Hola Madrid

Another adventure. This time Madrid. We were last there in 2016 and I remember bits.

Like a Harry Potter look a like and a large Spider-Man in the Plaza Mayor.

Before you comment. No. It’s not me in the spider man outfit. But my memory is hazy regarding the galleries or museums.

Entertainment

Plaza Mayor

Madrid terminal 4 is massive. Add in 4S and it’s bloody massive. Add a journey from 4S to terminal 4 by mini train to passport control up and up the escalators and out to meet our pre booked Uber which never arrives. Typical help from them ~ the discussion was like going round in circle’s for days.

A great start for me and the dodgy legs and back but I managed to get to the public taxi rank where they saw my walking stick and pushed us through. Not literally obviously but I wouldn’t have minded if it meant I could get to sit down.

A 20 minute taxi ride to the hotel through a myriad of small one way streets. Which makes me happy I’m not driving.

Hotel reception

For this trip it was a hotel stay. A birthday trip for Ian and all booked and planned by him. A man who likes little fuss for any day let alone a birthday. A house party in France in 2005. A trip to Paris in 2015 and it had to be Spain this year. He does have other birthdays as well.

A fabulous reception area to check in and some of the best staff I have encountered in a long time. You don’t get this in our usual Airbnb.

The lift

I had heard that the lifts on one side of the hotel were like mini libraries and indeed they didn’t disappoint. Stuffed with books. It was so beautiful, yet I’m not sure if anyone actually managed to prise a book out to actually read.

Tiled lift doors

On the other side of the reception area was a beautiful tiled wall with the lift doors tiled too. The attention to detail was brilliant.

Side street

The streets are so narrow in the old town. One way. Prone to traffic jams ~ but easy to hail a taxi, and noisy at night.

Side streets

A long walk through the city and at one point Ian was saying his usual mantra. Put your camera away. And put your phone in your pocket. Like every city in the world you are only a few streets away from one you don’t really want to walk through. Not the one above but we were quite close.

Best form of transport

Before we left we watched the Michael Portillo series on weekends away on Channel 5. He’d visited Madrid and there were a few places he had suggested which caught our eye. Of course as soon as he mentioned the best place for Churro I made a note. I’m a bit partial to them, usually with sugar but when in Madrid ….


CHOCOLATERÍA SAN GINÉS

The place had a two queques. One for outside. One for inside. I am not a natural queuer but I hadn’t searched this place out not to partake. We did and we over ordered. The first time ever I have left churros on a plate.

The chocolate was thick and dark and coated the churros perfectly. You can see why it’s still going ~ first opened in 1894.

Churros and chocolate

Chocolate ~ yes please

Day 1 was a visit to The Reina Sofía a museum of 20th century and contemporary art.

Where the Goya the Picasso and Dali were plentiful, as were the visitors. But generally you could get to see the paintings without being bruised by the elbows of over enthusiastic visitors vying for the best place to take photos. Unlike the royal palace later in the week.

Enter the galleries.
Party time
Viewing the Guernica by Picasso

We were told to go and see the Guernica at this museum and Goya’s black paintings at The Prado. We did both.

The Guernica was obviously the highlight for many people here. There was always a mass of visitors snapping away. Me included.

Picasso

Maruja Mallo, The Fair ( La verbena),

I have to say I hadn’t heard of Mallo but I liked what I saw. A lot.

Salvador Dalí

I can’t get my head around some of Dali’s paintings. They often intrigue me but the title of this one intrigued me more.

‘The Great Masturbator’

Salvador Dalí

Another one I liked but at first I missed the blood ~ Man with Wounded head.

Salvador Dalí

Woman at the window ~ very simple and understated.

Portrait of Paul Éluard

I think I was Dali’d out by the end of the visit. Other artists were available.

The royal palace

We have seen so many palaces on city vacations that often they merge into one.

We visited this in 2015 but I recall very little. Unusually Ian booked a guided tour which you be honest I was grateful for as we often skipped the queues.

Portrait of the Royal family

Painted years before the old King abdicated.

King’s crown

Apparently not worn on the king’s head but sits on the chair next to him when needed for ceremonial duties. Sensible really ~ imagine the itch you’d get. I do by just wearing a beanie.

The stairway

Two sides to the stairway – originally reserved for the men to the left and the women to the right. Or the other way around but whatever it was it was separate sides.

For the business of tourists it was up one side and down the other. Unless you were posing for photographs like a fashion model tossing your hair and pouting. And that was just the men. Then getting miffed when people actually wanted to ascend or descend. I am still amazed how many people still only see the views from their camera as they take a selfie.

Thrones

A bit formal for the cottage but the upright backs may be good for my dodgy back.

All that glitters

Like all great palaces all that glitter is probably gold leaf. Stunning ceilings, and notan cobweb on sight and no broken light bulbs.

A bit of crystal

Not an Ikea shade to be found. Beautiful huge crystal chandeliers ~ which always make me think of the scene from Only Fools & horses.

Drapes

They certainly don’t have a moth problem. The stunning silk drapes with covers to keep the tourists from touching the silk look in perfect order. Live in London and you know a thing or two about moths. Trust me.

Gilded mirrors

You won’t find one of these at a French Brocante. Mirrors upon mirrors, beautiful shapes and huge.

Set for an intimate dinner!

I mentioned the elbow dodging earlier. This was a classic photo opportunity for some. It’s a dining table. Not a famous Stradivarius as in the next room. But I was nearly pushed into the next room by the same man who was desperate to get a photo on the stairs

If asked I would have willing obliged. As I made sure I did for the rest of the tour I made sure I was just in view of his shot ~?but just out of elbow reach. Wanted or not.

Stradivarius
Parque de El Retiro

I remember this one. Especially the boating lake.

From the Welcoms to Madrid website –

Covering over 125 hectares and comprising more than 15,000 trees, El Retiro Park–recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site–is a green oasis in the heart of the city’

Certainly a breath of fresh air and a lovely walk away from the hustle and bustle.

Some of the 15,000 trees

The highlight of the trip other than Ian’s birthday obviously was the visit to the museo de Prado

A highlight as the building is fabulous. The art is stunning. The museum is large light and airy. Groups of well behaved school children of all ages with pencils and notebooks ~ a joy to see art appreciation being encouraged so young.

The disappointment. No photos. I get it but I like to snap and read about the ones I really like later. The Picasso black paintings for example. A bit too dark in content for me but interesting.

You need more than a day and very comfortable shoes < the collection is vast.

I’m now returned all full of the three C’s. Culture. Churros and Covid

Ian is happy he has been able to use his Spanish and he did. His conversations with the taxi drivers were the best and a joy to hear. My Spanglish didn’t compare.

Didn’t we have a lovely time. Porto.

It wasn’t a great start. Let’s talk about airports. You like some. You don’t like others. For us London City is the best although things there are changing. Easy to get to for us. Quick. Convenient and small. Although it’s getting busier. Then there’s Gatwick. A bit further away but easy to get to. Both always by public transport. Have you seen the price of parking at an airport. Especially London City. But let’s talk Heathrow. We always try to avoid it. Busy. Used to be difficult to get to so that was always our excuse. But now the Elizabeth line is open it’s another easy option. But that’s it’s only plus for me. We avoid it as much as we can.

But flights to Porto and timings meant we had to use it. Terminal 5. Designed by the Richard Rogers Parrnership there’s no doubt it’s impressive. Designed to handle 38 million passsengwrs i doubt it was meant for them all to be there at once. Let’s say the travel experience was testing. Starting at security. Check in is always fine. Thank god for the ability to download your boarding pass to an app. We travel light ~ no check in suitcase ~ for travel to Casa Verano no suitcase. It’s a shame nobody told the man in front that he should have checked his case in. Too big for a carry on there was a carry on when it went through security. Sadly we were behind him. And Ian’s bag got stopped too. School boy error. his bag had moved over the liquids.

The man’s suit case was emptied. He was made to open the packages one by one. His clothes went into a pile on the right. The items to be scanned and tested to the left. Whilst we were getting irritated by the long wait the young security girl was engaging him in conversations. Why didn’t they just take him aside and tell him that it all needed to be checked in. There was no way he’s stuff that case in the overhead locker. Even the other security guys weee getting irritated.

To make matters worse inside the massive terminal at the far end of the building we were sitting charging phones and having coffeee in the lounge and guess what. He came and sat next to us. You’d be surprised. I bit my lip. He still had his suitcase.

Queues

You know that old Peter Paul and Mary song. Leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again. Well I do know when but I didn’t know when we would leave. Talk of a bum fight. I thought we were walking to Porto when the gate was announced. Then it was chaos. Theee weeks ago we were emailed. BA we’re having Finn air operate the flight. No big deal. At least it wasn’t cancelled. But at the gate passengers were told that if they were in certain boarding groups they had to put their cabin baggage in the hold as it was a small plane. This happens a lot at London city due to weather conditions and the weight on the flight. More often they have to odd load passengers. Next time they do it if I’m travelling to the casa I’ll take it. It pays for the flight and the next one in compensation. I digress. Chaos on boarding. Stuffed on buses. Driven so far I thought they’d changed the plane to a bus boarded and sat in the runway for an hour.

The upside. The staff from Finn air were delightful. So finally we took off and arrived safely in Porto. Late. But fed and ready to make our way to the Airbnb. I had no idea where. What it was like. Ian does the research on them and books it.

Arriving into Porto

Ian had booked another cracker. Close to the metro. The host was waiting there to meet us and it was a 2 minute walk to the apartment. The Porto adventure had begun. We had originally booked pre Covid and had to cancel because of travel restriction. But we had arrived and had a full itinerary to get through.

Terrace view
Terrace view

Early to bed. Early to rise. Up and out by 8.30 this morning to start the marathon walkabout of Porto. 20,500 steps later. First impressions. Excellent. People had mentioned the amount of building works. They were right. It’s huge. The amount of tourists. Again. They were right. There is a lot. But away from the crowds along the smaller side streets it’s easier. You see things that many will miss.

Usual view

The streets are narrow in the older parts of town and many of the properties are ripe for renovation. There is a huge amount of building work going on in the centre of Porto which meant a detour or two.

Drying your smalls

My brother had been here two weeks previously and had warned me of how steep the climb could be. So I’d like to say I was prepared. I wasn’t. My calves are as tight as tight can be. But as usual we walked and walked until we literally could walk no more. And then had a nata tart. A recurring feature of the trip. Portuguese tarts.

How many.

I loved these before we arrived but I ate so many on this trip with the best yet to come in Lisbon. oh. And warm they are beyond delicious.

We had walked over to the other side of the bridge. An area which held the cellars of the major port producers. The bridge gave a great view up and down stream as long as you dodged the trams. I didn’t aim to be knocked down by a tram.

Over the bridge

Helio. There’s a tram coming !

Port

All the major Port producers have their cellars and tasting rooms here. We went to Sandeman in the Drouro valley who told us that the cellar had been moved to the town out of the country as they could control the temperatures better.

Riverside Porto
In disguise

I’d like to say this is is in disguise. Me on the phone calling a cab. But it’s not. A ship was in and these two had just come off board. Obviously an ear worm came into my head. So. Just to share. In the Navy.

River watch.

I love sitting and watching people and there were more than enough people to watch. People just hanging about watching the world go by. Drinking. Eating. Laughing. I loved this person quietly watching the world go by and couldn’t resist taking a photo.

Church of Saint Ildefonso

Oh my. There are churches. Big fat gothic buildings stuffed to the rafters in glitter and gold. Talk about pomp. There’s gold on gold. . Gilded frames. Paintings. Silver and gold. The treasures of the church. Then there are the more simple ones. Still a bit fancy. Beautiful blue Portuguese tules on the outside. Lovely blue and white. We always managed to arrive just as a service was about to start. Let’s be honest they have a lot of them. Some we went in. Some we didn’t.

Tiles

I asked Ian if he thought these gates would be too much for the entrance to Casa Verano. He just rolled his eyes. I wasn’t sure if it was because I asked or because he needed sun glasses because of the glaring amount of gold. He had to have a sit down.

Look away.

I have a confession to make. McDonalds. We went in a MacDonalsa. Not to eat. Honest Guv. But we had read that when they took over this building they retained most of the interior and worked around it. A great entrance ro the restaurant. Can I call it that even ?

Yes. McDonald’s.

Would you believe it.

Just look at that interior. The glass had been kept and is now behind the servers. The chandeliers are still hanging proud. The only thing that has changed is the food. It’s still a MacDonalds

Btw city is a city of many parts. The splendour of some of its shops and buildings and then the run down building s which are still beautiful in their own way. Side by side. Or run down apartments above beautiful shops. But. There is huge developments going on. On large buildings and on a lot of the smaller ones.

Elegance

Shabby

Faded glory
Busy Porto

Friends who has also been to Porto recently had messaged and said it was busy. It was. And it wasn’t ro be fair. Like any major tourist city it was busy in parts. Let’s not talk about the queue for the Lello library. It was hideous. It looks beautiful on line and I would like to see inside. But as soon as anyone says anything about Harry Potter and a library’ the queue length trebles.

Apparently J.K. Rowling worked as an English teacher in Porto in the early 1990s while working on the first chapters of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone. The shop’s Neo-Gothic façade and majestic Art Nouveau interior with the fabulous crimson staircase are said to have inspired her depictions of both the Grand Staircase at Hogwarts, and the Flourish and Blotts book shop in Diagon Alley. I can’t say. We didn’t get to go inside. Well not this time. .

But walking down the side streets it was much quieter with the added bonus you get to see some gorgeous small shops. And avoid the crowds.

Station glass

This isn’t like our station in either Peckham Rye or Bruton. Or even the Temple of Doom. Now that’s a Harry Potter one. Harry Potter and the temple of Doom. This station has beautiful glass panels and tiles ~ they say 20.000 hand painted tiles depicting important moments of Portuguese history. I couldn’t honestly say. I didn’t count them. Oh. And plenty of tourists.

Shredded skirt

Street entertainment Porto style. Trust me it was entertainment. Bare footed hip swinging guitarist who was working his audience. Whilst swinging his hips and his fabric grass skirt. The video is funnier.

No passing place

This reminds me of a trip in Spain where I took the wrong turning. I have to say that it is one of only a few times I have ever wanted to get out of the car and leave it there. Once in Spain and once in Mew Zealand. But many of the roads in the old town are narrow. Very narrow.

Vintage tourist tram

Would I come back to Porto. Yes. It’s a lovely city and a highlight of the trip was a trip to the Drouro valley for wine and port tasting.

The Mediterranean garden

After a short break in Barcelona we are back on the Costa del Sol. Back up the wiggly road ~ 2,000 feet up the mountain to Cómpeta. An easy but packed flight where we had the offer of being off loaded with compensation of €250 each and being put on the next flight. If seats were available. Tempting but we thought the flight was overbooked because Spain were playing in Malaga in the Euro qualifiers. So that would mean the next flight would be full too. So it was a no for us. And I was wrong about the football flight. Very few to see but a plane full of saga travellers. Me included.

We are coming up to our 6th anniversary. Not us. We have lost count. But having the house here and I just wish we had found the pueblo blanco before. My love for the village the house and the surrounding area hasn’t diminished. We are here less since a certain event which will remain nameless. So we need to make the most of our time travelling in Spain. And in the garden. And with friends.

Let’s talk about the weather. A British obsession. It’s abnormally hot for March. Bonkers hot. Easter here can be a rotten time. Cold. Wet. And it doesn’t matter if it’s March or April. But not this year. The weather is hot. There hasn’t been rain in ages and there is still no sign of rain in the forecast. Unlike the UK. Where it hasn’t stopped and the reports say that March has been the gloomiest in decades. To. Be be fair Britain is the gloomiest it has been in decades. Not just the weather. But to be fair you often hear our Spanish friends commenting on the weather too. ‘hace frio’ you hear. Whilst we are still in shorts and T-shirts. The Spanish in polo neck sweaters with scarves and gloves.

So we arrive at the house. The mimosa tree by the gate is in flower ~ it started as a shoot from one that had been cut down and is now glorious. As long as you don’t have allergies. But I’ll take an extra anti histamine as the colour and effect is awesome. And there will be armfuls picked for the house.

The garden through the gate looks great and I sigh with relief. We are lucky to have friends who water the garden when it’s needed ~ these borders are largely drought resistant ~ but believe me. They still need some water. It may only be 28* now ~ yes. Only 28* but the scorching months of July and August means the most drought tolerant plants need the occasional drink. Last summer the temperature touched 40 in the garden. So I was told. We don’t come in those months. I did in the first lockdown. Well I got caught here for 9 weeks and trust me. The sun may be out but I spent most of my days indoors. In my pants watching Netflix. Air con on. And large bills. Not to be repeated.

There are times I wish we had smelly vision for social media. The curvy path is full of freesias. As well as Clivia and rosemary. But it is the whiff of the freesia that you get as you walk up the path. Bought over the last three years from my friends at Peter Nyssen they get better and better each year. The bulbs. Peter Nyssen couldn’t get any better in my eyes. The Clivia are gorgeous and there are still a few to flower. I did have a yellow one as a pot plant decades ago. Now I want one for the garden. One dozen.

I planted a row of scented pelargonium along the path. To fight off the mozzies. Mozzies love me and last year this path was a nightmare at times. We have cut a lot back. We as in the Gardner who comes in to help. Opened up the space so hoping this year we will be in a better position. This area gets late afternoon shade but still gets as dry as Jerusalem. There are two large strelitzia Nicolai here. One has flowered since we have been here and the smaller of the two looks like it’s going to flower shortly. Excited? Hell yes.

Now the above won’t excite you. Trust me I’m ecstatic. I think this is the new flower which will no doubt flower when we aren’t there. It’s a lovely black and white bird of paradise flower. It’s a particularly gorgeous flower. Black and white large flowers.

The main part of the garden border which has a variety of plants. Yucca which I’m in fear of losing. Small palms. A bed around the olive tree with creeping Rosemary. Creeping. Not creepy. The curry plant. The olive tree and agapanthus all co exist. There is also a lilac which is struggling. I have to think again and go check it daily re flowering. If it doesn’t then it’s time to say goodbye. It’s no use having something that takes up room. And not produce.

Have I ever said I like tulips. Only once or twice. Or a thousand times. I’ll say it again. I like tulips. Here. There and down in Somerset.

These are tulip palmyra. a little short but I don’t care. They are planted in the white wall and are prone to hit by the wind. So shorter than expected are fine. A glorious colour against the white wall. They are a bit early for me to use in the UK.

I planted two pots which included these. Dutch Dancer. These two are also shorter than I’ve grown before. But I love them. I have some in Pitcombe again this year. Well hopefully. I’m yet to see the pots in person.

A bit of a contrast to tulips. My favourite agave. Ever. The foxtail agave. It’s a beauty. This one is in a pot. Obviously. You can see that. I’ve already taken two out of the pot and planted them in the garden. There are a few more to do when I have the time. My worry. That it will flower. Why? Because whilst the flower is lovely like a long fox tail as soon as it flowers the plant dies. I’ll forego the flower for now.

I love these. Lovely black aeonium which has survived the heat of the summer and the low temperatures of Spring. The one I had in London has become mush. My fault as I should have brought it in. Two bits that broke off have been stuck in the ground and are growing well. It’s one thing that I never get tired of. Seeing what we can grow in the garden here.

Hello Prickles the prickly pear. These are all dying off in our area. It’s the cochineal fly. Ravages the plant. Squash it on the white wall and you get a red blob. Get it on your white T-shirt. And it’s a nightmare to get out. I hose it down with the hose to get the fly off. Covid breaks took its toll a bit but it’s still there. And it fruits.

You know I said I like tulips. Have I also said I like agapanthus. Well I like agapanthus. The garden is away with them. Mainly blue. Some white and the latest addition popping purple. They self seed too though it does take a bit before they are mature enough to flower. I have to admit to buying 6 more this trip and planting them at the rear of the house. It’s dry. Very dry so they should thrive. Added as well a medium sized bottlebrush. A friend once commmented that she though the bottlebrush was a bit common. I think in the right place with a beautiful blue sun it’s fabulous. It’s also a great pollinator and gets covered bt bees. Gorgeous and a bee magnet. Win win.

We have two large and a small nispero growing on the bank. Also known as loquat it’s the big leaves that do it for me. The fruit is ok. But they can and do go a bit mush on the tree and don’t keep well when picked. Nispero jam is pretty lovely though.

The view from the bathroom window. The strelitzia Reginae strategically planted. But not by me but by the previous owners. Now in full flower

Thankfully so far the large pines on the bank have survived. Many around us haven’t as the water table has been so low. Also absent this year are signs of the processionary caterpillars. Vicious little bathplugs. In previous years we’ve had the nests removed from the trees but this year there weren’t anybody there wasn’t the number in the trees on the windey road either.

The first time the double doors have been open since last September. Opened so the fly screen can be checked. Cleaned and the doors closed again.

The circle of planting under the olive tree. Osteospermum. Curry plant. (Helichrysum italicum). Rosemary and some succulents ~ a gorgeous crop of Carpobrotus edulis ~ a fabulous bright pink flower on long succulent arms. Not yet in flower so next time. Oh and some freesia.

Euphorbia candelabrum. Prickly pear. Foxtail agave.

A selection of plants taste dotted around rue garden. The cactus that’s not a cactus ~ the euphorbia candelabrum.

A selection of flowers giving the garden some early colour.

But it wasn’t all gardening. It was the start of Semana Santa. Easter is a huge celebration in Spain. Not huge. Massive with celebrations and processions. Each with a different meaning. We were around for one only. Palm Sunday. The procession travels through the village to the Plaza Almijara and to the church. Each procession is very different. There is the men’s procession on Good Friday very early in the morning. The children’s procession. And one for the women of the pueblo Blanco. Plus others. It’s a spectacular sight and one that is carried out all over Spain. We were in Salamanca in 2018 and saw the one there. The first three photos are Competa 2023.

Semana Santa 2023 Competa.
Semana Santa 2018 Salamanca.

But. The weather. Let’s talk about the weather. First time the legs had been exposed since October. A drive down the wiggly road to the coast. Nerja. I’m surprised how many people know where it is. An old colleague when I told him we had a house 30 mins away knew where it was. He’d been there in his honeymoon over 30 years ago. Ex neighbours in Somerset told us they went there often and came for lunch when they were last there. It has grown on us.

Nerja
Nerja and the Balcon de Europe
Beach time.

Then along the coast is Torrox. Apparently has the best climate in Europe but we don’t spend enough time there to validate it. But it’s a great long walk along the promenade. It was another warm day. And no that’s not us on the beach. I don’t want to see myself in swimming trunks in March let alone make others suffer.

The man in the hat
Torrox Costa

It wouldn’t be the same without the pueblo Blanco. It’s six years since Ian booked a trip where we unexpectedly ended up staying in Competa. We had booked Frigiliana but it was cancelled a week before we arrived and we ended up staying in Competa instead. The best cancellation ever.

These steps are always a gem. Always bright. Always full and colourful. The planted balcony. Always catches you as you turn the corner in the narrow streets. The gorgeous blur pots of Casa Beaumont with the planting changing as the seasons change.

Competa by night. Competa by day. And in a blink of an eye another visit is over.

Casa Beaumont.

Viva España ~ Buenos Tardes Barcelona

You have to love a cheesey ear worm. Y viva España was one from the “70’s. I remember my mother singing along to it in the kitchen “ oh this year we are off to sunny Spain; Y Viva España’, Sorry not sorry if you remember it and you are now signing it all day. But. We are off to sunny Spain. But that’s nothing new for us really. Not these days..

Barcelona. Of course we are arrive at the airport early. We always do ~ but it’s a reminder today how little I miss commuter travel. It’s been going on 8 years since I did the commute and it’s one of the things I really don’t miss. Controversial I know but one of my pet hates are people putting on their make up on a packed overground train with arms and elbows going everywhere whilst they do it. I have never lathered my face , whipped out my razor and shaved on my commute. But as usual I digress. Enough of my irritations. There are many.

Travel brings out a lot. People stuffing cases into the overhead lockers irrespective of what’s already in there. Trying to squeeze an oversized case and not succeeding. We try to travel with as little as possible these days but it only works if we are heading up the mountain. But a 45 minute delay sitting on the tarmac doesn’t help but a good flight.

It’s been a while since we were in Barcelona. I first came 32 years PI ( pre Ian) when there was no protective circle around the Basilica and I can’t remember whether we had to pay to enter. I remember virtually climbing a wall and I am sure no roof. There is no fear of that these days. High security and arthritis stops that. And the fear I couldn’t get down.

Ian and air came here about 15 or so years ago. But then the queues were hideous and we hadn’t booked. So we didn’t go in. This time we have booked a tour guide and tickets so we are better organised. I’ll say it about this building what I always say about Stonehenge. It will be nice when it’s finished. Though this one will be.

So we are heading back tomorrow for a tour.

I’m sure these guys could tell a story or two. It looks like they are gentlemen of a certain age who will have seen the changes to the city. The amount of travellers to see thus Gaudi influence. The building. The influx of AIRBNB. But for now their concentration is on other things. Boules. And friendships.

But first the important Tapas and a walk around the Familia Sagrada to see the one light on the top which is illuminated daily with some of the stained glass lit as well. And an early night ready for three days of sightseeing.

The security and street lights are too bright to get a good idea of what it looks,like at night but Tomorrow is another day.

Another day. Another day of sightseeing carefully crafted by Ian. I just turn up and go. Today we have done it again. Dressed like twins. Almost the same and not on purpose. Both have dark jeans. I’ve got a maroon polo shirt. Him a maroon T-shirt. Both have either a navy or black round neck jumpers. Too late to change. But believe me it’s not planned.

So we made it into the Sagrada Familia. The queue was long and everyone had tickets as all tickets must be bought online. Easier for them but an issue for those still without the technology. Security checks at the door. No hats inside. No swimming costumes or short shorts. A reminder that it’s not a tourist attraction. First and foremost it’s a place of worship. Tick on all of them. A little time before we met our guide.

Ian’s first comment was that it reminded him of the set from Lord of the Rings films. Especially Rivendell the home of the elves. He should know. He’s probably watched the film a trillion times. Interesting as Gaudi’s concepts for the inside of the Sagrada Familia was one of a forest. the tree columns. I’ll have to go back and watch the film and take note.

To be fair I wasn’t expecting to have my breath taken away. By the cathedral. Not the tour guide. But the scale, the detailing and the pure majesty is breathtaking. Utterly breathtaking. So different to the previous visit. The first stone was laid in 1882, the building was consecrated by the Pope in 2010 and still remains unfinished. For now. Plans are afoot to finish it in two stages but additional time was needed due to delays with the Covid pandemic.

We don’t usually have a tour guide but this was a small group and he was amazing. Pointed out little details that we would have missed. A history of the building works and of Gaudi. Right up until his untimely death when he was knocked over by a tram.

How some of the carvings depict the architects that followed Gaudi : The faces of some of the children are Japanese. How another was finished not long before the architect died and is engraved with a C and the face is his. The architect. Not Gaudi,s.

I love the texture and shape of these stairs. To look at. When we stayed in Cordoba in 2018 the hotel we stayed in had a similar design which I loved. But I’m not a fan of using stairs like this ~ a tale of which will follow.

The light from the stained glass is stunning and changes as the light increases and decreases as the sun moves around the building.

The columns are massive and are a mix of sandstone and some red columns using imported materials from Iran ~ it’s made of porphyry. When polished they are highly shined but for the most part they are left unpolished. The acoustics from the organ is fabulous. The height of the columns immense. The design was to make it feel like a forest. The columns are the trees. And are not dead straight.

The colours from the stained glass are beautiful and very varied throughout. I love a bit of stained glass ~ to be fair I like glass. The windows have names of Saints and shrines from all over the world written on them. Not that I could read them from that distance. My eye sight may be food but not that good.

The Canopy over the altar with a brass crucifix is fabulous and very different from the figures you see outside. Look at Jesus head on this one and compare it with the one on the outside. This one is what you would expect. The one outside I feel is so amazing.

The Passion façade was built from Gaudi designed and feature Jesus, Herod and Peter amongst others depicting the crucifixion. They are i loves these figures for their stark angular shapes. Jesus head looks like a book and it said that it is to resemble the bible. These are just a few of the structures. There are so many on the building which could be a whole blog in itself.

Ian had booked a viewing from one of the towers. They are two which you can go up and you are allocated which one when you buy the ticket. Ian’s face was a sight when we entered the lift to be told that the lift is taking us up and then there are steps to come down the other side. He wasn’t worried for himself but he remembered an incident in Toledo in 2018 when we had to come down a spiral staircase. Too late. We were at the top. Amazing views across Barcelona. Views of some of the decorations on the towers. The current work being done on some of the towers. Then the descent. I was fine for a while. Spiral stairs with walls either side. I could take my time. Slowly. Then we got to the bit where there was a rail. But nothing the other side to hold onto. Don’t ask me why it’s a problem. It just is. Ian took my camera. My man bag. I took deep breaths. 500/600 steps later I was down. Literally. I had to sit down. Was it worth it? I’ll tell you when my is back recovers my nerves are calmer and my knees stop shaking.

Gausi designed and opened a school for his workers children and sometimes for the children of the local area. A lovely building with a wavy roof. Was a very different but lovely build against the magnificent gothic and art deco designs alongside it.

Tour over and a bit of a recharge it was odd to be at Las Ramblas. Apparently we stayed just off there when Ian and I were last here. I can’t remember a thing about the hotel but do remember bits of the trip. We must have been here in high season last time as I do remember the Ramblas being busier. This is one of the side streets off the ramblas which goes on forever.

Another walk down to look at the Gaudi buildings. We have been inside previously so could just stand and stare at the facade from outside and to be honest the entry price had increased hugely since we were last here. Hordes of students hogging the pavements waiting to go in. But I love this facade. It’s beautiful and simple all together. The balconies look like little masks for a masked ball.

Next on the agenda is Park Güell, one of Gaudi’s most notable creations in Barcelona. And a visit to Casa Vicens another Gaudiq masterpiece neither of which I have seen before.

But I think todays walking has been enough.

nearly 19,000 steps. 55 floors and just over 8 miles. No wonder I need a lie down.

Travels around Spain ~ Valencia.

It’s been just over three years since our last visit. How can that happen. I know time flys when you are having fun but three whole years? But then again this year will see me celebrate 8 years of retirement. I know. I must have retired early. Or I hide my age well. It was the former. Remember. People said I’d be bored. What on earth would I do. I still don’t know the answer. As usual I digress.

We have decided on Ian’s suggestion to travel via a different city on our way to La casa for a number of trips. A bit like bogof ~ buy one get one free. Except it’s not. The first trip for 2023 is back to Valencia for a few days before we head home to Cómpeta. We also decided on an airport stay overnight to beat travel difficulties with rail strikes.

So a hotel was booked. A room on the 12th floor with runway views. Yes. Runways views. Perfecto for the plane spotter which I’m not. But great to see the airport. The slight worry was the description of the room facilities on a major booking site. King size bed. ✔️ the standard facilities. But rather alarmingly it stated private bathroom and toilet paper. The first is a must for me. I may be an oversharer in many areas but bathrooms isn’t one of them. Toilet paper ~ I know during the pandemic there was panic buying but surely this is a given. I’m happy to report that the well known hotel chain had both.

We don’t usually fly from Heathrow. For us living south of the river it’s a pain to get to but the opening of the Elizabeth line has made it a bit easier. A tube line which is a pleasure to travel on as well. Light. Airy. And not too packed. I usually board the flight and shove in my ear pods and sleep ready for the walking I know that we will do when we arrive.

I was a little worried when listening to the flight attendant when she mentioned life jackets under the seats to see the man in the opposite aisle checking that his was there. I have never done that! Ever. Though it does remind me to check that the yellow vest and red triangle is in the car when we pick it up in Malaga next week.

I’m still wearing masks. It’s like a comfiest blanket for me and whilst many will say that it makes no difference, for me I’m happier wearing it in large gatherings or on public transport. I see a number of immune suppressant people and I feel more comfortable for them if I do.

In 2019 we stayed in a great apartment in the Ruzafa district in Valencia. Three years later we are back and it is just as we remembered it. Great hosts to meet us and a lovely clean bright and welcoming apartment. Ian is great at finding these and we have places lined up for Barcelona, Lisbon and Porto for the next few months.

Despite only arriving mid afternoon we don’t let the grass grow under our feet. Ian was happy after a chat with the hosts who complimented him on his Spanish ~ his is so much better than mine. He has conversations. I have sentences. He says I hear it and understand it and read it but putting my brain through to my voice is still a problem. Some will say it’s always been a problem. I disagree. Sometimes I speak and my mother comes out. It’s just a shame she wasn’t fluent in Spanish.

Ian and a stranger
Gorgeous streets

The side streets are narrow and the buildings colourful ~ though there are many fine buildings still ripe for development. When we were here in December 2019 it was wet. Biblical rain. Today we arrived in thermal vests and thick coats ~ not just those to be fair , but in the sun it was 20*. Cooler in the shade but still a tad warmer than London and warmer than our next destination.

Spain still has many things that we are losing in the Uk. Small shops. Independent artisan shops like this fabulous hand painted hat shop we passed on our walk into the centre.

Fabulous painted hats

Berets always remind me of two friends. People I have been friends with for decades. One Cate ~ who i first met back in 1980 when she was appearing at the Cardiff New theatre and who is the reason I have lived in the same street in London for the last 30 years | we became next door neighbours in London after she told me that a flat was for sale next door ~ who when we met was wearing a blue beret~ and my antique dealer friend Shirley who we met 30’years ago who is now in France. It’s funny how certain things remind you of people for ever.

The little shop www.elpintordesombreros.com and the hats are fabulous. We do have lots of artisan creators in the uk but many are on line only or at many of the wonderful fairs. Premises costs are too expensive.

It’s the same for restaurants ~ the city is full of small good quality eating places and not littered with chains. Yes there are the burger bars and the like but even their shop frontages look a bit more subdued. The weather is also better suited to outdoor seating which helps with smaller premises.

I remembered this wig shop from our last visit though I’m not tempted for either the fake moustache of the wig. I remember what I looked like with a moustache and it’s not coming back. I don’t want more hair on my lip than I have on my head. Oh. And I remembering because we walked past. Not because of a visit.

A walk into the centre to see familiar landmarks to visit this trip. The central market. The silk exchange. Just a mooch through the small colourful streets.

The joy of staying in an apartment is that you have a choice. Do you eat out. Or in. On the first night after arriving mid afternoon sometimes it’s just nice to grab something to eat indoors ~ we needed to soma bit of shopping anyway. We almost eaten all of the mandarins that the hosts has left us anyway! It also meant we could go for a good early evening wander ~ whilst it was dry and big too cold.

I love cities at night. Not for the night life these days ~ those days have long gone. But at night most European cities know how to showcase their architecture with good lighting. Take the train station close by timwheee we are staying. A beautiful but I’d valenciano Arg decor. Opened in 1916 and is simply like a step back in time. A fabulous entrance. Amazing ticket hall and booths. And trains that are running.

The entrance
The ticket booths. Still open.
The beautiful room off the rocket hall
The working clock
Indulge my current black and white obsession

It’s funny how some things are familiar even after only one visit. It was easy to find out bearings. There were one or two places we didn’t get to see last time. Which we will this. Some we saw during the day which we will visit at night. The list is endless

He’s still in the same position he was in back in 2019. Poor bloke must be freezing sitting in that water all the time. Talk about soggy bottom.

The colourful fountains on our walk. I thought they were lit just for the Christmas celebrations when we were last here. Obviously not!

The markets in Spanish towns are amazing. The variety of fresh produce is fantastic with locally grown vegetables freshly caught fish and a whole myriad of spices herbs and cheeses to tempt your culinary delights. The above is the central market. We visited a smaller local market when we went for a paella class which I preferred. Smaller yes but the chef who we walked around with knew all the stall holders ~ and it looked like he knows most of the shoppers in the market! explained that the fishmongers were closed on a Monday as there are no catches over the weekend. Obvious really , you want the freshest of fish. His mantra for a good paella. Good fresh seasonal produce to add to the rice.

Back to the restaurant as a group of six to jointly prepare and cook a fabulous lunch. A really interesting group. A guy from Korea. Another from Berlin a journalist who liked yoga and swing dancing. A girl from Manchester who was looking to get a digital nomad visa to teach English and a girl from the Ukraine who was working abroad pre the start of the war. And us. Old enough to be their grandfathers. It made for sn interesting chat over lunch.

We missed this last time and I remember why. The queue. It was massive and one thing we don’t do is queue. It eats into vital time when you have a timeframe on a short break. St Nicolas a Roman Catholic parish church. An absolutely stunning building in gothic style with more fabulous colours and more gilt than I have seen in a long time. Absolutely stunning. And guess what. No queue when we arrived. And a massive one when we left. Bonus.

It also has some stunning stained glass windows.

I hate steps. Not Steps as in 5.6.7.8 but climbing steps. To be fair it’s the coming down that kills me. So we climbed most of the way up the Torres but not all the way. But it is worth visiting unless you have an arthritic hip a fear of heights and a feeling of falling when descending steps. I’m really selling myself again.

We visited the Silk Exchange in 2019 and loved it. This time I loved it more. the architecture. The tiles. The light. It was magical. How I’d love a house with those tiles. I’d also love a room as big to take them. But not the door. Imagine the draught you’d get when opening the door for the Amazon deliveries.

The majesty of columns. Talk shapely curvy ~ and difficult to get a clear view. What you don’t see is that there are half a dozen people hiding behind the columns.

From a distance

I stood for what seemed like ages to get a clear view and then……. But it does make a good photo even if I say it myself!

The La Lonja (The Silk Exchange) is a Unesco World Heritage site with the first stone laid in 1492. And is definitely worth a visit or two.

Ian is great at organising these trips and finding the Airbnb. But the next photo isn’t one of them. Thankfully. It’s one of the bedrooms in El Museo Nacional de Ceramica y de las Artes Suntuarias Gonzalez Marti~ long title. We called it the Ceramics museum. ‘ Housed in the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas, it was founded on 7 February 1947, from the donation of Manuel González Martí’s ceramics collection. Seven years later, once the restoration of the palace was completed, the museum opened to the public on 18 June 1954.’

It is stunning and even better it was free entry on the day we went. I have to say that there are some irritating people wanting the perfect photograph. Not me although I am irritating. Three people were on the grand staircase going up to the first floor. Wanting the perfect Instagramable ( is that a word) photo. One at the bottom of the stairs. Two at the top. Posing. One leg one way. Pouting. Then suddenly telling someone off for interrupting their photo shoot and wanting to go up the stairs. We were about to go up too. What they didn’t realise was they told off one of the officials. Did they care. Not a bit. I was hoping they would have been shown the door.

The red room is well. Very red with a gorgeous chandelier and red chairs. The white room very calm with a grand piano a harp and some what looked like vintage guitars but they would have had a more interesting name.

I’ll admit to a better photo of this room back in 2019. But it wasn’t a Sunday that day and wasn’t as busy. In Valencia they wrap rope around the chairs and sofas to stop you sitting down. In the UK we are less subtle. We place something prickly to make sure you don’t even try !

I can’t imagine this getting through the narrow streets of Valencia and the occupants must have needed padded pantaloons to protect you from bottom bumps.

I had a fascination for the painted metal shutters of the garages and shops. These are just a few showing that grey roller shutters don’t need to be boring. Ever.

Doesn’t everyone dress up for a stroll around the street market?

Valencia is a city of many styles. The historic area. The central area. The trendy neighbourhoods.- one where we were staying Ruzafa. Then there is the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias. A sight that takes your breath away as you approach it and the second visit didn’t dilute the experience. An episode of Dr Who was filmed here and it’s like being in a sci fi movie. I suspect it’s a big like marmite. I hate marmite. I love this. It feels so light. Bright. Busy but not packed.

The Spanish love a fiesta. Or two. The year is littered with fiestas for everything. In Cómpeta we have one for the wine. One for the chestnuts. The annual Feria. Coming up in Valencia is The Fallas. Every year there are fireworks. Parades and hundreds of large paper mache figures made. And all but two are burnt on the last day of the festival. Two are saved by a public vote and the city has kept two from each Fallas since 1938. The 2023 exhibition is fabulous , spooky and bonkers. At times all three ~ we loved it.

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These are just a few. There were hundreds. There is also a children’s section where the figures are smaller. With more clothes as well.

It was a full on four days but a fabulous trip and a great idea of Ian’s to travel to La Casa via another Spanish destination. Now we are heading to Malaga and that drive up the wiggly road. I’d like to say it will be relaxing after all that walking. I suspect not.

Next trip. Barcelona.

Lights. Music. Walking.

This Christmas trip has been a bit of a lights extravaganza. I’ve said it before and being one to repeat myself I’ll say it again. Malaga is a vastly underrated destination. For many reasons. What they do so well and is a huge tourist and resident attraction is Festivals. Semana Santa parades and Christmas being two. The pueblo blanco’s have their Ferias. Their noche del vino. at Christmas the lights are spectacular.

Malaga has a great backdrop for the light show in the Botanical Gardens. La Conceptuon ~ the Jardin Botanivo Historico. A great place to visit during the day to see the extensive planting and the great walks through the gardens. Originally created in 1885 and which remained in private ownership until 1990 when it became municipal property and then opened to the public in /994. The gardens have a vast array of tropical plants collected from around the world over its 23 hectares.

Whilst a great place to walk during the day with cheap admission prices and a small cafe it is magical illuminated at night for this years Christmas show. This is the second year that it has been held in Malaga and this year the info says ‘ the walk is ‘ 2.2 kilometers in length where more than 20 light installations will transport visitors to historic places such as Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem.’

That is once you navigate the parking and the queue to get in. Parking generally for the gardens is small and like everything the Mathieson – Jones household does we aimed to arrive early. Like when we fly we are usually at the airport a week before if Ian has his way. He hates lateness. I hate rushing as I’m a bit of a panicker. What if the traffic is bad. What if we can’t park. Let me fast forward. We parked ok after a bit of a turn around. But the parking wasn’t difficult. The leaving was. Not because of traffic but because of the very kind person who felt it necessary to park so close to the drivers door that not even Twiggy would be able to slide into the drivers seat. Let alone a man of certain age and certainly not on the thinner side. I couldn’t even get a leg through the door. So. With someone waiting to take my space holding up the traffic I had to scramble in from the passengers side. Climb over the gear stick with a dodgy hip and arthritic knee. I managed eventually. And the car waited patiently for my space. Yes. I digress again. But I am no contortionist and I’m not as supple as I once was.

The photo above was taken from the queue to go in which was a bit like a air con in its own right. People panicking because they felt the 19.30 tickets were being let in before the 19.00 despite being told that we were in the right queue. I’d like to repeat some of their conversations. But I won’t. Or my comments to Ian. Neither are appropriate after the event. But the queue was fine. Orderly and no. The 19.30 hasn’t gone in before us. They had been ushered to another queue.

Oh. And we didn’t get to see the parador lit up. The path doesn’t take us up amongst the cactus ~ I suspect a bit dodgy in the dark and health and safety would be an issue. No matter me wants to fall over. A prickly pear. A first for here in Spain. you haven’t seen our electrician work or the man climbing our trees. It takes health and safety to a whole new level.

I have realised that we did miss the parador out in the walk. That was a major fail on my part. Map reading was never my strong point. I have yet to tell Ian. We also missed the camels. There is always next year. .

To be fair the queue moves quickly and tickets checked ~ no question on my old man’s discounted ticket which always disappoints me that they don’t ask for documentary evidence. That’s vanity for you. I never got checked for alcohol purchases either.

The website says ‘ welcome to Stela ~ Embark on the Christmas journey of the Star of the East and the Three Wise Men and let your imagination fly with STELA.

It is a magical journey through visuals and music

A lot of the lighting is very visual and some doesn’t photograph well with the crowds but the colours and the lighting is spectacular. An incredibly clever use of the light and a self guided one way pathway way through the gardens. Despite the numbers it never feels crowded once you get in. It is hugely popular and last year had over 110,000 visitors. I think this year that will be surpassed as last year was the first year and word of mouth has spread.

These crowns are large. And are one of the first spectacular pieces that you encounter. Not the first. But the one that took my breath away.

Particularly spectacular are the crowns. How I would love one of these illuminated on the roundabout that’s not a roundabout to be lit to signify we were in residence. A bit like the flag flying over Buckingham palace. Two things stopping that. The roundabout that’s not a roundabout has no services. ~ electricity and a Waitrose local ~ and it’s in the campo where no new builds are allowed. This technically would fail but thankfully the bulbs are all Led so would get a good energy rating!

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The bamboo forests look amazing during the day but lit up they take on an eerie feel but spectacular.

We three kings. Another high point but a low point in that as usual the idiot comes out in me as I sing the wrong words to the old Christmas carol | we three kings from orient are. One in a bus. And one in a car. One on a scooter blowing his hooter ……… I blame my mother for everything.

A rare sighting. But it’s Christmas and maybe a New Year’s resolution is to have at least one joint selfie a month in 2023. As long as we are in the same place that month! But also to show proof that we are out together and it’s not just Ian walking on his own.

The colours and placing of the lights is clever. Though at points a little dark. Which is fine until you put your glasss on your head to take a photo. Raise your head and they fall down your back. Onto the floor amongst a throng of people. Luckily we weee all standing still. So I was able to scrabble and find them. Without being knocked off my feet which would have been humiliating watching me get back up. And luckily I had packed a small torch.

The taking tree. We could hear noises as we weee approaching the areas where this tree was illuminated. To be fair we weren’t sure what to expect. It sounded from a distance that something was happening in the wood and maybe someone had left a microphone on. There were some strange and funny noises coming from the distance. You know that nursery rhyme. If you go down to the woods today. ….. you are in for a big surprise. Then there was talking and we realised as you do that it was the tree. I know. It so was weird but trust me. I recorded it and it does sound weird until the talking starts. think a bit Shirley valentine. Talking to a wall but the wall talks back. Remember next time you take the Kings advice and talk to your plants. They will sound weird if they reply.

Like the light show at the Cathedral there is a show against the mansion in the grounds. It’s pretty amazing and I think is one of the high lights of the walk. Oh. I’ve forgotten to say that there is music along a the walk which is a atmospheric as you take the journey which transports you to Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem. No Boney M singing rivers of Babylon but I had the look of Ian when I started to sing it. Quietly thankfully. Nino dodgy dance moves. Not on those paths. In the dark.

Not a spectacular photo but a special one for me. In our Spanish garden I have a bed of Clivia. Clivia and I go back decades ( not a dating relationship ) ~ but a plant I bought at a fabulous garden shop in Castle Cary owned by a friend and neighbour of ours at the time. I say she introduced me to a lot of interesting plants and hulks back then ~ an ex Blue Peter gardener and now living on Dartmoor with her rescue animals. Dartmoor ponies. Donkeys. Sheep and turkeys. I digress again. But I bought Clivia as house plants from her. So when we bought the house here and realised we could grow them in the garden I did. Then we came to the Botanical gardens and saw swathes of them planted under the trees I realised I could plant more. I have and will continue to . This photo is more to show the mass of Clivia than the lights. The following photo is an early one flowering at home I the garden. I will be back to see these beauties flower. In the daytime though oh. And for the record Clare the ex neighbour is the creator and seller of the fabulous Donkey Gloves with all profits going to the animals she rescues. Great gloves ~ I’m not biased. They are.

It was worth the 50 min drive down the wiggly road for sure and it’s a great tourist attraction not only for the international tourists here for Christmas but also the local residents who were attending. A lot of family groups old and young. Some even older than me which to be fair at some of the events we have been to lately is rare.

That’s the last of our Christmas outings for 2022. It will be a quiet New year for us as is usual. But not as quiet as 2020 and 2021 for sure. The blog will probably be like current forms of public transport for the next month. Few and far between and not terribly reliable.

Happy New year ~ Feliz año Nuevo and thank you for indulging me with my blogs again in 2022.

Boxing Day – Andalucia 2022

‘What are we doing today’ is a phrase you hear often in this house. ‘Are we going out. Or are you gardening.’ To be fair it could be asked in a number of places. Counties and continents.

Today it was Spain. Boxing Day. Not usually a bank holiday in Spain but as Christmas Day was a Sunday it is a holiday. Of sorts. A lot of places are open. First stop was the town. Morning coffee and churros with friends who happened to be passing. The intention was to head down to the coast to blow away the cobwebs with a walk along the prom. But as usual plans changed. A decision to walk the goat track between Cómpeta and Canillas. I just couldn’t be doing with a drive down and back up the wiggly road. Knowing we would be heading down the windey road later.

I’ve walked the goat track a few times. But I have never met a goat. There is evidence of the presence of goats. Underfoot and no smell. Interesting fact or not. I used to own a goat and win prizes. A golden Guernsey. Oh. And I had a flock of Llanwenog sheep. I digress but if you’ve read my blog before you know I do that often. A bit of a butterfly. Flit here and there.

But the goat track is a walking track between Cómpeta and Canillas. There are two Canillas’s. Canillas de Albeida ~ where the track ends up. And Canillas de Aceituno. Where it doesn’t. If you end up at the latter you’ve taken a wrong turn and walked for miles out of your way.

What with lockdowns and a bout of lazyitis I don’t recall there being the roped walkway when I was here last. But it does help when you need something to support you! Or stop you falling off the track.

There are some fabulous views on the walk. The coast. The mountains. The avocado plantations. That’s probably not what they are called but there are plenty of them on the walk. That and olive trees.

A friend asked if I ever walk in front of Ian. Wasn’t hard to answer to be fair. No. He will tell you without you asking that I have presented him with a photo book. All of the pictures are of him walking in front of me. What is interesting is that he can usually tell you where the photo was taken.

We had intended to walk halfway and then turn back. But madness prevailed and we continued to the end of the track. I’m glad we did. There was a lot to see.

Wild fires are not uncommon here and last year was no exception. You may have read in previous blogs < if you haven’t you are only looking at the pictures ~ that I’m paranoid that the roundabout that’s not a roundabout will catch fire. It’s a scrubby bit of land that needs a haircut annually. Has a fig tree and two scrappy almonds planted on it.

A lot of people have the wildfire app so that you can see where the fires are and also report any that you see. The area where one of the fires ~ well two as a second was in the same place not long after – is just on the track. It’s pretty eerie to see as it looks like something out of a zombie horror movie.

Helicopters are used to drop water bombs onto the fires and it has been known for them to collect water from private swimming pools. It’s both fascinating and worrying to see them flying over your house on the way to the fires. Last year the temperatures in Andalusia were bonkers. Into the 40’s with a severe drought. I was very happy when our banks were cleared.

To be fair the black and white photos give you more of a feel for the devastation.

You know when you walk further than planned. When really you could have done with a backpack full of goodies. Like chocolate. More chocolate and a hip flask. At one point that’s what I needed. But I didn’t complain. To be fair Ian was too far ahead to even hear me. Let alone be bothered. I think at that stage he has his mind on lunch. Mine was on finding a loo.

You know the wedding scene on Mamma Mia where they get married in the church at the top of the hill. That’s what it felt like when we got here. The end of the goat track and turn left. A beautiful church ~ Ermita de Santa Ana ~ a simple building of the 16th c built in the Mudejar style. I had to have a sit down and take in the views. Not because they were fabulous. They were. But because my legs were aching. I needed a drink. And Ian needed food. Don’t forget. We never intended to walk this far. Now we had to go back.

T

We headed down into the centre of the pueblo blanco and found a restaurant we hadn’t eaten in before ~ paella if you are asking.

But the day didn’t stop there. After a nap ~ at home. Not at the restaurant ~ we drove down the windey road to Nerja. More Christmas lights beckoned. like a magpie I was there. Sparkly lights. Music. Churros. And the Spanish sunset over the coast.

It’s Christmas. We have selfies today. That’s why I look so surprised. And it was at Ian’s suggestion.

Now you can ask. But I don’t have the answer. I have absolutely no idea what was going on. Remember. We are in Andalusia. On the coast. And we are surrounded by super hero’s. But even super hero’s get a wedgie.

So another day. More Christmas lights.

Can I tell you a secret. I’m going to anyway. There is one more light adventure. One that combines Christmas. Illuminations. And plants. Coming soon. Very soon.

Travels around Spain -Malaga Christmas

This is our 6th Christmas of having la casa Verano. Four of which we have spent here. I always question myself why we come here at Christmas. Then think as I’m sat on the terrace on Christmas Eve in 21* in shorts ( TMI) ~ the weather. But it’s not just the weather. No one is rushing to the shops to buy 10 weeks worth of food even though the shops are only closed for a day. It’s a bit more relaxed. Very family orientated and of course the big day here is 3 Kings. By which time strikes permitting we will be back in Blighty. .

But sat on the terrace I can hear the donkey braying across the valley. Maybe it’s Mary & Joseph arriving. We are off bearing gifts to an early get together but it won’t be gold Frankincense and myrrh. More like wine chocolates and flowers. No. Seriously. There is a donkey. I haven’t been drinking. Useless fact. My first 45rpm was Little Donkey by Nina and Frederick. That’s an admission and an age alert.

We have had 3 nights at the house ~ enough time to warm it up. Do a little shopping. Have coffee with friends. Then it’s time to deivw down the wiggly road again and head to Malaga. It’s only an hour away but we had decided to have an overnight away. A bit of shopping during the day and then the reason for going. The Malaga Christmas lights. Always spectacular and this year they are new. A new theme. New music. Led bulbs and shorter hours.

We had asked about parking at the hotel. Yes there is parking. But there may or may not be space. Come into the historical area. Ring the bell at the barrier and they will let you in. We have to advise the Town hall of your number plate otherwise you will be fined. If we are full you’ll have to go back out to the public car park. Thanks But no thanks. We got fined in Granada for going into the historical part! Once bitten once fined. So we didn’t. We found a car park. Parked and bobs your uncle. But I don’t have an uncle Bob. and in Spain it would make no sense. Tito Pablo maybe. Nice hotel. Soulless checkin. I know hospitality is having a hard time but reception is the face of the hotel. I won’t mention that they thought we were doing a runner when we left. Long story. Great location. Comfy beds. Quiet room but service could have been better.

First stop is always either Casa Aramda near the market or Churreria La Malagueña “the tejeringos of Malaga. Today was Aramda as the other was closing for lunch. Why Aranda. Churros of course. Always with sugar. Never with chocolate for me.

Someone said aren’t churros just churros. Nope. They taste different in different cafes and these are awesome. That’s why we keep coming back. We would have stopped by again in the evening but the queue was massive. I love churros. I loathe queuing.

The waitress told me that this coffee was a coffee Bon Bon. Sweet condensed milk with espresso coffee. Served in a glass so you can see the layers. Then stirred. Yes please I said ~ Ian said you know it’s very sweet. The waitress rolled her eyes as if to say ‘tourist’ but in a friendly way. Did I like it? Hell yes. Very sweet. But I’d have it again. One way of only have one coffee for sure. One is enough.

The main objective of the trip was to see the lights. They looked great during the day hung all along Calle Larios and we knew that they are lit at 6.30 and the music and lights shows are at 7, 8.30 and 10. And last about 7-10 minutes with 7 pieces of music. That’s good for my attention span. And migraines with flashing lights. Looking good during the. Day as well. The lights. Not me.

First a walk through the market. The most amazing produce available. Aisles of fish stalls. Meat. Vegetables, spices and dried fruits. It’s a foodies heaven. Whilst on the outside are great places to perch your bottom and eat.

I don’t know what half of the products are. But they look good. The tomato varieties are immense. The mushrooms look perfect. I could wander around for ages just people watching let alone wanting the food.

Let’s talk Padron peppers. Everyone says aren’t they great. Really lovely chargged small green peppers. Yes they are. But have you had the one in ten that’s spicy hot. Last time I ate here we got to almost the end. Then I thought my mouth was on fire. I had that one in 10. Didn’t help the friend I was with had hysterics laughing at me. This time I almost got to the end of mine. And stopped. I wasn’t going to risk the last few.

So.the lights. What’s the big deal. Oxford street and Regent street have lights. I saw them recently. And Carnaby street. The difference. Is that these are big. With music and attracts huge numbers into Malga just to see the light show. They are designed for Malaga and probably will stay for a few years before being sold off to another city. This years lights is a set of 16 “Angels” in Calle Larios with 32 illuminated pillars. And pretty spectacular they are too. There were 32 pillars. I didn’t count them.

The lights on their own are pretty spectacular but once the music starts you get that feel of Christmas. Set to music. 7 songs including the obligatory Feliz Navidad. The music played at three times during the evening.

There is also a light show on the side of the cathedral. That too is pretty amazing and children ( like me) will especially love the animations. There is music too. Again shows at 7. 8.30 and 10.

Malaga is a vastly underrated destination. There are fabulous museums. Beaches. Restaurants. Markets. One of my favourite museums is the museum of Cristal and glass. A must if you go. We didn’t this time but having been once a year for the last 5 I think I can wait a bit longer to go back.

The cathedral. The Bull ring ( for its architecture) Street art. The architecture. The Picasso museum. The Thyssen museum. The tapas. Flamenco.

I love these cities at night. A walk along the marina. The fabulous overhead cover spanning the length.

I think looking even better at night. in black and white.

The old and the new. Looking up from the marina to the Alcazaber and the covered walkway. I think the buildings are magical lit up at night tho one wonders with the current fuel prices just how long this will last. Spain was one of the first to have office blocks and shop fronts turn off their lights when not in use. They have three different charging periods during a 24hr period.

The view to the cathedral and the AC Marriott hotel alongside. We would have stayed there ~ the hotel not the cathedral ~ had the rate been better. Oh. And of they had availability.

Was it worth a trip down the mountain. It’s always worth it. We will be doing it again next week to see the light show at the botanical gardens which from photos I have seen looks magical.

Guess what. They will be photos.

A holiday within a holiday ~ Cordoba

Let me get something off my chest for starters. Spanish underground car parks. They give me the creeps. Not because they are scary. But because they scare me. What is it will pillars. These car parks weren’t built for todays modern cars. The spaces are too narrow. The pillars. Well they are everywhere. And the turning circles and ramps down. just don’t go there. That’s my whinge. I’ll go round and round looking for a nice space to drive in and out of ~ but not in the car park in Cordoba and I was t even driving in!

Friends were staying in Seville and we arranged to meet up when they visited Cordoba. Never ones to say no to a trip away we arranged to drive to cordoba and stay over for two nights and to meet up for supper. We are so well positioned in Competa. Granada is about 1:5 miles drive. Seville is about 3. Malaga 1 and Cordoba is 2hrs 20. We have done it as a day trip by car. I’ve done it by train from Malaga as a day trip. This time we decided to stay for two nights.

We managed to stay right next to the Mosque Cathedral ~ really central and easy to find. The hotel not the cathedral. That’s well signposted.

The Roman Bridge has been around since 1st. Century and the existing bridge is largely from 8thc. A lot of locations for Game of Thrones weee filmed in Spain and the majestic roman bridge was featured in series 5. Ian told me. He was a fan. I just watched bits when we happened to be in the same room. In the same house in the same country. But I also understand they also used CGI to make it look bigger. I think it looks pretty amazing as it is.

Córdoba Uber. No we didn’t try ~ but there are lots of them.

I have been to Cordoba three times before. This is visit number four to the Mosque cathedral. Almost as many times as I’ve visited The Alhambra in Granada. Both are stunning. But the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba) blows my mind. I think it’s the subtlety of the Mosque; it’s beautiful simplicity with the stunning architecture of its columns Against the bling bling of the cathedral. To have the two in one building is stunning. Spain has 49 UNESCO world Heritage sites and the Mosque Cathedral is one of them.

We visited at night ~ Saturday night its free entrance so why not. It’s a very different experience at night. The lighting is different as is the atmosphere. Oh. And did I say it was free.

I’d have loved to have heard the organ played. In the cathedral and Mosque I’m sure the acoustics would be amazing. Sat under a stunning ceiling. Stunning plasterwork.

The altar was typically grand as you would expect in a Catholic Church. As a vicar friend of mine one replied when I asked which service I should attend at the church where he was officiating ‘ come to the later one. It’s all bells and smells’. That sums me up. Our local vicar once said I was a a festival worshipper . He didn’t mean Glastonbury ~ he meant Christmas and Harvest festival.

The choir seats were a bit spooky. Each arm rest had a figure carved into it. Beautifully carved. All individual. But scary. The seats are carved mainly out of mahogany wood with a row of 30 upper seats and a row of 23 lower seats, all with these carvings.

At the end of the day the brass still needs polishing. I remember my mother getting the brasso out to polish the brass candlesticks and the knocker on the front door. I can smell it still. I remember it made your fingers black.

I would have thought I’d be used to the narrow Spanish streets after five years. But it never ceases to amaze me how narrow they are and how the cars and vans manoeuvre their way through. People have to stand in door ways like sentries. It’s my nightmare having to manoeuvre my way through these streets. Once in Sentil de las Bodegas I threatened to just get out of the car and get the hire company come and collect it. Just where I’d stopped preferably. I was breathing in as we drove through.

The main reason for the trip to Cordoba ~ although Ian and I never need an excuse for a road trip ~ was to meet up with friends who were travelling in Spain. Five us had worked together over the years and had been friends for over 35 years. Ian and Sarah trained together and are birthday twins. Sane day. Same month same year. Four of us were business partners. Four of us are partners. Confused. Don’t be. We know what’s going on and that’s all that counts. The hotel had recommended a restaurant for supper on the Sunday evening. I’m often dubious about hotel recommendations but this was spot on. Great food. Great atmosphere and great conversation. Don’t ask about the plates. It would take an age to explain.

Casa Pepe

Who doesn’t go on a bus tour when travelling in a new city. Ok. Not that new to us but it’s always worth the trip around the city. It helps get your bearings. If we hadn’t been on the bus we wouldn’t have seen this place and hopped off. The Palacio Viana. Is a fabulous Renaissances palace with 12 beautifil and very different patio gardens.

It was was the private residence of the 3rd Marquise of Viana until his death in 1980 and was bought by a Cordoba bank on his death. He died with no heirs.

The wheels on the bus

I love a view through a door in the garden ~ this one draws you in from one patio garden to the next. I love the idea of having the gardens like a series of rooms.

How do they get the plumbago to grow this large. Mine at La Casa is pretty poor. If it’s still alive. I need to check when I’m next there but I’d love for it to cover the garage wall like this.

I can’t imagine this going through the streets of Cordoba but it did. How they manoeuvred around the corners on these small often bumpy streets. I’d be happier being carried around in the smaller one.

There was a lot of wandering. A bit of a bizarre evening where we had booked supper at a restaurant which looked good. We arrived and were shown to a table. A table where you needed a lift to get on the chairs and once you’d managed it you immediately started slipping off. We asked to move. We were considering moving restaurants ~ loud music was coming from the roof top terrace. By loud I mean booming. We were the oldest swingers in town.

We were seated in an alcove. Great table. Tucked away in a corner. The best table for people watching. A huge mirror just in view where the young and trendy had camera phones in hand probably for Instagram or tick toc and were taking their selfies as they passed. Unaware we were watching. I never realised the effort you should put into a pose for these photos. Mine are selfie snaps and not that often. Flicks of the hair. One foot forward. Stand kinda sideways. I might try it. Except my pout would be a gurn and my arthritic hip would give out and I’d ultimately fall over. But the service was excellent. The food really good and the complimentary G& T at the end more than generous in size. The entertainment perfect.

We didn’t do the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos this time. We tried on the Saturday night. Another free entry but the queue for the queue was huge and despite the British love of queuing , 10pm on a Saturday night was not for me. Oh. And it’s closed on a Monday. We have been before and I’m not sure what the gardens would have been like. It’s been a long hot dry summer in Spain. As they used to say on Blue Peter ( ask your parents if you are young) here’s one I made earlier. On a previous visit. And not with sticky backed plastic and a squeezey bottle.

We have another Spanish adventure lined up. Next stop Bilbao. One thing is guaranteed. There will be pictures. Maybe a blog. But definitely pictures.

Hello London

Old London Town. I ran away to London ( sort of) on 1st February 1982 with the intention of maybe staying a year or two. I hated it. I’d taken a promotion and moved to the big smoke knowing very few people. At first I stayed in Brixton with an actor friend who I’d met in Cardiff who was in the London stage production of The Sound of Music. Now you know why I can sing ‘High on a hill’ ‘climb every mountain’ ‘I am sixteen going on seventeen.’ Though the latter now has to be ‘ I am sixty going on seventy.’

London was expensive. Money was tight so I ended up walking a lot. By walking everywhere in central London I found my bearings. I knew how to get from A to B and trust me the underground isn’t always the fastest. The number of people who get on the tube at Covent Garden to go to Leicester Square is bonkers. By the time you walk down the stairs at Covent Garden you are in Leicester Square. But I walked. And walked and over time I grew to love it. London. Not walking.

Over the years I grew lazy and walked less but one of the things to come out of the pandemic is that we are walking more. Yes. I get the train into town. It’s either 12 mins to Victoria or 16 to London Bridge. From either of these two stations you can get almost anywhere by foot. Maybe a short bus ride too. These last few days I’ve walked over 20 miles. That’s not my usual but it’s more frequent than say in 2019.

So back in London for dental appointments this week meant I could wander from Victoria to Oxford Street and back to Charing Cross via Soho taking in some familiar and favourite places on the way. Some I have left out. Why? Because. There’s always another day.

We are fortunate to live near to two stations. Peckham Rye and Denmark Hill. Both are within easy walking distance. You just have to make the decision as you get to the top of the road whether you turn left. Or turn tight. This week it was a left turn and I was happy to see that they had the flags out at Victoria for my arrival. Whilst it should I have been the Welsh Dragon I’ll accept what I get. After all I have now lived in London longer than in my birth place.

I love central London as the evening light changes especially when it’s not busy and especially after the rain with wet roads and pavements as it gives you better photo opportunities. Some of the buildings are lit. The lights of the cars and traffic lights sparkle. And I look better at dusk. Some say even better in the dark.

I’m not a huge fan of Christmas. But I love the run up and the decorations. These days house decorations are few. We have spent two out of four in Spain where I do add a bit of glitter and decoration but as we are only there for a short while it’s minimal. Gone are the days of real trees and dropping pine needles.

The stores do a great job of their windows especially at Christmas. The window dressers ~ that’s a phrase I haven’t used in decades not since a friend of mine was a window dresser for Jaeger. Too old for me then ~ the clothes not The window dresser ~ too expensive now. Though I note that Marks & Spencer are now stocking Jaeger. I think it’s the lights and the sparkle that attract me. To the shops not the clothes. Selfridges who do not sell fridges by the way do a great job. John Lewis do too.

I love the run up to Christmas But it slightly scares me at the beginning of November ~ I suspect Santa’s grotto has been opened for weeks. This is Selfridges but I didn’t go inside at this stage. I didn’t have my list for Santa. I once dressed up as Santa for our team xmas lunch to hand out the secret Santa presents. Maybe a job for the season. Let me think about it. No. Never. Have I told you I’m retired. I suspect a lot.

I’m not a huge fan of Christmas. These days house decorations are few. We have spent two out of four in Spain where I do add a bit of glitter and decoration but as we are only there for a short while it’s minimal. I still like Christmas cards and I’d say I’m like my mother which terrifies me. Each Christmas as she got older I’d help her with the cards. I use to say just give me the cards. I’ll write them. No no she’d reply. I need to see which card goes to who. You can’t send that one to X. It doesn’t have a nice verse in it. Mum. All it needs is Happy Christmas. No no. That’s the wrong card for your uncle and Aunt. Ok. Whose this one for. Oh. That’s for Andrew and Ian whilst then laughing as she realised what she’d said. To be fair. I’m the same. I spend ages looking for the right cards. Or having some printed.

John Lewis ineriotr

After the dentist it was John Lewis. Actually the 4th floor and their Christmas shop. Christmas trees. Lights of all shape colour and size. Talk about tinsel. Enough for everyone. Except me. I hated tinsel in the 1970’s and I still do though it’s not the thin old stuff we used to have. The choice of trees was mesmerising. The wall of lights dazzling. Remember getting the lights out of the loft and having to check every bulb because if one didn’t work the whole lot didn’t. Days when you could replace a bulb instead of having to replace a whole string. Growing up there were only 3 modes. On. Off and flashing. The battery ones we use on the standard bays in London have numerous. We use two. On and off.

I thought the Regent Street lights would have been on by now but no. It looks like the same lights as in 2019 & 2020 but hey. We have been in a rather strange place. The pavements have been widened. Lockdown surely hasn’t meant we have all been eating more. No. It’s for social distancing which I suspect many of us will continue to do for the foreseeable future. The Council in their wisdom has made it harder for vehicles in central London. To make the air cleaner. I’m not sure it works as Park Lane and often Regent Street is chocka bloc with stationary traffic and queues. With engines running.

Liberty London. Such a beauty both outside and in. It took me decades to have the confidence to venture in but once done you realise even if you aren’t buying it’s a joy to see inside. The Christmas shop is always amazing with an incredible selection of baubles glitter and glitz. Things you never know you needed. Least of all wanted. Most you can’t afford.

Hello Carnaby Street ~ a street made famous in the 1960,s for its fashion and which still has a fair number of individual ‘boutiques’ dotted along. Always well decorated. Always busy with shoppers and sight seekers. Always a cut through for me heading from Oxford street via Regent street down to the Strand. The little streets off it are interesting too. I often take a little detour through to Berwick Street. Just because I can. We used to go to Berwick Street market on a Saturday to buy our fruit and veg but the market is now much reduced. We also used to meet our friend Katherine who shared a flat with Ian, when she was shopping for material in Berwick street for her sewing adventures.

One of the shops that caught my eye ~ yes I admit it was Dorothy’s red slippers. We all know friends of Dorothy don’t we? But look at them all. This was a fashion shop and these were the tame ones. I once went to a 70’s fancy dress and needed platform shoes to go with the flares. A colleague and I went to a shop in Poplar market and I picked up a pair of platforms and asked for them in my size. Um. ‘Excuse me you do know they are ladies shoes ‘ ‘Oh yes’ I replied. ‘I need them for Friday’. ‘How are you going to walk in those’ my colleague asked. It’s easy I said. I had worse in the 70’s. Just ask my Dad. He was less than impressed. I never fell off them then either. I think I may be wearing platforms here. Thankfully you can’t see. I still love a polo neck though. These days they are a boon in hiding multiple chins. The fashion today is to wear your mask under your chin. It has the same effect.

Onwards through one of my favourite areas. SOHO. Back in the 80’s when I first moved to London it was a very different place. But it’s always been fabulous. Full of amazing places. Some now gone others stood the test of time. Places like Stockpot ~ the great cheap and cheerful go to cafe. There was another at Leicester Square and one on the Kings Road. My favourite dessert was jelly and cream. Melati restaurant where I first went with Ian after a works leaving party and called a friend from the phone box close by to ask if I was doing the right thing. Both have gone now ~ the restaurant and the phone box. Not Ian and the friend. That was 30 years ago. That’s scary. You could sit in the restaurant and watch a series of visitors to the apartments opposite. It was like traffic lights. Tho the lights were stuck on red with a lot of models living in the area. Things changed through the late 80’s and 90’s with the pink pound becoming more and more evident in the area.

Walking through Soho it’s always great to see old favourites. Lina Stores a great deli. My other favourite deli is on Old Compton Street. Il Camissia where we would buy fresh pasta on a Saturday. Still there but the shutters were down ~ not as good a photo opportunity as Lina Stores. But it’s a fabulous place. Small but full of delights.

The Algerian Coffee stores a wonderful shop full of a huge variety of coffee beans and all paraphernalia for coffee making along with an amazing array of loose teas. I remember buying Jamaica Blue mountain coffee there for the first time. I love how these independents have continued in spite of the high rents and rates they have to endure and where shop fronts haven’t changed in decades.

I have been going to Maison Bertaux since 1982. Nor regularly but whenever we are in town and passing by. Thankfully it has survived lockdown. Opened in 1871 (no. I wasn’t at the opening) it is the oldest patisserie in London. It’s cakes are amazing and I love sitting on the pavement tables eating a big fat cream eclair drinking tea whilst watching the world and the Soho characters go by. Next to Maison Bertaux is the Coach and Houses a grade 2 listed pub which had an interesting history. I admit I’ve walked past for 40 years. https://www.coachandhorsessoho.pub/history

When I first moved to London it was much cheaper to go to the theatre. Especially if you were friends with a couple of box office managers who would phone you to say that a particular theatre was ‘papering” the house and did I want some tickets. Papering the house meant that the show hadn’t sold out so there were seats to fill. Or I regularly used the half price ticket booth in Leicester Square. I was a regular theatre goer and there is a box full of old programmes in the attic along with theatre flyers. The Palace Theatre where I first saw Les Miserables in about 1987 which now houses the long running Harry Potter play. Just one of the many theatres on the walk to Charing Cross.

Into Covent Garden past Seven dials where back in the 80’s Neals yard was a favourite. Not today though as it’s become a bit more commercialised. The Tea House in Covent Garden was a favourite place for me to buy Ceylon orange pekoe loose leaf tea. I can’t remember how or why but it was probably a phase. I went through a few of those apparently. But the range of teas was amazing as were the array of teapots and associated bits and pieces for tea making. Today I make do with a teabag or two.

Here stands my brothers favourite pub in London. When he visited it was where we would meet him and his friends to make the way home.

Covent Garden market once the major fruit and veg market lit up for Christmas. Not as busy as usual but still pretty lovely. Lights. Christmas tree. Fire eating entertainer it has it all as well as the traders in the old apple market.

Final pic is The Punch & Judy. Amother Covent Garden pub in the 80’s to meet friends up in town for the day. Easy to find. Downstairs outside space and close enough to Sal to get the No 12 bus home.