In My experience you wait ages for a bus and then two or three come and once. Also in my experience I have nothing to say ( don’t !) for a while then I do. Sadly my experience with public transport has changed. I have had to hand back my old f***s pass as we have moved out of London. That hurts. But I have applied for my new bus pass which will just cover buses and but not tubes and local trains.
After an absence of 6 months we returned to Spain. I’ve already mentioned the joy of the return to the house and garden. But the visit wasn’t all garden and village life.
The Alhambra from the other side
When we first bought Casa Verano every visitor wanted to go to The Alhambra. 1.5 hours away. In the first year I went 6 times and was so familiar with it that it was a standing joke. I could be a tour guide. Except my Spanish would let me down.
Sadly we couldn’t get tickets this trip ~ so instead we had a day out in Granada itself. I always thought that the Costas were all Sand sea and sangria but trust me. There’s more to them than that. Malaga is a very underrated city with plenty of culture and foodie delights.
Granada is the same. The best thing is that we have the parking sussed. Parking in Spanish cities can be trying. Generally the underground car parks aren’t built for larger modern vehicles. I won’t mention the time I parked in Malaga and couldn’t find the car. Thats history. But in Granada we have found a favourite just 5 mins off the motorway. Large. Easy to find and next to a landmark.
Monasterio San Jerónimo
The parking is just close to the Monasatario san jeronimo ~ a Román Catholic monastery with an interesting history. A lovely church and two cloisters quietly tucked behind some gates it is a hidden gem, and never busy.
Steps to the altar All that glitters
Despite my dodgy back and having to use a walking stick I managed to get around Granada pretty well. With a few coffee and cake stops thrown in obviously.
Walking uphill in the narrow cobbled streets was easier than on the flat which was a bit of a surprise. We had watched an episode of Michael Portillo travelling around Spain earlier in the week and he had visited Granada. In the episode he visited a bakery where they made a cake ~ which was nicknamed the popes hat ~ the pionono.
I had never seen them before but we happened to stop at a modern cafe and there they were! Not the ones he made ~ he’d admit he wasn’t that good or quick. They were delicious.
Pionono
In Malaga we have seen the farton which I haven’t tried largely because my childish humour stops me asking for them. It’s a long sweet elongated pastry, which I’ll try when we are next in Malaga but I’ve just read it hails from Valancia. One of my favourite places to visit in Spain.
There is so much that is stylish about European cities. Even the street lights. Beats the glow from ours. How I hate the LED’s. We have just one in the hamlet. One too many for me.
Street life
A quick visit to the cathedral ~ where like most other cultural sites you exit through the gift shop.
But it’s quite a magnificent cathedral with not one but two identical organs opposite each other. Reminded me of the church in Camberwell which once a month had organ karaoke. The sound from these two would be awesome.
Cathedral Granada
The streets of Granada
Spanish health and safety Colours
So it wasn’t all gardening. We did have a trip or two to Nerja. When we first had the house I didn’t particular like Nerja but times have changed. Especially if I want a pizza. Yes. I also like pineapple on pizza. Don’t judge me !
I’d never heard of Nerja but then again I’d never heard of Competa until March 2017. But speaking to an old colleague at the time I mentioned Nerja ~ ‘oh we went there on our honeymoon’ which was 40 years before. Then to an old neighbour from Somerset ~ ‘oh we have been going there for years’. Last to the party !
Nerja I want that cave house Balcón de Europe
A trip to Algarrobo for lunch. Algarrobo is down the wiggly road to the coast approx 15 miles away. A long beach with a long promenade dotted with plenty of places to eat. Down To Lidl and Mercadona and the occasional walk along the long promenade. But last year on the walk we stopped at a chiringuito we had walked past many times ~ and have been back numerous times since. Great food. Awesome service with sea views.
View from lunch
Beach baby
Walk to the car
But we needed to be back in Somerset for April and May. It is tulip time after all.
You have to love a cheesey ear worm. Y viva España was one from the “70’s. I remember my mother singing along to it in the kitchen “ oh this year we are off to sunny Spain; Y Viva España’, Sorry not sorry if you remember it and you are now signing it all day. But. We are off to sunny Spain. But that’s nothing new for us really. Not these days..
Barcelona. Of course we are arrive at the airport early. We always do ~ but it’s a reminder today how little I miss commuter travel. It’s been going on 8 years since I did the commute and it’s one of the things I really don’t miss. Controversial I know but one of my pet hates are people putting on their make up on a packed overground train with arms and elbows going everywhere whilst they do it. I have never lathered my face , whipped out my razor and shaved on my commute. But as usual I digress. Enough of my irritations. There are many.
Travel brings out a lot. People stuffing cases into the overhead lockers irrespective of what’s already in there. Trying to squeeze an oversized case and not succeeding. We try to travel with as little as possible these days but it only works if we are heading up the mountain. But a 45 minute delay sitting on the tarmac doesn’t help but a good flight.
It’s been a while since we were in Barcelona. I first came 32 years PI ( pre Ian) when there was no protective circle around the Basilica and I can’t remember whether we had to pay to enter. I remember virtually climbing a wall and I am sure no roof. There is no fear of that these days. High security and arthritis stops that. And the fear I couldn’t get down.
Ian and air came here about 15 or so years ago. But then the queues were hideous and we hadn’t booked. So we didn’t go in. This time we have booked a tour guide and tickets so we are better organised. I’ll say it about this building what I always say about Stonehenge. It will be nice when it’s finished. Though this one will be.
So we are heading back tomorrow for a tour.
I’m sure these guys could tell a story or two. It looks like they are gentlemen of a certain age who will have seen the changes to the city. The amount of travellers to see thus Gaudi influence. The building. The influx of AIRBNB. But for now their concentration is on other things. Boules. And friendships.
But first the important Tapas and a walk around the Familia Sagrada to see the one light on the top which is illuminated daily with some of the stained glass lit as well. And an early night ready for three days of sightseeing.
The security and street lights are too bright to get a good idea of what it looks,like at night but Tomorrow is another day.
Another day. Another day of sightseeing carefully crafted by Ian. I just turn up and go. Today we have done it again. Dressed like twins. Almost the same and not on purpose. Both have dark jeans. I’ve got a maroon polo shirt. Him a maroon T-shirt. Both have either a navy or black round neck jumpers. Too late to change. But believe me it’s not planned.
So we made it into the Sagrada Familia. The queue was long and everyone had tickets as all tickets must be bought online. Easier for them but an issue for those still without the technology. Security checks at the door. No hats inside. No swimming costumes or short shorts. A reminder that it’s not a tourist attraction. First and foremost it’s a place of worship. Tick on all of them. A little time before we met our guide.
Ian’s first comment was that it reminded him of the set from Lord of the Rings films. Especially Rivendell the home of the elves. He should know. He’s probably watched the film a trillion times. Interesting as Gaudi’s concepts for the inside of the Sagrada Familia was one of a forest. the tree columns. I’ll have to go back and watch the film and take note.
To be fair I wasn’t expecting to have my breath taken away. By the cathedral. Not the tour guide. But the scale, the detailing and the pure majesty is breathtaking. Utterly breathtaking. So different to the previous visit. The first stone was laid in 1882, the building was consecrated by the Pope in 2010 and still remains unfinished. For now. Plans are afoot to finish it in two stages but additional time was needed due to delays with the Covid pandemic.
We don’t usually have a tour guide but this was a small group and he was amazing. Pointed out little details that we would have missed. A history of the building works and of Gaudi. Right up until his untimely death when he was knocked over by a tram.
How some of the carvings depict the architects that followed Gaudi : The faces of some of the children are Japanese. How another was finished not long before the architect died and is engraved with a C and the face is his. The architect. Not Gaudi,s.
I love the texture and shape of these stairs. To look at. When we stayed in Cordoba in 2018 the hotel we stayed in had a similar design which I loved. But I’m not a fan of using stairs like this ~ a tale of which will follow.
The light from the stained glass is stunning and changes as the light increases and decreases as the sun moves around the building.
The columns are massive and are a mix of sandstone and some red columns using imported materials from Iran ~ it’s made of porphyry. When polished they are highly shined but for the most part they are left unpolished. The acoustics from the organ is fabulous. The height of the columns immense. The design was to make it feel like a forest. The columns are the trees. And are not dead straight.
The colours from the stained glass are beautiful and very varied throughout. I love a bit of stained glass ~ to be fair I like glass. The windows have names of Saints and shrines from all over the world written on them. Not that I could read them from that distance. My eye sight may be food but not that good.
The Canopy over the altar with a brass crucifix is fabulous and very different from the figures you see outside. Look at Jesus head on this one and compare it with the one on the outside. This one is what you would expect. The one outside I feel is so amazing.
The Passion façade was built from Gaudi designed and feature Jesus, Herod and Peter amongst others depicting the crucifixion. They are i loves these figures for their stark angular shapes. Jesus head looks like a book and it said that it is to resemble the bible. These are just a few of the structures. There are so many on the building which could be a whole blog in itself.
Ian had booked a viewing from one of the towers. They are two which you can go up and you are allocated which one when you buy the ticket. Ian’s face was a sight when we entered the lift to be told that the lift is taking us up and then there are steps to come down the other side. He wasn’t worried for himself but he remembered an incident in Toledo in 2018 when we had to come down a spiral staircase. Too late. We were at the top. Amazing views across Barcelona. Views of some of the decorations on the towers. The current work being done on some of the towers. Then the descent. I was fine for a while. Spiral stairs with walls either side. I could take my time. Slowly. Then we got to the bit where there was a rail. But nothing the other side to hold onto. Don’t ask me why it’s a problem. It just is. Ian took my camera. My man bag. I took deep breaths. 500/600 steps later I was down. Literally. I had to sit down. Was it worth it? I’ll tell you when my is back recovers my nerves are calmer and my knees stop shaking.
Gausi designed and opened a school for his workers children and sometimes for the children of the local area. A lovely building with a wavy roof. Was a very different but lovely build against the magnificent gothic and art deco designs alongside it.
Tour over and a bit of a recharge it was odd to be at Las Ramblas. Apparently we stayed just off there when Ian and I were last here. I can’t remember a thing about the hotel but do remember bits of the trip. We must have been here in high season last time as I do remember the Ramblas being busier. This is one of the side streets off the ramblas which goes on forever.
Another walk down to look at the Gaudi buildings. We have been inside previously so could just stand and stare at the facade from outside and to be honest the entry price had increased hugely since we were last here. Hordes of students hogging the pavements waiting to go in. But I love this facade. It’s beautiful and simple all together. The balconies look like little masks for a masked ball.
Next on the agenda is Park Güell, one of Gaudi’s most notable creations in Barcelona. And a visit to Casa Vicens another Gaudiq masterpiece neither of which I have seen before.
But I think todays walking has been enough.
nearly 19,000 steps. 55 floors and just over 8 miles. No wonder I need a lie down.
It’s been just over three years since our last visit. How can that happen. I know time flys when you are having fun but three whole years? But then again this year will see me celebrate 8 years of retirement. I know. I must have retired early. Or I hide my age well. It was the former. Remember. People said I’d be bored. What on earth would I do. I still don’t know the answer. As usual I digress.
We have decided on Ian’s suggestion to travel via a different city on our way to La casa for a number of trips. A bit like bogof ~ buy one get one free. Except it’s not. The first trip for 2023 is back to Valencia for a few days before we head home to Cómpeta. We also decided on an airport stay overnight to beat travel difficulties with rail strikes.
So a hotel was booked. A room on the 12th floor with runway views. Yes. Runways views. Perfecto for the plane spotter which I’m not. But great to see the airport. The slight worry was the description of the room facilities on a major booking site. King size bed. ✔️ the standard facilities. But rather alarmingly it stated private bathroom and toilet paper. The first is a must for me. I may be an oversharer in many areas but bathrooms isn’t one of them. Toilet paper ~ I know during the pandemic there was panic buying but surely this is a given. I’m happy to report that the well known hotel chain had both.
We don’t usually fly from Heathrow. For us living south of the river it’s a pain to get to but the opening of the Elizabeth line has made it a bit easier. A tube line which is a pleasure to travel on as well. Light. Airy. And not too packed. I usually board the flight and shove in my ear pods and sleep ready for the walking I know that we will do when we arrive.
I was a little worried when listening to the flight attendant when she mentioned life jackets under the seats to see the man in the opposite aisle checking that his was there. I have never done that! Ever. Though it does remind me to check that the yellow vest and red triangle is in the car when we pick it up in Malaga next week.
I’m still wearing masks. It’s like a comfiest blanket for me and whilst many will say that it makes no difference, for me I’m happier wearing it in large gatherings or on public transport. I see a number of immune suppressant people and I feel more comfortable for them if I do.
In 2019 we stayed in a great apartment in the Ruzafa district in Valencia. Three years later we are back and it is just as we remembered it. Great hosts to meet us and a lovely clean bright and welcoming apartment. Ian is great at finding these and we have places lined up for Barcelona, Lisbon and Porto for the next few months.
Despite only arriving mid afternoon we don’t let the grass grow under our feet. Ian was happy after a chat with the hosts who complimented him on his Spanish ~ his is so much better than mine. He has conversations. I have sentences. He says I hear it and understand it and read it but putting my brain through to my voice is still a problem. Some will say it’s always been a problem. I disagree. Sometimes I speak and my mother comes out. It’s just a shame she wasn’t fluent in Spanish.
Ian and a stranger Gorgeous streets
The side streets are narrow and the buildings colourful ~ though there are many fine buildings still ripe for development. When we were here in December 2019 it was wet. Biblical rain. Today we arrived in thermal vests and thick coats ~ not just those to be fair , but in the sun it was 20*. Cooler in the shade but still a tad warmer than London and warmer than our next destination.
Spain still has many things that we are losing in the Uk. Small shops. Independent artisan shops like this fabulous hand painted hat shop we passed on our walk into the centre.
Fabulous painted hats
Berets always remind me of two friends. People I have been friends with for decades. One Cate ~ who i first met back in 1980 when she was appearing at the Cardiff New theatre and who is the reason I have lived in the same street in London for the last 30 years | we became next door neighbours in London after she told me that a flat was for sale next door ~ who when we met was wearing a blue beret~ and my antique dealer friend Shirley who we met 30’years ago who is now in France. It’s funny how certain things remind you of people for ever.
The little shop www.elpintordesombreros.com and the hats are fabulous. We do have lots of artisan creators in the uk but many are on line only or at many of the wonderful fairs. Premises costs are too expensive.
It’s the same for restaurants ~ the city is full of small good quality eating places and not littered with chains. Yes there are the burger bars and the like but even their shop frontages look a bit more subdued. The weather is also better suited to outdoor seating which helps with smaller premises.
I remembered this wig shop from our last visit though I’m not tempted for either the fake moustache of the wig. I remember what I looked like with a moustache and it’s not coming back. I don’t want more hair on my lip than I have on my head. Oh. And I remembering because we walked past. Not because of a visit.
A walk into the centre to see familiar landmarks to visit this trip. The central market. The silk exchange. Just a mooch through the small colourful streets.
The joy of staying in an apartment is that you have a choice. Do you eat out. Or in. On the first night after arriving mid afternoon sometimes it’s just nice to grab something to eat indoors ~ we needed to soma bit of shopping anyway. We almost eaten all of the mandarins that the hosts has left us anyway! It also meant we could go for a good early evening wander ~ whilst it was dry and big too cold.
I love cities at night. Not for the night life these days ~ those days have long gone. But at night most European cities know how to showcase their architecture with good lighting. Take the train station close by timwheee we are staying. A beautiful but I’d valenciano Arg decor. Opened in 1916 and is simply like a step back in time. A fabulous entrance. Amazing ticket hall and booths. And trains that are running.
The entrance The ticket booths. Still open. The beautiful room off the rocket hall The working clock Indulge my current black and white obsession
It’s funny how some things are familiar even after only one visit. It was easy to find out bearings. There were one or two places we didn’t get to see last time. Which we will this. Some we saw during the day which we will visit at night. The list is endless
He’s still in the same position he was in back in 2019. Poor bloke must be freezing sitting in that water all the time. Talk about soggy bottom.
The colourful fountains on our walk. I thought they were lit just for the Christmas celebrations when we were last here. Obviously not!
The markets in Spanish towns are amazing. The variety of fresh produce is fantastic with locally grown vegetables freshly caught fish and a whole myriad of spices herbs and cheeses to tempt your culinary delights. The above is the central market. We visited a smaller local market when we went for a paella class which I preferred. Smaller yes but the chef who we walked around with knew all the stall holders ~ and it looked like he knows most of the shoppers in the market! explained that the fishmongers were closed on a Monday as there are no catches over the weekend. Obvious really , you want the freshest of fish. His mantra for a good paella. Good fresh seasonal produce to add to the rice.
Back to the restaurant as a group of six to jointly prepare and cook a fabulous lunch. A really interesting group. A guy from Korea. Another from Berlin a journalist who liked yoga and swing dancing. A girl from Manchester who was looking to get a digital nomad visa to teach English and a girl from the Ukraine who was working abroad pre the start of the war. And us. Old enough to be their grandfathers. It made for sn interesting chat over lunch.
We missed this last time and I remember why. The queue. It was massive and one thing we don’t do is queue. It eats into vital time when you have a timeframe on a short break. St Nicolas a Roman Catholic parish church. An absolutely stunning building in gothic style with more fabulous colours and more gilt than I have seen in a long time. Absolutely stunning. And guess what. No queue when we arrived. And a massive one when we left. Bonus.
It also has some stunning stained glass windows.
I hate steps. Not Steps as in 5.6.7.8 but climbing steps. To be fair it’s the coming down that kills me. So we climbed most of the way up the Torres but not all the way. But it is worth visiting unless you have an arthritic hip a fear of heights and a feeling of falling when descending steps. I’m really selling myself again.
We visited the Silk Exchange in 2019 and loved it. This time I loved it more. the architecture. The tiles. The light. It was magical. How I’d love a house with those tiles. I’d also love a room as big to take them. But not the door. Imagine the draught you’d get when opening the door for the Amazon deliveries.
The majesty of columns. Talk shapely curvy ~ and difficult to get a clear view. What you don’t see is that there are half a dozen people hiding behind the columns.
From a distance
I stood for what seemed like ages to get a clear view and then……. But it does make a good photo even if I say it myself!
The La Lonja (The Silk Exchange) is a Unesco World Heritage site with the first stone laid in 1492. And is definitely worth a visit or two.
Ian is great at organising these trips and finding the Airbnb. But the next photo isn’t one of them. Thankfully. It’s one of the bedrooms in El Museo Nacional de Ceramica y de las Artes Suntuarias Gonzalez Marti~ long title. We called it the Ceramics museum. ‘ Housed in the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas, it was founded on 7 February 1947, from the donation of Manuel González Martí’s ceramics collection. Seven years later, once the restoration of the palace was completed, the museum opened to the public on 18 June 1954.’
It is stunning and even better it was free entry on the day we went. I have to say that there are some irritating people wanting the perfect photograph. Not me although I am irritating. Three people were on the grand staircase going up to the first floor. Wanting the perfect Instagramable ( is that a word) photo. One at the bottom of the stairs. Two at the top. Posing. One leg one way. Pouting. Then suddenly telling someone off for interrupting their photo shoot and wanting to go up the stairs. We were about to go up too. What they didn’t realise was they told off one of the officials. Did they care. Not a bit. I was hoping they would have been shown the door.
The red room is well. Very red with a gorgeous chandelier and red chairs. The white room very calm with a grand piano a harp and some what looked like vintage guitars but they would have had a more interesting name.
I’ll admit to a better photo of this room back in 2019. But it wasn’t a Sunday that day and wasn’t as busy. In Valencia they wrap rope around the chairs and sofas to stop you sitting down. In the UK we are less subtle. We place something prickly to make sure you don’t even try !
I can’t imagine this getting through the narrow streets of Valencia and the occupants must have needed padded pantaloons to protect you from bottom bumps.
I had a fascination for the painted metal shutters of the garages and shops. These are just a few showing that grey roller shutters don’t need to be boring. Ever.
Doesn’t everyone dress up for a stroll around the street market?
Valencia is a city of many styles. The historic area. The central area. The trendy neighbourhoods.- one where we were staying Ruzafa. Then there is the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias. A sight that takes your breath away as you approach it and the second visit didn’t dilute the experience. An episode of Dr Who was filmed here and it’s like being in a sci fi movie. I suspect it’s a big like marmite. I hate marmite. I love this. It feels so light. Bright. Busy but not packed.
The Spanish love a fiesta. Or two. The year is littered with fiestas for everything. In Cómpeta we have one for the wine. One for the chestnuts. The annual Feria. Coming up in Valencia is The Fallas. Every year there are fireworks. Parades and hundreds of large paper mache figures made. And all but two are burnt on the last day of the festival. Two are saved by a public vote and the city has kept two from each Fallas since 1938. The 2023 exhibition is fabulous , spooky and bonkers. At times all three ~ we loved it.
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These are just a few. There were hundreds. There is also a children’s section where the figures are smaller. With more clothes as well.
It was a full on four days but a fabulous trip and a great idea of Ian’s to travel to La Casa via another Spanish destination. Now we are heading to Malaga and that drive up the wiggly road. I’d like to say it will be relaxing after all that walking. I suspect not.
It’s been a glorious Christmas and New year. We missed being in Spain for Xmas 2021 and this year even the weather was kind. Lovely warm days. Cooler nights. Broken heating in parts but a lovely clean chimney so the fire burned even brighter.
The sunsets at this time of the year are pretty spectacular and this year they didn’t disappoint. Many a night I’d suddenly jump out of the chair ( not literally ~ not with my dodgy hip) to go and stand on the terrace and watch the sun go down. This is our 6th December on the mountain and I never get tired of the sunsets. But then again very little tires me from our Spanish adventure.
But the trip wasn’t all festivals lights and food. Almost. But not quite. I’m still not back to being great in crowded spaces so our festivities were pretty low key as most of them are for us these days. small groups of friends for supper or coffees ( and the obligatory cakes) outdoors. Oh. And the garden. There’s always work to be done in the garden. We do have help ~ there are so many plants which I still am unsure about. The pruning the feeding. The timing of both. But our help knows and appears at the right times to do what is required.
Two weeks before we arrived there had been rain. A lot of it but still not enough. We still don’t have mains water every day out in the campo. . But enough to make the countryside look green again. There was also the signal of a new season. On 1 January we noticed that there was a lot of smoke hanging over the Valley. No. Not a new pope but the signal of a new season where bonfires were officially allowed. I’d forgotten that there are strict rules on the months you can and cannot have a bonfire. My rule is never in our garden. Call it paranoia which is correct but I’m terrified of a lone spark setting the campo alight.
Things are starting to wake up. The first freesia are flowering along the path and there are many more in various stages to continue. The first two were picked and given to a neighbour. Sadly last year we lost a dear friend, his wife who together with her husband checked the house for us during the year we were unable to travel and who would water the garden ifit needed it. I’ve said it before. Good friends are a joy but good neighbours are awesome. When we weren’t at the house she would pick any flowers ~ after my constant nagging at first ~ and freesias were her favourite. So it was appropriate that the first of this season went to her house.
Hiding in amongst various pots or rather languishing there was a surprise. I had thought the colocasia mojito which has been bought and paid for at Vivero Florena before one of the lockdowns and stayed there for months and months had died. It came home when we could return and I had thought it was a another casualty of the drought and severe heat. But I move the pots around. A lot ~ my late sister did the same with furniture ~ and I found that the plant hadn’t died and it’s gorgeous silky leaves were again growing. Fingers crossed it continues.
Another surprise was on the central border. These Carpobrotusedulis were straggly. Dry and almost non existent over the last few years. But I cut ( hacked) them back last year and thought if they recover they stay. If they don’t they go. It looks like they listened and hopefully we will get those glorious pink flowers again this year. Native to South Africa it must have liked last years extreme heat and drought. Also known as sour fig, or ice plant. We also have a large clump on the rear bank which to be honest I largely ignored this visit. The bank. Not just the clump.
Instructions have been left for the almonds to be pruned and I’ve just realised I haven’t mentioned the fig. But I did mention the bottlebrush which needs a good tidy up.
This is a flower from two or three years ago. The problem with not being at the house permanently is we often miss what is flowering. Although we do get sent photos. Seeing how well these are doing I must get some more or split these for the dry bank at the front of the house.
There is an ever increasing bed of these at the side of the house. I always think they are in the way out as the lower parts go dry and crusty. But they never cease to amaze me by throwing up their orange tall flowers. Childish I know but I help saying Aloe Aloe when I pass. But I am. and I do. Nobody is listening anyway.
I love the Strelitzia. Some years we see them. Some we don’t. This one is in full flower and there are eight more flower spikes dotted around the garden in various stages of growth. We will this year at least see some. The ones I want to flower the most this year are the strelitzia Nicolai. They are very tall plants with flowers high up. Blue/black and white flowers. Someone once said you should look up as you walk around London. The upper parts of the buildings are more interesting. Well the same can be said about a lot of plants. Especially this bird of paradise. Huge fat banana type leaves. Shred like mad in the wind. But despite that I’ve planted three more in the garden. By the time I reach 50 ( in my dreams) they will flower.
Theee isn’t much colour at the moment. Well there is but not bright colours. Except for the bird of paradise. The few Clivia. And the start of the freesia. But the foliage is looking good though. The grape leaves turning colour. Well the ones that are still on the vine which they are still this year. They should have all fallen by now ready for pruning. The dodonea is looking great.
Agave Americana
I have also spent time scrubbing up a lot of agave from the garden. First it was the prickly pear. Attacked by the white fly ~ the cochineal fly. Whole swathes of them rotting along the roadside. I have saved two in the garden. It has been a hard slog but worth it. But. There is now something attacking the agave. You don’t know it’s happening until the keel over and die. They attack from below. We had a lot on the communal road but they have all gone. We had a few large ones on the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. Gone. I wandered around the garden scrubbing up more dead ones. This small one will go next. It’s also attacking yucca. Which will be a shame if it gets ours as there are a number of large variegated and non variegated ones. Fingers toes and legs crossed.
We have one of these in London. In a pot. In the top floor bedroom. It makes me chuckle to find plants in the garden in Spain that we have in the UK as house plants. Like the Swiss cheese plant. One of the staples in our house growing up. With a rubber plant which my mother cleaned the leaves with milk. Don’t ask. I have no idea whether it was skimmed full fat or semi skimmed. What I do know is that it wasn’t soya.
Thankfully this prickly cactus is on the bank on the way up to the house. It’s a nightmare if you get to close but it’s redeeming feature is it’s flowers. That’s why it gets a reprise.
I salvaged this Aeonium once again from a falling over in the wind. It’s in a large pot now. Staked. The broken limbs have been planted in the garden. Last years breakages have taken well.
Another house plant we had growing up ~ Tradescantia pallida I think and growing strongly but very brittle in a bed outside the door. Very pretty leaves. Pretty flowers but breaks off every time you pass. There used to be on on our kitchen window.
Foxtail agave
I couldn’t post without putting in a photo of the foxtail agave. This one is in the ground at the rear of the house. I have about half a dozen more that need replanting.
Ian often reminds me of things I’ve said. Like. ‘No more pots ’. As this demonstrates I’m tone deaf. I have had a move around. But I haven’t lost any.
Sometimes things shouldn’t work. These ferns shouldn’t but they are getting bigger and bigger. I can’t repot them again. They have to be moved using a sack truck.
First ignore the irrigation pipe ~ it hasn’t been used this last year. The photograph is of the sea squill ~ Urginea maritima. Planted over three years ago they are all now coming into their own. Green leaves which die down totally. Then later the tall white flower appears. Totally drought tolerant the bulbs are huge. Peter Nyssen supplies me with them. Good old Peter Nyssen.
One bit of colour. A little bit of rain and back comes the flower. Although two bushed have been lost in last years drought.
Finally. The space aliens have reappeared ~ Plectranthus. I’m not sure of the species and it dies have a scented leaf. Spreading slowly and making a bit of ground cover.
That’s it in the Spanish garden for a few weeks. Oh. But I did plant the tulips. The white wall has been planted with palmyra tulips. Last years Armani did well so I hope these do too.
I have planted a few pots with Dutch Dancer ~ black hero and El Nino and a few with a random selection. Which of course I haven’t labelled. Yes. They are late. Yes it’s a risk but at least I didn’t have to defrost the compost of dig three inches of ice off the top.
Photos from Peter Nyssen
Back in London and tulip planting continues. They have almost all been done. Two large pots to finish once the emergency top up from Peter Nyssen arrive. But that’s it for tulip planting. I’m starting to plan early for next years. ( believe that if you will )
This Christmas trip has been a bit of a lights extravaganza. I’ve said it before and being one to repeat myself I’ll say it again. Malaga is a vastly underrated destination. For many reasons. What they do so well and is a huge tourist and resident attraction is Festivals. Semana Santa parades and Christmas being two. The pueblo blanco’s have their Ferias. Their noche del vino. at Christmas the lights are spectacular.
Malaga has a great backdrop for the light show in the Botanical Gardens. La Conceptuon ~ the Jardin Botanivo Historico. A great place to visit during the day to see the extensive planting and the great walks through the gardens. Originally created in 1885 and which remained in private ownership until 1990 when it became municipal property and then opened to the public in /994. The gardens have a vast array of tropical plants collected from around the world over its 23 hectares.
Whilst a great place to walk during the day with cheap admission prices and a small cafe it is magical illuminated at night for this years Christmas show. This is the second year that it has been held in Malaga and this year the info says ‘ the walk is ‘ 2.2 kilometers in length where more than 20 light installations will transport visitors to historic places such as Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem.’
That is once you navigate the parking and the queue to get in. Parking generally for the gardens is small and like everything the Mathieson – Jones household does we aimed to arrive early. Like when we fly we are usually at the airport a week before if Ian has his way. He hates lateness. I hate rushing as I’m a bit of a panicker. What if the traffic is bad. What if we can’t park. Let me fast forward. We parked ok after a bit of a turn around. But the parking wasn’t difficult. The leaving was. Not because of traffic but because of the very kind person who felt it necessary to park so close to the drivers door that not even Twiggy would be able to slide into the drivers seat. Let alone a man of certain age and certainly not on the thinner side. I couldn’t even get a leg through the door. So. With someone waiting to take my space holding up the traffic I had to scramble in from the passengers side. Climb over the gear stick with a dodgy hip and arthritic knee. I managed eventually. And the car waited patiently for my space. Yes. I digress again. But I am no contortionist and I’m not as supple as I once was.
The photo above was taken from the queue to go in which was a bit like a air con in its own right. People panicking because they felt the 19.30 tickets were being let in before the 19.00 despite being told that we were in the right queue. I’d like to repeat some of their conversations. But I won’t. Or my comments to Ian. Neither are appropriate after the event. But the queue was fine. Orderly and no. The 19.30 hasn’t gone in before us. They had been ushered to another queue.
Oh. And we didn’t get to see the parador lit up. The path doesn’t take us up amongst the cactus ~ I suspect a bit dodgy in the dark and health and safety would be an issue. No matter me wants to fall over. A prickly pear. A first for here in Spain. you haven’t seen our electrician work or the man climbing our trees. It takes health and safety to a whole new level.
I have realised that we did miss the parador out in the walk. That was a major fail on my part. Map reading was never my strong point. I have yet to tell Ian. We also missed the camels. There is always next year. .
To be fair the queue moves quickly and tickets checked ~ no question on my old man’s discounted ticket which always disappoints me that they don’t ask for documentary evidence. That’s vanity for you. I never got checked for alcohol purchases either.
The website says ‘ welcome to Stela ~ Embark on the Christmas journey of the Star of the East and the Three Wise Men and let your imagination fly with STELA.
It is a magical journey through visuals and music
A lot of the lighting is very visual and some doesn’t photograph well with the crowds but the colours and the lighting is spectacular. An incredibly clever use of the light and a self guided one way pathway way through the gardens. Despite the numbers it never feels crowded once you get in. It is hugely popular and last year had over 110,000 visitors. I think this year that will be surpassed as last year was the first year and word of mouth has spread.
These crowns are large. And are one of the first spectacular pieces that you encounter. Not the first. But the one that took my breath away.
Particularly spectacular are the crowns. How I would love one of these illuminated on the roundabout that’s not a roundabout to be lit to signify we were in residence. A bit like the flag flying over Buckingham palace. Two things stopping that. The roundabout that’s not a roundabout has no services. ~ electricity and a Waitrose local ~ and it’s in the campo where no new builds are allowed. This technically would fail but thankfully the bulbs are all Led so would get a good energy rating!
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The bamboo forests look amazing during the day but lit up they take on an eerie feel but spectacular.
We three kings. Another high point but a low point in that as usual the idiot comes out in me as I sing the wrong words to the old Christmas carol | we three kings from orient are. One in a bus. And one in a car. One on a scooter blowing his hooter ……… I blame my mother for everything.
A rare sighting. But it’s Christmas and maybe a New Year’s resolution is to have at least one joint selfie a month in 2023. As long as we are in the same place that month! But also to show proof that we are out together and it’s not just Ian walking on his own.
The colours and placing of the lights is clever. Though at points a little dark. Which is fine until you put your glasss on your head to take a photo. Raise your head and they fall down your back. Onto the floor amongst a throng of people. Luckily we weee all standing still. So I was able to scrabble and find them. Without being knocked off my feet which would have been humiliating watching me get back up. And luckily I had packed a small torch.
The taking tree. We could hear noises as we weee approaching the areas where this tree was illuminated. To be fair we weren’t sure what to expect. It sounded from a distance that something was happening in the wood and maybe someone had left a microphone on. There were some strange and funny noises coming from the distance. You know that nursery rhyme. If you go down to the woods today. ….. you are in for a big surprise. Then there was talking and we realised as you do that it was the tree. I know. It so was weird but trust me. I recorded it and it does sound weird until the talking starts. think a bit Shirley valentine. Talking to a wall but the wall talks back. Remember next time you take the Kings advice and talk to your plants. They will sound weird if they reply.
Like the light show at the Cathedral there is a show against the mansion in the grounds. It’s pretty amazing and I think is one of the high lights of the walk. Oh. I’ve forgotten to say that there is music along a the walk which is a atmospheric as you take the journey which transports you to Persia, Babylon or Bethlehem. No Boney M singing rivers of Babylon but I had the look of Ian when I started to sing it. Quietly thankfully. Nino dodgy dance moves. Not on those paths. In the dark.
Not a spectacular photo but a special one for me. In our Spanish garden I have a bed of Clivia. Clivia and I go back decades ( not a dating relationship ) ~ but a plant I bought at a fabulous garden shop in Castle Cary owned by a friend and neighbour of ours at the time. I say she introduced me to a lot of interesting plants and hulks back then ~ an ex Blue Peter gardener and now living on Dartmoor with her rescue animals. Dartmoor ponies. Donkeys. Sheep and turkeys. I digress again. But I bought Clivia as house plants from her. So when we bought the house here and realised we could grow them in the garden I did. Then we came to the Botanical gardens and saw swathes of them planted under the trees I realised I could plant more. I have and will continue to . This photo is more to show the mass of Clivia than the lights. The following photo is an early one flowering at home I the garden. I will be back to see these beauties flower. In the daytime though oh. And for the record Clare the ex neighbour is the creator and seller of the fabulous Donkey Gloves with all profits going to the animals she rescues. Great gloves ~ I’m not biased. They are.
It was worth the 50 min drive down the wiggly road for sure and it’s a great tourist attraction not only for the international tourists here for Christmas but also the local residents who were attending. A lot of family groups old and young. Some even older than me which to be fair at some of the events we have been to lately is rare.
That’s the last of our Christmas outings for 2022. It will be a quiet New year for us as is usual. But not as quiet as 2020 and 2021 for sure. The blog will probably be like current forms of public transport for the next month. Few and far between and not terribly reliable.
Happy New year ~ Feliz año Nuevo and thank you for indulging me with my blogs again in 2022.
This is our 6th Christmas of having la casa Verano. Four of which we have spent here. I always question myself why we come here at Christmas. Then think as I’m sat on the terrace on Christmas Eve in 21* in shorts ( TMI) ~ the weather. But it’s not just the weather. No one is rushing to the shops to buy 10 weeks worth of food even though the shops are only closed for a day. It’s a bit more relaxed. Very family orientated and of course the big day here is 3 Kings. By which time strikes permitting we will be back in Blighty. .
But sat on the terrace I can hear the donkey braying across the valley. Maybe it’s Mary & Joseph arriving. We are off bearing gifts to an early get together but it won’t be gold Frankincense and myrrh. More like wine chocolates and flowers. No. Seriously. There is a donkey. I haven’t been drinking. Useless fact. My first 45rpm was Little Donkey by Nina and Frederick. That’s an admission and an age alert.
We have had 3 nights at the house ~ enough time to warm it up. Do a little shopping. Have coffee with friends. Then it’s time to deivw down the wiggly road again and head to Malaga. It’s only an hour away but we had decided to have an overnight away. A bit of shopping during the day and then the reason for going. The Malaga Christmas lights. Always spectacular and this year they are new. A new theme. New music. Led bulbs and shorter hours.
We had asked about parking at the hotel. Yes there is parking. But there may or may not be space. Come into the historical area. Ring the bell at the barrier and they will let you in. We have to advise the Town hall of your number plate otherwise you will be fined. If we are full you’ll have to go back out to the public car park. Thanks But no thanks. We got fined in Granada for going into the historical part! Once bitten once fined. So we didn’t. We found a car park. Parked and bobs your uncle. But I don’t have an uncle Bob. and in Spain it would make no sense. Tito Pablo maybe. Nice hotel. Soulless checkin. I know hospitality is having a hard time but reception is the face of the hotel. I won’t mention that they thought we were doing a runner when we left. Long story. Great location. Comfy beds. Quiet room but service could have been better.
First stop is always either Casa Aramda near the market or Churreria La Malagueña “the tejeringos of Malaga. Today was Aramda as the other was closing for lunch. Why Aranda. Churros of course. Always with sugar. Never with chocolate for me.
Someone said aren’t churros just churros. Nope. They taste different in different cafes and these are awesome. That’s why we keep coming back. We would have stopped by again in the evening but the queue was massive. I love churros. I loathe queuing.
The waitress told me that this coffee was a coffee Bon Bon. Sweet condensed milk with espresso coffee. Served in a glass so you can see the layers. Then stirred. Yes please I said ~ Ian said you know it’s very sweet. The waitress rolled her eyes as if to say ‘tourist’ but in a friendly way. Did I like it? Hell yes. Very sweet. But I’d have it again. One way of only have one coffee for sure. One is enough.
The main objective of the trip was to see the lights. They looked great during the day hung all along Calle Larios and we knew that they are lit at 6.30 and the music and lights shows are at 7, 8.30 and 10. And last about 7-10 minutes with 7 pieces of music. That’s good for my attention span. And migraines with flashing lights. Looking good during the. Day as well. The lights. Not me.
First a walk through the market. The most amazing produce available. Aisles of fish stalls. Meat. Vegetables, spices and dried fruits. It’s a foodies heaven. Whilst on the outside are great places to perch your bottom and eat.
I don’t know what half of the products are. But they look good. The tomato varieties are immense. The mushrooms look perfect. I could wander around for ages just people watching let alone wanting the food.
Let’s talk Padron peppers. Everyone says aren’t they great. Really lovely chargged small green peppers. Yes they are. But have you had the one in ten that’s spicy hot. Last time I ate here we got to almost the end. Then I thought my mouth was on fire. I had that one in 10. Didn’t help the friend I was with had hysterics laughing at me. This time I almost got to the end of mine. And stopped. I wasn’t going to risk the last few.
So.the lights. What’s the big deal. Oxford street and Regent street have lights. I saw them recently. And Carnaby street. The difference. Is that these are big. With music and attracts huge numbers into Malga just to see the light show. They are designed for Malaga and probably will stay for a few years before being sold off to another city. This years lights is a set of 16 “Angels” in Calle Larios with 32 illuminated pillars. And pretty spectacular they are too. There were 32 pillars. I didn’t count them.
The lights on their own are pretty spectacular but once the music starts you get that feel of Christmas. Set to music. 7 songs including the obligatory Feliz Navidad. The music played at three times during the evening.
There is also a light show on the side of the cathedral. That too is pretty amazing and children ( like me) will especially love the animations. There is music too. Again shows at 7. 8.30 and 10.
Malaga is a vastly underrated destination. There are fabulous museums. Beaches. Restaurants. Markets. One of my favourite museums is the museum of Cristal and glass. A must if you go. We didn’t this time but having been once a year for the last 5 I think I can wait a bit longer to go back.
The cathedral. The Bull ring ( for its architecture) Street art. The architecture. The Picasso museum. The Thyssen museum. The tapas. Flamenco.
I love these cities at night. A walk along the marina. The fabulous overhead cover spanning the length.
I think looking even better at night. in black and white.
The old and the new. Looking up from the marina to the Alcazaber and the covered walkway. I think the buildings are magical lit up at night tho one wonders with the current fuel prices just how long this will last. Spain was one of the first to have office blocks and shop fronts turn off their lights when not in use. They have three different charging periods during a 24hr period.
The view to the cathedral and the AC Marriott hotel alongside. We would have stayed there ~ the hotel not the cathedral ~ had the rate been better. Oh. And of they had availability.
Was it worth a trip down the mountain. It’s always worth it. We will be doing it again next week to see the light show at the botanical gardens which from photos I have seen looks magical.
Let me get something off my chest for starters. Spanish underground car parks. They give me the creeps. Not because they are scary. But because they scare me. What is it will pillars. These car parks weren’t built for todays modern cars. The spaces are too narrow. The pillars. Well they are everywhere. And the turning circles and ramps down. just don’t go there. That’s my whinge. I’ll go round and round looking for a nice space to drive in and out of ~ but not in the car park in Cordoba and I was t even driving in!
Friends were staying in Seville and we arranged to meet up when they visited Cordoba. Never ones to say no to a trip away we arranged to drive to cordoba and stay over for two nights and to meet up for supper. We are so well positioned in Competa. Granada is about 1:5 miles drive. Seville is about 3. Malaga 1 and Cordoba is 2hrs 20. We have done it as a day trip by car. I’ve done it by train from Malaga as a day trip. This time we decided to stay for two nights.
We managed to stay right next to the Mosque Cathedral ~ really central and easy to find. The hotel not the cathedral. That’s well signposted.
The Roman Bridge has been around since 1st. Century and the existing bridge is largely from 8thc. A lot of locations for Game of Thrones weee filmed in Spain and the majestic roman bridge was featured in series 5. Ian told me. He was a fan. I just watched bits when we happened to be in the same room. In the same house in the same country. But I also understand they also used CGI to make it look bigger. I think it looks pretty amazing as it is.
Córdoba Uber. No we didn’t try ~ but there are lots of them.
I have been to Cordoba three times before. This is visit number four to the Mosque cathedral. Almost as many times as I’ve visited The Alhambra in Granada. Both are stunning. But the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba) blows my mind. I think it’s the subtlety of the Mosque; it’s beautiful simplicity with the stunning architecture of its columns Against the bling bling of the cathedral. To have the two in one building is stunning. Spain has 49 UNESCO world Heritage sites and the Mosque Cathedral is one of them.
We visited at night ~ Saturday night its free entrance so why not. It’s a very different experience at night. The lighting is different as is the atmosphere. Oh. And did I say it was free.
I’d have loved to have heard the organ played. In the cathedral and Mosque I’m sure the acoustics would be amazing. Sat under a stunning ceiling. Stunning plasterwork.
The altar was typically grand as you would expect in a Catholic Church. As a vicar friend of mine one replied when I asked which service I should attend at the church where he was officiating ‘ come to the later one. It’s all bells and smells’. That sums me up. Our local vicar once said I was a a festival worshipper . He didn’t mean Glastonbury ~ he meant Christmas and Harvest festival.
The choir seats were a bit spooky. Each arm rest had a figure carved into it. Beautifully carved. All individual. But scary. The seats are carved mainly out of mahogany wood with a row of 30 upper seats and a row of 23 lower seats, all with these carvings.
At the end of the day the brass still needs polishing. I remember my mother getting the brasso out to polish the brass candlesticks and the knocker on the front door. I can smell it still. I remember it made your fingers black.
I would have thought I’d be used to the narrow Spanish streets after five years. But it never ceases to amaze me how narrow they are and how the cars and vans manoeuvre their way through. People have to stand in door ways like sentries. It’s my nightmare having to manoeuvre my way through these streets. Once in Sentil de las Bodegas I threatened to just get out of the car and get the hire company come and collect it. Just where I’d stopped preferably. I was breathing in as we drove through.
The main reason for the trip to Cordoba ~ although Ian and I never need an excuse for a road trip ~ was to meet up with friends who were travelling in Spain. Five us had worked together over the years and had been friends for over 35 years. Ian and Sarah trained together and are birthday twins. Sane day. Same month same year. Four of us were business partners. Four of us are partners. Confused. Don’t be. We know what’s going on and that’s all that counts. The hotel had recommended a restaurant for supper on the Sunday evening. I’m often dubious about hotel recommendations but this was spot on. Great food. Great atmosphere and great conversation. Don’t ask about the plates. It would take an age to explain.
Casa Pepe
Who doesn’t go on a bus tour when travelling in a new city. Ok. Not that new to us but it’s always worth the trip around the city. It helps get your bearings. If we hadn’t been on the bus we wouldn’t have seen this place and hopped off. The Palacio Viana. Is a fabulous Renaissances palace with 12 beautifil and very different patio gardens.
It was was the private residence of the 3rd Marquise of Viana until his death in 1980 and was bought by a Cordoba bank on his death. He died with no heirs.
The wheels on the bus
I love a view through a door in the garden ~ this one draws you in from one patio garden to the next. I love the idea of having the gardens like a series of rooms.
How do they get the plumbago to grow this large. Mine at La Casa is pretty poor. If it’s still alive. I need to check when I’m next there but I’d love for it to cover the garage wall like this.
I can’t imagine this going through the streets of Cordoba but it did. How they manoeuvred around the corners on these small often bumpy streets. I’d be happier being carried around in the smaller one.
There was a lot of wandering. A bit of a bizarre evening where we had booked supper at a restaurant which looked good. We arrived and were shown to a table. A table where you needed a lift to get on the chairs and once you’d managed it you immediately started slipping off. We asked to move. We were considering moving restaurants ~ loud music was coming from the roof top terrace. By loud I mean booming. We were the oldest swingers in town.
We were seated in an alcove. Great table. Tucked away in a corner. The best table for people watching. A huge mirror just in view where the young and trendy had camera phones in hand probably for Instagram or tick toc and were taking their selfies as they passed. Unaware we were watching. I never realised the effort you should put into a pose for these photos. Mine are selfie snaps and not that often. Flicks of the hair. One foot forward. Stand kinda sideways. I might try it. Except my pout would be a gurn and my arthritic hip would give out and I’d ultimately fall over. But the service was excellent. The food really good and the complimentary G& T at the end more than generous in size. The entertainment perfect.
We didn’t do the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos this time. We tried on the Saturday night. Another free entry but the queue for the queue was huge and despite the British love of queuing , 10pm on a Saturday night was not for me. Oh. And it’s closed on a Monday. We have been before and I’m not sure what the gardens would have been like. It’s been a long hot dry summer in Spain. As they used to say on Blue Peter ( ask your parents if you are young) here’s one I made earlier. On a previous visit. And not with sticky backed plastic and a squeezey bottle.
We have another Spanish adventure lined up. Next stop Bilbao. One thing is guaranteed. There will be pictures. Maybe a blog. But definitely pictures.
It’s been a while. Three months I think. But we are back. We were due to travel for Christmas. But we cancelled. Too much of a fuss. Too uncertain. Would we get back. Add to that Fred the geriatric cat having a fit a week before we were due to leave. At 18 he rules. We stayed.
Leaving on a jet plane
But we are here. A full flight. One couple a mother and daughter sat in front of us on the flight who seemed incapable of keeping a mask on. Or of wearing it properly despite the poor flight attendant asking numerous times. I don’t know what’s worse. The kids kicking the back of the seat whilst their parents watch films. To be fair mask bandits in enclosed spaces are the worst.
An easy journey. London City airport was quiet. Except for our full flight. Malaga was a doddle. Easy through passport control ~ passport stamped. Make sure that happens in and out. The Spanish entry form shown and bingo. Ready to pick up the car. The wiggly road hasn’t changed. It’s still wiggly. But what a sigh of relief as we were finally at home. Greeted by our neighbours locking the gates as they left. I assumed they had left us the milk and bread. I mentioned We had stopped to get firelighters.. They had said the day before the house was cold. Baltic was the word. They said nothing except see you for a cuppa later.
Welcome home
I needn’t have worried about the firelighters. ( other than to laugh as I had originally written we had stopped to pick up some firefighters!) They had been in to top up the fire which they had lit in the morning. The house was warm. The shutters all open. the bathroom radiators on. Good neighbours are great. Awesome neighbours even better.
Ferns ferns ferns
I can’t tell you how good it is to be back. Well I can and probably have. The garden is looking ok to be fair. There is some work to do but I have had to adapt to the fact that for the last two years the visits have been infrequent and unpredictable. Some things have survived when I thought they wouldn’t. I planted a plumeria ~ frangipani ~ which I’ve admired for ages. I’m happy to say it’s still alive. Needs a bit more TLC but it’s alive and will flourish now the Warner weather is here.
One of the palms in the pot is dying. I have no idea why but I will plant it in the ground and if it flourishes then it stays. If not it goes. I can’t be too,precious when we aren’t here as often at the moment.
Cactus that’s not a cactus
You’ve got to love a cactus that’s not a cactus. But a euphorbiacandelabrum. Two in pots. Both doing well. This year better than ever.
dodonea
The lovely bronze red of the dodonea ( dodoneaviscosa) which is a great colour at this time of year. A good drought tolerant plant which is needed in this garden. Supposed to be a rapid grower but doesn’t seem to be for me. I need to try some on the really dry bank for some colour interest. It self seeds a bit too. Insignificant flowers but worth growing for the colour.
Foxtail agave
Ignore the bits that need clearing. I love these in the garden. This is the largest and is in a pot on the terrace ~ the gorgeous foxtailagave. Agaveattentuata. Another drought tolerant plant that does well. There is one at the back of the house. Another in a pot placed in the garden. More small ones to be repotted and planted out. They have a fabulous flower but this hasn’t flowered yet. To be honest I will look at other peoples flowers. They flower in their last year. Then die. I want this one to last forever.
New rose arch
Ignore the wall. It needs a coat of paint. There is time for that in later months. For now ignore the view. Ignore the outdoor shower head. You won’t catch me using it. The waters cold. I know Ian hasn’t used it. It took him three years to realise it was there. It’s the new rose arch and the first time I’ve seen it. Last time I saw anything was a rough ~ and I mean dog rough ~ sketch on a piece of paper. Drawn by me. I’m delighted with it ~ I have the rose on order. Though I may change my mind. Or not.
A view we have missed
Three weeks ago our neighbour video messaged and talked about pruning and cutting back the trees and oleander along our boundary. To be fair they are all on their side. A mix of oleander, Olive and some transparente. His gardener had suggested a hard cut. What did I think? I agreed as things grow back so quickly here. Especially Oleander. It has meant we get more light along the terrace. We get a better view toward the Moroccan coast. But there’s no doubt it was a bit of a shock. A little loss of privacy for us both ~ but that’s short term. Oleander grows like a weed here. It was pruned hard three years ago. It grew back. Another thing about good neighbours and these are different to the fire lighting neighbours. Is that there is always a proper discussion about boundary issues to determine what suits both of us.
We have about five pine trees on the bank. When we were here in October we filled a skip full of pine needles from the bank. Trust me. That’s the first and last time I’ll ever do it. That bank is steep. I slipped and slided like a dodgy contestant on dancing on ice. But this week I have to check for the nests of the processionary caterpillars. I haven’t seen any for two years. But to be fair we haven’t been here around nest time. But the last time we found some we had them removed. Nasty little buggers. Avoid them at all costs. They do what the name says. They march in line. In a procession. It’s a spectacle to see. But scary.
Hardenbergia
The Australian wisteria ~ Hardenbergia ~ is growing over the garden gates. To be fair it’s growing to the sides of the gates. It was pruned hard ~ and the bit over the gate cut back a bit too much. It’s started to flower and it’s going to get better. It needs to. The violet carpenter bees love it. Boy. They are big. Maybe this could be an alternative for the rose arch. Or a banksia rose. Or something smelly. Like a honeysuckle. Or. Or. Or.
Strelitzia Reginae
Timing is everything. Something I don’t quite get right. There are at least three flower spikes on the Bird of Paradise. Strelitzia Reginae This is a short visit so I suspect we won’t see them. But hopefully they will still be around when we are back.
Tomorrow is another day and will be spent in the garden. Sweeping. Tidying. Oh and I’d thought I’d finished bulb planting. But there’s a box in the garage. I may be late ~ I had planned for mid December but better late than never and if they flower they flower. There are two chances. Either they do or they don’t but it’s worth the effort. I definetly want to plant the 10 UrgineaMaritima I have from Peter Nyssen. I planted 10 three years ago on the dry bank. They are huge big bulbs and for the first year sis nothing. Then last year our neighbour mentioned that the big onions had leaves. Then later that they had died back. When we arrived in September there were glorious white flower spikes on all 10. So I ordered more. These have to be planted. Along with some pots of tulips and some alliums.
This years Urginea Maritima growth
But at least I won’t have to wear a hat and scarf !
The garden here in Spain has a lot of Osteospermum. All brightly coloured and many which have self seeded. A welcome sight at this time of year.
I was at the garden centre locally this week to pick up some soil and compost to do some re potting and was about to pay for it when I saw a batch of Osteospermum that I hadn’t seen earlier in the week. And which caught my eye.
So As they are so very different to the ones I have in the garden already I just had to have them. Didn’t I?
They are now awaiting planting.
I understand that when they self seed as no doubt they will do they will not seed true to the existing colour. But hey. As long as I keep the originals going I’ll be happy!
So here we are. About to head off to take our Christmas break. I know I know. Life is one long break for me. But some breaks are special. This is two weeks at La Casa Verano Eterno together. No guests. Christmas day with good friends, a few days in Malaga to see the lights and back up the wiggly road to catch up with more Spanish friends.
Oh. I suspect there will be gardening too. There always is for me. Am I complaining? Hell no.
The decision to have a house in Spain is up there with the best we have ever made along with early retirement.
I’m black and blue from pinching myself. We both love it which is a bonus!
So as we plan for 2019 I’ve had a bit of a reflect on this year. I can’t believe where the year has gone but here I am another year older. Wiser. Heavier.
This has been our first full year in Spain. Full as in 12 months and full as in full on. We have had friends visit, some for the second and third time. Those are the ones who have said it would make sense to leave my toiletries in the cupboard – don’t you think? Which suggests and I hope that there will be more. Visits. Not toiletries.
Not so many trips to the Alhambra this year though, Shame. I think we only went 6 times last year. This years destination of choice was Ronda. Ronda is stunning. The bridge takes your breath away. Well. It does if you walk to halfway down and past the ‘do not pass beyond this point. Or you’ll die ‘. Everyone passed the sign. I didn’t die then but nearly did on the walk back up.
There is a great tapas bar recommended by a friend in Somerset. Fantastic tapas. She said ‘oh you have to go visit the toilet’.
Tapas in Ronda
Now when I was in Paris decades ago I visited a new and popular cafe. I went to the loo. I washed my hands. That part was obvious. The loo was resplendent. Opulent. But I still couldn’t figure it out. Until someone came in and used what I had thought was a water feature. Water cascading down the wall. Well. It wasn’t obvious. This loo had nothing on that. Think airplane loo. Only narrower. Smaller. So tight the door scraped your bottom as you slid the door behind you. Room for you. And you alone. No turning round. Oh. And politically correct. Not – No ladies.
I’d recommend the tapas. But find a toilet before you go. Especially if your female. And breathe in if yur male
Katherine from Oz
With Ooh Allo
Mrs Webb
The boy’s
John and Moira
Helen
The Dream team
Newbery & Pullen – what a shocker
There has been Poohgate. Don’t ask. But it’s gone and never to be repeated. I don’t know where we would be without Sergio Fernandes and Victor Ramon.
No not a Spanish flamenco duo but our invaluable Estate agent and plumber who are great friends too. And who got me out of this mess. I wasn’t under there though at times it felt like I was! But I smelt sweeter. Just.
Oh s**t
We did a fantastic road trip through Cordoba, Casares, Toledo, and Salamanca.
We have been in Spain for some major festivals – Semana Santa being pretty spectatcular. a bit spooky but the traditions upheld through the generations and like all Spanish festivals so very family orientated. The daily processions are each and every one different. Different colours. Different traditions. Who doesn’t love a bit of music, marching, costumes and the smell of incense. Oh add tapas paella and vino and it makes for a happy time.
For Noche del Vino – a big event in Cómpeta, although we have missed both the 2017 & 2018 Ferrias.
Semana Santa Salamanca
Palm Sunday Salamanca
The amazing World Heritage site of Casares with the beautifully maintained ancient buildings.
Toledo was fascinating and we stayed in the house once owned by the famous flamenco Guitarist Paco De Luca. Of course I had heard of him and his music, hadn’t I? Um. Sorry no. But I have since downloaded a couple of his albums. I can now be found in the kitchen throwing a few shapes. But only if no one is looking.
Spanish flamenco guitar
Toledo
We saw the magnificent mosque cathedral in Cordoba. The words stunning and awesome are often over used. But sorry. This was awesome and stunning all wrapped up into one. Or two actually as within the building was a cathedral as well. As decorative as the mosque was simple. As bling as the mosque was understated. Symmetrical.
We saw the fabulous patio gardens of Cordoba where they have an annual competition. We were too early for that but we did get a flavour of what they were like. I’m hoping for a visit in 2019 for the patio festival.
Patio Gardens Cordoba
We saw the gardens of the Alcazar which were pretty magnificent. The use of water and the rills as lovely as they are in any of these beautifully maintained gardens. Oh. And entry into the historical sites is so reasonably priced. Suitably so that you don’t mind missing some things as you know that you will be back.
Less to see than at the Alhambra in terms of size and palaces but it’s a definite just for the gardens.
The garden has been a delight. Not so my water bill. But as I once said. I don’t smoke. I don’t drink and I don’t go out with women. So my money goes on my garden. It’s been a huge learning curve for me this Mediterranean garden lark. New plants. New conditions. Watering issues. Tree rats eating the irrigation pipes. Last month making sure I shut the gates around the house. We think we had a wild boar sniffling under the almond trees. I don’t want to wake up and find a boar in the pool. Oh says Ian ‘ there’s often an old bore in there’ thanks Ian. Your humour knows no bounds.
I am yet to see the boar – thou there are signs he/she/they have been visitors to our neighbours too. Somerset was badgers and plenty of water. . Spain is boar and for the most part a distinct lack of it.
The Spanish continues to improve. I’m now allowed to order chicken at the restaurants and not have Ian cringing or the staff laughing at me. Pronunciation is as bad as my SM spelling. I think I’m ordering chicken but a skip of the tongue and I’m ordering a part of the male anatomy. Funny once. Embarrassing thereafter.
In reality we could just stay in the pueblo blanco. It has everything we need. Friends. Restaurants. Cafes. Shopping. Sunshine and for those that follow me on Twitter know i witter about the sunsets. Because they are simply spectacular.
So I head off to spend quality time with Ian, to relax and reflect and plan for 2019. More adventures.
Two nights in Malaga to see the Christmas lights. Malaga is a hidden gem of a place so we can explore as tourists for a few days
Remember Christmas can be stressful. It doesn’t need to be perfect. It doesn’t need to be expensive. There is so much pressure to perform. To have the best food. The best presents. Ian and I gave up giving each other Christmas presents 20 years ago. We tend to see things and think Ian/Andrew would like that and buy it. There and then.
The best gift we can all give is the gift of our time. Time to spend with each other. With friends. That costs nothing and the memories that you make are forever. The memories of the continuing Spanish adventure will continue.
Gardens. Travel. Life. 