say without hesitation. I could live here. I didnt know that at that one point Leon Trotsky had stayed there before he bought his own house just around the corner. A house visit and a history lesson all in one.

It certainly was a colourful house. A stunning studio and a lovely peaceful shaded garden.

The studio was a beautiful light space and you could imagine the artists painting here.

I loved the brugamasia against the blue wall with the colours of the strelitzia in the garden. Both striking and looking that they had been planted for the special effect.

Leon Trotsky’s house was a short walk away and totally unassuming from the outside. In fact the inside was pretty basic. What you did notice were the high walls surrounding the house. Not surprising really. It was here that an attempt on his life was made resulting in his death.

Leon Trotsky’s house Mexico City

Two very different houses. Two very different gardens. Casa Azul brightly coloured. Shaded. Trotsky’s open with a birds eye view of the high walls. Yet peaceful.

Did I mention pyramids. Who knew they had pyramids in Mexico. I didn’t. To be fair if I knew then what I know now I may have just avoided them. Yes. They were fabulous but worth nearly having a coronary? To be fair. Probably.

Teotihuacan is 40 km out of Mexico City,and is the site of the most important pre Colombian city in Mexico. Building began around 200 BC and at its peak was believed to house 200;000 people. The main pyramids are the Sun and the moon and unlike Egypt’s pyramids are solid.

We climbed the Sun pyramid. I say we climbed it. Ian managed to get to the top. I managed half to three quarters of the way. Stopped as I thought I was going to die and went back down. Going down was even worse to be fair ~ I never knew I had a heart ~ but something was beating so hard that it nearly popped out of my chest. Talk about being dizzy. A little bit sick and terrified. It is after all 143 ft high. Up dodgy uneven steps. At an altitude of 7,000 feet.

I know it mind sound stupid but I hadn’t even thought about altitude. Not until the tour guide mentioned it!

We stumbled upon a tourist fair in the main square on Sunday. A square is an underestimate. Another massive area ~ called Constitution Square or Zocolo you could imagine huge armies marching and great ceremonial events being held here. Our visit had none of these. They must have missed the email saying we were arriving. What we got were a huge amount of stalls with each area of Mexico represented!

And dancing.

The colours were fabulous ~ this group was from Oaxaca which was stop no 3 on the trip.

What a difference a couple of hundred yards makes. Just off the square and next to the Cathedral. You don’t expect to walk out of the cathedral and into groups of exotic looking dancers with scary masks and headdresses. Called Conchero dancers with an interesting history of Aztec and Christian mix.

Next stop. A museum. I hadn’t heard of this one but it was on Ian’s list. A collection of 66,000 pieces donated by a Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim and housed in a fabulous space The Soumaya named after his late wife. A beautiful building and in the inside a bit like New York’s Guggenheim. All circular walks up to each floor. An amazing collection of art and statues with the largest collection of Rodin outside of France. It was breathtaking in its simplicity and beauty. The building itself looking like a twisted top hat.

Rodin Rodin everywhere

One of the things that struck me about Mexico City was just how green it was. Chapultepec Park is huge and it received the International Large Urban Parks Gold Award and was named the best urban forest in the world.

Covering 1,695 acres it includes Chapultepec Castle which overlooks the park, the Botanical gardens and huge swathes of trees. The views from the castle are pretty amazing as you look out over the city and see a sea of green. The roads have planting on the sidewalks and many have planting along central reservations.

Another lovely building is the Palacio de Belle Artes which houses one of Diego Rivera’s most famous murals ~ Man at the Crossroads. This was commissioned by Rockerfeller but when Rivera refused to omit Lenin from the artwork it was painted over. I have to say the Mexican mural art really fascinated me. It was recreated for this museum. There is an interesting back story to the whole fiasco.

There were other pieces by Mexican moralists which I found fascinating. One I really liked ~ David Siqueiros was involved in a failed assassination attempt on Leon Trotsky. Another fact I learnt!

Mexico City was fabulous. A real surprise and full of amazing museums , friendly and polite people. There were so many photo opportunities.

Having survived the big city our next trip was the five and a half hour bus ride to Guanajuato, a smaller and courful town north of Mexico. Tickets bought. Bags packed. Taxi booked.