Viva España ‘24

In the words of that well known popular song ~

Oh, this year I’m off to sunny Spain Y Viva españa

I’m taking the costa brava plane Y Viva españa

Well we have arrived. But to the Costa del Sol not Brava

A late flight delayed by an hour pushing our arrival in Malaga after midnight. I slept the whole way, as I can sleep anywhere.

What is it with boarding a plane. A mad rush to stuff as much luggage that you can into the overhead locker whilst blocking the aisles so people can’t take their seats. Luckily we can just take a small bag along to be shoved under the seat.

We arrived at casa verano at 2.30am not meeting any vehicles either up or down the mountain.

Altitude

It’s been a while since we have been here and it was obviously dark when we arrived so garden inspection had to wait.

Up the garden path

It’s been a hot summer. And dry but surprisingly the garden has fared well. Thanks to the help we have when we aren’t here. Yes. A few things singed to an inch of their life. Some beyond. The echiums which were magnificent this year are like firewood. Dry as anything. I suspect they won’t return. Maybe that’s why I have bought two this week as replacements.

The old olive tree.

The gardener asked me two years ago how I wanted the olive pruned. For fruit or shape. Me being me and wanting it all replied both. Nope. One of the other you can’t have both. Mind you it was in Spanish so he could have been saying anything. I replied shape. So he has been shaping it each time it has been pruned. To be fair I love it and it’s a great statement piece in the garden. It’s also stopped me moaning about the ripe olives dropping on the terrace and being squashed when we aren’t here and leaving stains. It also means I can’t dry salt the olives. But they are a plenty around here

Curry plant

Who knew you could do a bit of topiary on the curry plant. There are 3 under the olive and on a whim I trimmed them into shape earlier in the year. On a hot day you get a whiff of curry as you walk up the path. Something different to lavender.

Curry anyone ?

Happy to see that the Durante Repens is in flower. I often miss it as in miss it as it flowers when we aren’t here. That happens a lot. But the good thing is I get sent photos to keep me updated.

Durante Repens.

I need to give it a bit of a prune. As I do a lot of things. It’s just remembering when ~ makes a note in book


Urginea maritima

Oh the joy of being in the right place at the right time. When I was here last the leaves of the sea squill had died back. Right back to the bulb and I thought here we go again. I’ve missed the flower. Hmm. Silly boy – I remembered it only flowers after the leaves die back. I’d planted a few a few years back and they took a while to settle. They sulked a bit. No flowers. So it was a joy to see not just one but four in different stages of flower. The flower spikes are tall and elegant coming from a big fat bulb. One of the biggest I have planted ~ I may need more.

We have one large yucca which has been attacked by the same bug that has hit the large Agave – eats it from the root so often the first you know is when they topple over. It’s a I bummer as so many large plant have succumbed.

The variegated ones seem so far to have been spared. But I’m not counting chickens. Yet.

Foxtail Agave

One of my favourite plants in the garden ~ the foxtail agave. Small plants grow at the base of the mother plant and I have planted half a dozen in the bed at the back of the house. Dry as anything they have all taken and are all at various stages of growth. And so low maintainence.

New Strelitzia

Of course I have bought new plants. It would be wrong not to~ wouldn’t it ?

This one is strelitzia Mandela gold. A new one for me. Of course I bought two. We have a number of strelitzia reginae in the garden. But there is always room for more.

I think we missed the loquats. And the figs. Both roasted on the tree. Not the same one obv, but shrivelled.

Next batch

But the next batch of figs are appearing ~ maybe they will be ripe by the next trip. I could do with some good fig and ginger jam.

Chateau Verano

We have grapes. Singular as in one bunch which I will pick over the weekend. And eat. In previous years when we have had a decent harvest I’ve made grape and rosemary jelly. Not this year though. We also have a quince tree. Which has one remaining quince. Roasted on the tree as well so no Quince and Rosemary jelly this year.

I’ve tried to work on a border a day. It never works as I start with great intentions then move on to the next border and back to the one I started yesterday. A bit like a butterfly.

This is mozzie alley. Alongside of the house where I’m guaranteed to get bitten. Part sunny part shady. Full on mozzie territory.

Almond trees

I have wandered around the back of the house in singularly unattractive old yoga kinda leggings. There are still mozzies about who love my iron overloaded blood. I look like Max Wall. If you are too young to know what I’m talking about. Ask your parents.

We have maybe 5 or 6 almond trees. This year I haven’t picked any of the almonds. To be honest it’s a bit of a faff. Pick the drupe ( who knew). Remove the husk to find the nut. Then dry the nut to extract moisture or they go mouldy. All fine. All doable. The biggest issue. Cracking the dried nuts.

Pomegranate

Two months ago friends and neighbours from Somerset were visiting the area when I was here. That’s the first time we have coordinated our travel plans. They drove up the windey road for lunch which I was preparing. I had warned them it would be like having young children in the car with an ear worm. Are we there yet? How much further. The road. Makes me feel sick.

I decided on what I was cooking. Bought the fresh ingredients. All bar a pomegranate which could not be bought locally. I was looked at strangely and told to look on the tree. I’d see flowers. No local pomegranate. So I drove for an hour to the market in Malaga ~ not a huge issue as it’s fabulous and I could go alone and eat churros and have the sweetest cup of coffee ever * cafe bonbom. Coffee. Hot milk and condensed milk. So sweet you only want one.

I bought a huge pomegranate ~ obviously imported. If you asking it was a

Ballymaloe red quinoa tabouleh

with toasted pine nuts. And pomegranate.

Why am I wittering on. I know it’s usual but there is a point. Today I found not one but two pomegranates on two trees in the garden. In 7 years we haven’t had one. It must be a sign.

Particularly great timing for a new moon bearing my mind the lack of harvest. A glorious Harvest Moon.

I haven’t crossed the road to the roundabout that’s not a roundabout. But I will. I’ve briefly looked at the pine trees and they look fine ~ to be honest would I really know?

I’ve been clearing one of the flower beds and I have planted the new strelitzia. Weeded. Moved two clivia ~ in the wrong place ~ brought some agapanthus pots around and have two new shrubby kind of plants to add over the weekend. We have had a weather warning for an overnight storm so it will make planting easier. Hopefully I won’t need the pick axe. I’m not joking.

We had planned a day out to Ronda but I had read in the Spanish paper that Netflix were filming there for the week at various locations in the town. So it was a no go. Too many restrictions and probably too many people.

So in a whim we decided late in the day to drive to Antequera. An hour and a half away.

The rain in Spain

We arrived in sunshine parked the car and started walking to the cultural sights. Where it chucked it down. Not forecast. Not dressed for rain and who wants to get wet and your hair to go curly ~ so we stopped for lunch and watched other people get wet.

Wet wet wet

Like many Spanish towns the walk to the Alcazar is up steps. Many many steps. With my dodgy back and sciatica it takes longer than it should. But there’s always time to stop and look and whip out the camera which is brought along as well as the phone camera.

View from the steps

The narrow streets

Thankfully a one way street ~ don’t mention the time we drove through Setenil de las Bodegas with its narrow streets, with houses emerging from boulders and cave restaurants. At one point as I was driving through whilst breathing in and as it got narrower I was on the point of abandoning the car.

View to the Torcal

A wander up those steps to the alcazabar and Iglesia del Carmen. Ian in charges of the tickets and he asks for one standard and one for an old person. In Spanish ~ and the tickets are handed over. Whilst I’m happy for a discounted ticket I am disappointed I don’t get asked for proof of age.

The usual view

The views of the town town are spectacular from so many viewing points and the added bonus is that Antequera is a hidden gem. No crowds.

High on a hill

Half woman half serpent

This was part of a float in the church. How scary.

Tarasca ~ half serpent. Half lady used in the Corpus Christi procession. You would t want to meet it in the dark though.

We had planned to go to one of Spain’s many Unesco world heritage sights Antequerra Dolmans

but realised it closed at 3pm. That means we have to go back which is t a hardship. It’s well worth a visit.

So it’s been back to the garden. Supper with friends. More gardening. Tomorrow is a visit to the bank with money laundering documentation. Not to enable me to do it. But the standard regular check up on where funds come from. I’m practicing my Spanish but will take Ian with me.

Yes. Spain have actual banks ~ 3 in the pueblo banco but we will be driving down the wiggly road to ours.

One thing for sure before we head back to Somerset. There will be more ice cream.

Let’s get ready to ramble. On ~ & ~ on.

I can’t quite believe we are already two months in to 2024. How did that happen. It’s been a bit of a whirlwind two months. Christmas in London. Finally a new floor laid at the cottage. And endless rain. It never seems stop. That’s in the UK. In Spain it is the polar opposite. In Somerset the ground is so wet that whenever it rains it just runs off. I have had enough now.

In Spain we haven’t had enough. And when we do I cheer. It’s bonkers how different it is. The reservoirs are low. It’s winter and the Costa has water restrictions. It has rained. But it’s few and far between and the forecast there looks like no rain for weeks.

I’ve spent a fair amount of time in Somerset. Work has finished on the new floor and whilst that was happening we has some dry days to get out into the garden. To cut things back. To clear and tidy. The birds had stripped most stuff that could be eaten and it was time to cut the perennials right back. A little earlier than usual I think but with the weather ~ have I mentioned rain – you have to do things when you can. And when we are here. Not there. Or over there.

Jack Frost

There’s nothing like a hard frost to make a dull garden look pretty. Not that we have had many frosts to be fair. Not enough in my opinion. But with Ian’s help the garden has been tidied ready for a spring awakening. Roses pruned ~ some within an inch of their life. Apples and pears pruned. Gooseberries and currants pruned. With all the garden waste ~ well nearly all taken to the dump. Which is under threat of closure with council cut backs. Don’t get me started on the logic of then having to drive 13 miles to the alternatives whilst reading the councils green policy. Not whilst driving. That would be foolish.

Ready for tourist boats.

The grass is green. Still growing but far too wet to cut. The ground is ripe for growing rice this year but at least I can turn the soil over easily unlike in Spain where I need a pick axe to do the same.

Honeysuckle arch
Mahonia

I am not keen on mahonia ~ but throw a bit of frost on the leaves and it makes for a good photograph. It’s planted by the river bank and to be honest has never done very much. Possibly due to my neglect but I have given it a bit of TLC and I will see how it goes. It’s only been there for about 25 years.

Looking down

I’m pretty desperate to get a cut on the grass ~ I’ll keep the bottom of the garden longer and let the daisies stay with a path down the middle. You can’t call it a lawn ~ it’s too embarrassing for a lawn. We have talked about reseeding it. Take out the lumps and bumps but a perfect lawn wouldn’t look right. It’s not a formal garden. It’s a higgledy piggly cottage garden with random planting. Pretty. But random.

Looking up the garden

It’s a shame the constant rain doesn’t drown the bindweed and the ground elder. It’s a constant battle and one I’ll never completely win. I’m a bit more relaxed about it when the plants hide it but watching it start to poke through is a constant irritant ~ and weeding does my back in.

Things are starting to show their leaves. The phlox is through , the alliums are romping away. Especially summer drummer which is one of the tallest. The pruned roses are showing their leaves. There are buds on the fruit trees.

Crocus

This is one of a few small clumps of crocus that come year after year. I can’t even remember when and if I planted them. But I’ve obviously moved soil around as they have appeared in a few different places. Always the first thing or one of the first to flower. Bulbs and corms aren’t great in the back garden. The ground is very wet. Very frosted and if they do flower in year 1 they rarely get past that.

Primrose

The primroses are starting to flower. I remember as a child walking the rusty line ~ an old disused railway line and picking primroses. I’ve planted a few more in the last two years and I’m hoping they will spread.

Daffs

The only clump of daffodils in the back garden which come back year after year and are planted under the really ancient apple tree. But. They opened and the water from the river flattened them. I lied. I’ve just looked out of the bathroom window and have spied a lone daffodil in another part of the garden.

Lungwort

These are looking sparse around the garden this year. Usually the river bank is covered but the only thing that it’s been covered in over recent months is the river. Not all the time. But I think they have been washed away. Sad as they are great early pollinators. Pulmonaria ~ common lungwort

Pitcombe tulip pots

I always am a little anxious with the tulip pots. Usually right up until flowering. Have I planted enough ~ probably yes as I stuff the pots with as many as I can. Have I planted too many ~ as in have I stuffed them too full. Will they grow ~ have I planted them upside down. At times when there’s no sign of them I think they will flower in OZ.

But they are through and now I’m worrying about ‘are they growing too fast’ and have I been bonkers with the colours. Only time will tell.

Pitcombe tulip pots

This is the difference between a few weeks growth. So far so good.

I was late in planting the tulip pots and window boxes in London but they too are starting to show through. Obviously not as advanced but they are on their way.

London tulip pots

I had a spell of buying old chimney pots to use in the back garden in London. It gave some height to the planting. There are now two planted with tulips and three with rosemary by the front door. Recycle reuse. Replant.

Snowdrops

I am not a galanthophile ~ we have only one clump in the garden. Which reappears under the old apple tree every year. Yet never bulk up. Every year I think I’ll buy some in the green. But don’t.

The one thing that bulks are the Spanish bluebells. Another must do. Replace with British. But the list is endless. Maybe next year.

It’s a waiting game now. Waiting for things to slowly appear. To flower. To dry up. Or in Spain. To have a soaking.

The rain in Spain.

It’s not been all rain and gardens. There has been some walking. . A visit to the Newt ~ a walk cake and coffee. Once it dries up it’s a nice walk from the cottage along the green lanes but at the moment there is not a chance.

The bridge

I love this bridge ~ for its shape more than anything else. Not withstanding there’s coffee and cake at the end of it. Or the start depending on which way you approach it.

Being watched

We ventured further making use of our NT membership. a short drive on a cold and frosty morning to Stourhead.

Stourhead

So there is time now to do some garden planning. The tulips are in and there is nothing I more I can do. Except watch for the poo bags being lobbed into the pots. Yes. It happens.

I’ve dug over what may be a dahlia bed. So spurred on by my friend Siobhan I’ve been on the look out for new dahlia for 2024. Last year I loved the honka’s. So I’ve ordered more from my go to supplier peternyssen

Ordered
And these.

I’m hoping that some of lasts years will have survived. They won’t have died off from frost but they may have rotted. Another waiting game.

More reds and oranges to be bought form Toddsbotanics

The canna last year were excellent. A little late to the party but flowered until the first frosts. Then in a blink of an eye the foliage was mush. I didn’t lift but mulched heavily so again it’s fingers and toes crossed. But whispers I’ve been on the World Wide Web again looking for some new tall ones.

So we head into March. Today’s is a leap year. I wouldn’t mind leaping to sunnier drier days to be honest.

Didn’t we have a lovely time ~ Jerez & Cadiz

Well we are back in Spain again. For the second time in 6 weeks after an absence of 52. To be fair it seems like we haven’t been away. Except for the wearing of masks in shops and when entering restaurants and if you are unable to social distance.

I love this time of year in Spain. The temperature has dropped and is comfortable. The mosquitos are retreating and the coast is clear. Clear of hordes of beach goers which means quiet walks ( not romantic ) along the beach. But for the final time in 2021 Ian has booked a trip within a trip for 4 nights whilst we are here. He has said again that we are not spending the whole time here in the garden. The last trip and with some help we have got the garden back on track so this trip it will be easier. Little did he know that there are hundreds of bulbs to plant ~ but that will be for December.

First stop after a 3.5 hour drive in the dark. Was Jerez. The joy of being in Competa is that there are so many places of interest within decent driving distance. Malaga. Granada. Ronda. Córdoba. Seville. After four and a half years those have been done. Some more than once. Some more than that. In our first year I had visited Granada countless times primarily to go to the Alhambra. Ian has a list of places that we should see and some for next year will need more planning as they are further afield.

I digress. The early start was for a reason. We had booked our stay in Jerez and then tried to book tickets to see the Horses at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art but the only day there was a show was the day we arrived and the tickets had to be collected by 11am. So it was a 6am start. There were two benefits to the early start. One was that the roads were relatively quiet and two it meant we arrived to collect the tickets before the arrival of the coaches. Which in turn for an hour we virtually had the place to ourselves.

We arrived to the training of some horses and young riders outside in various parts of the grounds and to a cafe full of young riders taking their break. I’d like to say I understand what they were talking about but their excitement was like a runaway train. Not only was there individual training there were carriage driving training going on as well.

The main event takes place in the Picadero ( indoor arena) which when at full capacity seats 1,600 spectators with amazing views of the arena. We had excellent front row seats mid way along the arena with great views. I mainly took videos of the horses which can be found on my Instagram page @pitcombe123

There is so much more to the School. In the grounds there is also the Palace. The Palacio Recreo de las Cardenas built in the 19th century and designed by Charles Garner who also designed the Paris Opera House and the Monte Carlo Casino. We were the only visitors on the ground floor which is the only part open ~ benefit of being early birds.

Ian had booked a small Airbnb for four nights in a great location with easy access on foot to the sights and tapas bars. Whilst the apartment was compact it had an amazing terrace which was an added bonus together with some interesting pots.

Fab Airbnb terrace

Jerez is an interesting place. The architecture varied and with a lot of buildings in various stages of being reformed. It sounds a strange thing to say but the city is very Spanish. But it was. Very. There weren’t hoards of tourists. ( like us) or coach tours. It was very easy to wander around although easy to get lost in the small narrow Andalucian streets though great for shade. As well as being famous for its Horses Jerez is also known for its Sherry. I’ll admit now. I’m not a Sherry lover. I was listening to a radio programme recently where the Spanish were berating how bad the UK is at drinking Sherry. We can all relate to our parents or grandparents or even us opening a bottle of Sherry and be handed a glass from the same bottle a year or so later. This horrifies the Spanish who say it should be treated like a bottle of wine and not left to be drunk once a year at Christmas. I thought growing up that the only Sherry was the sweet Sherry dragged out of the cupboard at Christmas. Harvey’s Bristol Cream if my memory serves me well. We didn’t do a Sherry tour this time but have been told that it’s a must. Just to educate us as to what delights there are out there. Not just a sweet Sherry at Christmas.

Sherry anyone?

Day two was a walk through the narrow streets to the Alcazar a former moorish Alcazar probably built in 11c. Not as big or grand as Seville Granada or Córdoba but interesting. Particuarly as once again when we arrived we were the only ones walking around. Gorgeous large olive trees planted in the Grounds but very little colour in the gardens.

Alcazar Jerez
The baths and the Mosque
Within the grounds of the Alcazar Jerez

The Mosque is the only one remaining of the eighteen once present in the city. I love the star shaped skylights in the ceiling of the bath house which lets in amazing light. You can see some of the original workings of the heating system too which probably worked better than ours at home.

Within the palace is there is the Municipal Pharmacy from the 19th century, beautifully carved shelves and potions and lotions on them all. Along with original glass bottles which I’d happily have taken home.

Lotions and potions

We spent the rest of the day wandering the narrow streets. Stopping for lunch. Afternoon tea and cakes. Getting lost.

Streets of Jerez.

As well as Jerez we had decided to spend a day in Cadiz. Instead of driving we had booked the train which was only a 45 min journey with a 20:min walk from the Airbnb. As usual we decided to get there early and spend the whole day wandering with no agenda. . Another day of leaving in the dark and arriving in the dark. But the streets were quiet and had been cleaned already as we walked to the station.

Jerez ~ walk to the station.

Travel but train is so easy isn’t it. As long as the train goes straight from A to B with no changes. Fast efficient and clean. 45 minutes later we had arrived in Cadiz. As we left the station we were presented with the sight of the cruise liner Queen Elizabeth. Appears Queens are like buses. Three arrive at once. Seeing these cruise liners close up cements my thinking that I don’t want to go on one. Friends love it. But I think for me it’s too big and I have a fear of not being able to get away. Getting away from people. The puerto de Cadiz had a few liners in dock. All huge ships.

Queen Elizabeth

First impressions of Cadiz were good. Final impressions at the end of the day was it was great. It is so good to walk and find your bearings before the crowds descend but to be fair it was never so busy that it was uncomfortable.

One other benefit was arriving to sunrise over the city and the port.

Early morning Cadiz

A walk first along the Campo del Sur to the Castle of San Sebastian at the end of La Caletta. A lovely early morning walk with sea air and the sun rising. What more could you want? To be honest a strong coffee. I had been up for hours.

The castle and watchtower is on a small island connected to the mainland by the walkway but the interior of the castle is currently closed. Both have an interesting and long history.

Castle of San Sebastián

There’s always time for a coffee stop before you climb the tower. We had passed through the square in front of the cathedral when we arrived just as things were just opening up so having done a perusal of the area we were back to people watch before we ventured into the cathedral. People watch we did. Well I did as I’m more nosey than Ian. It was fascinating as there were at least three cruise ships in at the port and I was trying to guess the nationalities of the people. Some were easier than others. The Spanglish gave some away.

Cadiz Cathedral

After breakfast and the enduring wait for the bill we managed to get into the cathedral but not before listening to the tour guide from one of the cruise ships giving his talk to his captive audience. The cathedral wasn’t the most interesting or beautiful for me. I guess I keep comparing the glitz with the last one we visited in Granada where everything that glittered was gold. This one had a remarkable piece of silver instead. Imagine having to polish that once a week.

Silver

I can usually guess how much I liked a place by the number of photographs I took. There weren’t many. The cathedral was beautiful. But nothing stood out for me. Except being told off by Ian for making spooky noises in the crypt and threatening to find a creaky door noise on my phone. Childish. Me. Yes.

I swiftly walked past the entrance to the church Tower but Ian was determined. “You’ll get great views from the top” ‘I know’ I replied “but you know me and stairs. I may get to the top then panic about coming down’ We have a difficult relationship. Not me and Him. Steps and me. As in Steps. Not 5.6.7.8 steps. After 30 years he just ignores me. He says it’s easier. For us both. But the idea of photo opportunities won me over. What won me over more was that there were no steps. No stairs. Just a very long. circular walk to the top. And obviously back down again.

That’s unusual

I usually panic on the way down but I got another telling off. I started signing ‘hi how hi ho hi ho it’s off to woke we go” Especially as we turned the corner and met a couple coming up. They, unlike me , we’re not amused.

Hi ho. Hi ho.

It’s amazing the places you can find. Hidden in a narrow side street is the Oratoria de La Santa Cueva. Leading figures of 18th century Cadiz used the building to withdraw and to undertake spiritual penance. They belonged to the mysterious Spiritual Withdrawal Congregation. It’s a building of two halves, down into the basement you find the gloomy and austere chapel. Dark. Minimalistic. A bit creepy to be honest. Dedicated to the Passion.

In total contrast the upper floor of the High Sacramemt Chapel is opulent and was deliberately designed in contrast to the penitential chapel in the basement. In addition to its opulence it holds a secret stash of Goya paintings in the arches above the alcoves. With beautiful light coming in from the roof Another interesting piece of information ~ Joseph Haydn wrote his work “The Seven Words Last of Our Saviour on the Cross” for this chapel,

The austere Chapel
Opulence and Goya

Sightseeing is exhausting and one needs to feed one’s soul. And stomach. Sadly the tapas bar recommended by a friend was full but the area was full of fabulous little tapas bars. A great late lunch we were ready for more walking.

Lunch

Would I recommend Cadiz. Definetly. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t go to the parks. We didn’t go up the tower. But. We will be back.

Maybe if I win the lottery by private yacht like this one moored in the port. It looked a bit space age to me but definitely stood out.

Lottery win needed.

I suspect my mode of travel will be more subdued.

Reality.

There will be no more trips within a trip for the rest of the year. There will be a Malaga trip. Both to the Christmas lights which are fabulous and this year to a new event at the Botanical gardens. That reminds me to check out the arrangements!